WildHare 28% Edge540T V2 Build and Mod
#26
ORIGINAL: tankertoad
I love the Red Bull Edge. Check out this guy's site. For a buck fifty, you can get a turn-key graphics set up all the way down to the little sponser logos.
www.die-hardgraphics.com
I love the Red Bull Edge. Check out this guy's site. For a buck fifty, you can get a turn-key graphics set up all the way down to the little sponser logos.

www.die-hardgraphics.com
I have been checking out quite a few graphics sites, and most have red bull stuff, but I had never heard of die-hard graphics. That is a sweet package he has...turn key - everything you need.
[sm=thumbup.gif]
Keith
#27
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From: Kewanee,
IL
I too love the RedBull schemes. I built a funfly plane and hand cut my RedBull scheme out of Monocote... PITA... but it came out pretty good for a funfly plane. 
Ref: DieHard Graphics... I live just a few miles from these guys and I've seen their work. They do good work and have been doing vinyl for a long time. I'd recommend them.

Ref: DieHard Graphics... I live just a few miles from these guys and I've seen their work. They do good work and have been doing vinyl for a long time. I'd recommend them.
#28
Hey Keith,
Hadn't seen a post here for awhile so I thought I would say HI and see how your doing on your WH Edge???????
I have been working on a few things, but ended up having to order a few parts before I can go to much further.
I decided to get all the engine electronics mounted, including the kill switch. (42% products) Made for a nice installation...even has an LED by the Ing. switch to let you know when the Ing. is still on.
I'm setting the throtle & rudder servo, RX and batt pack in locations so I can get an idea of the CG location and if I'm going to have to move things around. Also to see if I need to order some other batt. or servo ext.'s......
After that i'll be taking off the engine...etc and sealing the engine box with urathane and remount everything with clamps and blue locktite.
I'll probably start on the hinges Sat. and hopefully I have my Slimline fuel dot by then to get satrtde on the plumbing. Should go fairly quick.
A few questions: Can you tell me if it makes a difference in what direction the servos are mounted. I see them mounted in different ways. I would always think you would want the spindal and control arm closer to the control surface??
Are you using the rods supplied in the hardware kit or did you find you could use H9 Titaium rods? Just wondering.....I'm thinking I'll stick with teh WH rods that Tom supplied.....but those H9 turnbuckles are nice.....
Well let me know how your coming on your project??????
Mike
Hadn't seen a post here for awhile so I thought I would say HI and see how your doing on your WH Edge???????
I have been working on a few things, but ended up having to order a few parts before I can go to much further.
I decided to get all the engine electronics mounted, including the kill switch. (42% products) Made for a nice installation...even has an LED by the Ing. switch to let you know when the Ing. is still on.
I'm setting the throtle & rudder servo, RX and batt pack in locations so I can get an idea of the CG location and if I'm going to have to move things around. Also to see if I need to order some other batt. or servo ext.'s......

After that i'll be taking off the engine...etc and sealing the engine box with urathane and remount everything with clamps and blue locktite.
I'll probably start on the hinges Sat. and hopefully I have my Slimline fuel dot by then to get satrtde on the plumbing. Should go fairly quick.
A few questions: Can you tell me if it makes a difference in what direction the servos are mounted. I see them mounted in different ways. I would always think you would want the spindal and control arm closer to the control surface??
Are you using the rods supplied in the hardware kit or did you find you could use H9 Titaium rods? Just wondering.....I'm thinking I'll stick with teh WH rods that Tom supplied.....but those H9 turnbuckles are nice.....

Well let me know how your coming on your project??????
Mike
#29
Hi Mike,
You are making good progress!!!
I have been spending a lot of time measuring / deciding on / and designing the graphics for the plane. I wanted to coordinate the graphics possibilities with a shop before I started the covering.......just in case I ended up shelving the theme altogether, and doing something else. The good news is, I think my concept is giong to work, so I will order the graphics and start on the covering this weekend.
I haven't even ordered my servos or other electronics yet, but I am sure that before February is done, I will be sending another bucket of money to someone for that stuff.
I haven't looked at the servo mounting situation yet, but my thoughts on that are: (IMO)
1. If the push rods are not pre-made length, then make them as short as possible unless geometry or structure clearance suggests that the servo be mounted with the shaft in the position further away from the control surface.
