Hey everybody... Just got back into the hobby after a 13 year break. Finising up a guillows 16" p-40 Warhawk and a 20" Piper Super Cub freeflight for building practice. I am covering these with a mix of tissue and coverlite microlite for practice on covering. I have never used plastic covering. All of my previous RC's were BLAHH!!!! ARF's ..... Anyway I just got my House of Balsa .20 43" P-51 Mustang from Tower and am looking forward to the build. The power plant will be an OS .25la hopefully installed horizantally. Using a Tower Hobbies 4 channel trans from ebay for 25 bucks, a GWS 6 channel naro reciever, 2 sg 90 servos for the alirons, and undecied about the other three servos. Any suggestions for this build would be greatly appreciated. Sorry won't go eletric. In 95 the eletric guys were kinda weird and I guess that sorta stuck with me... LOL HaHaHa... Just kidding... but really no eletric conversion for me... Thanks for any replies and will supply pics if interested..

2-56 rods for the aileron control rod run out to u-control bell cranks then A straight shot to the aileron control horns. Then get A 5 year old with small hands to install your radio gear, it gets kinda tight in there.

Yeah it's alot smaller in person I've read somewhere to use a single standard servo for the ailrons but was not sure. What do you think of the sg 90's I've read different opinions, good and bad.

Couple of thoughts for you:

Head on over to the 1/2a forum and root around for building ideas and such - a 43" WS P-51 will seem huge by comparison!

Unless you're planning to setup flaperons you may only need a single servo for ailerons if you use a torque rod setup. I've done this in several HOB kits.

The specs on the SG90s look good, but I've never used them. Hitec HS-81, HS-82 or HS-85s would also work well.

EG

Just for the ease of set up you can use the HT 81s in each wing half to get rid of the torque rod set up. That always seems to be the stumbling block for most new builders to this little plane. Out of the servos you listed it's the only one I have used so I haven't got A clue about the others without looking them up. Getting an engine in that little cowl is another thrill if you want it to look good. I just rebuilt one for A friend this year and made some changes for him, really for myself, I like easy.

Gents,

would you happen to have a plan for the HOB 43" Stang? If not, even a good quality photo of them would be much apprecaited.

Thanks in advance, David.

I have the plan though I'll have to see about making a copy... Not real sure how to do it yet.... I'll see what I can do...

Teddie,

Much appreciated. I don't need a print quality scan, I was just hoping to give them a look to see how the plane is designed. A few quick photos might do nicely.

Thanks again and happy new year!

David.

Here you go David I hope these will do...
Happy New Year....

Just what I was looking for.

Many thanks, David.

WEll construction should start next week... I ordered a building board from tower hobbies and it will be here on the 12th.... I have decided on and received a Hitec mini 6s receiver... a used O.S. .25 F engine.... servos are still a question... standard servos will fit.... but not sure about using micro... everything is slowly coming together... can't wait to get started... pics coming soon...

Excellent news Ted!

I've considered building one ever since I (almost) finished the equivalent size HOB T-6 Texan. After a little further research, I looked into the electric HOB version of the .Stang as I though it best to stick to my T-6 setup which is electric.

BTW, who's design is it (the original not the electric)? HOB had the habit of putting the designers name on the edge of the plans. The HOB T-6 was, I believe, Rich Uravitch's first design to be kitted commercially!

Incidentally, in the March 2009 MAN, Rich can be seen with his latest model - an electric twin Sky King! Very nice design. RU is old school and designed simple to build and clever scale models. And he still does!

Now it's just a matter of deciding between the Stang and the King!

I'm looking forward to your build!

David.

P.S. A couple of snaps of my T-6 in trimmings loosely representing the Canadian Harvard Aircraft Association - Dive Rescue Team (CHAA-DRT) efforts.

BTW, I also had a break from the hobby until about a year ago - a little shorter than yours though.

Welcome back!

David.

