Save your money and buy a quart of cheap ATF. Find yourself a smaller bottle to transfer it to so you can apply it easily. Cost effective vs. buying tiny little bottles of ARO.

ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid?

A nitro engine cost how much and a little bottle of after run oil cost how much and it last a LONG time? I rather buy a $3 bottle of ARO knowing I have the right stuff for my high dollar engine then take a chance on something else.

Yes.

Heck you can use regular engine oil if you like, still will work just fine. ATF works good because it's high detergent and burns off easier.

Does ATF have the moister absorbing properties after run oil has? You do not only want to coat the engine with oil but you want something that absorbs moister. If I did not use ARO I would use Marvel Mystery air tool oil.

My ARO is $5 for a quart, how much is your ATF?

I have 3 different brand of after run oil and ALL say they REPEL moisture not absorb, same as wd-40. While I have never stored an egine for more then 6 months I have never had an issue with wd-40 gumming up or attracting lots of crud. ALL oils will attract crud if crud is present which it should not be for long term storage. In my first post remember I said wd OR after run. I have no personal experience with ATF or ARO, I have actually never heard of ARO. All I meant to say is after run oil is fine but WD-40 will work also. Just remember I have never stored longer than 6months so wd could do what they say for longer periods of storage. One thing for sure is that ANY of these choices are better than not doing anything at all.

I wouldn't want anything that absorbs moisture and keeps it in the engine. I'm not the nobel prize winner of oil knowledge but as far as I know oil and water don't ever mix.

That's why flushing the engine with WD-40 to get rid of any trace of moisture is good. I am not talking a few drops here, I mean flushing it.
After that pretty much any light tool oil or similar will do the job. I've used WD-40 + ATF oil for ages and never got any rust or any other problems ever.

BTW if your insisting on WD-40, forget it, GT80 is a better option that wont gum up over time and is a little cheaper.

I just pulled a printer's press head out of storage, it was covered in WD 40, and sat for about 4 years inside a box. The WD 40 is NOT gooey, in fact, it looks exactly the same as when I put it in there. So WD 40 WILL work just fine. Also, looking at the label on my fuel, it says "DO NOT USE AFTER RUN OILS, MORGAN FUEL CONTAINS A RUST INHIBITOR, AND AN ANTI-OXIDANT FOR RESTING ENGINES"

AFO is USELESS when you use good fuel.

If your fuel contains nitro.....which I think you'll find it does....then all the chemicals added just detract from performance and add up to more heat due to the friction they cause.

Funny, I've been racing with it for 3 years now...works just fine, and no corrosion.

My ARO is $5 for a quart, how much is your ATF?

Don't waste your money on Snake Oil, just use better fuel.

Your maintenance policymay work in your climate, but not here.

My Climate? Are you planning to store your motors out doors?

What's the current temp there today in Florida, because here in Scotland right now it's -4'C, now as you run the car around it get's hot and the air it draws in contains moisture (am I loosing you here) cooler air naturally contains more moisture, this when the engine is stoped condenses within the engine, it comes in through the exhast and air filter, this is a BAD thing, plus having the aggroscopic nitro in there is just helping it attract more, so I use ARO and my engines are nice and shinney inside. If your relying on detergents in your fuel, well good luck but Iwouldn't.

ummm...hot air contains more moister than cold air there smart one.

Cold air almost always contains less water than hot air

In last weekind, i go with my friends to play our little toys, and the temp outside was about 10-15, and a breeze air, oh man, it was so cold. However, i didn't bring my car (i was the cameraman ), the others try to start their engines. Some engines start but their racing performance was so poor (problems with tuning, the temps of the engines were at most 100 celcious. Other engines did not start at all. Oh man, the air temp is a MAIN "engine not pull" matter. I was happy that i didn't bring mine out there. I store my nitro cars for the summer now and i keep my big scale stand by

Back to the books for you.

The measure of the water vapour content in the atmosphere is called humidity. All air contains some water vapour but the amount varies greatly. Warm air can hold more water vapour than cold air. As a result, when the humidity is high, the weather is humid. When the humidity is low, the weather is dry.

The point here is really that the moisture in air condenses when you drop the temperature. There you go smart one.

If you are going to store your engine make sure you clean the engine inside and out and do that in the same air temp that it is going to be stored in. If you maintain a steady temperature in and around the engine after it is free of fuel, moisture should not condense inside the engine, since it happens with a temp. change.

dude...when its hotter there is more moister. think of a can of pop...its colder than the air around it..so the heat cause it to condense making condensation on the can......soo wouldnt there be more moister in hot air than there is in cold air? yes the can is not going to make as mch condensation in cold weather as it would if u had it outside on a hot summer day.