MastuhWaffles

Hello, I'm new to this forum, and I saw this thread and figured I'd jump on board the train. Anyways today I bought the Helion Dominus 10TR, the buggy, and my friend got the Helion Dominus 10SC. I finally gave up with Nitro, I've been doing it for some time now and it just got to much. And it's not a simple take it out and go sort of thing, so I decided to go electric. Anyways my two cents on these is that you get what you pay for, regardless they arn't super fancy, nor super cheap. I've heard mixed reviews on them, some good, some bad. First I'm going to start with HobbyTown, as you know it is an exclusive so you can only get parts there. Now, some people's HobbyTowns may not be up to par, but mine seems to be. They carry every part, from batteries to upgrades and everything in between, and have shelves full of them. So, thats a plus for me. Next the vehicle, for around $200, that is a major plus. Now they vehicle itself seems very good, I plan on buying some upgrade parts for mine and some more batteries. The vehicle runs great and I've heard the steering isnt as responsive, and I have to agree. But for me, it's just for fun, and as long as it turns, that's fine with me. The motor is fine, plenty fast, good acceleration. Tires are fine as well, tears through grass like nothing! Body is fine, I like it so, to each his own. This thing is durable aswell, been flipping it like crazy and it still keeps on rollin, I did have the dogbone pop out on me because I smacked into a curb, but I stuck it back in and kept on rollin. Now the batteries....., that's the downside. I've only been able to get 10 minutes out of them, I have the 1800mAh, and I bought a 3000mAh, but I'm guessing it's because I did a quick charge on them for about and hour. I'm going to leave them overnight charging on about .5, and see how they perform tommorow at the track. I'd really hate for them to get 10 minutes because I'd look like an idiot waiting for them to charge again. But this is really for both models, they are good for the price, and on the bright side, you can always upgrade them. Maybe I'll throw in some pictures tommorow at the track. Also on I side note, I'm trying to make an alternator that will allow me to run my rc longer.

dg4571

Can someone recommend a drop in replacement for the steering servo.

Darksabre

Skip the batteries, get a brushless setup, and stop wasting money on awful NiMH batteries. LiPo forever.

Darksabre

The Traxxas 2075 servo should be drop-in, and is still waterproof like the original.

dg4571

Hoping someone can help with this problem, my throttle operates the opposite of the way it should. steering is OK. Pull back and truck is in reverse, push forward and truck goes forward. Any way to reverse this? Stock radio and receiver with a mamba max pro 7700. It worked fine last time I ran it, and all of sudden is reversed.

Darksabre

Did you unplug your motor wires and plug it back in differently? Reversing any two out of the three motor wires will reverse the direction.



Servo Reverse is handled on the radio end. DISCONNECT THE MOTOR FROM THE ESC BEFORE DOING THIS...

dg4571

I got it fixed, ended up doing a re-bind and everything is back to normal. Have no idea why this happened as I didn't do anything except put a new battery in it. Thanks for the replies.

rwek

My Feedback: (1)

Has anyone upgraded their brushed motor to possibly a 15 t or changed out the pinion gear for a little more speed? I am not going brushless yet but I have changed out motors and pinions on other rc vehicles and gotten good responses. Would the existing electronics support such a change?
I have gone to Helions web site and asked them the same thing twice over a couple of weeks and have not received a response from them yet. If I want a response I guess I would be better off just calling them instead.
Thought I might have a better chance of getting a response here than waiting for them to get back to me.

jnimz_rcu

Hi Rwek, It never hurts to play around with gearing ratios. I just upgraded to BL, and left the pinions and gearing alone.

Darksabre

It never hurts, unless you're going over the motors rated max heat, which changing the gear ratio can definitely do. Play with gearing all you want, but monitor your temps, or else you'll find yourself with a toasted motor...good reason to go brushless then though.

jnimz_rcu

Persactly...

rwek

My Feedback: (1)

What are the size spur and pinion that comes on it stock? The manual that comes with it doesn't give that kind of information. Actually it gives very little information in general.

Darksabre

Haha, no clue....start countin!

rwek

My Feedback: (1)

Well I went back to the manual and looked it over again. It does list the spur and pinion gear size. Don't need to start counting. I will either start with a pinion gear a couple teeth less than stock or I may try a different brushed motor and see what happens there. Was looking at my LHS this evening and it was suggested I try a 17 t motor. For around $25 it may be a good alternative.
Anyone notice a difference in performance by using a larger mah battery? Saw online someone was using a 3000 mah ni/mh battery and they claimed it ran faster than the stock 1800 mah battery that comes with it. How about a lipo? I use a 2s 5000 mah lipo on my other car & truck. Would this be something I should try on this vehicle? I probably will try this soon.

Darksabre

Reducing pinion gear teeth will give you more acceleration and lower top end. While I'm all for supporting your LHS, 25 bucks for a pinion gear is a bit extreme, especially on a truck like the Dominus. For 25 bucks, you can find packs of 3 different sized pinions - it'd give you more to play around with at least. Make sure you get one with the same Mod as the original (not sure what it is), so that it meshes well with the original spur gear.

A larger capacity battery, techncially, shouldnt have anything to do with 'performance' AS LONG AS both batteries are equally matched. As in, theyre both of the same quality, they both start at the same charge voltage, they both have the same discharge capability, etc. His higher mAH battery might have just been a better battery all around than the 1800 mAH.

If you go to LiPo on the Dominus, you will need to either get a different ESC that has a low voltage cutout circuit, or install a low voltage alarm to avoid over-discharging your LiPo's

Darksabre

oops - dupe post

dg4571

I think you misread his comment about the $25, he is saying the 17t motor is $25, at least that is how I read it.

