official smartech buggy thread
#426
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From: nevada city,
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well the recoil pull starter came so i was really excited because i would get to drive my buggy
but the pull starter didn't fit [&o]so i don't know what to do or where to go to order one that actualy fits
zack
but the pull starter didn't fit [&o]so i don't know what to do or where to go to order one that actualy fitszack
#427

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From: Sheffield, UNITED KINGDOM
did you order the pull start from www.excelhobby.com? and are you putting it on the original smartech engine?
Ryan.
Ryan.
#428
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From: Midlands, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi Abri,
Just received word from a supplier here in the UK after months of chasing parts for my speedy tiger. They e-mailed me a complete list of parts with numbers and prices. My only problem is that I can't source a two speed clutch bell, the one quoted in the parts list is for a single speed. Anyway if you visit the web site of time tunnel models and follow on screen prompts for Smartech parts I am sure you will find the list they e-mailed me. If you have difficulty please let me know and I will try and copy the list and send it to you over the ether.
best regards,
Chadz [8D]
#429
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From: Midlands, UNITED KINGDOM
Thanks Rob,
I'm having a few prob's with my car at the moment and have stripped and greased the diff's. The drive shafts are a pain as the little pegs at either end seem to wear away very quickly and then you lose the drive to the wheels. A way around this is to file the stubs flat and drill through the ball ends, then temper new pegs and solder them in position. I guess it's just one of those jobs you have to do every now and then.
The range of the Smartech rx/tx is very poor. Mine loses the signal beyond approx. 40 metres. - beware of this.
Also unlike aero engines you can't get an instant response to tuning. The needle valves on the aero engines are superb and you hear a definate increase in revs when you tweak them in. Tuning the Smartech motor is mission impossible, it seems to change each time I run the model, plus the idle is hopeless.
Just got a very comprehensive list of parts for the Smartech speedy tiger from time tunnel models here in the UK. Give 'em a try if you need parts.
All for now,
regards,
Chadz [8D]
I'm having a few prob's with my car at the moment and have stripped and greased the diff's. The drive shafts are a pain as the little pegs at either end seem to wear away very quickly and then you lose the drive to the wheels. A way around this is to file the stubs flat and drill through the ball ends, then temper new pegs and solder them in position. I guess it's just one of those jobs you have to do every now and then.
The range of the Smartech rx/tx is very poor. Mine loses the signal beyond approx. 40 metres. - beware of this.
Also unlike aero engines you can't get an instant response to tuning. The needle valves on the aero engines are superb and you hear a definate increase in revs when you tweak them in. Tuning the Smartech motor is mission impossible, it seems to change each time I run the model, plus the idle is hopeless.
Just got a very comprehensive list of parts for the Smartech speedy tiger from time tunnel models here in the UK. Give 'em a try if you need parts.
All for now,
regards,
Chadz [8D]
#430

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From: Sheffield, UNITED KINGDOM
whats the link to the UK supplier? Yea i had trouble with the pins falling out of the driveshafts but after i bought some new 1's it hasnt happend since.
Ryan.
Ryan.
#432
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From: Midlands, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi Ryan,
Don't know how your pins dropped out as the ones fitted to my buggy are a force fit. My pins just got hammered into oblivion until they no longer provided the link to drive the wheels.
The web page you want for Smartech spares is http://goldstarstockists.net/tamiyaparts/tpx/carson.htm
This should work. If it proves not to then go to either time tunnel models web page or goldstar and follow the prompts to reach the parts list.
I'm fixing my drive shafts 'cos I don't want to keep shelling out on these piddly little pins every few weeks.
Safe driving
regards,
Chadz [8D]
Don't know how your pins dropped out as the ones fitted to my buggy are a force fit. My pins just got hammered into oblivion until they no longer provided the link to drive the wheels.
The web page you want for Smartech spares is http://goldstarstockists.net/tamiyaparts/tpx/carson.htm
This should work. If it proves not to then go to either time tunnel models web page or goldstar and follow the prompts to reach the parts list.
I'm fixing my drive shafts 'cos I don't want to keep shelling out on these piddly little pins every few weeks.
Safe driving
regards,
Chadz [8D]
#433

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From: Sheffield, UNITED KINGDOM
Even though thats a Uk supplier its expensive [&:] lol www.excelhobby.com is the best so far, unless someone can find a cheaper site 
Ryan.

