I've only seen 1 MBX5 with that part in ali. most people don't bother replacing it as it adds too much weight & is more of a downgrade in terms of racing. I have no idea who made it either. it'd be somewhere on this thread.

Thanks,

Yea Iam always in for more poooooower ! ! ! ! [>:]

Simple green works like a charm. Its chemical free.

I run JR Z8800's and iam very pleased with there outputs..

Z8800T Digital High-Torque Surface Specs
Type: High-Torque Digital Servo
Torque: 155 oz/in @ 4.8V, 188 oz/in @ 6V
Speed: .18 sec/60° @ 4.8V, .15 sec/60° @ 6V
Dimensions (WxLxH): .75" x 1.54" x 1.36"
Weight: 2.0 oz
Bearing: Dual output
Motor Type: Coreless
Gears: Metal


Z8800S Digital High-Speed Surface Specs
Type: High-Speed Digital Servo
Torque: 88 oz/in @ 4.8V, 105 oz/in @ 6V
Speed: .10 sec/60° @ 4.8V, .08 sec/60° @ 6V
Dimensions (WxLxH): .75" x 1.54" x 1.36"
Weight: 2.0 oz
Bearing: Dual output
Motor Type: Coreless
Gears: Metal

Where can I get a good crowdpleazer custom lidz!!

Hey JustinWZP,
When you get a chance i'd like to c a pic of that!

if you adjust Brake endpoint you can fix this problem quite easily.
make the endpoint just short of flexing the chassis or servo tray.
it will not effect the brake efficiensy

if you adjust the brake endpoint to stop short of flexing the serco tray you will fix the problem.
i will not affect brake efficency

Please help!

I'm having trouble attaching the steering uprights to the upper and lower arms...there's about 1/4" of the screw thread still showing, but there is alot of resistance, so i'm afraid if i force it, i'll strip the head... has anyone encountered this problem or have any suggestions?

Thanx in advance!

sounds like it may be cross threaded...

They are supposed to be very tight, a regular aluminum handle hex wrench wont do it, i always use an hex wrench socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet to put in the pivot ball caps the first time. Once they are tightened the first time, then they will be easier adjust.

Do them up a bit, then back them out & clear out any excess plastic, then do them up some more etc until you get all the way in. They are supposed to be tight, but tapping them in & backing them out helps.

I was wondering...when you make the notch in the CV pin for the grub screw to sit in...which Dremel bit do you use? Also, does anyone have pix they can post of theirs with heat shrink over it? It would be helpful to see what it looks like... Thanx!

I put the pin in a vice and use the dremel large cutting wheel; this works so I do not need or use shrink tape.

is there a trick to mark where you make the notch in the pin? or do you just eyeball the center?

you can dummy build the CV joint, when you do up the grub screw it will mark the pin, then you know where to cut. I also blunt the tip of the grub screw so it has a larger contact surface on the pin and use GOOD thread lock, not cheap duratrax stuff. buy the real deal.

ok...will do! thanx for the tip on blunting the end of the grub screw! (did you use the same dremel wheel as the one to make the notch in the pin?)
oh, i use the tamiya blue lock-tite per advice from the forums! it seems to hold well...however, the tube is oozing from the neck so there's constantly a dried blue blob on the side!

I put the grub screw on a hex key & rub it up & down on a fine file or sand paper lying flat on a table/bench. that way you don't destroy the thread when trying to hold the screw, it doesn't take much to rub the end flat.

ahhh...that makes sense! i'm definately going to do that to the grub screws!

btw...do you use a LiPo battery pack? i've heard so much about avoiding 'cheap batteries', so i'm wondering if you have any recommendations?

I use a venom 1400mAh pack & top it between each race. I know guys that do use LiPo, but I haven't had a need to yet, or had the spare cach to buy one & the voltage regulator to go with it.

I'm about to order this battery pack: Venom 6V 1600mAh NiMH Hump Receiver Battery
It's a 2x3 and has a 'universal receiver' connector...my rx is an airtronics mx3 fhss ... will this pack work?