official smartech buggy thread
#451
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From: Midlands, UNITED KINGDOM
Guten Morgen,
Anybody know how to eliminate CLUTCH SLIP?
I have fitted larger diameter wheels and tyres on my Speedy Tiger but the drive train won't lay the power down through the wheels. The engine revs as per normal but the car barely moves, especially on rough ground. The clutch bell is not new but the shoes are. One thing I did notice when I installed the new clutch shoes is that the spring that wraps around them is mega tight and the revs have to be quite high before the shoes contact the bell. With the old clutch shoes and spring the clutch engaged at a little over tickover speed. I have thought about drilling through the clutch bell and using two self tapping screws to secure the clutch shoes to the bell. I know that the wheels will always be driven if I do this and that the car will never stand still at tickover but it would certainly prevent clutch slip.
Anybody ever done this? I have my reservations but for the cost of a clutch bell and a pair of clutch shoes it might be worth a try.
Let me know if you think I'm foaming at the mouth [:'(] of if you think the idea has a fighting chance of working OK.
regards,
Chadz [8D]
Anybody know how to eliminate CLUTCH SLIP?
I have fitted larger diameter wheels and tyres on my Speedy Tiger but the drive train won't lay the power down through the wheels. The engine revs as per normal but the car barely moves, especially on rough ground. The clutch bell is not new but the shoes are. One thing I did notice when I installed the new clutch shoes is that the spring that wraps around them is mega tight and the revs have to be quite high before the shoes contact the bell. With the old clutch shoes and spring the clutch engaged at a little over tickover speed. I have thought about drilling through the clutch bell and using two self tapping screws to secure the clutch shoes to the bell. I know that the wheels will always be driven if I do this and that the car will never stand still at tickover but it would certainly prevent clutch slip.
Anybody ever done this? I have my reservations but for the cost of a clutch bell and a pair of clutch shoes it might be worth a try.
Let me know if you think I'm foaming at the mouth [:'(] of if you think the idea has a fighting chance of working OK.
regards,
Chadz [8D]
#452
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From: nevada city,
CA
hi i found out a way to clean the really small places that you can't normally get to, you use a steam cleaner with a nosle and it will clean anything rite up. it still doesn't help my buggy not working but it will keep it clean will sitting their.
zack
zack
#454
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From: lexington, MO
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#456
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From: tacoma,
WA
Snow is awesome! Haha, i took my speedy tiger out a couple of nights ago on a baseball field and it got pretty dirty. Luckily it snowed last night and i took it out in about 2 inches of snow today. Not only have i alleviated the dirt problem, but i've left some tire tread marks through the snow to keep the footprints company.
This little thing (assuming it starts next time i try to fire it up) is damn near indescructible. I accidently figured out that it can go right up curbs if angled correctly... however not entirely unscathed.
Not exactly indestructible. What does everyone suggest for front shocks given a wreckless... borderline sadistic driver? I've turned my front right right shock into a front right spring.
I'm also curious what could cause an increase in power when there's about a 16th of a tank of gas left. It revs the same until then but goes a hell of a lot quicker for the last 16th. Could it be that it isn't sufficiently warmed up? I've never put more than one tank of gas through it consecutively so this could very well be the case.
Thanks for reading... and hopefully responding.
-Rob \,,,/
This little thing (assuming it starts next time i try to fire it up) is damn near indescructible. I accidently figured out that it can go right up curbs if angled correctly... however not entirely unscathed.
Not exactly indestructible. What does everyone suggest for front shocks given a wreckless... borderline sadistic driver? I've turned my front right right shock into a front right spring.
I'm also curious what could cause an increase in power when there's about a 16th of a tank of gas left. It revs the same until then but goes a hell of a lot quicker for the last 16th. Could it be that it isn't sufficiently warmed up? I've never put more than one tank of gas through it consecutively so this could very well be the case.
Thanks for reading... and hopefully responding.
-Rob \,,,/
#457

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From: Sheffield, UNITED KINGDOM
If you want height then get some adjustable 1/8th buggy shocks. And then to get the full amount of travel: cut off the nipple bits on the chassis that stop the a arms going lower. But with doing so you may get a lot of toe out so you will need to adjust your turn bukles. If you dont know what i mean read upward and you'll see pics of my buggy with it done 
Ryan.