Darksabre

Haha, youre right. Didnt even think about it being a motor at that price (im too used to brushless motors now).

rwek

My Feedback: (1)

Thats exactly what I meant. If I go with the new motor, which I am leaning toward, I will leave the gearing alone at least at first. Depending on how it runs will determine if I play with the gearing.
Regarding the lipo, I do have a lipo alarm which sounds when it gets down to a predetermined level. You can set the voltage level anywhere from 3.0 to 4.0 per cell before it starts screaming like a banshee. I will let you know how it works out when I do either mod. If anyone has done a mod other than going brushless, I would be interested in hearing about it.

Zackattacks

Hi all, I purchased this RC for my son. He has been using for a short time. Replaced batteries now I can get this thing to sink with controller. I have tried and tried. Spoke to store and they suggested a new receiver. Done that still having issues. I'm not even sure if I have the connectors the right way on receiver know. HELP

wanna_be_racer

Hello all.

First off, I'm fully aware this is the SC thread, however, I did not see a need in creating a new Official thread for the TR and figured I'd post here. If I am wrong, and there is in fact a TR thread, please point me in the right direction and ignore this. I'm not trying to create anarchy.

I picked this up for Christmas for the sheer fact that it was $250. So far, it's been an absolute blast. I read up before buying it and bought the slipper with the truck as well as threw in a spare Savox servo I had laying around. Eliminated what seems to be the biggest issues with the truck right off the bat. I took the Reaktor system out and put in a MMp + 5700kv system from my E-Firestorm. It was much too powerful in that rig and I felt this would be a great alternative for the power. I was right on the ball. It's wild on 3s. But a bit of gearing change fixed that to a manageable degree, as well as some programming tweaks on the ESC side.

I've managed to not break anything yet, minus the rear tires coming unglued from 3s power. Truck is much more durable than I figured it would be. Took many a cartwheel and tumble. I've got some 2.8 desperado's and some matching Badlands ordered. Should be here soon.



For my second electric, I'm absolutely impressed. For $250, with the stock setup, I don't think you can beat it for a basher or a beginner. Just my two cents, and figured I'd drop a line.

Boardingrome

Hi guys,

I am pretty new to the hobby. I saw this was the Dominus 10SC forum, so like "_racer" above, I did not want to start a whole new thread for the 10TR.

But I picked this bad boy up new from my local HobbyTownUSA yesterday evening. I did quite a bit of research beforehand, and decided it was a sensible place for me to start. It seems like a great platform for me to upgrade if I choose to take that route.

I got her home, unpacked, and charged up the 1800 NiHM. When I loaded the pack, and started it up, the receiver and transmitter bound instantly. There was no manual action at all on my end. Before heading out and making a run, I tested my controls. I found that all the trim settings were good. Double checked EPA's per the manual, and everything seemed to be correct. When I tested the throttle, I seemed to be getting good forward speed and braking. However I am still not being able to get any reverse throttle at all.

I double checked the manual. I reset the transmitter to the receiver, I made sure EPA's were set, and last went to double check if reverse mode was maybe disabled by default. I found that the ESC was in Reverse Active mode, so it should be functioning as normal. I decided to try it out in Race mode with reverse off, and I find that I can no longer get any regular throttle at all. I slowly pull back on throttle, the car rocks for maybe .5 of a second, and appears to be trying to go backwards. and doesn't make any more movement. Steering is fine.


Any advice? I am rather new to this so i am not the most advanced by any means.

HelionOverkill420

Hi Guys,

I need help picking a pinion. I do not care about speed or acceleration. I just want the best efficient non heating ratio. My goal is to run under 150 degrees.

I have a Dominus 10SC Here are the upgrades:

1/10 castle sidewinder 3 esc and 4600KV motor 50spur 19pinion
(ESC melted so i replaced whole system with 1/8 2200KV castle creations motor and 1/8 ESC 2-6s compatible.)
Thicker oil in shocks. 40w
Thicker grease in differential (Brand:Lucas)
Traxxas 2075 Servo (want to get Savox) Did not know any brands at the time
2s 5800mah Lipo is secondary battery
3s 5000Mah Lipo is primary battery
The car has been taking this motor like a champ...Even though i hear this is a POS lol

Tire 3.75in diamter
35/10 differential spur/Pinion (stock)
50/19 spur/pinion (Stock Spur with 5mm castle creations 19tooth pinion) 32pitch
Weight about 6.5lbs

Let me know if you need any other information and everyones help is appreciated.

PS i got the 1/8 motor and ESC to try to prevent heat and also because my son wants huge tires in the future.



History:
I bought this for my son as his first RC. He is 8 years old. I was impressed with it out of the box but wanted speed so we put some money into the good stuff.(motor and ESC) i figured lets see what this 200$ rc can take until it breaks. I only stripped one spur due to me setting it too tight. Other than that traction is a huge issue obviously but with the Castle link you can lower the power. So please let me know what you guys think that have been in the game for a while. I only have real car mechanic experience.

RustyUs

You got yourself a situation . Your best bet is to grab an infrared thermometer and start with stock gearing, but that 19T pinion gear that came with the Castle motor will be a great starting point if that's all you got. By you adjusting the power from one setting to another, and using different cell count batteries...your temps could/will fluctuate greatly. Be ready for action when you throw the 3S pack in there .

RustyUs

That's awesome! Did you fit that 2200kv bad boy in there yet?