I did a search and did not find one for this kit. Anyone know of a link?

I just started my build and would like to compare. I know it's a simple kit to build but if there isn't a thread already archived somewhere I may start one.

http://gavush.tripod.com/radiocontrol/4star.html

Not exactly a build thread, but I found this helpful when I built mine recently. It is a pretty populat kit, so you should be able to find tons of information.

I had a lot of fun building mine, and they do go together really easily. Good luck and post pictures when you're done!!!

Thanks for the link!

This is a build thread on the 60 sized version. I imagine it is identical to the 40? Well, even if not it may give you some ideas:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_38...tm.htm#3886552

There are similarities, thanks.

I did read your post as well before building my 40, and it was a big help. There are a number of things that go into a 60 that a 40 does not have (the wings are more complicated), but this is an excellent thread. Your attention to detail, both in your plane and your thread, are great. Did you ever finish the plane?

I am reading it too, and I agree it is helpful.


Edited April 24, 2007:
I'm editing this post of the thread to add a "Lessons Learned" diary so anyone else following along will see my mistakes and hopefully will prevent them from making the same ones.

Rule 1. Read the entire installation manual and review every detail of the plans before you do anything else!
Rule 2. Make sure what you are doing is EXACTLY as pictured on the plans. Unless you are confident about deviating from the plans, DON'T.
Rule 3. Measure twice, cut once.

Lessons learned:
Do not only inventory the parts, but measure them too. I found that one elevator was shorter than the other and had to cut the long one and the horizontal stabilizer. It was not worth the time to get a replacement since it was only 1/8" short. If I had discovered this before I was ready to assemble the empennage, I would have got a replacement before I started it.

Step 17b. Assembling the aileron torque rods.
I had to sand the torque rods blocks in order to get the wing to fit into the fuselage. Maybe I should have sanded the backs of them, or perhaps I needed to sand more off of the trailing edge of the wings. So, fit the wing before you sand anything off of these blocks.
(April 30, 2007) I just realized that I placed the blocks on backwards! The slot faces the wing, not the tail. Geez... See rule 2!

Step 20. Fueslage bottom sheeting.
On the top of page 8 there is a note that says:
NOTE: COMPLETE THE STEPS IN "MOUNTING THE WING TO THE FUSELAGE" ON PAGES 10-11 BEFORE PROCEEDING.
Even though it is in uppercase, I did not notice this before I did step 20. DOH! See Rule 1.

Step 29a. Mounting the landing gear.
I somehow mounted the gear off center. I should have drilled one hole, bolted the gear down, drilled another hole, bolted the gear down, then drilled the last hole. Something slipped during the drilling.

After inventorying the parts I labeled the W-1 ribs because they came loose. I then started on the right wing. I pinned the spars to the plan and dry fitted the ribs. Next I glued the ribs and added the TE sheet to the top of the ribs. I used the dihedral jig for the inboard W-1 rib.

Before gluing in the shear webs I braced the outer rib to keep it straight and prevent it from bowing outwards.

I dry fitted the shear webs and sanded as needed. I then dry fitted the top main spar to make sure it would seat flush into the slots, then glued them all together. The top and bottom TE sheeting and spar are also shown glued in place.

It's imperative that the shear webbing is glued on all four sides for maximum strength.
Next I started sheeting the top.

Glued and clamped on the wingtip.

I learned that when you iron on covering it may bubble if there is air trapped in the underlying compartment so I drilled small holes in the ribs to allow air to escape. My covering skills are still evolving so I need all the help I can get

Bottom of the wing is sheeted. I clamped the curved sheet to make sure it would stay.
Popsicle sticks, tongue depressors, etc. are useful for helping clamp. I sometimes place wax paper under them to make sure they don't stick.

You are doing a fantastic job! Your photos and details are great. What program do you use, to type the info on the pictures and get those perfect straight arrows?

That is my downfall. I hate covering. I still have not finished mine because of it.