Ryan.
#458

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From: Sheffield, UNITED KINGDOM
well the buggy has a shell
I traded a servo for a celica. Here are a few pickies! 
[link=http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=12/33604582811.jpg&s=x12]side view[/link]
[link=http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=12/33605004046.jpg&s=x12]front view[/link]
[link=http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=12/33604561519.jpg&s=x12]electrics[/link]
The green leds look mint in the dark, they light up the engine and chassis
[link=http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=12/33604570126.jpg&s=x12]lights[/link]
I traded a servo for a celica. Here are a few pickies! 
[link=http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=12/33604582811.jpg&s=x12]side view[/link]
[link=http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=12/33605004046.jpg&s=x12]front view[/link]
[link=http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=12/33604561519.jpg&s=x12]electrics[/link]
The green leds look mint in the dark, they light up the engine and chassis

[link=http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=12/33604570126.jpg&s=x12]lights[/link]
#459
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From: greendale,
IN
ORIGINAL: antihuman09
I'm also curious what could cause an increase in power when there's about a 16th of a tank of gas left. It revs the same until then but goes a hell of a lot quicker for the last 16th. Could it be that it isn't sufficiently warmed up? I've never put more than one tank of gas through it consecutively so this could very well be the case.
Thanks for reading... and hopefully responding.
-Rob \,,,/
I'm also curious what could cause an increase in power when there's about a 16th of a tank of gas left. It revs the same until then but goes a hell of a lot quicker for the last 16th. Could it be that it isn't sufficiently warmed up? I've never put more than one tank of gas through it consecutively so this could very well be the case.
Thanks for reading... and hopefully responding.
-Rob \,,,/
maybe because the fuel getting low and ur engine running lean that makes increase power and the car become little lighter compare when its full tank.
#460
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From: nevada city,
CA
Hey,
My buggy isnt starting, we have tried turning the tuning needles but it doesnt seem to help. We know their is fuel getting to the engine and the glow plug works, but we think it is not getting hot enough to ignite the fuel. the piston moves, but the engine doesn't start. If anyone knows whats happening it would be much thanks.
zack
My buggy isnt starting, we have tried turning the tuning needles but it doesnt seem to help. We know their is fuel getting to the engine and the glow plug works, but we think it is not getting hot enough to ignite the fuel. the piston moves, but the engine doesn't start. If anyone knows whats happening it would be much thanks.
zack
#461
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From: Midlands, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi Zack,
I've just been through the same nightmare as you and this is what I did to rectify it.
I took the carb off the engine and stripped it right down but before I stripped it I tested it for air leaks and found a massive one around the slow running screw. The way I checked for this was to connect a piece of fuel tubing to the fuel nipple on the carb and with my fingers, closed off the intake and bottom end of the carb. Next I connected a large plastic syringe to the fuel tube and put the carb in a bowl of water. When I pressed the syringe the air could be seen coming from around the slow running screw, behind the rubber grommet. I packed this grommet with vaseline (you could use high melting point grease).
I put the carb back on the motor making sure the 'O'ring was in place and in good condition. I also smeared some vaseline around this 'O'ring.
With all the screws in the fully closed position I then began opening them up as follows:
Main screw 2.5 turns out from fully closed
Slow/medium screw 1 turn out from fully closed
Idle screw set for 1.5mm opening in carb barrel.
The car did not start with this combination so I gradually increased the slow/medium screw in one eighth progressive steps and after about three of these increases the engine burst into life and is running very nicely.
I am using a medium plug and 20% nitro fuel. My glow battery is fully charged and gives a very bright glow on the plug.
My next task will be to fine tune the Main screw for optimum performance but the engine needs to be hot to do this properly and the rain beat me to it for today.
I hope that this helps you. The air leak was a real ***** and caused me a lot of hassle, but now I've beat it and the engine is on song. I used the syringe because you cannot generate enough pressure with your mouth/lungs and if you try it this way you will not find the air leak if their is one.
regards,
Chadz [8D]
I've just been through the same nightmare as you and this is what I did to rectify it.
I took the carb off the engine and stripped it right down but before I stripped it I tested it for air leaks and found a massive one around the slow running screw. The way I checked for this was to connect a piece of fuel tubing to the fuel nipple on the carb and with my fingers, closed off the intake and bottom end of the carb. Next I connected a large plastic syringe to the fuel tube and put the carb in a bowl of water. When I pressed the syringe the air could be seen coming from around the slow running screw, behind the rubber grommet. I packed this grommet with vaseline (you could use high melting point grease).
I put the carb back on the motor making sure the 'O'ring was in place and in good condition. I also smeared some vaseline around this 'O'ring.
With all the screws in the fully closed position I then began opening them up as follows:
Main screw 2.5 turns out from fully closed
Slow/medium screw 1 turn out from fully closed
Idle screw set for 1.5mm opening in carb barrel.
The car did not start with this combination so I gradually increased the slow/medium screw in one eighth progressive steps and after about three of these increases the engine burst into life and is running very nicely.
I am using a medium plug and 20% nitro fuel. My glow battery is fully charged and gives a very bright glow on the plug.
My next task will be to fine tune the Main screw for optimum performance but the engine needs to be hot to do this properly and the rain beat me to it for today.
I hope that this helps you. The air leak was a real ***** and caused me a lot of hassle, but now I've beat it and the engine is on song. I used the syringe because you cannot generate enough pressure with your mouth/lungs and if you try it this way you will not find the air leak if their is one.
regards,
Chadz [8D]
#463
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From: London,
ON, CANADA
Have you tried your glowplug? Take it out and press it into the igniter and make sure it glows, if not, buy a new glow plug.
#466

