I have now idled through four tanks off feul and today I'm going to take her out for her first ride... SLOWLY for another two tanks and then some...

I have now driven a couple of times with me new MST and from the first day had lots of fun but on day two had some probs. Thing is, for it to start the idling needs to be really high if I set it down it stalls. If I drive it on the high revs I have lots of white smoke boweling form oulet this means it is set too rich but if I lean it out in the slightest it does not want to start. The first day I went for a drive I changed to a no. 5 glowplug rcomended by my local. It says on the back a pack "No 5 Cold - for Nitro Fuel from 10 to 15 cc." It has a really thick ellement. The second day, when I had the problems, it was a bit colder day. My dealer said that might make a diferance in starts. [sm=drowning.gif]

The best plug for Sportwerks motors is a McCoy 59 plug. Medium to hot plug gives better timing to the motor.
You may also want to check a couple of other potential problems.
Tighten down the 4 screws that hold on the engine heat sink. Tighten in X cross pattern.
You may have an air leak in fuel lines. Replace.
You may want to check to make sure your fuel filter is tight in case of air leak.
Your engine backplate may be loose.
Check to see if your high speed needle assembly is tight but be careful to not damage the soft metal
Check to see if your carb body in all the way in.
You could have a broken clutch spring. Take off clutch bell to check this.
See if your clutch bell spins freely. If not could be a bearing problem.
You either have an airleak or something is binding your clutchbell causing a stall.
Good luck.
Rockman

CVD SHAFT WEAKNESS ON MAYHEMS: My buddy just got his sportwerks mayhem and it's a great car but we noticed that the front CVD's bent VERY easy. I have a Hyper 8 and I had spare CVD's in my tool box. We thought we would see if they would work in his car as they are much tougher. Well they are the perfect length but we ran into only one snag. The pins for the drive hubs are 2 different sizes between the two cars. The Hyper 8 drive pin is smaller so what we did was drill the hole in the shaft to match his bigger drive pins and presto the thing is super tough now. The parts are very hard so a good cobalt drill is manditory or it will just dull right away. Cobalt drill tips: slow speed, oil it, and good pressure on it and it will drill it.

Option 2 would be to use the drive assembly and CVD's off the Hyper 8 and they will fit right in, you just have to buy a couple more parts then you need.

Hope this helps.... I know he's giddy again now that we aren't straightening his bent up CVD's after every run.

Great handling car... SW .21 is a stout nitro mill too!!!!

wats a good glow plug for my sirio .26? im runnin white lightning fuel and in summer weather

I promise that this is the first I have heard of someone bending the CV axles in a Mayhem. I have driven mine all summer in club races and have yet to break a part.
I wonder if something is binding?
Rockman

Yeah just read your message and funny enough I thought last night it might be a bearing. As soon I push the car (completly off) there was significant resistance. Took the motor out spun the clutch bell and BOOOM there it was. Siezed!!!!! Got two new ones today and just put them in. Was there a possabilaty that there is damage to the clutch and/or crank shaft??
[quote]ORIGINAL: Rockman

wat battery packs u guys use for ur mayhem, jus need to know to get one

Hoi no genius meself but is it normal to have bubbles in your fuel line my idling is very sporradic then high then low???

You need to replace your fuel line and pressure line.
You also could have an airleak at the lid of tank. Make sure it is pushed down all the way or maybe tighten the middle screw under the tank lid just a little bit to push the o-ring out more.
Rockman

Any receiver battery pack will work on the Mayhem. I use Oriion 1200 mah NiMH 5 cell hump pack. I pulled out the stock switch and put in a new 3 wire switch that has futuba type plugs. This allows me to charge the battery without taking it out. Very simple to do this.
Rockman

Cheers Rockman, anothter thing that does not make sence to me is the fact that the fuel filter is on the presure line why is that and shouldn't it be on the actual fuel line??

According to Sportwerks, the fuel filter is purposely in the pressure line to prevent a lean situation which can occur when you have a full tank of fuel and fuel backwashes into the pressure line causing a drop in pressure in the fuel feed. They say that the tank has a fuel filter built into it and that's why they don't include a fuel line filter.

Yeah that does make sence but, I was hoping that putting the filter on the fuel line might capture any air and store it in the top of the filter. But if that would work ideally it would be a good idea to have some type of one-way valve on the presure line right. I know of a very small one that you would use to pump up say something like a football using a ordanary bicycle pump.