Ryan.
#434
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From: Midlands, UNITED KINGDOM
Just looked at the site you recommended and the shipping was over twice the cost of the part I want. DOH! [:'(]
Chadz [8D]
Chadz [8D]
#435
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From: Wichita Falls,
TX
Hey fellas. Been following the thread for a while and I own a Vh-x5 which is pretty much a knockoff of the winner sport. All the parts are the exact same minus the shocks. Its a 2 speed but the problem I'm having is the main gear is slipping on the shaft. Its on a one way bearing which seems weird to me so basically it just spins on the bearing on the shaft. Theres nothing holding the gear to the bearing.
Theres no pin or anything to hold the gear to the shaft on the bearing of any kind. Was wondering if anyone has advice or experience with the 2 speeds or can anyone give me the complete part list for the 1 speed transmission. Im thinking about switching out to the 1 speed for less of a headache. A exploded diagram and part list of the 1 speed would be great. I'll order it up on excellhobby but i need to know what parts.
Theres no pin or anything to hold the gear to the shaft on the bearing of any kind. Was wondering if anyone has advice or experience with the 2 speeds or can anyone give me the complete part list for the 1 speed transmission. Im thinking about switching out to the 1 speed for less of a headache. A exploded diagram and part list of the 1 speed would be great. I'll order it up on excellhobby but i need to know what parts.
#436
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From: , UNITED KINGDOM
Just found a battered Winner Sport 2 speed on Ebay U.K, should be good for spares, If you win it send me the front diff, [link]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Smartech-Winner-Sport-Nitro-1-10-Buggy-2-speed-TLC_W0QQitemZ6014729846QQcategoryZ19168QQrdZ1QQcmd ZViewItem[/link]
#438
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From: Midlands, UNITED KINGDOM
Doing a bit of experimenting the other day with my speedy tiger, trying to get the carb balanced. [&:] This is far more difficult than aero engines. Anyway when I looked at the amount of disturbance going on in the fuel tank due to the pressure link from the exhaust manifold I reasoned that when the tank gets low some of this hot gas is being pushed into the feed to the carb and causing erratic power bursts. The guy in the hobby shop said that this link was required and I tend to agree for aero use when you consider the thousand and one diffierent positions the aircraft gets into but in cars I have my doubts.
I disconnected the pressure link and blocked the outlet from the manifold and the car runs much sweeter now. Just leave the top of the tank open to atmosphere via the nipple that you normally take the pressure line to and run it. The engine will pull what fuel it needs assisted by the atmospheric pressure which is quite awesome anyway (14.7 lb sq ft) depending on altitude above sea level.
The other cause of air in the feed to the carb is via the priming pump. Seal this off. If you need to prime the line to the carb just attach a long piece of clean fuel tubing to the nipple mentioned above (top of tank) and blow gently taking care not to ingest any fuel 'cos it will poison you. [:'(]
Have a try at the above and see how much better your car operates.
Safe driving.
regards,
Chadz [8D]
I disconnected the pressure link and blocked the outlet from the manifold and the car runs much sweeter now. Just leave the top of the tank open to atmosphere via the nipple that you normally take the pressure line to and run it. The engine will pull what fuel it needs assisted by the atmospheric pressure which is quite awesome anyway (14.7 lb sq ft) depending on altitude above sea level.
The other cause of air in the feed to the carb is via the priming pump. Seal this off. If you need to prime the line to the carb just attach a long piece of clean fuel tubing to the nipple mentioned above (top of tank) and blow gently taking care not to ingest any fuel 'cos it will poison you. [:'(]
Have a try at the above and see how much better your car operates.
Safe driving.
regards,
Chadz [8D]
#439
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From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
fuel into the carb via atmospheric pressure?
erm, its called the venturi effect
the presuuriser thingo i think is mainly to stop foaming of the fuel.
erm, its called the venturi effect

