Zeque YS DZ 1.60/1.70 powered

This model does NOT have any real choice as to which engine mount to use. Here are photos and weights of my favorite mounts that I have used with success. Pictured are what I call the gold standard- Hyde 140 - 160 "A" mount, the value priced and lighter Hyde 140 - 160 "C" mount and the appropriate choice for the Zeque- the YS mount which is the lightest.

Just as an aside, Merle Hyde, other than sharing Chip with the world, has provided some very important innovations to precision aerobatics including the first soft engine mount. Merle and Chip also were the most prepared and coached team for many years. Chip tells me that they would literally fly thousands of pattern flights a year...hmmmm, my kids (Chip is 4 and Tom is 2) could participate in competitive hockey and I'll be busy 44 weeks a year or... I will continue to expose them to toy airplanes and...


Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Performance

Hey Rusty I started when I was 7. It's something that they will be able to do for a lifetime and share the experience with their Dad. Hockey is cool but the years that they can do it are very limited. I know that being involved in RC from a young age really influenced me greatly and allowed me to have a truly special experience with my father. We really learned to work as a team and it transcended any relationship I have ever seen to this day between a father and son . The kids will be learning many valuable skills and you will be the recipient of something you and they will cherish forever. Then again Hockey is pretty cool. Tough decision either way support the heck out of them. Mike

BOTH!!!
I started both at about the same age 9 or 10 (back in the mid '60s) and still do both. However, I don't have any aches and pains after a good day of flying. I can't say the same after I play hockey
-Will

Rusty,
I too am putting together a Focus II and am just about to the point of installing the elevator pushrod.
How did you layout the foam braces you show in the pix?
The bulkheads they will attach to are very narrow framed and the hole for the pushrod will have to be just about dead on to prevent binding up.
Thanks!
JLK

Zeque YS DZ 1.60/1.70 build

Regarding pushrod installation, my answer applies to all installations not only the Focus II.

Jon,

In order to measure, EASILY align and install my elevator pushrod solution, I cut (2) holes in the bottom of the fuselage. Each 1 1/2" hole was cut with a forstener bit after a slightly larger hole was cut through the covering. The pushrod was installed, measurements of the "center" of each hole at each bulkhead (2) in the case of the Focus II, and then the support material was cut and fit. The pieces were not installed UNTIL the stab and elevators were installed BUT the pushrod was put in the fuselage with the formers "loose" prior to the stab being installed. I also lubricate the rear pushrod capture with lithium grease.

To this point, the elevator is pushed into the rear capture point, the supports are free and the servo tray is floating in the fuselage as well. Connect the rear of the pushrod and adjust the clevis' to center the servo end of the pushrod in the fuselage. Move the servo tray and the various supports until the pushrod moves very freely. In my case, this took a minute because the foam support bulkheads were accurately cut and fit well. Tack glue the servo tray end if satisfied. I used Zap a Dap a Goo to attach my foam (stiff slippery stuff) formers.

The final product is very light, moves perfectly smoothly and optimizes equal elevator movement with little to no slop or "rotational" deviation- perfect for a Focus or built up construction. My skills and patience required me to cut access holes which were filled in with a couple circles of covering. Whatever method you chose, you must execute it for it to work properly, so chose a method consistent with your skills.

Ideally, the kit would have had the pushrod made and installed...or I should have just paid Troy (Mr. DEPS) Newman to do the DEPS before it was shipped. As I have previously stated, I will strain my tiny brain reviewing the options.


Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Performance

Hi Rusty ...
i PM you!

Rusty:

Things have been quiet, hope this means you have been busy getting the Zeque put together. One simple question; with the YS mount do you still use a nose ring?

Mike

i dont know what Rusty will do but i know some scandinavians use the Hyde Ara and the original Ys mount in the front as nose ring , this works wery well ...see also some japs convert almost to this.

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babel...fkoujityuu.htm

dont know if this link works ....

