Is it performance,weight ratios, balance, and weight differences etc?

Here's a couple of pics, to show you the similarities between the TA06, and the Losi JRXS Type "R", and the CS mod I did. As far as I'm concerned, the two are "kissing cousins." They are also, in my judgement, the best on-road chassis for multi-purpose on-road use.

Tensioners can be made with a couple of 630 bearings, and a 2mm screw and nut. The tensioner in the pic is just a stainless screw, two 630 bearings, three proper-sized washers, and a nut to fit the screw. That's it!

Yah, if you ever decide to outfit the TA06 for grip driving, use the anti-roll bars then. They definitely help in grip driving!

At a glance they look very very similar. I am glad i went for the ta06 pro and the best bit is, I got it on eBay absolutely mint 2 years ago, fully assembled for 100 quid. It had no electrics but slowly but surely I've replaced almost everything for better and stronger and nicer looking parts.. And it's look sweeettttt! I am still however not tempted t go for a full carbon fibre chassis, I . can't justifying the cost as it is only planned to be a occasional user and mainly a shelf queen

I like those tyre on the losi with the angles side walls, but e tyres I got with my car are very nice brand new hard compound drifters so can't justify buying another set just because I like the look of them lol

Is it easy to up load pics onto here, I can see how to up load the pic, but it only lets me do one and then once I have selected the pic it doesn't give me an option to insert it into a new thread box

One thing I realllyyyyy hate when you order new parts that include screws is that the screw always has a hex head, I like a screw to be a screw i.e star head and not hex, it drives me insane lol

If your TA06 is a part-time shelfer, a carbon conversion I almost a requirement!

All mine are part-time shelfers, too, and they are nearly all carbon. The cost of a carbon conversion kit is minimal, considering how much better a material carbon is, than plastic, for a chassis plate/tub.

And compounds make all the difference, with drift tires, just as they do with grip tires. There is no such thing as an "all-around" drift tire, and different compounds allow you to tailor the drift manners of your chassis to more surfaces than just one will. I have roughly four different sets of wheels/tires for each chassis, so no matter where I may be, I will have tires for any surface I'm likely to come across.
Those angled tires are Yeah Racing 3 degree tires, and are some of the best available. The other compounds I use all come from Raikou Drift tires, online. The value-to-performance ratio of all of them are excellent. The rear tires on that RSector/TA06 in the pics are Raikou DXPE's, and are five, going on six years old! THAT'S how long they last. I can expect the same from the Yeah Racing tires, too, considering how much meat is on them!

On posting pics, since there isn't any "preview comment" box, it will upload the pic at the same time as you click on the "post reply" box.

I've managed to upload two, my wifi speed might be interfering, but this is a glimpse of what it's like just now

The first pic is very stretched so apologies, not sure why it's done that


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1508530750...84.m1497.l2649

These are the wheels I'm waiting for

Then you're the only one! Everyone I know HATES Phillips heads!

When I get option parts from Tamiya, I always toss the included screws, knowing they are Phillips heads. Phillips heads are universally despised, because they strip so easily. They also look like heck, when they are stripped. Allen heads, by comparison, can be tightened more efficiently, and resist stripping much better than any other screw head-type.

I guess it's all about personal preference, but I prefer Allen heads, because they also look cleaner than any other type, at least to me.....

I find Allen heads strip very easily!!, I like the raw and simple looks and like a screw to be a screw lol

Yah, be REALLY careful with those! Alloy wheels can bend, just by looking at them. The first bump into something, and whichever wheel got the hit will be out-of-round, or wobble. I meant to mention that before, but got sidetracked and forgot until you posted the link.

I will be keeping them mainly for the shelf and using the white original ones for out and about

This is a glance of what it was like last year, I'm very pleased with how the shell turned out and I've done my best to look after it, it's almost two years old, and not a mark on it

I see you went with the IFS set-up. Difficult, that, to set-up precisely. I also see the center one-way tucked in there.

You said you CS'ed that chassis? How did you do it, and can we see pics of the parts involved? I have a friend who is considering a TA06, and wants to CS his, when he gets it.

Like I said earlier, I'm waiting for my front one way to arrive, should be either me very shortly!, on it's was from HK!

Nice and clean! I like the black roof and bra.

I've taken my time with this project, and with my limited experience and knowledge I hope I'm going to end up with a beauty

What else us needed for cs-ing other than the front one way which I have yet to install?.

From everything I can see, you're doing an admirable job!

So....did you CS your TA06? I'm wondering now, because I don't recall if you said or not. If you did, we would like to see pics of the parts involved.

See my comments above re cs-ing, thanks for the compliment

O.K., then you haven't. You need more than just a one-way to CS. The one-way doesn't CS. You need to alter the ratio at which the rear wheels spin, as opposed to the fronts. It's also called "Rear Overdriving," meaning the rear wheels spin at a faster rate than the fronts. CS is delineated by a "ratio," or the amount of added wheel travel the rears spin, than the fronts.

Now take the pic of the rear pulley and belt arrangement I posted. That is CS (though a very mild one). The pulley is smaller than the one it originally came with. That effectively altered the rear wheel speed by one-third of a revolution, or 1.33. That means that the rear wheels spin at a rate of 33% more than the fronts. This is what allows you to "steer" into the drift, like a CS chassis is known for.
To mechanically CS a chassis, you need to swap out pulleys, and more than likely, a tensioner will have to be made, as well. The TA06 doesn't lend itself to CS easily, though I have seen examples of guys doing it to a TA06.

Check out "CS Junkies" online, to see some examples.

Explain simply what I need to do? Are you saying I need to buy yet more parts lol

Yep.
Though what's required will take some research. There is a CS calculator at CS Junkies, so you know what combination of pulley sizes you are contemplating will work, and what ratio they are, when installed on you chassis. The problem I see with the TA06, is the center pulley mount doesn't allow for larger pulleys, and the pulley for the front diff is already as big as it can get, and the rear pulley on the spur gear mount can't get much larger, also.
Like I said, if you go to CS Junkies, there's an article on a CS'ed TA06 that turned out very nice.

I'll post something on your TA06 thread, concerning this, if you like.

Yes please, if you could that would be great.. Thanks