Official Mayhem Thread
#1351
I think I have found my answer to the bushing mystery. The thick part goes toward the bottom of the chassis.
I cut a little more than 2mm from the front of the top front A-arm tonight and put in a 1.93mm shim and 2.43mm shim behind the a-arm. (The 1.93 shim is stock)
Anybody else do this yet?
I am next looking at moving my rear hubs forward by putting both shims in the rear of the hinge pin and also putting the roll center turnbuckle on the inside lower hole on rear shock tower. By doing this I had to screw in my shock collars almost to the bottom of shock to get axles level. I am using OFNA light blue springs. I suppose I will need to put in thicker shock oil from the 30 weight to 40 weight. I then put my camber at 1.5 degrees using the RPM gauge.
Any thoughts?
Rockman
I cut a little more than 2mm from the front of the top front A-arm tonight and put in a 1.93mm shim and 2.43mm shim behind the a-arm. (The 1.93 shim is stock)
Anybody else do this yet?
I am next looking at moving my rear hubs forward by putting both shims in the rear of the hinge pin and also putting the roll center turnbuckle on the inside lower hole on rear shock tower. By doing this I had to screw in my shock collars almost to the bottom of shock to get axles level. I am using OFNA light blue springs. I suppose I will need to put in thicker shock oil from the 30 weight to 40 weight. I then put my camber at 1.5 degrees using the RPM gauge.
Any thoughts?
Rockman
#1352
well if you have read the fourm you will know that you need to grind the flywheel opening.also buy the pro motor mounts so that it will clear the starter wheel do this by grinding a 45 degree angle edge around the hole.secondly if you have adjusted your idle screw you have probaly done so with the hsn and even the low speed needle.in any case put them all back to the factort settins and go from there.
#1353
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From: Metairie, LA
I don't know if this has been mentioned before, but have any of you noticed how much chassis flex there is in the RTR version? Mine has tons. I can actually see my engine moving when I apply the throttle/brakes. I suppose that the Pro version with the 7075 aluminum and the milled cuts are more rigid, but the RTR's chassis is almost like it's made of rubber. I was going to get a pro chassis, but I've been getting the standard chassis for $26 on ebay. I bash a lot and bending the chassis just isn't that unusual for me.
Last week, I picked up a set of engine mounts for the Mayhem ST and adapted them to my buggy. Now most of the flex is gone and the chassis is much more rigid. I could actually feel the difference on the track. You might want to check it out.
Last week, I picked up a set of engine mounts for the Mayhem ST and adapted them to my buggy. Now most of the flex is gone and the chassis is much more rigid. I could actually feel the difference on the track. You might want to check it out.
#1354
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From: Muscoda, WI
Are you sure it is Chassis Flex? As I had problems with my motor moveing what it turned out to be is that the long bolts that hold the motor in on the RTR Motor mounts would loosen up just a bit when they got warm. Just enough play in it that the motor would move when you blip the throttle. As soon as I got rid of the Motor mounts and went to a bump box that problem was gone.
ORIGINAL: aangelet
I don't know if this has been mentioned before, but have any of you noticed how much chassis flex there is in the RTR version? Mine has tons. I can actually see my engine moving when I apply the throttle/brakes. I suppose that the Pro version with the 7075 aluminum and the milled cuts are more rigid, but the RTR's chassis is almost like it's made of rubber. I was going to get a pro chassis, but I've been getting the standard chassis for $26 on ebay. I bash a lot and bending the chassis just isn't that unusual for me.
Last week, I picked up a set of engine mounts for the Mayhem ST and adapted them to my buggy. Now most of the flex is gone and the chassis is much more rigid. I could actually feel the difference on the track. You might want to check it out.
I don't know if this has been mentioned before, but have any of you noticed how much chassis flex there is in the RTR version? Mine has tons. I can actually see my engine moving when I apply the throttle/brakes. I suppose that the Pro version with the 7075 aluminum and the milled cuts are more rigid, but the RTR's chassis is almost like it's made of rubber. I was going to get a pro chassis, but I've been getting the standard chassis for $26 on ebay. I bash a lot and bending the chassis just isn't that unusual for me.
