Engine troubles
#1
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From: Lebanon, OR
Hi all, looking for assistance with an engine issue, Ihave a 1/5 Recat MT with a CY 26cc "Fuelie" that is maybe a month old, engine runs like a champ, and Idecided to add a big bore kit that Ipurchased from DDM, and after adding the kit now the engine wont start at all, Ihave spark, Ihave compression, no leaks, everything is put in correctly, the carb is still in its factory settings. I put the original equpment back on and it fires right up and runs great. So what am Imissing? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.</p>
#2
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See that gasoline supply is "on".
Check to see that the gasoline in the tank is high enough to flow to the carburetor.
Make sure that the carburetor float is not stuck and that there is a definite flow of gasoline to the carburetor.
Determine whether main oil tank contains a sufficient quantity or lubricating oil
Remove front set of spark plugs and test compression of each cylinder.
Check to see that the gasoline in the tank is high enough to flow to the carburetor.
Make sure that the carburetor float is not stuck and that there is a definite flow of gasoline to the carburetor.
Determine whether main oil tank contains a sufficient quantity or lubricating oil
Remove front set of spark plugs and test compression of each cylinder.
#3
The tank is mounted on the vehicle in an optimum position. There is no carb float, it is a ZAMA carb with a diaphram pump, there is no "main oil tank" the engine uses premix. There is only one plug on this engine. Are you aware of what the original post is talking about???
#4
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Hi all, i'm having some engine troubles so i'm continuing this thread.
I have the Gs storm RTR with BO3 engine, i have confirmed that the main crank bearing has disintegrated.
My question is how do i remove the crank and piston arm from the crank, I need to remove them to get access to the bearing.
Thank you in advance
#5
Pull the cylinder liner out which gives you enough space to slide the connecting rod off the crank pin to remove the piston and conrod. The crank should then just slide out. Heat the crankcase in the oven for about 15-20 minutes at 350F and the rear bearing should drop right out. If it doesn't just drop out, tap the crankcase on a block of wood a time or two and it should come out then. If there is a good buildup of congealed oil around the bearing and crankcase it might take a good thump on the block of wood to get the bearing out.
#6
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Thanx i got the crank out but the bearing casing was not as easy as tapping out.
Here is a new trick i call the ice trick, lol
Simply heat your engine casing, doesn't matter what method i simply used a gas torch, then i used some ear buds soaked in cold ice water, when you've heated apply cold water on the bearing ring alone, to shrink it slightly, i still had to pull it out with a long nose pliers.
hope this helps someone.
Here is a new trick i call the ice trick, lol
Simply heat your engine casing, doesn't matter what method i simply used a gas torch, then i used some ear buds soaked in cold ice water, when you've heated apply cold water on the bearing ring alone, to shrink it slightly, i still had to pull it out with a long nose pliers.
hope this helps someone.
#7
Using a torch can warp the case. You always want to heat the crankcase evenly thus my suggestion to use the oven. I've never had to cool the bearing race to get a bearing out. The aluminum has a much higher expansion rate than the steel bearing so it shouldn't be necessary to cool the steel parts down. In the end you got the bearing out and that's the important part.




