Hi MayhemMadness,


Thanks for your reply but I am not sure you are leaving valid info here. Run at idle on the first tank or two is exactly what you are suppose to do per the owners guide and the lhs. As far as the temp goes 240 is a great range to run in but this motor can handle more heat lke 270 280 it just would not last as long as a motor running at your 240 temp. The guy that owns the lhs I bought it from says he runs all of his nitro's at 300. I will run mine around the 240 range myself. As far as damage done to my motor I doubt it as the compression is still strong plus I am using break in fuel and it just spiked to that temp I wasn't running it there, But I will check for damaged.


Thanks


P.s.. I did check for air leaks by the body of the carb with soapy water and when blowing into the top of the carb pretty hard it started to buble up on one side of the body so I took off the carb cleaned it up and put some high temp rtv around the seat where the carb sits into on the crankcase replaced the carb and tightened it down real good I believe that should take care of that problem.

hey yeah im just telling you what my lhs says and they said you should never run past 250... you can take it or leave it

Chicago,
The sportwerks and mach motors tend to run a little hotter than some of the other engines out there. By the way, what fuel are you using? Nitro % and oil %?
I run Trinity Horsepower 30% nitor with 12% oil. I beleive this is the best power and oil combination.
When I break in an engine I never leave it idling and make sure I get up to 200 degrees as soon as possible but try to keep temp below 240 range. Run at 200 temp for about 2 to 3 minutes making lazy figure 8s and don't full throttle yet. Do this in 2 minutes cool down and make sure the piston is at bottom of stroke out of the sleeve pinch. Then run next tank about 5 minutes and cool down, restart until out of fuel. You should be good to go.
By the way, I believe your low speed needle is way to lean and needs to fatten out some.
Rockman

Rockman,

I decided I suck at tuning cars and just droped it off at the lhs for there engine guy to tune I shoud get it tomorrow night can't wait to see what I was doing wrong. Also I am running trinity 20% nitro break in fuel

I don't believe in "break in" fuel. My opinion is you breakin engine with what you will run with. Go up to 30% nitro. You will get the power you want and most likely run cooler since you want have to lean out as much.
Rockman

yea rockman i agree withy you.at the end of my tanks running 30% fuel it comes of the track 220-240.it all has to do with the way the motor is tuned.and on the breaking in part i 100% agree with what you said.and as far as the ones who dont i guess they will figure it out after a few motors[&o]

Well I guess I was mislead after I bought it the owner gave me that without even asking for it because he said I would need that for breaking in the motor because it has alittle more lubricant in it. What would be the pro's and con's of lower and higher nitro fuel's on the mayhem and also is the exhaust from nitro harmfull ?

nitro fumes are poisenous
but really only in great or daily quantities

when every day you start your engine
in your closed garage or so
or indoor tracks

even for almost a w.e. 3 days race in an indoor track at some time
pilots didn't see but their car's rear wing
doing rabbit jumps, that's all

I did run and jump, and run and jump
in that smog for hours marshalling
and I didn't feel anything funny ....

The guy at the lhs told me that he runs his mayhem with no carb insert and it "rips" where his exact words any taught on that ? Is any one else doing that ?

Dan

Chicago, I agree that you need a little more oil content for the motor but don't go over 12% oil and do run 30% nitro. When I first got into the hobby I ran the Trinity Monster Fuel with 16% oil and it was terrible. I couldn't sustain a good tune and it kept getting bogged down. I then went to White Lightening 30% with 8% oil and it ran great but the engine got to hot and I didn't think I was gaining anything by richening out the engine. I have found the middle of the road is best with Trinity 30% with 12% oil. I believe O'Donnell also has excellent fuel.
I am concerned that your LHS would tell you that it is okay to run without the carb insert. DON'T DO THIS!!
You need the insert for two reasons. It helps keep the air cleaner hooked on and the design of the insert helps increase velocity of air flow in the carb due to the funnel effect. You may also damage your engine doing this and I wouldn't think you would gain any power.
Anyway best of luck to you and let us know how things are going.
Rockman

you can run without the insert i know alot a guys who do it.i tried it but did not notice much gain over the 9mm insert.it wont damage your motor but you will want to make double shure that your carb boot is secured very well or you will toast the motor.well good luck on whatever you do[sm=thumbup.gif]

i already blew my first engine and im on the second one and im extreamly carfull.. i still dident put any bigger insert than the 6.5 cause i dont wanna risk it.. but even still i still dust my friends revo all day anyday.. its hilarious

the motors will run hard with any of the three inserts.it just takes them longer to hit on top.but the smaller ones make the power more manageable.

The guy that tuned my engine said without an insert the air wouldn't flow smooth into the carb and your much better off with any of the three supplied with the mayhem. I am currently running the 7.5 and plan to move to the 9 later

I picked up my truck today and while the guy was showing me outside how well it runs the clutch bell came loose and it lost a bearing and the screw he fixed it and explained to me that they didn't put lock tight on the screw that holds it in and it needed like 5 shims or washer to take out the slack you guys may want to check yours for play and put some lock tite on that screw, But anyways this thing hauls ass I mean it really moves all the guys watching that have revo's and savages where impressed with how the truck gets down and squats when it takes off now I just have to learn to drive it lol

yea the smae thing happened to me.. once i screwed around with it and took the clutch off i dident locktight it back and the clutchbell spun right off and i lost the bearings.. now im running black magic bearings witch are 3 bucks a pop.. works good thoo... this weenend ima by a jp1 or jp2 or this really nice carbon fiber pipe.. i just dont know the route to go any suggestions?

Go with the JP2 pipe for more low to mid torque power. The JP1 is more designed for long full power runs. The JP2 is designed more for a track with turns and smaller running area. I put the JP2 pipe on my buggy and it takes off. You will need to cut the pipe hanger wire some to shorten it since the pipes are longer.
Rockman

You have that exactly backwards:
JP-1 Low end, short track
JP-2 High end, long track

Hey Rockman,

Same thing with me about the fuel I used trinity's break in fuel 20% nitro 16 oil and it ran really bad and thick fuel was coming out of my exhaust.
I am really interested in running the white lighting 20% nitro and 8% oil I hear thats really good do you think it would run hot with 10% less nitro content than you ran?

Also I hear blue thunder is great but they don't list there oil content what do you think I just want to run strong and safe.


Dan

hey my lhs said that o'donnel 30 % is the best for offroad cause it has the perfect blend of oil and nitro.. he said NEVER use blue thunder for offroad cause it doesnt have that much oil and you need that when hitting jumps and the tires off the ground.. need that extra lubracation...

Yes but I heard that you need to add extra shim in your motor if you go with the 30% nitro ?

no not really... the feul is already balanced and has the perfect blend of oil and nitro..just a reminder.. the higher the nitro content the more difficult and frustrating it is to tune it.. use 20-30 for maximum performance and lubracation.. also the higher the nitro the less oil thats in it.. greater risk of overheating

Nope, I don't think I do have that backwards. Go to the web site for OFNA and they will tell you that many people believe it is backwards the way OFNA describes the pipe.

i would not say that odonell is the best.although it is good.you might want to try sidewinder fuel.it is great and offers good protection for the motor.a lot of pro drivers are runnin it.and that is all i will run now my self is 30% and i did not have to shim the head up. that is with the stock .26. now if you have a .21 then you will[sm=thumbup.gif]

http://www.ofna.com/pipes-18.html
Rockman, you're wrong this time

yeah rockman
we're not used you doing that..
what's the matter, still got new years blues

jp1 : low/mid end+/ short tracks
jp2 : mid/high end +/ long tracks