I promise that the ackerman will make the difference with the shaved front top a-arm. I was able to drive the buggy with less effort. I even was able to finally set up my brakes and throttle the right way to allow the rear end to come around to match up with the quick turn. If you see a Mugen, Xray or Jammin you will see the top a-arms are narrow at the inside hinge point as compared to the Mayhem. I set mine up to shave 2.43mm to match the rear hub clips.
I will be glad to help in any way. By the way I did shave a little bit of the hub covers on each end of the front to allow for more turn.
Remember to use thread lock when installing the ackerman because there is not enough room to put nut under turnbuckle end.
Rockman

thanks for the reply ROCKMAN,i'm just a newbie to nitro i used to do electric a few years back. i wish i had high speed for your pictures,what is an ackerman anyway.i see you have the jp1 pipe .how is that with the 26. what diff fluids are you running in your car i changed mine to 5000 in the front,7000 center and 3000 rear.how does the 26 compare to other engines when you race like the p5 .are you using a starter box as well.i bought the sportwerks cyclone box the wheel was a piece of junk and wore out really fast had to go back to the roto start.

I will try to help on each of your questions. I am still asking many questions myself at the track and will convey to you what I have learned. If your track is dusty, packed and slick it is like our track. Most are like this. We have a great group of guys that run on our track and I believe it is one of the best in North Carolina.

Okay, here is what I have been told to do: 3f,7c,1r diff fluid. This combined with the cutting of the top a-arm in front where it meets the shock tower by at least 2mm and use of ackerman steering plate you will most likely get rid of most of the push entering the turns. Remember to put an extra 2mm shim on the hinge pin up front to compensate for the cutting of the a-arm. I have also been told and will follow this advice of how to setup the shocks. Put 40 in front and 35 in rear with the black Sportwerks springs. Set your preloads on your shocks to axle levels. Run 2 degrees camber all around. The rear has a standard 3 degree toe in due to the toe block. The front should be adjusted to 1 degree toe out. I put my roll center in the inner most bottom hole in the rear shock tower. Continue to use your sway bars.
I left my rear hubs with the 2.43mm shims on each side on the outer bottom hinge pin. I also left my rear turnbuckle connected at stock postion on the rear hubs.
Now for shock location I put it on the outermost hole on each bottom a-arm. and put the top of shocks in the outer bottom holes at top of tower. That is my preference and many others will give suggestions. Test it out and see what works for you.
I like the JP1 pipe. It seems to give the Sportwerks .21 more grunt on take off. I also run Mugen 1.0 springs with standard Mugen carbon shoes. I tried the Mugen teflon shoes but found them to not give me the initial quickness for the jumps.
As far as starter box I use the XTM that was complete with motor and battery. The battery didn't hold a full charge on race day so be conservative with your gel cell battery if you get the XTM box.

Rockman I wanted to thank you taking the time to show us how you shaved your top a arms 2 mm's and changed the diff fluids to a slightly different ratio then I had been experimenting with. So I followed you directions to the letter this week. I had finally found some time to get to the track tonight, and WOW what a difference in steering, It's a new buggy!!! I was continually experimenting with set up and even changed over to the Ackerman a couple of months ago, along with the pro chassis, and was still not happy with the Mayhem, I was about to scrap it and move to something else. However you have changed that, and if anyone else is struggling with the same issue, which if you are an owner of the Mayhem you are, then take this advice, and try it, it works, the most you would be out is a set of front upper A arms if you don't care for the change. Thanks again Rockman.

where the cheapest place to buy this truck be side e-bay???
Mayhem ST 1/8 4WD Truck RTR

RCUANUT,
thanks for the kind words. My next step is to put the ligh vented flywheel on and keep the Mugen 1.0 springs with Mugen carbon shoes. I will change out the front shock to 40 wt oil and the rear shocks to .35 wt.
I am glad the Mayhem is working for you. I swear I am having so much more fun with the buggy. I purchased Soft Panther Komodo Dragon tires to run and this should even more help.
Have fun.
Rockman

How do I install steering ackerman rack on mayhem buggy. Thanks JJAM

If you looked on page 55 you would see that I have posted pictures. Here is website http://community.webshots.com/user/jwrockman
I put the bolt back into the steering arms and threaded the turnbuckle into it and then put on aircraft nylon bolt. I used two shims on inside and 1 shim on outside for control of bump steer. The idea is you want the angle of the turnbuckle to match the angle of a-arms as you move the arms up and down.
Rockman

Thanks Rockmam the information was very helpfull _ JJAM

Let me clarify the shim washer location. I put 2 between the steering arms and the inside turnbuckle and put 1 washer on the outside toward tire between the hub and turnbuckle.
Has anyone else put the shims in differently?
Rockman

what wight diff oil does anybody uses in there mayhem for racing i was told to use 5000f 20000c 7000r

I have used nothing that heavy in the center before, but have considered it when our local track gets slick. I have always played with different combinations from this 5k 10k 3k, I have 5k in the rear to match the front after the weekend and did not have any issues with it. I have also been told that any ratio close to the 5k, 10k, 3k will be a good starting point. Most of my friends with X-Rays, (The luxury buggy). LOL, are running 7k 7k 7k, and they are about the quickest and best handling, at my local track. You just have to get what is comfortable for you and your driving style. With the Mayhem, I have had the most luck with these combinations mentioned above. There is a gentlemen on this forum by the name of Rockman who has had some helpful answers and solutions for myself, when it comes to this particular buggy. Perhaps he can add to this, Good Luck.