I think that's the Akiba design, the mount attachs onto the three bolts on the back of the YS engine. My friend is using one on his Good Shot and Proline, and he told me its a very good mount.

Adrian

thats correct this is not the ys mount just to show how its don.

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YS soft mount

The YS soft mount is mounted to the model with (4) bolts into (2) brackets. One aluminum bracket is friction fit on the front of the engine. A role of brown tape is included with the mount to wrap the area just behind the thrust washer. A rear bracket mounts to the motor with (3) screws and also connects the tiny shock absorber.

The Zeque has specific holes drilled and tapped for the front mount. The rear mount is to be drilled with blind nuts installed after the specific location is identified. The mount allows the engine to rotate exactly about the centerline of the crankshaft.

Here is another photo showing the included directions.


Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Performance

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Progress: Slooooowww

Progress is slow due to my requirement to complete a couple of projects that I will be taking to Phoenix in less than a month. I have just put the final touches on a Focus II ARF which is YS DZ 1.60 powered and an Oxai Beryll powered by a Hacker C50 14XL Comp motor and speed controller. Both models will be featured reviews in FLY RC Magazine comparing and contrasting the two models.

The Zeque project has moved forward and additional photos and discussion will be posted on Monday evening. A number of decisions have been made:

The belly pan and engine compart will be sprayed with PPG catalyzed urethane clear to further protect the beautiful finish.

I am leaning towards the DEPS elevator pushrod...Troy...do you want to do it?

I do want to share my new really cool aluminum cases tricked out by BadBrad Graphics. The larger case on the left (Home Depot $19.95) will hold the batteries, charger, power supply and support stuff for my electric airplane. BadBrad made vinyl spray masks and used aerosol enamel to paint the electric support case logos and the "Team Futaba" on the 12Z case.


Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Performance

Dear Rusty
I´m not an expert in assembling , but I own a Kyosho GTrick 90 ARF kit and the elevator pushrod installation is also driving me crazy. It seems that your pushrod system is easier to install than the Mr Troy`s system . The CF rod ( 3/16" ) showed in the pic is that ( hollowed ) sold by Central Hobbies? The Y ends you use are metal ( how long ) and straight to the elevator clevis ? It shouldn´t be any bind ?
Could I use CF rods ( the ones from DEPS ) for the Y ends?
I´m planning to install MK products all over the plane.

I think I´ll make the holes in the botton of the fuse to easy the job ( for the foam supports ) . The problem is : The GTrick come with japanese colors and the blue color in the botton I will not find anymore - Monokote , Ultracote or any other doesn´t have a matching color.

I`ll install a YS 110 with Hatori cooling header and pipe. The Ishioka pipe mount is the best (and beautiful ) . But the fiber pipe tunnel that came with the kit is too narrow for the two plastic supports, I guess. may be with some work on it.

Ricardo

Get'er done for Phoenix, or bring the pieces and we'll have a group build.

I got the shop[ to finish it up. Rusty #2 buys the beer! The good news is we can't screw it up since all the alignment stuff is already done. So bring lots of beer.

Brett gets a Coke.

Troy

ROFLMAO

Translation is required...

Rusty #2 is me, Rusty Dose

Rusty #1 is Rusty Fried.


Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Performance

Make sure you put copious amounts of liquor in Brett's Coke though.

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Wing

The first photo shows the weight of the wing WITHOUT any components installed. The wing is balsa sheeted foam (890 grams, the foam has very large beads so I assume it was specifically chosen) with some kind of light cloth and then the paint. I am sure Troy Newman could provide the specifics. The finish is pretty durable, I dropped the completed servo arm from 18" on to the wing, while taking one of the photos and it left an ever so small teeny tiny dent...I could hardly see it.