Last week, I picked up a set of engine mounts for the Mayhem ST and adapted them to my buggy. Now most of the flex is gone and the chassis is much more rigid. I could actually feel the difference on the track. You might want to check it out.
#1356
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From: , FL
HI i just got my mayhem pro .21 i did break in on the engine clutch feels like is slipping alot before grabs the normal on this clutch or a have a defetive clutch
on my kanai never have the problem
on my kanai never have the problem
#1358
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From: Grande Prairie,
AB, CANADA
Anyone know of a chassis that is available for the Mayhem ST truck. The chassis that it comes with i find too short so i would like a longer chassis .
Thanks
Thanks
#1360
Take a look at my Mayhem pictures on Webshots.com. http://community.webshots.com/user/jwrockman
Spent some time on it and will start racing next weekend. I hate when they get dirty.
Many hop ups.
Thick shock towers that are milled and CNC.
Pro level chassis brace front and back.
JR 9000 digital steering servo
Spectrum radio
Silver and blue shim kit used for camber in front
Shaved 2.43mm off the front A-arms for less caster. Can switch out the shims as needed to slide back.
Lower CG engine mount that is also a brace
Jammin JP1 pipe
Crime fighter tires
Agitator body
OFNA blue springs
13t clutch bell coated with Ti.
Spent some time on it and will start racing next weekend. I hate when they get dirty.
Many hop ups.
Thick shock towers that are milled and CNC.
Pro level chassis brace front and back.
JR 9000 digital steering servo
Spectrum radio
Silver and blue shim kit used for camber in front
Shaved 2.43mm off the front A-arms for less caster. Can switch out the shims as needed to slide back.
Lower CG engine mount that is also a brace
Jammin JP1 pipe
Crime fighter tires
Agitator body
OFNA blue springs
13t clutch bell coated with Ti.
#1361
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From: Allen ,
TX
I don't actually have them on my buggy, however I had asked the same question at the track last week, and was told the Offna shocks from their new buggy are a direct fit. I'm not sure they are any better, I was more interested in something that I could get aluminum caps for. I go through the fronts more then I care to admit. I'll ask for a little more detail for you next time I am up there, and get back with you.
[quote]ORIGINAL: Turanden
Does anyone know what other shocks are a direct fit for the mayhem?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Turanden
Does anyone know what other shocks are a direct fit for the mayhem?
#1362
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From: Urbana,
IL
Hey guys, there is a cool interview at www.glitchersrc.com by Rick Wilson (Glitchers Rc pres.) with Sonny Brown of Horizon about the Turmoil. They talk about some of the things Sportwerks change and why. It's a good read, check it out. link is about half way down home page.
#1364
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From: Imperial, MO
What is the stock needle settings for the Mayhem .26 ? How many turns out on the HSN, LSN and where should I set the idle to start retuning one that wont run?
#1365
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From: , WI
HSN is 3.5, LSN is 2. Unfortunately there is really no stock setting for the idle as far as turns out goes. You need to have it so there is a 1 to 1.5 MM gap in the carb opening when you look down the barrel. This should be a very good starting point. GL
#1366
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From: Imperial, MO
Well it is 1am and I just pulled my Mayhem rtr .26 engine out to put in the new stronger motor mounts (SWK9228) that I got at my LHS today. I can not figure out how to mount these? Looks like not even for my car?
#1367
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From: , WI
The smaller of the 2 goes towards the radio box side of the car. I have both the RTR and Pro version and they have the extra holes drilled out already for the fronts of these long supports. I do not have these mounts myself, but dont see why they would not work on my buggies. Are the holes not lining up?
#1368
They will work but put the shorter mount toward the center of buggy and longer toward outside. I put them in and didn't put the 3rd screw in at the very front of the mount since my Mayhem chassis didn't have the hole. They worked great but you can't use the roto start system then. Have to use starter box. Then you have to shave some of the opening and angle it where the flywheel comes out of chassis to touch starter box wheel. By this I mean you shave around the flywheel opening from the bottom of the buggy.
