try rccarmax.com. they carry parts for those. i also have a vh-x5 and looking for parts

rccarmax.com has parts

hey all just a quick one!, ive had the smartech speedy tiger buggy for about a week now. ive run it in as the book stated and everythin was fine but.. as soon as i gave it full throttle the rear gear box main drive gear and shaft ripped through the housing! has anyone had a similar or same problem as this and is there anything i can do to stop it happening again?...i would of thought it should be man enough for the job! not happy! many thanx cheers all!

can you post pics? i am not sure what happened. that shaft is supposed to run on bearings, and i doubt they could rip through the housing.

god, you know this car is cheap when it only cost 12 dollars for a chassi.

theres nothing wrong with cheap

gotta start somewhere.

i am posting up some new videos of my speedy tiger. check out my youutube channel. be expecting more videos.
http://www.youtube.com/user/TriumphTrailBlazer

check this out
http://www.jfnorris.com/modules.php?...ewtopic&p=1216

Nice find! I am going to try it sometime on one of my junker engines!

Hey guys, I posted once about a month ago, about buying a new RC.

I decided to buy an off road 1/8th Smartech vanguard sport (I believe), didn't really tell me on the package. [&:]

Anyway It is a good buggy for the price no doubt (its a learner buggy for me until I can affoard better (only 14)). Though I did replaced the servos (with futaba) after the throttle servo blew a gear.

Anyway I am a little confused as to leaning it out a bit, as it bogges down on acceleration a bit, bogges( like it is stuttering) and sometimes dies when in idle.
It is still at factory settings (I used for break-in process)

I have a .25 CXP, is there only one screw that that acts like HSN and a LSN? I can see another two more, (one is in the little rubber thing that the throttle servo pulls on, and the other is in a tricky place to get at, at the bottom of the carb.

I am guessing the biggest screw on the top of the carb is the HSN, the one at the bottom of the Carb is the LSN, and possibly the one that is by where the throttle is, is the idle (or it just does nothing)

Is there anyone else here with a .25CXP engine that can help me out, it would be greatly appreciated to I can tune this a little better then what it is.

Glad to finally be apart of this community. I've been reading here for a while and you guys give out great info[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

P.S. Okay the biggest needle at the top of the is called the "High Speed Adjustable Screw" (was what I thought), but the one at the bottom of the carb is called "Base Speed Adjustable Screw" does this mean Idle or LSN, also the one by the throttle is called the ""Base speed needle".. Base speed Adjustable screw and needle [&:]

Thanks in advance Guy's

The one at the bottom of the carb is the idle screw. The one by the throttle arm is the LSN.

If you haven't changed the HSN and LSN since break in, then you need to start slowly turning them clockwise and leaning out the engine. Only do 1/8 turns.

Thanks docphysics, I will have a go at this tonight

Hey folks! Been a while...
I am still wondering if anyone found a source for the #40177 universal dogbone shafts?
I check ebay still, but nothing comes up.

No problem dude. Also watch these vids! It will help!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSmMzpZM_As

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJFsJAxNoRg

hey all again!, basically the shaft like you said runs through a bearing each side of the front casing to the master gear.
wen i took the casing apart i found that somehow the bearing had pulled through the side of the round plastic casing it sits in, and the master gear where the shaft had gone side ways had literally cut its way through the round plastic case that the bearing sat in, until drive was lost as the drive shaft fell out of the round conection housin that it sits in if that makes sense! crazy aint it thats some serious animalistik POWER! or exteremly ****ty PLASTIC! one of the 2. ill post pictures as soon as poss.
wat probs if any, have you had? all the best pistonhead 2!

o btw are your rear shocks soft as ****e? the rear of the chassis is battered!..cheers!.....

Hey guys a got a question for ya I got a speedy tiger with two speed transmission and I have a deal on a DTX (Duratrax) .18 Engine. I know that this engine is suppose to be for onroad car's but can I put this engin in my buggy? I also know that this engine is made by O.S someone have advice about this engine? Do this engine will use the same muffler, engine mount, clutch, clutch bell and muffler exaust than the .15CX one? Tanks all for your advise!!

yes, it will be a direct fit, and the header, pipe, clutch bell, clutch etc. will all fit onto the dtx .18 engine.

Those dtx .18 engines make awesome power. They just don't usually last longer than 2 gallons though cuz the sleeve is ABN and not ABC.

hi all. i hav not been on in a while. man the last time i was on there was no people on here cept doc. i thought it was dead...... it pretty much was for about 1 month..... but it is back...
ok so i need to rebuild my engine. now cuz the smt is built abn. should i just get a good engine? and is it better to break it in in cold wether or hot wether? i have wonderd that for a long time....

Its best to break the engine in, in neutral weather. somewhere between 60-80 is best.

If all your other engine parts are fine, then a new piston and sleeve is the cheapest way to go. If you can find the parts.

If not, then go for a new engine.

The OS CV-RX is the best value for the money, but at $109.00 not really the cheapest.

give this a try. it is free! just dont shrink the sleeve too small.
http://www.jfnorris.com/modules.php?...ewtopic&p=1216

Hi folks, I'm new here, having recently bought a winner sport from my LHS- Oh my God, what a load of rubbish- its had a leaking fuel tank, broken front shocks, the infamous melting clutch ( i was given a smartech replacement clutch, but they've changed the design, and it doesn't fit), and now the clutch bell bearings have worn so severly that the bell is moving laterally, causing massive wear to the plastic gears in the middle of the car
I've only had this car a week, and will be attempting to get a refund today- don't flame me for this- I respect you guys who keep their cars going, but I'm used to better quality these days!

Is your whole RC Smartech ofr just some of the parts? If your vehicle is Smartech, find out what RC it is cpied from. Then, buy the parts for that original RC, it should fit your Smartech.

Thanks, it was a Smartech through and through...I say "was" 'cos I went back to the shop and refused to leave till he gave me my money back! I'm just glad to have got rid of it, thought I was gonna be stuck with that one!

Well, based on what you did, I say you chose wisely. Smartech is horrible in its production standards. Smartech uses inferior materials (poor metals, poorly casted plastics), and the poduction tolerances are absolutely too large. This tanslats into parts that fit okay when first assembled, but as the vehicle takes on heat and expands accordingly, the expansion rates of the parts become mismatched.

Smartech is cheap for this major reason: They seriously sacrifice quality. Some argue that the cheapness of Smartech is a good to introduce people to RCs. I personally say that the poor quality turns off most from RCs. RCs already require alot of involvement: tuning the engines, dialing in the set-up for better traction, replacing parts, rebuilding engine and motors, recutting cooms, and so forth. Why make it all worse with terrible quality? Why force the end user to replace parts more often when the parts should have lasted several more gallons of running? The hobby is daunting enough. I say dont make it any worse with poor quality.