pull the pull starter off and pull the one way out and spray it down with some wd40. that should fix it

thanks nik77356 ill try this

For a real quick fix, pull the starter out a little bit and spray rc electric motor spray or automotive brake clean through the rope hole. This will clean the OWB.

It is better to remove the starter and clean the OWB but, when your out this works in a hurry!

yep thats what i done with CRC

QUOTE
foxy42
Yes. I would also recommend a higher percentage of nitro. Get yourself some 25% and start the break in process again (you won't have to do so many tanks this time though, don't worry), return to factory settings, run one tank at idle. If it doesn't get very hot (over 200 needed), then lean it a bit and repeat the process. After the first tank which reaches 200+ let it cool (with the piston at BDC) and then start it up again. this time put it on the ground and run around at medium throttle, again looking to get the temps up over 200. After 3 or 4 tanks of this, you can start tuning. It won't take long.
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yo Mark, make sure ya using 200F not Celcius dude! if ya engine gets to 200C it means trouble!

yep fanx for that Damo, I had no heat gun but let the eng get to a temp where a bit of spit on the eng whould slowly sizzle,idont know but that was good enough for me Ha, she will go till she blowslive for the moment

The spit test is a good test, it works. Above 300 (danger area) the spit will sizzle very violently. Temp guns are not expensive you should invest in one. I'm very pleased with my HPI one, it's good for a 'non-calibrated, non-professional' tool.

this is my 1st post, on this website, and I am hoping to be able to contribute as well as get answers, I have been into rc vehicles for almost 3 years now I have approx 8 or 9 rc vehicles, depending on the status of my sons. I will update my profile when I have some time, I have an important matter regarding my Hyper 7 PCR .
When I put the buggy on the starter box, and start the buggy, my clutch engages and the wheels spin, with the flywheel? I have to jam a screw driver down in between the diff and clutch bell to keep it from spinning, a few times it has then some how worked correctly? I picked this buggy up of ebay, a few years back, and have just recently begun to run it again. when i got it it was very clean, but seemed like there was something odd about it, I swear, i would be driving it and it would run and drive forward then it would just kind of buckle, and then stop moving, engine would continue to run, then when back on throttle it would move BACKWARDS!!! I told the guys at my LHS, and they just nodded their heads, and smiled.... \I dont know if they were trying to hold back the laughs,or the bull&%* remarks, but i am being honest, I have removed the clutch bell, and I cannot tell if the springs and shoes are correct, the car didnt include a manual, my yokomo gt4s, has the Centax, all others have only two shoes and one spring that latches to itself around the shoes and the clutch nut, for the buggy there are three small springs inside the shoes, is it possible the clutch shoes are installed backwards, or the springs are installed wrong, or do they need adjusted or are they simply worn out? can i remove the springs off the clutch shoes, or are they somehow, installed wrong? oR do i have to add some shims to the inside of the clutch bell???
any advice would be great, or if I am totally off base please let me know, thank you in advance...

your clutch bearings are bad or your shoes are melted to the clutch bell

Oh dear!
Firstly get yourself to the OFNA website where you can download the manual for your car. That will help.
It sounds like you may have a dodgy spring in your clutch. Does the engine stall when you use the brakes or just come to a halt? I would be tempted to buy new shoes and springs and install them yourself.
As for the buggy running backwards I have heard accounts before but never when the engine is still running. Usually it has been when the engine has restarted, and even then I think the last time I heard anything like that was a year or so ago. It might be worth searching around on here as I don't have an answer for the backwards thing
Try [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1341817/anchors_1344518/mpage_1/key_engine%252Crunning%252Cbackwards/anchor/tm.htm#1344518]here[/link] for a start I got one fore you.

The clutchshoes, arent melted, when i took the clutch bell off, the three shoes, are still there, with their respective springs, so, yeah the clutch bearing could be bad hunh, if its not freespinning, i guess that would be it, wow, asimple few dollar repair there, I am sure i have an extra bearing of that size. at 1st i was actually hoping that the clutch shoes were melted at least It would have let me known exactly what was wrong, but it never occured to me that the bearing could be be seized. but after thinking about it, it would be thank you for such a quick reply, I should have posted this questions months ago. what about the buggy going into reverse? can the engine run, spinning the opposite way

yes it can if started that way. or what can happens is that the engine fires too early on one stroke and it spins the crank the other way. lots o stress on the conrod. normally happens when starting up

thank you all, my 1st post has had a very plesent outcome, as I am sure i will be here for many gallons of fuel..

hey rclego, you might have started the engine up in reverse. it's happened to me once when i had the buggy turned the wrong way on the box and had the starter wheel on the wrong side too. it started the engine up, but it was moving backwards.

i have a hyper 7 tq rtr and the back brakes slide around to much i was wondering how to adjust or fix that i kno it only has sway bars in the rear but id just like it to come to a stop quicker any help apperciated

hey guys, im a littel late on this, but thanks fro the compliments on my body i painted. and yes i painted it. they are not stickers. lol. it was my first paintjob though. i used a paint mask. but thanks fro the compliments =].

^^^^ any one can help about brake situation?

can you rephrase it? i cant understand it but id like to help

Try to adjust the collar closer to the brake arm. The collar is on the linkage from the servo, the closer to the brake arm it is the more braking you will have. Also add a small piece of fuel tubing between the collar and the brake arm, this should be done for front and rear.

Adjust the brakes so they brake more on the front. You'll see there are two braking arms. One for the front, one for the back. Adjust them, play around with them, you'll get the idea.

alright thanks guys got it

[8D]hi . i am buying a ofna hyper 7 pcr not the pro but i was wondering if the gear boxe's are the same as the other hyper 7's and the rest of the part's like body and if the cvd's and stuff like that ? just wondering if i need to replace anything lol . please lmk . thank's for the help . p.s. i asked for pic's and this is a real pcr .

[8D]hi . i can not find the manual on ofna.com for the hyper 7 pcr or the hyper 7 pcr pro doe's anyone have one that they can e-mail me a copy of or give me a link to a place where i can find one ? just lmk . thank's for the help .

bump

where can i get the manual for the hyper 7 pcr pro .. i tryed ofna site...