David...
Very nice T-6... I only hope my stang comes out so clean.... I have never kit built an RC plane only two BARFS... A Tiger Trainer back in 1994 and another plane that I can't remember the name but it was a basic high wing semi sym airfoil that flew like a dream.. 5 to 15 feet off the deck inverted all day long... and a handful of Guillows free flight's... So all my work will be novice level... I will be taking lots of pics.. cause well, I'll need lots of advice... not many builders in my area, if any at all... Everything is very low budget... and seat of the board building... But from the looks of your T-6... I have a nice model just waiting to come alive...


The model that I am building is the .10-.20 43" wingspan.. the bottom right of the plan says it was designed by Rich Uravitich... The plans look pretty straight forward.. however the instruction manual is very basic and a bit vague... but I'm sure with all the people on this forum that all my questions will be answered...


I will have to check out that march issue of MAN and see what else this guy has come up with... honestly I never even noticed the designer name... "It's the little things" ...

Heres some quick pics...

Thanks for your interest..
Tommie....

Tommie,

we're here to help however we can. I'm sure you'll enjoy the build.

It's not a bad plane to build as a first kit. As mentioned Rich's designs are clean and simple. The parts count is quite minimal. The place where you should spend most of your time (at least I do), is thinking about what you are going to do where and when before doing it - a build plan of sorts. Also, when it comes to assembly and finish take all the time necessary. This makes the difference between a pile of plastic covered wood and a semi-scale Mustang. Of course things have to be straight and true as well but most of us know that.

Ultimately we always do the best we can. I often find myself saying after I'm finished "why did I do that particular thing like that? It would have been better this way"... but that's what it's all about - an excuse to build the next model.

Happy building!

David.

Alright everybody first question.... the horizontal stab is solid balsa... ahould I drill holes to lighten it up or will this cause structal weakness??? Same for the vertical????

All comments welcome...

Tommie,

don't do it yet. My T-6 came in so light that I decided not to. Build the airframe and you can then weigh the components and see how you're doing. You'll want your airframe to come in weighing < 50% of the AUW. Ideally about 35-40% of it. I think my T-6 was at around 38% of the lower end of the weight range. Mine's electric so I wanted it light.

I'm actually in the midst of a small pattern plane build and will be taking the same decisions when the airframe is complete. Surfaces like that are easy to alter post build. Where you might want to take a decision pre-build is on the fuse (sides, top, etc.) On a HOB FW-190, I drilled the smithereens out of the fuse (electric too). The design included a 1/64" ply doubler which made the fuse sides nice and solid allowing them to be drilled out without loosing too much structural strength.

If you're interested in my build thread, you can follow it here:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8196707/tm.htm

There may be something there that's useful. I learn immensely from following other threads. BTW, the Deception will be powered by a ST G20/23 (a .23 sized engine). It really should have a .15 or .18...

David.

David

Thanks for the advice... I never thought of drilling the fuse... the mustang also comes with the plywood doubler... getting very excited to start building, board arrives tuesday...

By the way your deception is looking awesome.. I only hope my work turns out half as clean...

Thanks again
Tommie

Tommie,

glad you enjoyed the Deception thread. I'm about to modify the design to add a 1/32 balsa doubler in the wing saddle area. One wonders what 1/32 balsa doublers do beside add apparently useless weight... The interesting thing is that they create a glue wall of sorts which stiffens the sides without leaving a mess for the fuse interior surface. Ideally one would add a paper thin section of carbon fibre mat in the sandwich but that is getting fancy. In any case, one is then able to remove the added weight, and then some, by drilling out the fuse and leave a stronger structure behind than the original. At least that's the concept.

All the HOB designs with the 1/64 ply doubler can also be modified this way. It's much easier to keep the weight reduction symmetrical about the sides if you mark one side with the holes to be drilled out and then Dremel the holes through the two sides with them taped together. The only thing to watch out for with this technique is to make sure you don't create holes where you may need wood for things like servo rails and/or might want to hold the plane (e.g., in the nose and tail area). One also wants to be careful in the tail boom to insure it's not substantially weakened. A nice in flight snap can rip your tail off!

