Hey guys, for a while I've had this Heng Long 1/16 German Tank, but unfortuntaly they mess up the front end its not a scale representation of any real German tanks. So I've decided to turn it into a 1/10 tracked vehicle thing.... Stay tuned for updates

Here are some mock up pics to get a feel of how I'm going to do it...

And one for size reference

So far I plan to change a few things around.... ATM it's front wheel drive with leading arm suspension.... IMO it's one of the worst setups for a tracked vehicle. So my plan to correct the chassis is to simply run it backwards and raise the idler wheel...... This will change the leading arms into trailing arms making the suspension a lot more useable and it will make it rear wheel drive.

aswell as that Im planing to run a single axle for the idler wheels to help keep them more true and I'm looking into doing the same thing with the trailigh arm mounts

Another big win....... I've been trying to work out how to give it hobby grade electronics... And I have a easy solution....

im currently using a Hacked flysky GT3c controller for all my other cars.... Because it's hacked I'm able to use it to controll dual ESC on MOA crawlers and I got to thinking I wonder if I can do the same with a tank. But rather than using programable buttons to mix the ESC's can I use the steering wheel.... So I sent of a message to the support forum and bingo u can... And it's easy to set up...

So all I do is plug one ESC into ch1 and the other into ch2 and set it up in the menu.... Then the throttle acts like normal and the steering mixes the speed of the tracks...

why not use a V tail mixer from a plane (also called a elevon mixer) It mixes rudder and aileron (bank and steer) channels. Normally wired up to 2 servos, but works the same wired up to 2 ESCs. V tail mixers are cheap to. Some guys use them between the throttle and rudder channels to get differential thrust.

Hey that would work too...

I think ultimatly it's better if I do it from the controller.... It's allready hacked and all so it's not going to cost anything
that way I will only need a 2ch receiver, and the Two ESC.

one other good thing about using the controller to do it,
the ESC will be on there own channel and I will still be able to adjust there, sub trim, trim, DR and EXPO, indervidialy

the v tail mixer also only needs a 2ch radio...but I have to agree your radio is likely a better option due to the ability to fine tune the mixing. An external Vtail mixer just has 1 predetermined mix. Airplane radios with built in mixing are adjustable but Id rather use a pistol radio than a 2 stick for the tracked beast.

Im going to follow and see what you come up with. I love the idea of a tracked RC, but I want one with good capabilities. The few tanks I have tried and the kyosho blizzard but neither really seems built for actually offroad use. The blizzard lacks any incline on the front of the track, has no ground clearance and the weight balance is all wrong (and they are not cheap) Not sure how far you are going to go with this build, but will still be interested to see what you come up with.

maybe someday I will hack my GT3c. Even without the hack, it is a dang good radio for $60. Possibly my favorite radio.

hmm I used a Flysky 6 channel radio when I did my tracked monstrosity that was made from HL tank parts with the throttle, and uhh right stick each controlling one side.

I started rebuilding my Tiger tank since I lost its controller with hobby grade electronics(reusing that controller), and would have finished if I didn't have some unexpected bills pop up(like the car I drove to works engine dying, and needing to buy another vehicle)


Dunno if you remember my tracked thing build

I scrapped it completely since as the things I was using for wheels shattered from the plastic being thinned out to get bearings in the bottom wheels

Cheerz guys... That's a aewsome little trick with the tail mixer.... If only u were local... I'd hack ur controller for u Any syco, I do remember that.... it's my inspiration.... I've allways liked the idea but back then I had to many projects on the goI don't ever see it been good on the rocks, the hard plastic tracks provide very little traction on hard surfaces... I did have an idea of gluing small rubber strips of rubber onto the tracks.... But in the mud and on dirt it should shine... My biggest focus will be increasing the suspension travel and finding a way to keep it more square throughout its travel....then when I get that worked out I want to play around with weights. I suspect..... For the tracks to work efficiently it can't be to heavy or to light.... And I suspect it's to light for its suspension... So I'm wondering with more weight it should help the tracks to dig in

Here is a bit of an update..... I've dremeled the chassis to allow for more up suspension travel. It's basically doubled the travel.
but I've found with that amount of travel it needs longer tracks, so I dare say I will lengthen the tracks and add a tension wheel on the top

here is a pic.... See how high the wheels can now go

Next thing.... The springs are way to tight.... So I might have a think and Google it a bit and see what I can come up with

What do you mean by front wheel drive/ rear wheel drive? Where the drive gears are located?

