Oh, and the mojo is capable of any manuver, and does them all well. So I would think it would be much more agile than a twist. I haven't flown a twist, but have seen a couple fly, and they look like a good sport plane, but they look to fall short for all out 3D action. IMO

"more maneuverable than a twist?" Yeah, you could safely say that. Always remember this, friends do not let friends fly H9 twists.
Jeff W.

thanks, i am almost rdy to test fly my sledge(first profile) , but ill think i will stick with burrito

Hey don't go ripp'en a plane that is as fun as the Twist when you can get one for 89.00 and it allowed me to win a fun-fly contest which in turn made it more than free with the prizes that were awarded.

As for the servos, I will take the HS-625's out of my Funtana 90s since I don't like it nearly as much as my twist. Heck they are only .22oz heavier than the 605's.

Dave

After you fly a good profile such as the mojo you will forget all about that twist! I agree they are a good bang for the buck, and prolly an excellant sport flyer but are not a serious 3D plane. There is a lot more to 3D than just haging on the prop you know!

I am sure the 625's will be ok in the mojo. They are overkill but so are the 605's! At some point I am going to build another Mojo, just for a back up. They are so easy to build I figre why not?? [8D]

dwmtl1000s, do not get ruffled just funnin the twist owners. As capthis said, they are fine for sport flying but for serious 3D they are not a player, and there is nothing wrong with that. Jeff W.

Hey there JWILLIAMS, Man I am 30 years old. Nothing ruffles MY feathers ever, so go ahead and dish out anything you want. I know we are all hear to enjoy this hobby and we all dish it out to our buddies at the field so it shouldn't be any different here. (play-on)

Dave

Dave, I have standard Futuba 3004 servos in both of my OMP Edges and they work just fine. I use a HS-55 for the throttle. Of course, I am just a beginner at 3D, so please take fact that into account. I have never flown anything with faster, more powerful servos, so I'm not sure just what that difference would be in flying characteristics. Good luck with your MOJO.

Vince

Well I have my wing framed up and now need to sheet it. I hate sheeting. Hey Capthis I am taking your advice and giving up on my twist. I torn it up a week or two ago and instead of fixing it I am using the gear out of it for my Mojo.

That's the beauty of the Mojo design. Very little sheeting. I like you really don't care to sheet things but it is necessary. If you wet one side of the balsa only it will begin to take shap of the wing ribs as it curls up. I just use a wet paper towel, and get one side nice and damp. The sheeting of the mojo is very easy, and will only take a few minutes, and you'll be done.

I think after you get to flying a plane such as the Mojo, you will soon forget all about that twist. You'll most likely wonder why you ever wasted time with it in the first place. I have completely flown the crap out of mine, and really enjoy it.

Paul is coming out with a larger size Mojo for 60 2-strokes, and 91 4-strokes which will have a 55 inch wing. You can bet I will most likely have to get one of those as well. [:@]

Hey Bryan! I'm like you, I hate sheeting wings! I sheeted the wing on my Mojo the other night and was surprised at how easy it went on! Just wet that puppy down, and in no time it's ready to glue down. You just have to take your time.

How about that 60 size Mojo?!?!?! I haven't even finished my 40 size, and Paul already has a 60 size almost ready to sell! Dude, I can't keep up! I put my name in with Pauly for one of the kits when it's ready. It should really rock with a Saito 91!

Here's how far I am on my MOJO.

Dave

Dave be sure and pin that wing back down to the board before you install the leading, and trailing edge sheeting. I usually completely finish one side of the wing before un pinning to make sure the wing stays straight. That wing will not be straight if you do not pin it back down. Also keep it pinned while you install the shear webs as well.

The last thing in the world you want is a wing with a big warp in it.

From your pics it looks like you are doing fine so far, so keep up the good work! After you build a few profiles you won't even need the instructions. I very briefly looked through my mojo instructions before starting.


Hey Razor, Send the new (60) kit to me. I can have it back to you ready for covering in a couple weeks. I'll build it for you pretty reasonable!

Hey Dave here is a pic just for motivation. I know it was previously in the thread but I really like this one. Just looks cool with the barn in the background and all. [8D]

Dude, you are so kind.............................................. ..

