The following shows the installation of skin type hinges on the tail surface.

Cut a piece of taffeta (nylon fabric available at wedding shops and arts and crafts stores) wide enough to make a hinge surface.

Spray a small amount of 3M77 to the cloth and apply the cloth to the top of the tail surface on the hinge line.

Apply 3/4 ounce fiberglass cloth with Skin It epoxy. Use a squeegee to spread out the epoxy.

Lay the tail surfaces between 2 pieces of polyester fabric (peel ply).

Lay the tail surfaces in the homemade vacuum bag.

Turn the vacuum pump on gradually pull the air out of the bag.

Adjust parts as needed and allow it to pull 6" of Hg vacuum.

Let the epoxy dry approximately 24 hours.

Take the time to inspect the finish of the wing. If there are any defects then fix them now before going on to finishing.

The left wing trailing edge was a little thin so I chose to fix it. Some Skin It and micro-balloons were mixed and applied as needed. After it dries it will be sanded as needed.

The tail surface was removed from the vacuum bag and peel ply.

A sanding block was used to trim the extra fiberglass.

<font size="2">The tail surface was slipped in the fuselage and the alignment was checked.</font>

The tail was removed and the slot less hinges were finished.

A Dremel tool and cut off disk were used to cut a 1/16" wide slot at the hinge line (bottom surface).

A razor saw was used near the tips to make the control surface.

Balsa was removed to allow the installation of the control horn.

Remove any extra balsa at the hinge line and adjust for easy movement of the control surface.

Install the control horn inside the fuselage.

Tape over the control horn as needed.

Check the alignment of the tail and glue it in place with epoxy and micro-balloons.

Apply some epoxy micro-balloon mix to the control horn as needed.

After this dries it will be sanded flush with the flying surface.

A razor saw is used to cut two slots so the control surface can move.

Hay Scott looks like some thing you did on your AJ 2 Q/40. Were did you learn that ???
That skinned hinge works great

Yep, it was based upon the AJ-2 construction that you gave me the tip on.

Thanks,

Use a razor saw to cut off the rudder from the vertical tail surface.

Sand the inside of the surfaces prior to applying epoxy.

Glue balsa parts in place using epoxy.

Install temporary hinges.

Sand the leading edge of the rudder surface for movement and stick parts together to check fit.

The servos and carbon fiber pushrods were installed prior to painting the model.

Plan out the installation of the receiver and antenna. The receiver was attached with Velcro.

The rudder pushrod exits the right side of the fuselage. The elevator pushrod is internal to the fuselage. Use a keeper on the elevator clevis.

The second hole was made to remove some epoxy that was in the way of the control linkage.

Put some paper towels in the radio compartment and motor area.

Inspect the surface of the model one more time. If there are areas that need to be fixed then address them now. I used a lightweight polyester body filler. Mix and apply. These dry in a few minutes. Sand as needed.

Once the surface is smooth it is further filled with a mixture of Spackle and water. About 2 teaspoons were mixed with a little water.

This is spread over the entire finish. Just work the mixture into the surface with your hands (gloves are recommended).

Let this dry overnight.

Once the Spackle water mix dries you can mix some 2-part primer.

I used Klass Kote white epoxy primer. Mix about 5 to 6 ounces (by weight) and let set about 1/2 hour before adding reducer.

While the epoxy is setting lightly sand the surface of the model.

Use a rag to remove the majority of the dust and finish with an air hose.

Once the epoxy has set about a 1/2 hour some reducer is added.

An inexpensive spray gun was purchased from Harbor Freight.

It was adjusted as needed and it was used to apply the primer.

The primer was sprayed on the model.

Parts were just set out of the way until they were dry.

The model was wet sanded with 320 grit paper and then it was inspected.

There were a few areas that were not as filled and smooth enough for painting.

A second coat of primer was applied.

The half face respirator was purchased from Harbor Freight for about $20. A respirator should be used when painting, especially when spraying epoxy type paints.

The model was wet sanded one more time.

Temporary hinges were removed. Some CA hinges were slid in place to prepare for final gluing.

Some epoxy micro-balloons were mixed and used to glue the torque rods to the ailerons.

Make sure the ailerons are aligned properly and apply a couple drops of CA at each of the hinges. Turn it over and CA the other side of the hinges.

I used some acrylic enamel car paint for the base coat on the model.

The paint was purchased from a local NAPA parts store from my area.

The paint was mixed to the ratio discussed in the directions. It was sprayed on with the spray gun shown earlier.

I can't read the small can.  Is it the catalyst/hardener?

The small can is the hardener.

About 8 parts enamel to one part hardener is the mix.

Reducer is added as needed.

Yes, without the hardener the paint will wipe off if you get raw fuel with nitro on it.  In fact with the hardner I have spilled 60% nitro fuel on it and it holds up real well

Once the base coat has dried inspect the finish and decide if it needs to be wet sanded.

My model had dust and blemishes that needed to be removed. I chose to wet sand the surface with 2000 grit wet and dry sand paper.

Attach the wing to the fuselage and plan out the paint job.

I used a proven design that was used on my AJ-2.