Why is rear drive better?

Yep that it m8, I sure there is a fancy name for it but I'm referring to where the drive is coming from

as for explaining how rear is better.... I'll have a go....

Front gear drive... Allows for a shorter tank (less flank armour = lighter) but, to get torque to the ground the drive sprocket pulls the top track tight then that torque goes around the idler and then under the main wheels... This pulling puts a lot of stress on the idler and as it gets tighter the track starts to compress the rear suspension....allso while this is all happening the slack/ loose section Is just between the front drive wheels and the drive sprocket meaning the track that's been feed under the drive wheels is under no tension.

Rear gear drive, more of a direct drive because the torque goes straight from the sprocket to Under the main wheels...as the track goes around the idler and back along the top there is no load on the track, reducing stress on the track and the idler gear. Also with this setup u can fit a tensioner to the top track so u can run a longer track for more suspension variation.

From what I can understand no one knows why the Germans favoured front drive in ww2 but by the looks the majority of the new main battle tanks use rear drive systems

Just keep in mind that's only my thoughts from studying this rc tanks suspension and simulating loads by hand...

But the main reason I plan to run the chassis backwards is not because of the drive, that's just a added bonus but mainly so the suspension arms are trailing rather than leading.

Ok, I've found out why the suspension arms flop around.... The only thing that stops them is this little plastic nipple that's hollowed out for the securing screw. So in short it's very fragile and bends easily, one of them was extreemly floppy and fell apart when I removed the screw.

so my solution will be to run m3 threaded rod from one side to the other side. And a sleeve where the arm pivots from and secure them with a nut. Because of the gearbox I cant do this with the end arms but I plan to use threaded rod that goes from the arm to the metal part of the gearbox...

next... looking at the springs they are running about 130deg preload. And looking at the nipple u can see the springs locating hole is in the bottom left, if drill a hole in the bottom right it will reduce that to about 90deg preload

Update... I've made up some axles for the suspension arms out of threaded rod And braised the nut on one end.... This should be considerably stronger and keep the suspension more true

you also might want to look on the tank forum some people have modded bearings into the wheels to allow them to turn easier.

Oh really,,, I might look into that... Cheerz buddy


Hows... Good news... The ESC are on the way..... Yay.

ive ordered some micro 20a ESC without brake.... Can't wait to try it

hope they ain't the ones I tried like a year ago(XYS-BL20A was what the crappy sticker said) as that was a 100% blatant lie on the ad.
I ended up going with the bigger ones that look like they were for a 1/10th that you recommended after that lol

Oh crap.....yep... I remember now.....

what happened???
Ive use the 10a ones with great success with a micro losi... But yeah, that's not a 380 motor....

if if they are no good I can use them on a 1/24 leapoard.....so it's not a total loss

Oh crap.....yep... I remember now.....

what happened???
Ive use the 10a ones with great success with a micro losi... But yeah, that's not a 380 motor....

if if they are no good I can use them on a 1/24 leapoard.....so it's not a total loss

Actially..... I've got a brand new ESC around here for another project (it's good to 300a).... I might pinch that and test it......
I'll be back... Lol

Ok, playing around with a 2s lipo today

freewheeling it draws 1amp, spikes to 2amp when accelerating.... Give or take 0.1amp
Anything around 3.3amp and the gears will slip.
dead stall managed 11.67amps, but that's only because I physically held the pinion. And the voltage droped from 8.16v to 7.97v

Oops early forgot... Here is a pic....I really did test it lol

Here is a pic of the ones im getting



Fingers crossed... In theroy they should be able to handle a dead stall with a 2s lipo all day