This is the first one piece F3A airplane since my "Saphoon" in 1995. So you never heard of the Saphoon? My pals in Omaha are laughing...the Saphoon started as a Wolfgang Matt Saphire, then I stretched the fuse 2", with a Typhoon canopy (not trimmed enough), huge vertical fin and rudder powered by the venerable O.S. Hanno Special with a 13 1/2 x 9 APC prop and double bug- Magnum 2. I think virtually everyone thought it was very ugly but it flew very well and like anything you fly 500 times, it became my "friend".

The Zeque wing is not perfect and that way you remember it IS hand built. Things are very symetrical such as ailerons, hinge gaps, straight and true trailing edge and it feels very light for its' size. The hinges (6 per aileron) are the pin type which are glued prior to painting. The ailerons are made for the Futaba special 9150 or 9154 digital aileron servos. I chose the 9154, it is fast, not light at 1.9 oz BUT it has a very strong gear train which stays tight...

Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Performance

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More Wing

Here are photos of the parts and stuff to provide hours and hours of trouble free operation. Yes, one does not need to use these very specialized parts. I have chosen them because I KNOW they will remain just as slop-free and "tight" after 250 flights as the first flight. Remember, my goal is to put myself in the best place to reach my potential. My potential is not enhanced with ailerons that can move up and down 1/4 inch with the servo and linkage slop!

The aileron horn is an MK unit which places the pivot point of the horn right on the hinge line. Try to always get your geometry correct in all your linkage set-ups before playing with the radio. I show a medium horn and a large horn. The unit allows one to change horns with a little set screw. I originally intended to use the large horns but as you will see in a few frames...

Edited 1/30/07 @ 2:55CST. I have substituted NMP 2.5mm dual axis ends (DARE25 $5.98, Central Hobbies) for the aileron servos.

Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Performance

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More Wing

What kind of servo extensions do you use?

I had an experience several years ago which went like this...I had a very new Guerin built Focus with less than 10 flights on it and was practicing in gale force winds the friday before a contest which was 500 miles from home. (The farther away you drive the more tolerant you are about stuff that does not seem quite right?) I thought it was going into "hold" but only on down lines or when I was inverted...odd and bad places...landed, maybe the little metal doo dah was rubbing on the thingy or something...The next day, I aborted my second flight flight because of this "hold" and proceeded to land. About 3 feet off of the ground, right at show center, it went hard left aileron? Well, if I was not flying F3A, I would have said, wow, that guy can't land. I sent the stuff to Tony at Radio South including RX, servos, TX...it turned out to be the $1.99 SILVER plated aileron extension!!! Please spend the money and buy the best extensions you can afford.

The photos show my method of keeping extensions connected- 1/2a control line string. Servos are mounted in the factory openings with Central Hobbies allen head servo screws.

Rusty Dose
Team Futaba
Team YS Performance

Oh, I just noticed something in your photo. You purchased the MK 2.5 pink BB adjusters, and the central titanium 2.5 mm rod ends. The pink BB adjusters are too large for 2.5 mm threads. Please do yourself a huge favor, and trade those in for 2.0 mm white BB adjusters. You could crash otherwise. They may appear to fit ok, but they will slip under any load. I had a very wild trim flight using these. The BB horn clevis should fit 2.5 mm ok.

Nice plane and accessories BTW.

David

Hi David,

I've got a question about the 2.5 mm BB adjusters.
Is the comment you made due to the material or due to the size of the hole?
I'd like to use these 2,5 mm adjusters in combination with 3 mm. threads, would that be a good combination?
I realy hope so because I've already unpacked them, so I won't be able to trade them in.
I'll be using them on a HighSociety F3a. (siegel/lorenz)

Ben

The size of the hole is too large for the 2.5 mm threads. The material is just fine. The hole size on some of these is a slip fit, and you know immediately that it it too large. But on others, it seems that the fit is snug, but it is not and will slip once a load is applied.

3mm threads and the 2.5 mm BB adjusters is a good match. I think 4-40 threads is also a snug fit.