2. If the push rods are pre made length, then you're kind of stuck with mounting the servo in the position that supports the length of rod that is available.
I hope that someone with more experience than me will chime in on the servo orientation
???????
I haven't checked the available length of the hangar 9 ti rods, but they would be nice, that's for sure. Realistically though, the method that Tom suggests will MORE than handle the loads of this aircraft.
I did get the optional hardware kit with the pushrod material, but I haven't decided, like you, on whether to go with the Ti rods, or stick with what is on hand.
Keep up the good progress - I will be rolling again soon!
Keith
You are making good progress!!!
I have been spending a lot of time measuring / deciding on / and designing the graphics for the plane. I wanted to coordinate the graphics possibilities with a shop before I started the covering.......just in case I ended up shelving the theme altogether, and doing something else. The good news is, I think my concept is giong to work, so I will order the graphics and start on the covering this weekend.
I haven't even ordered my servos or other electronics yet, but I am sure that before February is done, I will be sending another bucket of money to someone for that stuff.
I haven't looked at the servo mounting situation yet, but my thoughts on that are: (IMO)
1. If the push rods are not pre-made length, then make them as short as possible unless geometry or structure clearance suggests that the servo be mounted with the shaft in the position further away from the control surface.
2. If the push rods are pre made length, then you're kind of stuck with mounting the servo in the position that supports the length of rod that is available.
I hope that someone with more experience than me will chime in on the servo orientation
???????
I haven't checked the available length of the hangar 9 ti rods, but they would be nice, that's for sure. Realistically though, the method that Tom suggests will MORE than handle the loads of this aircraft.
I did get the optional hardware kit with the pushrod material, but I haven't decided, like you, on whether to go with the Ti rods, or stick with what is on hand.
Keep up the good progress - I will be rolling again soon!
Keith
#30
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From: Suwanee,
GA
ORIGINAL: ottrod
Hi Mike,
You are making good progress!!!
1. If the push rods are not pre-made length, then make them as short as possible unless geometry or structure clearance suggests that the servo be mounted with the shaft in the position further away from the control surface.
2. If the push rods are pre made length, then you're kind of stuck with mounting the servo in the position that supports the length of rod that is available.
I hope that someone with more experience than me will chime in on the servo orientation
???????
Keith
Hi Mike,
You are making good progress!!!
1. If the push rods are not pre-made length, then make them as short as possible unless geometry or structure clearance suggests that the servo be mounted with the shaft in the position further away from the control surface.
2. If the push rods are pre made length, then you're kind of stuck with mounting the servo in the position that supports the length of rod that is available.
I hope that someone with more experience than me will chime in on the servo orientation
???????
Keith
You are right,,it really doesnt matter how the servos are mounted but I think it's always better to have the shortest linkage from the servos to the surfaces of the plane,,at least on this plane on the Elevators since the Links will be at arround 5'' or so I have installed my elevator servos with the output shaft of the Servo towards the rear of the plane,,on the ailerons I have them the other way to make the link a bit longer since the distance it's prety short anyways I installed the servo with the output shaft towards the LE of the wing, on the pull-pull for the rudder I did it the same as the elevator servos, output shapt towards the rear of the plane
#31
im getting the new WH edge 540 29% i know i need two extensions for the ailerons? how long?
and i know i need two loner ones for the elevators, how long?
i want to order some of this stuff befor i order the edge... i ordered the engine btw...DL-50
thnaks in adavance
and i know i need two loner ones for the elevators, how long?
i want to order some of this stuff befor i order the edge... i ordered the engine btw...DL-50
thnaks in adavance
#32
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
TX
ORIGINAL: MetallicaJunkie
im getting the new WH edge 540 29% i know i need two extensions for the ailerons? how long?
and i know i need two loner ones for the elevators, how long?
i want to order some of this stuff befor i order the edge... i ordered the engine btw...DL-50
thnaks in adavance
im getting the new WH edge 540 29% i know i need two extensions for the ailerons? how long?
and i know i need two loner ones for the elevators, how long?
i want to order some of this stuff befor i order the edge... i ordered the engine btw...DL-50
thnaks in adavance
Use 24" on the elevators, and I suggest 12" for te ailerons. You will then also want to have two more 12" extensions that are permanently installed in the plane to the 2 aileron channels on the receiver, this gives you a handy place to plug in when you put the plane together.