the presuuriser thingo i think is mainly to stop foaming of the fuel.
#440
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From: Midlands, UNITED KINGDOM
Der!
Yes its called siphoning, whereby you use the atmospheric pressure to do the work, i.e. push the fuel towards the carb.
The venturi effect in the neck of the carb is simply to create a lowering of pressure within the carb at that point thereby inducing a greater flow of air at the venturi and inducing fuel flow.
If you don't believe me, seal the fuel tank and see how much fuel you get at the carb. I can tell you now that you will get Zilch fuel and risk pulling a vacuum in the fuel tank. A partial vacuum in the fuel tank could cause it to implode.
regards.
Chadz [8D]
Yes its called siphoning, whereby you use the atmospheric pressure to do the work, i.e. push the fuel towards the carb.
The venturi effect in the neck of the carb is simply to create a lowering of pressure within the carb at that point thereby inducing a greater flow of air at the venturi and inducing fuel flow.
If you don't believe me, seal the fuel tank and see how much fuel you get at the carb. I can tell you now that you will get Zilch fuel and risk pulling a vacuum in the fuel tank. A partial vacuum in the fuel tank could cause it to implode.
regards.
Chadz [8D]
#441

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From: Sheffield, UNITED KINGDOM
LMAO LMAO LMAO, haha im gonna die of poisioning!!!!!!!!!
My primer is broke so i blow down the exhaust tube (to the tank) to prime the carb BUT BE CAREFULL WHEN THE TANK IS FULL TO THE BRIM!!! When its full and u blow down it, u get a nice supprise in your mouth! Nitro fuel. Dont know why but it come back up the tube and into your mouth.
Went out today with my buggy on my frozen road/ice outside and i was using a curb and wet leaves as a jump. After having some fun i thought i would gun it so see how far i got. Well it didnt get past the curb, i missed the leaves and hit the curb. Damage report:
Ripped front bumper off
Tore the screw out of the front suspension/arm support. So a new 1 of them
Broken servo saver (now glued)
Well the glue is dry so cya later, hehe
Ryan.
My primer is broke so i blow down the exhaust tube (to the tank) to prime the carb BUT BE CAREFULL WHEN THE TANK IS FULL TO THE BRIM!!! When its full and u blow down it, u get a nice supprise in your mouth! Nitro fuel. Dont know why but it come back up the tube and into your mouth.
Went out today with my buggy on my frozen road/ice outside and i was using a curb and wet leaves as a jump. After having some fun i thought i would gun it so see how far i got. Well it didnt get past the curb, i missed the leaves and hit the curb. Damage report:
Ripped front bumper off
Tore the screw out of the front suspension/arm support. So a new 1 of them
Broken servo saver (now glued)
Well the glue is dry so cya later, hehe
Ryan.
#442
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From: Essex, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi chads got your email
The grub screw is located within the small gear. If you hold the small gear and rotate the large gear you will see the grub screw clearly turn inside the small gear. this grub screw holds a spring down which in turn holds down the gear change arm, if you tighten the screw it becomes harder for the spring to release the arm (therefore holding the gear change) much the same as the clutch works. clear as mud!! basically you need to tighten this screw to hold the gear longer. Best way to do it is to start with the grub screw fully tightened and give the car a run then turn half the screw and keep repeating, to be true the figures between the 2 speed and the single speed are not that different, its hard to tell when the car changes gear. My friend has the same car and they both run completely different but the results are almost identical
Hope this help if you need more info send me an email
The grub screw is located within the small gear. If you hold the small gear and rotate the large gear you will see the grub screw clearly turn inside the small gear. this grub screw holds a spring down which in turn holds down the gear change arm, if you tighten the screw it becomes harder for the spring to release the arm (therefore holding the gear change) much the same as the clutch works. clear as mud!! basically you need to tighten this screw to hold the gear longer. Best way to do it is to start with the grub screw fully tightened and give the car a run then turn half the screw and keep repeating, to be true the figures between the 2 speed and the single speed are not that different, its hard to tell when the car changes gear. My friend has the same car and they both run completely different but the results are almost identical
Hope this help if you need more info send me an email
#443