Thanks Kmot. I use Photoshop for some things like enhancing the contrast and brightness but use a program called SnagIt for the shadowing, lettering, and arrows. SnagIt a real good program, but not as robust as Photoshop, nor as expensive, but I use it for a lot of things. I can capture pictures and video on the screen, etc. Download a free trial here: http://www.techsmith.com/download/trials.asp and the cost is about $40.

I have seen the covering vidoes here on RCU and they help a lot, but I guess it's just practice that will help me improve. Don't let that scare you so finish what you are building and send us pictures!

Step 11 says to carve the trailing edge block to match the curve of the sheeting and suggested doing it with an X-Acto #26 whittling blade. I didn't have an X-Acto #26 whittling blade so I used a razor plane, then sanded to shape.

The next step is to cut out a space for the aileron servo.
This plane comes with a one piece full length aileron but I will be modifying it for flaps because I want to experiment with taking off and landing with flaps. Does anyone know how much length should be used? Is there a calculation to figure this or is it just a percentage of the overall length of the surface? For example, for a control surface that is the width of the wing, should 70% be for flaps and 30% for aileron, etc.?

That's all for the right wing, on to the left...

Might I make a suggestion for a simple modification. The 4 * is known as a real floater. When you install your ailerons, add an extra pair of hinges one bay in from the tips. In the future, if you ever decided to clip the wings to improve roll, you'll have a set of hinges already in place to support the aileron tips.

Scott

rwright142: Thanks for the link to SnagIt. I tried it, and I love it!

I have seen the covering videos by MinnFlyer. I have the covering video by Monokote. As you can see from my thread, I have covered a lot of the plane so far. I am just uncomfortable with it. So when I stopped last July, I moved on to other projects and sort of lost my momentum, and eventually my motivation. That is why I am watching your build. You will inspire me to finish mine.

saramos,
Thanks for that tip. I'll move the outer hinge just in case.

Kmot,
You did a beautiful job on the Fourstar 60 so don't stop now!


Here are a couple of layouts for the ailerons and flaps with the hinge points. Comments please?

I glued the wing panels together with 30 minute epoxy then clamped them together.

The dihedral should be 2 degrees per wing panel.
To check this angle, the manual says to lay one wing flat and check the distance from the table to the bottom of the raised wing. This should be approximately 2 inches.

I glued the piece labeled "BP" with 30 minute epoxy.
Torque rod blocks and plywood wing hold-down plates also glued in place with 30 minute epoxy.

Any remaining epoxy was applied to the seam between the wings.

I noticed the plans showed a brace for the aileron servo but found no reference to it in the manual. I will have to add that later.

The servo brace, as you call it, looks to simply be hardwood blocks to screw down your servo in place. As for flaps, seems everything I have ever read about the Four Star series of planes is that they are all floaters, and do not need flaps. But if you want to install them, I like the idea of about equal splits, as in your first photo.

I think you are right about the hardwood blocks, I'm just a little puzzled as to why there were no instructions for adding them.

I agree that it is a floater and it doesn't need flaps, I just want the experience of building them and practice using the radio to engage them.

I'm trying to take 'baby steps' learning to fly a warbird so I want the procedures to be close. I know this in no way will fly like a warbird but it will give me some basic low-wing taildragger experience to grow upon.

Here is the plywood wing hold-down plates, aileron torque rods, and the torque rod blocks glued in place. The part "BP" will be trimmed later.

Subscribing, I have one in line for my building board. I had the ARF version but traded it to someone who needed it more than I did. I already have a 4*120 with an OS FS120 (pre surpass) and it's a real ball to fly.

The modifications I intend are minor, probably slightly larger ailerons and larger elevator and rudder surfaces. I'll probably power it with an old OS FS-61 (I like old engines) or a Magnum 61 RFS (lighter than the OS but probably not as powerful).

Forgot to actually hit the subscribe button...

I built 2, fist one was my first low-winger and was shortly after they came out.

One weak point with SIG planes with alum. landing gear is their mounting block. I can't tell you how many times the landing gear mounting block popped out less than soft landings. Use fiberglass reinforcement, and wood dowels (or toothpicks) through the block in to the tri stock.