TF
#33
Well, I know I've made too much of a science project out of the covering scheme and graphics, but I guess that can be part of the fun.....(and also most of the PITA as well!).
Here's what I have done so far:
First, I took some pictures of the bare airframe. Then, i used my photo editing software to add some dimensions to the images as reference.
Then, I took the pictures of the real Red Bull Edge, and edited them with my scheme ideas. I also calculated the proportions of the Red Bull graphics.
Then, I got on the phone with Brad at Bad Brad Graphics and discussed my project. I sent him my images and dimensions to work with, as well as some other non-Red Bull graphics that I designed or modified from other people's designs.
Here's what I have done so far:
First, I took some pictures of the bare airframe. Then, i used my photo editing software to add some dimensions to the images as reference.
Then, I took the pictures of the real Red Bull Edge, and edited them with my scheme ideas. I also calculated the proportions of the Red Bull graphics.
Then, I got on the phone with Brad at Bad Brad Graphics and discussed my project. I sent him my images and dimensions to work with, as well as some other non-Red Bull graphics that I designed or modified from other people's designs.
#34
Brad did a great job, and my "pile of graphics" showed up in short order.
I then started to cut them into pieces and lay them on the airframe to make sure the sizes I specified would actually work on the plane. Then, I did a rough layout of the Purple / Black pattern on the wing and horizontal stab.
**Note: some of my pics actually show the graphics that are going on the bottom of the plane - just layed on top to verify the size and fit.
Then, I started to cover the bottom of the fuselage...........It's been a long time since I covered an entire aircraft...and never anything this big! I am going to have to deal with a steep learning curve before I get the large areas covered without messing anything up!
Lot of great tips and tricks on the forums though, so I am sure I will succeed eventually.....just may take a few more rolls of Ultracoat than originally planned!
I then started to cut them into pieces and lay them on the airframe to make sure the sizes I specified would actually work on the plane. Then, I did a rough layout of the Purple / Black pattern on the wing and horizontal stab.
**Note: some of my pics actually show the graphics that are going on the bottom of the plane - just layed on top to verify the size and fit.
Then, I started to cover the bottom of the fuselage...........It's been a long time since I covered an entire aircraft...and never anything this big! I am going to have to deal with a steep learning curve before I get the large areas covered without messing anything up!
Lot of great tips and tricks on the forums though, so I am sure I will succeed eventually.....just may take a few more rolls of Ultracoat than originally planned!
#35

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From: Elizabethtown, KY
If anyone is interested, I have a Microsoft Publisher file of the Wild Hare Edge (V1, but I think the general/overall demsnsions are the same) that I made up to get my graphics done, and proof of concept, etc... It is 1:1 scale, but you can zoom out to see what you are doing.
If you want it, let me know and I'll e-mail it to you.
Jon
If you want it, let me know and I'll e-mail it to you.
Jon
#36
Hey Keith,
Been working slowly but surely on the Edge.
I completed the Fuel Tank installation using a Slimline Fueler w/ 2 line system. Used the 1/8" barbs on the fuel tubing inside and out worked out pretty nicely. I also used a piece of tubing (1 1/2" long) inside the pick up line to keep the line from folding back on itself. Had to pick up some more fuel line.....[
] not enough in the kit to make the loop. Secured the vent line with small pieces of velcro to the tank straps and vented out the bottom using a formost fitting. Tie wrapped off all the connections and done.
I made a servo plate out of 3/16 ply and epoxied it in making sure not to obscure the location of the wing bolt. Used a JR ST125 digital metal gear with a Air Wild servo arm. (Pretty Purple).....LOL The push rod is a Ny-Rod 505 secured by a Ny-Rod clamp inside the fuse and secured to the engine with a 2-56 snap ball link. Not sure about those snap on ball links, kind of afraid it might pop off...but we'll see durnig the ground run ups. Thinking of going to the 2-56 bolt through ball link...what do think? Everything seems to be nice and tight on the linkage with no slop.
Installed a couple of Parsons servo lead connectors on each side of the fuse under the servo lead hole from the wing with Med CA, makes a nice install so your not hunting around for the ALIE leads.
Completed the rudder servo install with an SWB 3" offset arm, 4-40 ball links and Air Wild HD cable connectors. Those are really nice to work with. Although this was my first pull pull setup....and I screwed up the first set of cables.....Live and learn I guess. When I was on Air Wilds site and looking at there connectors I saw they were using Berkley's nylon coated stainless steel wire, .032 rated at 60lb test. for pull pull cables. So I picked up some of that from Gander Mt. for $2.75 for 30'. So I had plenty to experiment with.....
