Hey guys, i want to ask you what are you doing if you want to keep your nitro engines for some months? I know that the nitro-fuel after a period of time becomes some jelly kind (hard thing)

Run all fuel out, and after engine dies keep trying to start a couple more times to make sure no fuel is left. pull air filter and glo-plug and give a couple of shots WD-40 or after run oil in both the glo hole and down the carb and replace plug and filter and you should be good to go. Remember that alcohol attracts moisture so try to keep inside house if possible, rust shouldnt be an issue if WD-40 is used as I said but why take chances. Use compressor or something to blow crap out from around glo hole before pulling plug out to avoid crap in engine.

WD 40? Are you sure?

Yes sir, WD-40 stands for water dispersant # 40( it took them 39 failures to come up with one that worked and the 40 just stuck), and Traxxas actually says to use it in their manuals for T-Maxx and I believe it still does for Revo also. I have used it for years and not one engine has had a spec of rust when torn down for rebuild or maintenance.

Hairball speaks the truth, water in motor = BAD!

Of course and i know that water is bad. How do you think i cleaning my models? I use minimum a whole WD 40 for each buggy But i'm afraid to use WD 40 IN THE ENGINE

Marvell's mystery oil works great & a pint cost a couple of bucks at any hardware store. Automatic transmission fluid works as well. Always run the car out of fuel the last tank of the day, put a few drops of oil in & turn the motor over a few times. For long term storage (over the winter) clean the motor with motor spray & add about 15-20 drops of oil & put the whole motor in a zip-lock bag with all the air sucked out. (I aslo save those little moisture desicator packs that come in almost every thing electronic that we buy. Throw one of those in the zip-lock with the motor to attract any moisture still in the bag.)

No *****, the only thing we agree on, but WD40 is not advisable for long term storage, ARO is the only real option as it's what it is designed to do. WD40 is a short term tool eventually that goes to a tacky mush too.

Yeah, i agree. I never use WD 40 IN the engine. I only use WD 40 for the outside of the engine. Also, is the first time i want to store some engines for a long time due to the army i must go (yeah, the ***** every cypriot must do, God, where are you?). However, i hear something bad about the after run oil. In some cases instead of keeping the engine safe, it doing the opposite and doing it worst [&o]

????

+1 on ATF.

Thanks for the help Da Smack, we all appreciate it...

As for long term storage, WD40 will keep most of the water off, and corrosion is a big factor, so yes it will work...but, storing it submerged in an oil of some sort will be more effective.

I'm a little confused with all those posts right now. So, what EXACTLY i must do to prevent corosion for my engine? Simple and easy answer please...

Afterrun oil - store in a dry place.

What Da Smak said. Use WD-40 to get rid of moisture and then use ARO (ATF oil works just as well).

There's nothing more to it.

Ok, thanks. I'll use Afterun oil.

Oh, and how many drops i must put?

As many as it needs to coat the internal parts, I keep mine in a spray bottle so that when I squirt it in (with the backplate off) it spreads more evenlyof if the engines still in the car then it's 4 rounds of 5 drops down the carb, plug out and spin the engine till my finger gets wet.

As many as it needs to coat the internal parts, I keep mine in a spray bottle so that when I squirt it in (with the backplate off) it spreads more evenly or if the engines still in the car then it's 4 rounds of 5 drops down the carb, plug out and spin the engine till my finger gets wet then refit the plug. Leave the engine at BDC, freshly oiled air filter on and blank up the exhaust. No chance of moisture damage then.

You'll never catch me putting WD40 in a mill. Not as long as they are selling ARO in shops. WD may disperse water, but it attracts all kinds of other muck too. Da Smak is dead right about long term, WD is not good, it would turn into a gummy mess within a month or so. Osiris, after-run oil and store in a dry (not too cold) place.
Personally, I put 5 fat drops in through the plug hole, give it a quick spin on the starter, 5 more drops in the plug hole, one more quick spin. 5 drops in the carb, open and close the carb a few times. Job done.

Both bottles of after run oil that I've got (2 different brands) have got a warning on them that says 'Do not put down the carb as may cause o-ring damage' (or similar.....not sure of exact wording as I'm at work).

What's the go with that?

May or may not be true, they say don't take more than 2 aspirin at once, but I'm nearly 2m tall and 95kilos, so I sometimes take 3. What I'm saying is it may depend on the ARO and the carb in question, manufacturers often make unnecessary statements to protect themselves. My model technics ARO doesn't have such a warning on it, and I don't think the HPI stuff I have does either. Also, I don't see how it can get to my o-rings... I don't stick it in the fuel line or needle tubes, straight down the carb throat. It's how I was taught nearly 15 years ago when I got my first nitro, and I've never questioned it.

I never mentioned using WD-40, nor would I, unless it was a really mucky track and I was spraying it over the chassis to make it easier to clean after racing.

In that case then simply remove the carb and the 2 throat O-rings from your engine and then apply the oil. But I use Model Technics ARO and that has no such warning and has never affected my seals.

Interesting. I might see what the LHS has in stock and see if theirs carries the same warnings as the stuff I've already got. It seemed really odd to me that someone would produce an after run oil that was potentially damaging to rubber o-rings, but it was all I could get where I used to live at the time.

I never use WD 40 as others are correct it displaces moister where after run oil absorbs it. I do believe where they say not to put after run oil down the carb they mean not in the fuel nipple as it will make the o-rings on the needles swell but putting it down the venture will not hurt. I have been putting after run oil down the venture for years with out a problem.