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From: Sheffield, UNITED KINGDOM
sexy, I like the shell with the fuel filter and air filter sticking out. And whats with the front suspension tower/strut thing? Did you break yours so you made a new 1?Ryan.
#467

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From: Sheffield, UNITED KINGDOM
o yea them shocks look like mine but yours are purple, so where did you get them from i want some purple new 1's mine leak oil
O and another thing welcome.
Ryan.
O and another thing welcome.Ryan.
#468
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From: nevada city,
CA
hi, my buggy will just turn off when i am driving it. I think it is because of the heat, and i think it is bad for the engine so i am going to get another cooling head for my engine. if anybody knows anything else i can do or of a good cooling head please tell me
zack
zack
#469
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From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
u might need to richen your mixture a bit...
I run my winner pro in 35 degree celcius heat on roads u can;t stand on without shoes (unless u want burnt feet) and mine doesn;t overheat. And the shell completely covers eveything, I only have the windows cut out... and mine is the stock black cooling head.
U should see what happens when i do a few doughnuts in this heat on super hot roads - nice sticky tyres
I run my winner pro in 35 degree celcius heat on roads u can;t stand on without shoes (unless u want burnt feet) and mine doesn;t overheat. And the shell completely covers eveything, I only have the windows cut out... and mine is the stock black cooling head.
U should see what happens when i do a few doughnuts in this heat on super hot roads - nice sticky tyres
#470
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From: Treviso, , ITALY
i broke the shock tower after 3 minutes^_^.....unfortunately in italy it's quite impossible to find parts.....and so i made it...
[&o] it's still broking^_^ YA-HA!!!!!
[&o] it's still broking^_^ YA-HA!!!!!
#471

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From: Sheffield, UNITED KINGDOM
#473
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From: Treviso, , ITALY
I buyed them there... [link]http://www.japanrc.com/[/link] but they are the same of Ryan!!! it's better that u ask him^_^
i upgrated again the shock tower!!!photos soon!!!
YA-HA!!!!!
i upgrated again the shock tower!!!photos soon!!!
YA-HA!!!!!
#474

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From: Sheffield, UNITED KINGDOM
haha lol, i dont know what mine are! lol I bought mine off a mate who got them with his buggy
Could you please give the exact link to them please, i cannot find my way round the site, dont know Italian. hehe.
Ryan.
Could you please give the exact link to them please, i cannot find my way round the site, dont know Italian. hehe.Ryan.
#475
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From: Treviso, , ITALY
[link=http://www.japanrc.com/dettaglio.asp?Codice=M1364]Front Shocks[/link]
[link=http://www.japanrc.com/dettaglio.asp?Codice=M1365]Rear Shocks[/link]
they dont fit perfectly......but u can adapt them quite easily......
P.S.: they are from Duratrax Evader BX
YA-HA!!!!!
[link=http://www.japanrc.com/dettaglio.asp?Codice=M1365]Rear Shocks[/link]
they dont fit perfectly......but u can adapt them quite easily......
P.S.: they are from Duratrax Evader BX
YA-HA!!!!!





