is there much difference between the hyper 8 roller and 8.5 roller?

Not a lot but there is enough to make a good bit of difference in handling. The 8.5 is a longer chassis 2mm front and 2mm rear. It all so comes with some hop ups that needed to be added on the 8 like center diff brace and longer engine mounts to cut down on chassis flex. There are some other things as well but those are the main things If all you do is bash no big deal but if you race the 8.5 pro is MUCH better. I have both the 8 pro and 8.5 pro. Have not run them in about 10 months as I have been racing large scale.

I have changed low end screw in the engine as described before.
Now I have a different problem with it. I can't start the engine.
Could you tell me what is the standard and YOUR prefered setting in .21 8 port engine???
I have tried as in the manuals but no result.

Also...
What do you prefer pullstard of starter box??? I think I will gonna change my to pull couse I have enough the box.
With it I can't feel the engine working just before the ignition as in my other cars with the pull.
Would you agree with me???
Cheers....

If you do not like the starter box you are going to hate a pull starter! I use a starter box on both mine. Do you prime the engine before trying to start it when it is cold of after setting for a while or after running out of fuel? Other then factory settings which is just a place to start with there is no way to say what yours will end up being. Weather, altitude and so will affect tune. Many times it will change during the day do to weather changes including but not limited to temperature.

Best thing to do is set to factoring settings and retune.

Hiya,

I've converted a second-hand Hobao Hyper 8 to brushless, but I need a pinion for the motor. Does anyone know what Mod the spur gear for the Hyper 7/8/8.5 is? It's bigger than Mod 0.8, but is it 1.0, 1.5...?

Also, to anyone who is running a brushless Hyper, what would be good gearing to get around 55-60mph? I'm not sure how many teeth the spur gear has though. How many teeth should I be looking for on the pinion, round abouts? I'm running 6s w/ the MMM 2200 combo.


Cheers for any help, and sorry for the (sort of) vague questions!

I'm gonna try and break 80mph eventually. Theres a vid of an RC8 reaching 100mph, but that was with the 2650kv motor.

I just counted the spur, and its 46T. I'll try and work out the speed using the calculator, but i know it's been way off in the past

Pinion Speed
10T 39.73 mph
11T 43.70 mph
12T 47.68 mph
13T 51.65 mph
14T 55.62 mph
15T 59.60 mph
16T 63.57 mph
17T 67.54 mph
18T 71.52 mph
19T 75.49 mph
20T 79.46 mph
21T 83.43 mph
22T 87.41 mph
23T 91.38 mph
24T 95.35 mph
25T 99.33 mph

I think i'll buy a 17T pinion, seems like the best bet.

Hiya,

My converted Hyper 8 is nearly done. I just need to do 3 more things.

1: Find a suitable place to mount the MMM

2: Find somewhere to mount the antenna

3: Find a body that will fit

Here are some pics so far:









The only 2 real options where I can mount the MMM is either above the center diff, but I think it's too high up and will be susceptible to damage.
The only alternative is to zip-tie/velcro it to the mudguard, but it's just a piece of plastic secured to the chassis by 3 little screws and I'm wondering if placing it there will be even less safe than high up.

In the last picture you can see how much the body is being deformed by the batteries etc, and I'm just wondering if there is another body that is higher? It's only got 2 mounting posts, so I guess that rules out any truck bodies.


Many, many thanks for any advice offered!

Very nice work guys. I know electric is instant torque very fast but a electric RC is like watching Star Wars with the sound turned off to me. LOL PS your pictures are to big.

I have pull on HPI savage and it is brill. Problem with box is: annother thing to carry to the track. Also if I'm tuning or testing the engine is going flat - eventualy!!! Then the game is over. Sometime it is soo flustrating.
I'm just finding this engine veird. Once set up is great, little bit later (the same day) I'm trying and nothing for long time... this is not right!!!
I will try again this weekend. If the story will repeat I don't know what I will do with it.
Any advice what I'm doing wrong??????