Rockman
Rockman
#1370
Guys, I will tell you that I had a very fun and pretty good run with the Mayhem at the track yesterday. Here is what I did.
I put 3F, 7C, 1R diff fluid in.
I shaved the top A arm enough on the front where it attaches to shock tower 2.43mm to match the size of the clip that is used on the rear hub. So I had a total of 4.43mm shims behind the top A arm pushing it forward for much less caster. Big change in the steering and got rid of a lot of push.
Also installed the Ackerman steering. Push entering turns is Gone.
This made the buggy perform great. I just need to learn to drive it better.
Also I got some advice at the track to run 40 shock oil in front and 35 in the rear.
Rockman
I put 3F, 7C, 1R diff fluid in.
I shaved the top A arm enough on the front where it attaches to shock tower 2.43mm to match the size of the clip that is used on the rear hub. So I had a total of 4.43mm shims behind the top A arm pushing it forward for much less caster. Big change in the steering and got rid of a lot of push.
Also installed the Ackerman steering. Push entering turns is Gone.
This made the buggy perform great. I just need to learn to drive it better.
Also I got some advice at the track to run 40 shock oil in front and 35 in the rear.
Rockman
#1371
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From: , WI
Rock, got any pictures of that? I have been messing with things this morning trying to get it to turn a little better. Did you have any trouble installing the ackerman piece?
#1372
Look on my Webshots web page.
http://community.webshots.com/user/jwrockman
I have my Mayhem setup on there. Some of the pictures are blurred.
I put two shims between ackerman and ball for turnbuckle. I also put one shim between front hub arm and turnbuckle balls on each end.
The trick is to have your turnbuckle keep the same angle of your A arms as they move up and down. That will control the bumpsteer.
Rockman
http://community.webshots.com/user/jwrockman
I have my Mayhem setup on there. Some of the pictures are blurred.
I put two shims between ackerman and ball for turnbuckle. I also put one shim between front hub arm and turnbuckle balls on each end.
The trick is to have your turnbuckle keep the same angle of your A arms as they move up and down. That will control the bumpsteer.
Rockman
#1373
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From: steinbach, MB, CANADA
i would like to know which glow plug i should use for the 26 engine. i had McCoy ones in there and all of sudden i've burnt 2 in the last two weekends.or what would cause them to burn out.
#1374
McCoy MC59 are very good plugs. If they are burning out you are most likely running your buggy to a complete empty tank and this will melt the coil in your buggy. It is best to not run it hot to the end of the tank.
#1375
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From: , WI
Although the MC-59 makes the .26 a screamer, it has a notoriously fragile filament that is known to go bad. Many people like th mc 8 if you have an easy time getting the MC plugs.
Rock, those are some really awesome pictures man. I had also found a picture of shaving the arms on trugggyracers.com, but they were not as good as yours. Before I had even seen your post I did it to both buggies with no problems, and I actually did it with nothing more than a utility knife. I hope to get to the track tomorrow to test it out. I dont have the ackerman plate yet, I am kinda hoping to not have to get it either. The 2 buggies are for the kids to race, but I still cant stop trying to hop them up and make them better. I got to drive in the qualifiers last week with the one since my boy did not race, and the turn racing really seems to hamper me. I had to let off way too much in the corners while other seemed to be powering thru them.
Rock, those are some really awesome pictures man. I had also found a picture of shaving the arms on trugggyracers.com, but they were not as good as yours. Before I had even seen your post I did it to both buggies with no problems, and I actually did it with nothing more than a utility knife. I hope to get to the track tomorrow to test it out. I dont have the ackerman plate yet, I am kinda hoping to not have to get it either. The 2 buggies are for the kids to race, but I still cant stop trying to hop them up and make them better. I got to drive in the qualifiers last week with the one since my boy did not race, and the turn racing really seems to hamper me. I had to let off way too much in the corners while other seemed to be powering thru them.


