Hello all, to start off if there is any thread related please to send a link to it. So what i need is a engine for the caldera. I have finally given up on my current one. I would like it to have lots of low end torque so i could pop some wheelies. Also i would like to keep all my gears and clutch etc. I want very minimal modification. Im fine with drilling holes. I want to keep it under 200 dollars because i have already spent alot of money on the truck.

220 for the truck
50 for the gallon of fuel
50 for the glow driver
60 for the kill switch
30 for the electric starter back plate
75 for shipping (I had to return my first truck)
Thats 485 dollars. Now the engine.
Any ideas?

boy did you get ripped off. the fuel price is high but not unheard of but $50 for the igniter? most expensive one i know of is like $40 and that's got a friggen lipo! and $60 for a kill switch? if it's an actual kill switch, you gout taken because kill switches simply cant work on nitros. if you meant fail safe, you still got ripped off. 3 of the 5 runaways i've had were because of the fail safe.

enough with the price bashing. cant go wrong with OS http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGGP6&P=0

Haha thanks for making me feel better about what I spent. The kill switch is a nitro engine one. What it does is cut the fuel off right infront of the carb. If properly tuned it should shut off within 3 seconds.

Snyways thanks for recommending the OS. Do you know kf i could keep all of my other stuff? Like the clutch, the fly wheel, etc, Aswell as the exhaust?

I love the tech notes for that CVRX .18 engine - fuel required for vehicles with 5-30% nitromethane and no less than 18% oil content. LoL.

I would buy a Dynamite .19T over the OS. It's cheaper too. The fit and finish may not be the same, but they run and run. If you wear it out, a piston and liner will cost you $50 instead of $82 for the OS.
http://www.rcplanet.com/Dynamite_Mac...FQaOaQodRu8C8A

Ok well ill definatly consider those. Im not sure however if i can use my flywheel and all that stuff. As far as wheelies go i might buy some savage 5.9 tires. Does anyone know if a slightly bigger engine would work? Or am i better off sticking to the .18?

Most if not all smallblock engines use the same size crankshaft, so all related clutch and flywheel parts usually fit without issue.

OS have always been like that with fuel recommendations (dunno but maybe because of plane background)....never had a .18CVRX but do know that they are widely used in vehicles using side exhaust engines.

The engine you linked is a rear exhaust?....A really good rear exhaust engine is the OS .18 TZ...


...but besides all that I am not even sure the OP needs a new engine yet....once we see broken bits then we can think about what will be appropriate....remove backplate on original engine and have a look Krokodyl.

Ok thanks alot. What about the exhaust? Do i need to buy a new one or will my current one work? Thanks for all the help.

I should probably take it apart, but as soon as i do that i wont be able to put it back together. But i guess it doesnt make a difference since it wont start anyway. I think i would still like to make the upgrade but ill have a look.

Ok so i took the backplate off and everything looked good. So i put it back together since the hex turned easily. Please dont ask for pics since i put it together. No i tried to start it with no luck. Not even the smallest attempt. Now i remembered that before when it started and got hot it would lose compression until it cooled down. Not sure if that means anything? Also the engine does not make the same somd when being turned by the drill. Before it was nice and loud now its very quiet.

Yeah, their nickel liners peel in their plane engines. Nickel is the cheap route. I'm surprised they don't cheap out and make the car liners with nickel instead of chrome. A lot of OS engines are made in China now too.

I didn't catch the exhaust orientation - my bad.

Ok, so I need a sude exnaust. I think il buy the OS

Ok so ive been searching around and found http://www.redcatracing.com/BS903-064OS
Does anyone know anything about theses engines? Any one have any pictures? Im sort of doubtful if its a actual os of good quality. I would also like to lnow the specs if anyone has them. Anybody have any good info? It would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Hubert

It's probably not a real OS. There was a thread about another one of those Redcat "OS" engines. It's bogus. Here's a link to a .21 for a Redcat truck. Note the stickers on the side of the engine. OS has the model of the engine cast into the case, not a sticker. http://m.ebay.com/itm/NEW-REDCAT-RAC...455?nav=SEARCH

Ok thanks for telling me before i ordered one. Im still debating on what i should get. I think ill order a OS tommorow. Anyone know if the truck would take a .21? Im gussing not, llus ive heard i couldnt use my clutch flywheel, etc.

I think you should stick with an .18 or a .15 until you figure out how to tune an engine and prevent what happened to the first engine. A .21 is physically a larger block and a different mounting pattern with the exception of the OS .21TM which is a T-Maxx/Traxxas replacement engine for the 3.3. It's a .21 cylinder in a small block crankcase.

Ok i ordered the engine from towers. Si my question is can i use the fuel i have? Its 20 percent nitro which i guess is fine but only 12 percent lubrication. Its byron gen 2 race fuel. Also is there any way to see if fuel is goid kther than testing it in the engine

Byrons has been fine in every car engine I have ever used from .11 to .28.........20% nitro content will be fine in a .18......but remember that even if you are using decent fuel any engine can be ruined quickly by not properly breaking in and/or running too lean.

I always break in new engines with more oil. Adequate lubrication with a leaner setting so it gets up to proper temp. The crucial parts that need to break-in are the conrod journals at the wristpin and crankpin. The piston fits itself over time. After a dozen or so tanks, I'd go to my normal fuel I'd normally use for everyday running.

Just my method which I know works. Haven't had to replace a piston and liner in over 15 years and many many gallons of fuel. Just a set of bearings every 7-10 gallons or so.

Ok so i recieved the os and i have an issue. First I cant remove the flywheel off my old engine. I held the flywheel and soun the bolt, For some reason the piston and all would move while i was unscrewing it. (counterclockwise) It wont move clockwise. Next, the clutch shoes are not exactly round when put together, they form an oval, not sure if that is good or not?

Put a wood dowel or a couple of zip ties into the exhaust port to stop the piston when trying to loosen the flywheel nut. The clutch shoes will usually look oval when not on the flywheel pins on a 2-shoe clutch. Sounds normal to me.

Ok thanks, one more thing, should the fly wheel be touching the wheel with teeth thing? Yes i am a newb and dont know what that part is called. Anyways it seems the the flywhhel has to be firced agains that part so that the both spin.

If the flywheel rubs on the clutchbell, that's bad. You would want to shim the clutchbell out a little bit if that's the case. A picture would help confirm this.

Yes i know the flywheel shouldnt rub the clutch bell. However i am talking about the drive hub.Should there be a space between that and the flywheel? Also there was a hub ont the crankshaft which i took off because i didnt see the purpose for it. However was i correct in doing so?

There should be a tapered collet that goes onto the crankshaft that locks the flywheel to the shaft when the flywheel nut is tightened. If you removed the collet and put the flywheel on alone, it will rub on the crankcase and also not be centered when you tighten the nut.