I really hope this has not been dicussed in here before, but 56 pages is alot of reading when looking for a single subject. If there is an easier way of finding what I'm looking for please let me know and I'll use it in the future.... Any how I ordered myself a Mayhem ST. The site sugested 20% Maxiy's pro racing fuel a 1/4 of but I did not order this as I though I could get I cheaper from my local. The point being, is this what I can use during running in or is this what I could actually drive with. I have heard that you should use diferant grades of fuel when running in than for actual driving. If this good for running in please let me know and if I can eventually upgrade what can I upgrade to. Also how long should I use the running in grade of fuel. Yeah you probably guessed it I'm n NOOOOOOB and this is my first car. Still wating for the order to be deliverd.
Tell me please what can I expect and will I be dissapointed. I have read a bit in your forum and it does not look this way, Im just really excited and would like to know MOOOOORRRRREEEEE

I never use run in (break in) fuel. I always break in the engine with what I run at the track. O'Donnell 30% with 12% oils. Just be careful and watch your temps. Don't run to rich at first and make sure you spin flywheel after running to bottom dead center to pull piston out of pinch area of sleeve.

As far as diff oil is concerned, I changed to 3f 7c 1r. We have a lot of tight sections on our track and I wanted as much steering into the turn as I could get. I do agree that it is anybodys guess what is the best set up but I may try a thicker center weight, maybe 10k in the future to apply more even power on both ends. I like the lighter weight in the back which I beleive helps with steering.
Who knows the right answer. I would walk around on race day and ask the fastest drivers.
Rockman

OOOOHHHHHH, HHHhhhmmmm, YEeah......... and in english please this is my first time[sm=bananahead.gif]
(not being sarcastic)

Okay, Let's take one item at a time and we will try to help.
What is your first question?

1) What is "spinning" the the flywheel, what does it do and how do you do it?
2)Pulling the piston out of pinch erea? and where in the sleeve is it ?
3)3f 7c 1r ??
4)Thicker center weight? and the 10K bit??

Okay, We will take one at a time.
Questions 1 and 2. Your engine has a sleeve that the piston runs inside of and the sleeve is tapered at the top which gives you pinch and gives you compression. You want to perserve this compression by making sure the piston is at the bottom of the sleeve after the engine stops. To do this you turn the flywheel until you "feel" the piston at the bottom. You know you are there when you can feel the flywheel is easy to turn a little left or right. You can also look down the glow plug hole or from the exhaust side of the engine to find BDC or bottom dead center. I will somtimes make a mark on the flywheel to show me where BDC is without having to feel for it.

Questions 3 and 4. Your buggy has three differentials in it. Front, Center and Rear. The front and rear differentials take the power from the center diff. and turn the axles to the wheels. The center diff. has the spur gear that the clutchbell on the engine turns. You will want to take these out and open them up to clean out the existing diff oil and replace as required by track conditions and/or your driving style. If you notice that your front tires balloon up as compared to the rear tires you will want heavier weight diff oil in the center diff. I run 3000 in front, 7000 in center and 1000 in rear. Ofna, Mugen and Sportwerks make good fluids. Don't use shock oil! What happens is power will go to the wheels with less resistance or without traction. By putting in thicker oil you can control this and get more even power to all wheels. Sportwerks buggies come with fluid in them already so you may want to leave it alone until you start to drive more. By the way, you will only fill the fluid until you cover the X pins that hold the internal diff gears. Look at the manual and you will see what I am talking about.

Have fun and let us know if we can be of more help.
Rockman

Whoo hoo cheers mate and thnx allot I have learnt at least 4 new thing today. Once again thanks for the info will let you know if more is needed.

Well done Rockman, helping in a way that not to many people take the time to do. I attempted to jump in and fill those shoes however, as you can see, failed miserably.

Yes isnt ti bautiful how there are still those who care....he he. Keep up the good work guys thankyou thank you thank you.

[sm=punching.gif] Whoa mamma wil be getting my truck tomorrow can absolutly not wait. Goin' to bed early tonight he he... Say is it possible to put a bigger Fuel tank on the MST, I'm not sure how long you can ride with one tank but I'm pretty sure it wont be long enough... How long is it though? And is it a good idea?

So I got it yesterday. Tried to start it today and it does surprice surprice... Thing is as soon as I take the glowplugdriver off she dies. Is this norm? I turned it on its side and "Fuel" was running, as from an open tap, from the outlet pipe. Again is THIS normal.
ADVICE FRIENDS ADVICE PLEASE BRING IT ON!!!!!

no it seems flooded
before you fire it up you should unscrew the plug
and turn the starter like that , so excess fuel is evacuated
also screw the main needle all in and open again 3,5-4 full turns

Ready to Run motors come from the factory on a very rich setting. You may want to turn the High Speed Needle in about half turn for now to help get it started. The manual will give you the factory settings but I have found that I have had to turn the high speed in to get it started. Don't go over 210 to 220 degrees f at the start but do try to cycle engine for 2 minutes as close to 200 as you can for about 4 tanks.
The break in period of motors takes some time but you will find it worthwhile.