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From: Sheffield, UNITED KINGDOM
Mint andy
ive just found out from a mate why my mates gearbox aint working (not set up) and uve told me
thanks. Well the glue didn't work
so i'll have to wait till next week.
Ryan.
ive just found out from a mate why my mates gearbox aint working (not set up) and uve told me
thanks. Well the glue didn't work
so i'll have to wait till next week.Ryan.
#445
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From: sydneyNSW, AUSTRALIA
Hi pplz.
I posted ages ago about my buggy- most replies said it was the clutch. Anywayz i took it into a hobby shop and they confirmed that but they couldnt find the correct parts. Ive been searching around and as soon as i find what i think is the right clutch number, another site says something completely different. So does anyone know the part number for a full replacement smartech clutch? or a good website for parts that ships to Australia? thanks in advance.
O. by the way its a smartech winner sport- TWO speed transmission. ty.
I posted ages ago about my buggy- most replies said it was the clutch. Anywayz i took it into a hobby shop and they confirmed that but they couldnt find the correct parts. Ive been searching around and as soon as i find what i think is the right clutch number, another site says something completely different. So does anyone know the part number for a full replacement smartech clutch? or a good website for parts that ships to Australia? thanks in advance.
O. by the way its a smartech winner sport- TWO speed transmission. ty.
#446
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From: nevada city,
CA
hi,
my smartech speedy tiger hasn't been run in what seems like two months
. I can't find a recoil pull starter or any starter that will fit my buggy and actualy start it. my carb doesn't seem to be tuning because when i turn the needles the gap doesnt become bigger or smaller and i don't know what to do, i have been working on it all weekend and i can't figger out whats the problem so if anybody knows it would be much help because i really want to get my buggy working so i can drive it again. oh and by the way my dad found the official smartech corporation site :http://www.smartechracing.com/web_2005/main.asp
zach
my smartech speedy tiger hasn't been run in what seems like two months
. I can't find a recoil pull starter or any starter that will fit my buggy and actualy start it. my carb doesn't seem to be tuning because when i turn the needles the gap doesnt become bigger or smaller and i don't know what to do, i have been working on it all weekend and i can't figger out whats the problem so if anybody knows it would be much help because i really want to get my buggy working so i can drive it again. oh and by the way my dad found the official smartech corporation site :http://www.smartechracing.com/web_2005/main.asp zach
#447
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From: Midlands, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi Andy,
Thanks for your detailed reply regarding the gearchange mechanism on the Speedy Tiger. I had another look at this box of tricks last night and the operation is still baffling me. The two main gear wheels both turn together and as the gears on the clutch bell are definately fixed I can't see how the drive is changed between gears. I have looked through the slot in the small gear and found what looks like a threaded hole that should house a grub screw but looking through my magnifying glass the grub screw has gone AWOL.
I like to fully understand how things work and it looks as though I will have to strip the gearbox down to fully appreciate how it interacts. If this grub screw is missing it would explain why my Tiger changes up so quickly wouldn't it?
Thanks once again for your advice, it's very helpful to exchange info with other enthusiasts.
Ta,
Chadz [8D]
Thanks for your detailed reply regarding the gearchange mechanism on the Speedy Tiger. I had another look at this box of tricks last night and the operation is still baffling me. The two main gear wheels both turn together and as the gears on the clutch bell are definately fixed I can't see how the drive is changed between gears. I have looked through the slot in the small gear and found what looks like a threaded hole that should house a grub screw but looking through my magnifying glass the grub screw has gone AWOL.
I like to fully understand how things work and it looks as though I will have to strip the gearbox down to fully appreciate how it interacts. If this grub screw is missing it would explain why my Tiger changes up so quickly wouldn't it?
Thanks once again for your advice, it's very helpful to exchange info with other enthusiasts.
Ta,
Chadz [8D]
#449
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From: Essex, UNITED KINGDOM
i will post some pics of the inside workings of the gears 
the gear change stuff is all inside the 2 plastic gears [8D]
I unscrewed the whole thing to understand how it worked, im the same in that respect i need to know whats going on inside 100%

the gear change stuff is all inside the 2 plastic gears [8D]
I unscrewed the whole thing to understand how it worked, im the same in that respect i need to know whats going on inside 100%