When I go to the track my car is so full of parts and pit items I cannot get another person in it and I do not have a small car. I have a race Savage that is built for racing and I use to use a pull starter but my pit man spent more time trying to start it then I did on the track so now I use a Roto Starter. Wish I could use a starter box on it. Never seen a pro racer using a pull starter as well as you have the drag of a one way bearing robbing a small amount of HP. If you have problems starting it a pull starter is only going to make it worse. But if that is what you want go for it.

It is not unusually to have to retune an engine during a day at the track. Any weather change can affect the tune on a glow plug fuel engine. One thing I do to all my engines before I ever run them is seal the engine. Possible you have a air leak?

If I where to run an electric buggy this is what I would get.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id=20796

hiya,

i just bought a mod1 14T pinion for my converted hyper 8, but theres a terrible grinding sound between the pinion and the center diff, and theres a lot of friction. They are both mod1, so shouldnt they mesh? i've set the mesh correctly and there is a fair bit of play in between the gears. I dont know what else to do?


any help greatly appreciated!

Do both the gears have the same gear pitch?

Can you list all the parts you used (had to buy) for the conversion
I'm considering converting my 8 vs. getting a new 9e

tia

Are you using the two 3s lipos in parallel or series?

yes lol they are both mod1. the only parts i used to convert it were the RCM motor mount and battery tray.

the lipos are wired in series.

i made a quick vid of it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmGkZ0K2cfw

i think these guys have figured out the problem:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25056

My center diff keeps on leaking, that orange band excuse for a seal pops out either after the screws are tightened completely or after running a few laps and then I notice tiny bits of fluid leaking all the time which after a whole day of racing drains the whole diff.

What should I do to fix this

I have over 10 gallons on my Hyper 8 and about 4 on my 8.5 and never had a problem with leaking on any of my diffs. I do replace the seals about every 5th time I go into them. Are you sure it is the o-ring under the crown gear ro the ones on the out put shafts?

I have so much RC stuff I am going to sell my Hyper 8 pro as a roller with some NICE up grades.

Hey man your pretty close but not quiet on the money, if you want a speed demon buggy you almost have everything you need first you need to drop that 2200KV and move up to the 2650KV motor, run 6S and use 25/43 gearing with a locked center diff i just did this same set up on my losi eight buggy last week and im pulling 104 MPH under the radar gun consitantly for about 10 passes with out any heating issues what so ever and then the low voltage cut off kicks in. I started trying out the lipos from hobby city the turnigy packs and have had NO PROBLEMS WHAT SO EVER and the car runs great best part is there dirt cheap 58 dollars for a 4000MAH 6S 30C pack you can't beat that. BTW the 43T spur gear is made by losi.

here is a pic of my 104 MPH buggy, i know this is the HPYER 8 thread but if im not mistake the internal gear ratios in the diffs on both buggies are the same so you should get the same resaults asuming your drivetrain is smooth as glass!!!

If anyone is interested, I have a Hyper 8 pro with a good modded engine for sale. Comes with two good servos, a set of race tires, custom painted body(glow in the dark on half of it) a starter box(includes battery, so no need to run off a 12V source) and a chassis panel so it fits really snug every time. It's built, in good condition and ready to run with just a receiver and battery. PM me, I can send pics, more info, etc...

It is the orange o-ring (in the center diff 6 bevel gears) that stays visible after you screw everything up (not laterally )

Whats a good right height front and back for hyper? I've mine set at: front= 28mm and rear=36mm
What weight do you run in your diffs?

Like I said never had a problem with mine leaking and I use to change my diff oil after every two weekends of racing. A lot of variables in set ups. As far as ride height I ran mine where the A arms where not quite horizontal pointing down a little around 33mm give or take. Diff oil would vary on track conditions but a good start is front 5k, center 7k and rear 2k or that is what I used as a base line.

Do you run 7k center in the 6 gear spider diff or is it the regular diff w/ 4 gears?

I am running the standard diff. Now it has 6 years in if you count the 2 on the out put shafts. but on the cross pins it only has 4. I prefer the standard diff.