When?
Into corner, in the middle, out of corner?
On power, coasting, going off power, braking?
Tight corners, long corners, chicanes?
Down the straights?
In bumpy parts, in smooth parts?
Type of soil? Hard packed, blue groove, sandy, dusty?
witch tyres? (as they a by far the most important part of the setup)
driving style?
Brake setup?
Clutch setup?
Carb setup? (jup, even carb! it is not good to have a to high idle after WOS-run, because it will push your car)

you see?
there is not a "do this"...
and it is almost impossible to help you without seeing you driving...
Jut one tip: Smooooooooth driving when low grip!
no endpoint to endpoint steering, no throttle or brake slamming, no full lock wheels braking...

I finished putting my 5R together and am having trouble getting it to work with my starter box. Do you have to dremel the flywheel opening a little. I did a search a came up with no answers. thanks

The starter wheel of your box might been worn off.

Dont! dremel the chassis, mod the starter box or get a starter box to suit.

I'm using the Ofna chrome top with no luck. What box works well with the 5R?

Im using the huge hyper box, it works but is a huge box, the Q world small offroad box works well too, and the mugen BII box would work well also

Wow, I can't believe what I just read, Dremeling the chassis on a $600 buggy.

I use the Ofna Truggy box with dual 775 motors and 12v gel cell, $100 with battery, turns over a new v-spec. That a Ofna Chrome top wouldn't I dunno if it was broken or what, but the gel cell in it was fully charged, it would just bog down trying to turn it. Plus the Ofna Truggy box is better, quality, better looking, and has a better chassis positioning system.

I use the Ofna chrome top & love it. you have to set the pins up just right, but it definitely works.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCUC2&P=ML

Dicko, thanks for the info I'll try again getting it set right.

RevoTo The Redline, Maybe you didn't understand my post. Of course my battery is charged, and my box is not broken..... I couldn't get the flywheel to touch the wheel on the box.

Hey Donk, thanks for the explanation of bump steer, that helps a lot

well i have been racing from dune now at a newly built track have done bout 6 races one including the first ever GRP Irish challenge all brilliant fun and loved every minute of it. in the 6 races i have taken part in i have goten inot the C final once and the A final 5 times the best ever result for me was last sunday i managed to finish 6th overall in the A final darkness fell rather quick and i couldnt see the far of the track an went of the table top by the end of the race.

i have included a picture of the track has a table top step up juump and a set of doubles and a fe wother bumps and smalll jumps around it. since the picture it has had astro turf on most of the jumps and are currently working on a banked corner.

the last race was very clay like as was raining the whole week before. i had a big problem as did others with tyres i was running hoboa angles/directionals but they where caking up with mud creating little to no traction meaning had to be careful on the throttle i had a look round and eveyr one seemed to have the same problem.

i would of expected the muck to fly of the tyres while the car is moving but a slong as it was damp it was sticking like glue.

any one have any tips in this suituation? or any other tyres to try out.
thanks adam

spraying the tires with WD40 helps to fling sticky mud off. also a widely spaced spike tire like the Advantage Splinter works well in muddy conditions.

Acctually in mud u want a tire with a very small pin tread,i usually use holeshots or inside jobs.The mud does not stick to the tire as there is nowhere for it to pack into.WD-40 would be good if it didnt fly off the tire as soon as you rev the car Baby powder works very well for keeping mud from sticking to the tire but it will only last so long...

they guys at the track said not to use small pikes or short paced spikes as they will get built up in no time one guy tryed a set of very spaced out spikes but it still stuck like glue.

i might try the wd 40 thing or try and check what else would keep it of will do some reserch.
cheers
adam

I have used the ofna crome top with mbx5 with no luck. The opening on the mbx5 is to small for the WIDE rubber wheel on the ofna box. The best one I have found is the mugen starter box. It has a narrow wheel that works great. Also it is very lite and strong.

i have an mbx5r and use a RD Logics box and have no problems

i use the smd high tourgue twin moor starter box really small nice colour and lite

i was wondering if any of U.S guys have heard any talk of a mugen mbx6 being realised january next year? heard a rumour but us uk dudes r always last to no.
thanks
adam

i heard they are releasing a new buggy next year, but i haven't heard a date.

Will the 5R shocks work on a Prospec or do i need to have the 5R shock towers also?

Yes, you will need the shock towers or you will loose negative suspension travel.

Space them out yourself:

First time at the track today. I'm using the stock setup and the rear of the car was extremely loose. It handled great except for wanting to steer from the back end. Any suggestions?

had a race today also i had same problem but was down to tyre choice and was running in mud thats was a good idea donk23 i tryed it out worked a bit better for longer but at the end still wasnt able to shake of all the mud was sticking like clue still especially in the A final the tyres after the race musta weighed about 3 time smore with all the muck sticking to them. but was brill idea should benifet me in heats.

also kyjoe340 could try a thicker rear diff oil

im no expert my self so lets wait and here what some other guys think.
later
adam

Jep....give more info!!!
When was the car loose?!

i can only repeat myself:
When?
Into corner, in the middle, out of corner?
On power, coasting, going off power, braking?
Tight corners, long corners, chicanes?
Down the straights?
In bumpy parts, in smooth parts?
Type of soil? Hard packed, blue groove, sandy, dusty?
witch tyres? (as they a by far the most important part of the setup)
driving style?
Brake setup?
Clutch setup?
Carb setup? (jup, even carb! it is not good to have a to high idle after WOS-run, because it will push your car)

A loose rear when breaking needs other adjustments the a loose rear when accelerating!
mostly its the driver , second mostly inadequate tyres, third mostly inadequate build of car (clutch/servo linkage/radio setup/...), in the unlikeliest case its the setup itselve....

Donk23,

I'm using the stock build setup. The car mostly got loose coming out of tight corners. Everything else was great, off power steering, bumps, jumps etc. The track was very loose but other cars weren't having this problem. The car does not push at all.

Before you say it's the driver.....I've been racing a while and this isn't my first buggy. My last buggy didn't do this and I'm sure it can be adjusted out, I'm just not familiar with the Mugen yet.

things to try out:
rear upper shock one hole more inward
shorter wheelbase
at rear upper arm use inside hole at upright (shorter rear upper arm, adjust camber to -2 degrees afterwards when arms are level)
use zero toe on front when arms are level
try 3000 rear diff oil (rear feels more predictable and less snappy)
lower rear end by 2mm

what we try to do is to get more weight/pressure/traction on the rear end when accelerating.
if this does not help we need to decrease front traction...
but first try things above-mentioned...