The inverted harrier looks great. The shear webs are in and it was pinned down when I did it. Friday I will be sheeting the wing and hopefully starting the fus.

Dave

My new opinion is screw the twist.

Careful there, Dwmt100s! Keep this up, and you'll be flying nothing but those flat, ugly planes!

I built my fuse last night in just an hour or so, and that was taking my time. This thing goes together so quick and easy! I got to fly Paul's original Mojo, and it's amazing that something that flies so well can go together so easy! My hat's off to you, Paul Swany! [8D]

Where do I buy a MOJO kit. Didn't see it in the thread. Its the only Swany plane not listed under "Birds" on the ProBro site.
Phil

Try going to www.swanyshouse.com. It you can't order one there, then shoot him a PM and he'll hook you up.

Ok so this sheeting thing isn't so bad after all. I have one side completely done and am going to be flipping it here in a minute. Man would it be great if I can stay at it until this wing is done. By the way its amazing as to how many smoke breaks you can take while allowing glue to dry. I figure its a wash, you either suck in the CA fumes or a little smoke. Smoking definitly is a real bad habit to have though. "Kids don't try this at home"

Dave

OK so you all know that I hate sheeting wings. Well here's why, In the directions it tells you to glue the 1/16" x 4" sheets to the upper sub spar and then after you have finished the top to wet them and flip it over and glue them down. WELL one of the sheets was really hard and I hadn't noticed until I was TRYING to roll it around the leading edge. The sheet was soaking wet in windex and wouldn't bend well at all so I decided to soak it and put some rubber bands around it and to leave it over night and then repeat it until it was good to go. Well I decided to move some of the rubber bands around a bit and BROKE the sheet in half. DAMN. DAMN. So I tore it off as best I could and then smoked a bunch of cigarette's. I decided to try the other side and it went over and around the leading edge like warm butter.

So now I need to sand all of the remaining leading edge sheeting off and try to get the CA off with out screwing it all up before I can try it again. I would love to tell you all the choice words I had when it happened but the moderators would probably not allow me back.

By the way the rubber band when placed at each rib location work just great at holding the edges down with out bowing it at all. Just make sure you put a little piece of tissue or toilet paper at the trailing edge because the rubber band will make a small indentation otherwise.

Dave

here's a pic.

Dave

I had one sheet that was a little stubborn and didn't want to bend without cracking. After letting it sit wet for awhile, I started to slowly bend the sheeting over. I worked my way back and forth along the length of the sheeting, bending it a little at a time. Eventually, I got it bent over just like it needed to be. You just have to have a little patience.

Dwm,
You are looking good there my friend! Sorry to hear about the little mishap with the sheeting. For what it's worth, try segementing your wood before you build. On all of Pauls planes, (or any plane for that matter) certian locations call for really straight stock, or flexible sheeting or even stiff sheeting. For example: When I open a MoJo kit, I pick my trailing edge pieces carefully, those need to be the straightest. I then look at the available 1/4" left and find the stiffest pieces for the spars and then the leading edges. Then move on to the sheeting - find the lightest and most "loose grained" you can for the LE sheeting. Use any stiff stuff for the decking in the center section. That seems to work pretty well for me.

Also, don't make the mistake I made on my first one. I decided to build the tail feathers first. When I got done cutting up all the 1/4" to build those, I was short for the stuff needed for the wing! I had plenty laying around, but if you build in the sequence of the instructions there is enough.

Your build looks really clean...great job.

J.

Excellant advice. I couldn't have said it better myself. I always look throught the wood, and make different "piles". It just comes from experience. The best thing about kits is, you can almost always fix them if you screw something up. Yes it's aggravating, but you learn from mistakes. I bet from now on you will use the softer sheeting for leading edges!

I also try to use scrap wood where I can. Such as the shear webs. I almost always have 1/16" scrap sheeting that is perfect for these. That way I don't have to cut up a full sheet into little pieces. I guess I am frugal, but I will always try to find a piece of wood just long enough for the job without much waste. That way whenever I get a wild hare to scratch build or I cheated a piece of wood it's no big deal.