It actually all depends on the current dew point. If the object (in this case the can) is colder than the dew point, moisture will condensate on the object.
If it's warmer than the dew point, moisture will not condensate.

That's all there is to it.

[link=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dew_point]Dew Point - click me.[/link]

AZ desert - hot as h*** and bone dry.

kianda p155es on your theory.

warm air has the ability to contain more moisture than cold. That doesn't mean under every condition. Think of a cold winter morning with a fog so thick you can't see. That fog is moisture and at a very high volume. Now think of being in Las Vegas where it can be 100% and such a low moisture content your mouth dries out like a piece of leather. Still the point here is how do you store your engine for a long period safely.

It's been said numerous times already. Clean it good inside and out, oil it well and put it in a ziplock bag.

The dewpoint in Florida will almost always be higher than the dewpoint in Scotland. Florida's air is hotter, it contains more moisture. Cold air can't hold as much water as warm air, it's a simple meteorological fact. Having a hot engine sitting in cold air is no big deal. When the cold air is warmed up by the engine, the relative humidty will drop like a rock.

thats what i was trying to say.....

My original statement stands, if you use decent fuel, ARO is useless. Please, Da Smack, we all know your methods work for you. So if you want to waste your $$ on Snake Oil, go right ahead... If in some fantasy world of yours, cooler temps mean your engine will corrode, then by all means, put AFO in it to keep it safe... [&:]

OK my two cents is that I have always used ARO and I have never had rust in an engine, people can debate all they want but the results are negligable.

The condensation your talking about has a lot to do with relative humidity and temperature differences. If somthing is hot in a cold environment it will repell water because the air around it will be thinnner due to the heat and vise-versa for somthing that is cold in a hot environment, give there is enough humidity in the air, thats it.
Hot=expands Cold=contracts

So is this a discussion about how much moisture air contains or how to store an engine for a period of time?

Actually it's a bonus thread. You get three subjects in one: Engine storage, moisture, and WD-40. The spread of WD-phobia amazes me.

It all depends on air pressure as to how much moisture the air contains. low pressure = low moisture due to the fact there are less air/water molecules per cubic measurement.
Therefore a place at sea level will have much more moisture than say mexico city at the same temperature.
On the engine care front, I run my engine dry and if I use it again soon i don't bother with ARO. if however I may not use it for a while I add ARO.

It's all about air pressure and elevation? No way. Temperature plays a huge role. Compare the moisture content of the air in Barrow, Alaska (sea level) to the higher elevation tropical climate of Columbia. You'll see.

LOL. WD 40(I dont think) gets gummy after a long time of sitting in the engine. I personaly use the gasser type 2 stroke oil for my engines and they all last a while except for the VX-18 I had. ATF seems to be the better of them all. Also, if you run certan fuels check the bottle, I run the sidewinder mix and it has ARO in it and says NOT to use it after running.

I didn't say temperature had nothing to do with it. I was explaining why one hot place can have drier air than another place at the same temperature
The temperature of the air does affect the amount of water the air holds, but the actual amount depends on pressure

I missed the temperature comment in your original post, sorry. I'd agree pressure is relevant in all of this, but a pressure difference between two air masses of equal temperature won't tell you which one will be holding more moisture. Besides, the two locations being compared in this thread probably aren't going to have a substantial difference in elevation.

Oh, oh. The thread is becoming more and more offtopic of the thread's name I have a table which shows the tuning on your engine in those situations

Well I don't want to go into the details but there are loads of factors affecting air pressure, not least that the nearer to the poles you are the lower the pressure due to the atmosphere being thinner. So longitude is important to along with numerous other factors. florida is SUBSTANTIALLY nearer the equator than Scotland which is much nearer the poles.
Couple that along with the picture below showing mean water vapour levels and look closely where Scotland and florida are and you may well have to retract that statement.
Just remember air pressure and weather systems are more complex than you could possibly imagine even within (relatively) small areas such as a US state.

This topic went over board in a big way. LOL

Don't forget the moon, it has a huge effect on the climate too.

[sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif] Oh dude, you make me laugh for good, Jesus...oh...oh...my heart...

Do what I wrote above following will not matter::::
Your air temp
Your relative humidity
Your elevation
Your global grid coordinates
Your barametric pressure
Your anual rain fall
Your astrological sign
Your local tide hight
The position of the moon.
Ohh, I forgot global warming.

Are you sure!? I'm starting to believe what I've been doing for 18 years without problems is wrong!

It went from asking about engine maintnace to air pressure and anual rain fall . Also the air, humiddity, and normal engine temp ALWAYS changes. so there is no perfect day to day settings. If we could keep them all the same from day to day then our engines would last longer then avrage. And in that chart, when the air is cold shouldent you lean it and if its hot richen it?

And your motor would come pre-tuned from the factory with no needles.

Just trying to end the meteorology discussion.