What is the differ in control with a moster truck and the buggy what one has better control on jump and sharp turns...what one would flip easyer on a jump or sparp truns????

i dont own either a monster truck or a buggy but come on cant u just think about it. A monster truck has a higher cg and a buggy has a lower one. You can jump and drive them both just as hard but if u race a buggy would be way better.

Good thoughts on why we put a fuel filter on the pressure line off of the pipe. I have always heard that it is there to take out the pulsing of pressure from the pipe to the fuel tank. This provides for more constant and consistent pressure.

Buggys are by far the better jumpers and work best on the track. However, I own both and have lots of fun running my Losi LST on the track when it is setup for race conditions.
Have fun.
Rockman

I never heard that before, but that makes sense about the more stable pressure, However I actually have two good sized fuel filters on the feed side not the pressure side. This was something I had noticed others doing for two reasons. It allowed for additional fuel capacity, this allows a car to possibly squeeze an extra lap or two in during a long main. ( Mains are not something I regularly have had to worry about) ha ha, however the second reason I do find somewhat of a benefit and that is, when you spend enough time with your car on it's back the fuel in the line and additional fuel filters is what the motor has left to run on. This is due to the pick up in the tank being at the bottom. I will tell you first hand that this holds true. In the early stages of my driving during practice, when you marshall yon your own, or that frequent bashing afternoon and your running in some huge grass field,, I do not have to run near as fast to get the vehicle turned over before it dies. Nothing worse then flipping over at the far end of a track or large field, and just getting to the vehicle to find it quit at that same moment. Back to the starter box and start over.

As far as my two cents on the discussion of which vehicle handles better of road, I agree with Rockman, I have both only my MT's are a couple of Revos that are both set up for the track, I compete with both and can tell you they are two different vehicles entirely. The
1\8th buggy has been designed for the type of racing we have here, and they are much easier to drive, to me anyway. They far out accelerate, jump any MT that I had ever driven.

That was until I purchased a Kyosho Inferno STR, I just finished building the kit last week and took it to the track this afternoon to prep for tomorrows race. Now this maybe the best of both worlds, this is one of a few true truggies available, (not a conversion) when I did my research, and thought this to be the best purchase. It handles and jumps just like my buggy and although heavier and bigger tires I feel would make a good case for a MT vers. a buggy. possibly the merge of the two is the best of both worlds. I'm not entirely sure it should have the Monster Truck label. It's more like the buggy then then a MT. For now it is classed with the MT's and I cannot wait to get it out tomorrow and see how it competes.

I'm sure I'm just unlucky but I have now being having probs with my Mayhem since I got it. 1st it was the clutch bearings and then it was air in hte fuel line, that has now grown to no fuel whatsoever being drawn through the fuel line. I still have not changed the fuel line, will get around that today, but I cant see any holes in the tube and can it get so severe HELP ME PLEASE !!! My car is not even a 2 weeks old....

Ok lets try a couple of things that Rockman was having you look at as well. Check to see where the fuel line feeds into the carb, that entire brass post gets loose once in awhile. You want to be very careful not to overtighten this due to the possibility of stripping that at the base of the carb. There is a nut portion on that stem, hold that firm and attempt to hand tighten it to see if that has become your source of the air leak.
Something else you could try is actually blow through the fuel line connected to you pipe and attempt to push the fuel through the system, while your doing this check to see if you can hear or see air leaks, if you get nothing at all then we have a blockage somewhere and that is when I would investigate the fuel filter or something in the middle of the line.
Let me ask you are holding your finger over the tip of the pipe while turning over the engine as this will help aid in priming the system and you can typically see fuel moving through the lines at this point.
Take the air filter off and hold you finger over the carb and this will give you the same effect as priming the system from the pipe, but it is sometimes easier if to see the fuel come through that way. either way will work. good luck and let me know

IT worked, It worked I changed the lines and.... BOOOM SHAKA. took her out for some bashing and man!!![sm=biggrin.gif]

Or you could just change the lines, (Just kidding) glad to hear you have it going.

How do I post n video from "My Documents"

I wouldn't no where to begin go to this link to a forum just full of answers for your questions http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_353/tt.htm

I bought myself a infrared thermometer but nowhere in my manual does it say what the ideal running temp. should be or which screw to turn clockwise or anticlockwise for cooler or hotter temp. It does explain how to check the temp using the drop of water, but I think that is too inacurate for tuning your first engine. I'd rather play it safe. I have a Mayhem st with a .26 engine. I find the manual very incomplete there is also nothing about the wheel inlignment or caster and canter.
Oh, and what benifit is it to adjust the hardness of the supention. Front and/or rear, or higher or lower.
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