Worked like a charm...tied the knot...a little CA on the knot....looked good to go. ????????? I used the pin and cotter keys with the Dubro rudder setup (including the bolt stand offs) instead of the bolt and lock nut from WH. Just seemd like it let the clevis and link swing a little better than with the bolt.
The ELEV horns are installed, also used the Dubo "A" nut as a backing just felt more comfortable with that. Connected up everything with Hanger 9 titanium 5" links. They make for a nice clean installation and give you nice room for adjustments....good investment.
Well all I need to do is seal the engine box and firewall area, install an A123 batt system and install the RX antenna. BTW with all the servo leads and rudder cables in the fuse do you install the RX Ant. inside the fuse or outside? Folks say if installing the Ant. inside to try and keep it a good distance away from the servo leads and cables. Not sure which way to go.....would like to keep it inside.
Your progress is looking great.....Looks like those graphics should really look nice on your edge. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Keep tthe pictures coming.
Talk to later
Mike
Been working slowly but surely on the Edge.
I completed the Fuel Tank installation using a Slimline Fueler w/ 2 line system. Used the 1/8" barbs on the fuel tubing inside and out worked out pretty nicely. I also used a piece of tubing (1 1/2" long) inside the pick up line to keep the line from folding back on itself. Had to pick up some more fuel line.....[
] not enough in the kit to make the loop. Secured the vent line with small pieces of velcro to the tank straps and vented out the bottom using a formost fitting. Tie wrapped off all the connections and done.I made a servo plate out of 3/16 ply and epoxied it in making sure not to obscure the location of the wing bolt. Used a JR ST125 digital metal gear with a Air Wild servo arm. (Pretty Purple).....LOL The push rod is a Ny-Rod 505 secured by a Ny-Rod clamp inside the fuse and secured to the engine with a 2-56 snap ball link. Not sure about those snap on ball links, kind of afraid it might pop off...but we'll see durnig the ground run ups. Thinking of going to the 2-56 bolt through ball link...what do think? Everything seems to be nice and tight on the linkage with no slop.
Installed a couple of Parsons servo lead connectors on each side of the fuse under the servo lead hole from the wing with Med CA, makes a nice install so your not hunting around for the ALIE leads.
Completed the rudder servo install with an SWB 3" offset arm, 4-40 ball links and Air Wild HD cable connectors. Those are really nice to work with. Although this was my first pull pull setup....and I screwed up the first set of cables.....Live and learn I guess. When I was on Air Wilds site and looking at there connectors I saw they were using Berkley's nylon coated stainless steel wire, .032 rated at 60lb test. for pull pull cables. So I picked up some of that from Gander Mt. for $2.75 for 30'. So I had plenty to experiment with.....
Worked like a charm...tied the knot...a little CA on the knot....looked good to go. ????????? I used the pin and cotter keys with the Dubro rudder setup (including the bolt stand offs) instead of the bolt and lock nut from WH. Just seemd like it let the clevis and link swing a little better than with the bolt. The ELEV horns are installed, also used the Dubo "A" nut as a backing just felt more comfortable with that. Connected up everything with Hanger 9 titanium 5" links. They make for a nice clean installation and give you nice room for adjustments....good investment.
Well all I need to do is seal the engine box and firewall area, install an A123 batt system and install the RX antenna. BTW with all the servo leads and rudder cables in the fuse do you install the RX Ant. inside the fuse or outside? Folks say if installing the Ant. inside to try and keep it a good distance away from the servo leads and cables. Not sure which way to go.....would like to keep it inside.
Your progress is looking great.....Looks like those graphics should really look nice on your edge. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Keep tthe pictures coming.
Talk to later
Mike
#37
Looks great! You'll be flying in no time.
Have you done the servo install in the wings yet? if so, did you use H9 pushrods there as well? I'm using Spektrum, so no antenna to worry about, but your method is sound. If routed inside, try to secure the antenna to a corner of the fuselage opposite of where you have the elevator servo wires routed. Should be ok,,,just do a good range check as always!
