Im just asking becasue I heard that they dropped the price to 469.99,I did see a few places on the net for that price,But most places are still 549.99.
And also I want to make sure I buy the new upgraded version,well not upgraded but the way it should be with no mistakes

I am not sure about any newer version except for earlier in Mayhem production the clutch shoes were replaced and longer 3x16mm screw was used to mount rear body support. I did go out today and bought 3x16mm screws and 3mm nylon locknuts to replace the screw that holds the tierod balls to the rear shock tower and to replace screws on bellcrank. Now I do have a question. What is the screw on the front bellcrank that needs to be replaced? Does anyone have a drawing?
Rockman

First time posting here ( at least in this thread). I am a proud Mayhem owner, been putting it through the paces. I have a couple of q's. My engine runs in between 240-300, are these safe operating temps?
I took the Mayhem to work today and put on a show for everyone at lunch. Everyone was astounded with the air it was getting off the jump I set up. I literally beat the daylights out of it and it came back for more. My last jump I landed wrong and it broke the bolt going through the top of the right front shock to the shock tower. These normally break or just a bad landing? Where can I buy new bolts?

Thanks,
Josh

ive found the cheapest prices at my lhs.

rtr- $480.00
arr- $460.00

www.hobbyhaven.com

I would think that is getting dangerously high. I try and keep mine lower than 230.

Okay folks. I am starting to tinker with my new Mayhem and I noticed when I opened the box my number is 3305 so I will suppose it is not one of the "mature" Mayhems. Do you think I got the bum clutch shoes and springs I heard about? I exchanged the rear body mount with a 3x16mm flathead and changed out the cap head screw that holds the ball end of rear tie rod to shock tower with 3x16mm and used nylon bolt. So far so good. Now according to the Horizon Hobby web page I should also change out screws in the front around the steering crank. I don't have any idea which of the screws to change out.
Can anybody help with this??
I also put on axle boots and GS shock shaft covers. Fits like a glove. I went over all of the buggy and tightened everything. My next step is to exchange the dogbones on the center line with the Losi LST centerline axles which are universals.
Rockman

the screws you should exchange are the turning points, interior at the steering rack passing through the little turning inserts
place there also 16 mm and nyllock
check if tires are glued well(after first ride) and little screws holding susp./wings supports rods to torque rods

just busted my wheel nuts
&ùµ£Ã*&ù£
wheel and tire busted to and all blocked up
what now??

you all better order HD ones

had to amputate a cvd leg to get the mess mose
any one knows off a other brands wheelnut that would fit without shimms or so ?

the outside c-clips
you can easly convert to scews holding the pins, make a small hole for a small screw
just besides the pins xb8 like

i have a question. i know this is about the mayhem buggy but has anyone seen the new 1/8 scale mayhem stadium truck? pro's? con's? tim

I have run 5 tanks through the Mayhem and running at 175 degrees. With the White Lightning 20% fuel I don't think I will need to lean it out much more. Runs very cool and has more speed then I can handle. I notice you also don't have to run the low end lean to get the quick acceleration. I have leaned it about half turn from the box setting on LSN and 3/4's on the HSN. Very fast.
I LIKE IT!!
Rockman

Do you mean Agitator Body? I myself have a Pro and RTR and I purchase from Horizon constantly but the only new body I have seen is the Agitator which I just painted at it looks awesome. If there is a new body besides the Agitator please let me know.

I have a Crowd Pleazer 7.5 on mine, fits great and has a little extra room on it too............

Also, anyone seen or heard anything on the new Mayhem ST? Other that what's on Horizon's website. I have a Storm SUT, but I am thinking of selling it for a ST. I am very impressed by the Storm and Sportwerks commitment to making sure that there is plenty of nice add-ons. I'm sure that it will continue for the ST as well.

-Seann

The first time I ran the Mayhem with the body on I noticed that the manifold pipe melted where the body touches the pipe. Brand new and melted the body!!
Any one else run across this problem and how did you correct so it won't happen again?
I put duct tape over the burnt spot to keep from making it worse.
Rockman

Same thing happened to my pipe, that's why I went with a bigger body.

-Seann

I use 3000 weight in the front and rear and 5000 in the middle, get your tools and tear into it, it's very easy, I might add Aluminum Diff housing @ about 10.00 apiece

cutting front arms with tool
:
http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfold...ontarm.cut.jpg

My Mayhem body was rubbing on the exhaust manifold too, i took it off and filed the flat part at an angle so that it can rotate down and clear the body. Do that it should work.

I drive 5000/7500/2500 now seems to go well

alu diff shells are smaller and have play of mms.
into the plastic rings holding all together....??
so I sold them...

hello all,
i don't want to hijack a thread, but i'm a newb and i don't how to post a new thread. i wanted some advice from those of you with more experience and knowledge about the mayhem buggy. i wanted to buy a mayhem rtr or a mayhem pro arr w/ engine and pipe. what is the difference besides the radio and servos? which should i get ? i have a radio, so that is not my concern. is the pro model that much better with the hopups to get than the rtr? i might start racing so i might consider the pro, but please tell a detailed defference and if it is worth to get the pro model instead of the rtr. i also heard rtr has weaker parts? thanks for your time and advice. help[8D]

You should buy the RTR.

The ARR needs a starter box, servos, receiver, transmitter, paint for the body. It does have a few upgraded parts which make it a more sturdy buggy but the RTR parts are more than durable. My recommendation is that you buy the RTR and learn with something that comes setup from the factory. If you break something it will be because you crashed very hard.

Get the Pro..better shocks,engine mounts,class-spec engine,better chassis,thicker towers, and more Pro parts that you will grow in to. I had Pro and it ran well. The Pro also has a lower center of gravity with the engine sitting lower.Both are good buggies, but the Pro is better.

In my opinion there is not a great deal of difference in the Pro and RTR.
Pro has threaded collar on shocks - RTR has clips but you can buy collars, not expensive. Other than that the shocks are the same.
Pro has CVD center line shafts - RTR has dogbones. The CVDs can be bought for about $24 each. Now this can be expensive but dogbones work fine.
Motor mount on Pro is lower to allow for starter box use. RTR doesn't need starter box because it uses a rotostart type setup.
Other than that the buggies are the same. With RTR you also get a nice radio. The motor is very nice for a .26 but is not race legal at some tracks. My tracks don't mind the .26.
Have fun either way.
Rockman

I almost forgot. Yes the Pro shock towers are thicker but you can buy a very nice pair of shock towers on Ebay for 15.00 for front and rear.
Rockman