In short though, it's essentially creating a modern lite ply like interlocking structure on an old design concept. The first photo shows the locations of the radio gear in the drilled out FW-190. Servo tape, rather than rails, is used to attach micro servos flat to the fuse top. In the T-6 I installed the radio gear as shown in the other couple of shots (the plane actually uses a Spektrum Rx now rather than the JR FM shown. FG pushrods are used).

Sorry about the dissertation, I kind of find this sort of stuff fun!

BTW, I would recommend mixing up the construction sequence and deviating from what might be shown in the manual. The HOB manuals, while good, don't necessarily always tell you to build what's needed next. I'd recommend building in the following sequence:
[ul][*] Empennage[*] Wing[*] Fuse
[/ul]
I also wouldn't finish joining the wing until your fuse is built (you can tape the wing together if needed) so you can adjust either if necessary so they mate well.

Looking forward to your build!

David.

Tommie,

you might find these servos interesting:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUDS3&P=7

I'd put one each of these on the ailerons and one each on rudder/elevator. You can use the servos you have for throttle or use those in the wings and a Hitec HS-55 on throttle. The HS-65HB's would also work nicely all around.

On the .23 powered Deception I'll be using 5 HS-65HB's (ailerons/main gear/elevator/rudder) and 2 HS-55's (throttle/nose gear). I may go with the digital version of the 65's on control surfaces (4 x HS-5065MG) if I can find them at a decent price.

Just some ideas...

David.

IT'S HERE YEAhhhhhhh.... My building board arrived today...

So first off... on the Elevator, should I bevel the LE before or after I insert the connecting rod??? I will be using CA hinges..

Any suggestions...

David,
I like the servos you showed me... the problem is in my budget... I will probeley get an hs55 for the throttle, use the tp 90's for the ailerons I have a towerhobbies standard I received for free that I will use for the elevator... and I may get a futaba s3114 for the rudder... what is your opinion of these servos...

Pics of the board.. It is the great planes 36 x 16 x 3/4..
Pic of the firewall and engine mount.. did that last knight could not wait....
pic of the elevater...

the green blanket is my building buddies....

see thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8344139/tm.htm

Tommie,

nice board! The servos you have in mind should be fine. Futaba and JR tend to be more expensive. You could certainly use standard Tower servos on the empennage and an HS-55 for throttle.

Re the elevator, first make the holes at the right distance, then notch the LE of the inboard sections to countersink the rod. Roughen the rod up, stuff some epoxy in the holes and slots and cover the rod (except the exposed middle portion. The assemble on the plans insuring that the spacing is correct and put some weight on the assembly to make sure it is absolutely flat.

Once done, you can then hinge the elevator to the stab. Again, absolute centerline by drawing two lines on elevator LE and stab TE. A simple slot with a #11 will do for the CA hinges. You can later drill a small 1/16" hole in the center to allow the CA to flow when the time comes. Once everything is hinged, flat and symmetrical you can then bevel the elevator LE to 45 degress about the centerline. Stab LE and elevator TE are then rounded and everything sanded smooth. Done!

Rudder/Fin - same process. Ailerons much the same.

David.

David.
thank you very much.. your help is very appreciated...

For the absolute center I am using a hinge marking tool... and I have measured and marked the location of the rod and hinges...

I don't have any epoxy yet... tommorow or wednesday I will be picking up 5 min and 30 min from Hoby Lobby craft store... I did not expect to get the board today.. but excitment is making me check and recheck all possiable next moves... I'll go ahead and notch LE for the rod and make my hinge joints... I'm already checking all the wing instructions and getting the ribs sanded and ready...

Once againg thank you for your help...

Tommie

Next question... Should I mount the aileron servo horzintal or vertical??? Or does it really matter??? The plan only shows using nyrod..

Lots of questions... any comments welcome...