Keith
Have you done the servo install in the wings yet? if so, did you use H9 pushrods there as well? I'm using Spektrum, so no antenna to worry about, but your method is sound. If routed inside, try to secure the antenna to a corner of the fuselage opposite of where you have the elevator servo wires routed. Should be ok,,,just do a good range check as always!
Keith
#38
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From: Wichita, KS
ORIGINAL: Snaer810
Well all I need to do is seal the engine box and firewall area, install an A123 batt system and install the RX antenna. BTW with all the servo leads and rudder cables in the fuse do you install the RX Ant. inside the fuse or outside? Folks say if installing the Ant. inside to try and keep it a good distance away from the servo leads and cables. Not sure which way to go.....would like to keep it inside.
Well all I need to do is seal the engine box and firewall area, install an A123 batt system and install the RX antenna. BTW with all the servo leads and rudder cables in the fuse do you install the RX Ant. inside the fuse or outside? Folks say if installing the Ant. inside to try and keep it a good distance away from the servo leads and cables. Not sure which way to go.....would like to keep it inside.
As stated above, if you run the antenna in the fuselage do a good range check. Many people run the antenna inside with no problems.
#40
There's no doubt about it.....I can't paint for @&%# !!!
It's a good thing I have a good friend who can! I got my cowl and wheel pants back this evening....the paint is better than what is on my car! He did a great job!
I decided not to use the carbon wheel pants on this plane - these are the factory W/H pants. I think I will save the carbon ones for another project.
It's a good thing I have a good friend who can! I got my cowl and wheel pants back this evening....the paint is better than what is on my car! He did a great job!
I decided not to use the carbon wheel pants on this plane - these are the factory W/H pants. I think I will save the carbon ones for another project.
#42
ORIGINAL: Snaer810
Hey Keith,
Those are Perrrrttttty!!!!.............LOL Do you know the type of paint he used. Might want to do mine some day.
Thanks,
Mike
Hey Keith,
Those are Perrrrttttty!!!!.............LOL Do you know the type of paint he used. Might want to do mine some day.
Thanks,
Mike
I hope I keep them in one piece .....at least for a while!
#43
Minor distraction to the Edge progress.........picked up my trailer today! I didn't want to get a bigger vehicle just for the planes, but I have outgrown the inside of the Mazda. I think this is going to work out just fine! 4'x8' (10' at the "V" nose).
#45
ORIGINAL: Snaer810
Hey Keith,
Nice looking trailer!!!.......
What make is that and what did that set you back?
Mike
Hey Keith,
Nice looking trailer!!!.......
What make is that and what did that set you back?Mike
There are cheaper options out there, but after seeing this trailer in person, and comparing it to the others, I'm glad I went this route. VERY pleased so far! I would like to take it out on the highway for a test trip, but out weather isn't cooperating with me.
#46
Back to the Edge!!
I used a template cut from construction paper to mock up the scheme. I'm not good enough to just measure and lay out directly on the covering.
Yes, I put the fuselage on the coffee table after I messed up the bottom section that I had covered, and started on the stabs and wings - they're easier!!!
I used a template cut from construction paper to mock up the scheme. I'm not good enough to just measure and lay out directly on the covering.
Yes, I put the fuselage on the coffee table after I messed up the bottom section that I had covered, and started on the stabs and wings - they're easier!!!
#47
Taking some advise from Bad Brad, I ditched the thought of using a gazillion xacto blades and went to Harbor Freight and bought a 100 count box of single edge razor blades for under $5.00. Since blades last only a few cuts when doing this kind of stuff, this makes a lot more sense.
BTW, I got a 1/4 inch thick, 24x48 piece of glass to work off of....works much better than wood or other materials.
Keith
BTW, I got a 1/4 inch thick, 24x48 piece of glass to work off of....works much better than wood or other materials.
Keith
#48
On to the wings......well - "wing". Only got one done.
More template stuff to determine how to layout and cut the Ultracoat.
Keith
More template stuff to determine how to layout and cut the Ultracoat.
Keith
#49
Finished up the wing I was working on, then took a few minutes to put the wing and stabs on the fuse......just to make me feel good.
Making good progress now that I found out what works for me, and what doesn't (for me, I need to only use the heat gun to remove covering - only use the iron for application....but that's just me).
Keith
Making good progress now that I found out what works for me, and what doesn't (for me, I need to only use the heat gun to remove covering - only use the iron for application....but that's just me).
Keith


