Official Rustler Thread
02-24-2009, 02:03 PM
#5851
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Portland,
OR
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
Which gear determines power vs speed? What would be the difference between having a 25/86 or a 19/86? Or the difference between a 19/76 or a 19/90? I'm a little confused about how the whole concept works. I figure I am going to order some parts here pretty soon, and thought that I had better actually nail down what I am actually looking at.
02-24-2009, 03:04 PM
#5852
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Houston,
TX
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
This is a messed up way to do it but get on a mountain bike or a 10 speed bike. The front gear is what would equate to your motor gearing on the RC. The rear on the bike would be like your Spur gear on the RC.
Get on the bike and put the front gear to the smallest one and the rear to the biggest one. When you take of it will take almost no effort but you will not be able to go fast as you must spin really fast to get there. Leave the back gear alone and switch the front to the middle gear and try again. You will now notice it takes a little more power to get moving and your initial speed is not as quick. Once again leave the back gear on the same chainring and switch the front gear to the largest chainring and do again. Now it is taking more effort to get moving but you are able to go faster and not peddle as fast to do so. I know this is an odd way of explaining but I think it helps when people can actually see and feel the concept behind gearing and then can translate that into how gearing works on your RC.
So a large gear on your motor coupled with a small Spur will mean more work for your motor initially but higher top speed at a lower RPM. A small gear on your motor and large on the rear or Spur will mean real fast start up and a higher spinning RPM with lower top end. This really is why cars and so many other things have multiple speed transmissions so they can try to balance take of speed and torque with tope end speed at a managable RPM. So like where you asked about a 25/86 vs a 19/86 the first would not have as much take off speed but should have better top end. The second should take off faster but not have as much top end speed. Hate to say though both gears determine power and speed as they work together.
Honestly if you can, do the bike thing as the real world feel and experience will show quite a bit.
Get on the bike and put the front gear to the smallest one and the rear to the biggest one. When you take of it will take almost no effort but you will not be able to go fast as you must spin really fast to get there. Leave the back gear alone and switch the front to the middle gear and try again. You will now notice it takes a little more power to get moving and your initial speed is not as quick. Once again leave the back gear on the same chainring and switch the front gear to the largest chainring and do again. Now it is taking more effort to get moving but you are able to go faster and not peddle as fast to do so. I know this is an odd way of explaining but I think it helps when people can actually see and feel the concept behind gearing and then can translate that into how gearing works on your RC.
So a large gear on your motor coupled with a small Spur will mean more work for your motor initially but higher top speed at a lower RPM. A small gear on your motor and large on the rear or Spur will mean real fast start up and a higher spinning RPM with lower top end. This really is why cars and so many other things have multiple speed transmissions so they can try to balance take of speed and torque with tope end speed at a managable RPM. So like where you asked about a 25/86 vs a 19/86 the first would not have as much take off speed but should have better top end. The second should take off faster but not have as much top end speed. Hate to say though both gears determine power and speed as they work together.
Honestly if you can, do the bike thing as the real world feel and experience will show quite a bit.
02-24-2009, 03:11 PM
#5853
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Cedar City,
UT
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
It's a ratio for angular rotation. Do the math, you can use any combination that will fit the truck...
100*Pinion/Spur = #of rotations of the Spur Gear per 100 rotations of the Pinion (50/50 gearing gives you 1:1 ratio)
Lowest- 100*12/90 = 13.33 ( Lots of torque, low top end) - Good for sand, mud, snow, or other high rolling resistance surfaces. (you don't have to go this low, 16/90 is low enough)
Mid 100*19/86 = 22.09 ( Good torque, good speed) - Good for bashing and all around driving
High- 100*25/76 = 32.89 ( Low torque, Lots of speed) - Racing only, no constant stop and go
Highest ?? Anyone know what the highest successful gearing is for a drag racing rustler??
I recommend sticking near the Mid ratio for good power and speed balance. Also, like I said before, gear up a few teeth if you go to bigger tires.
EDIT: For actual speed calculations you can use any number of RC gear calculators, including the one here at RCU. All you need to know is your transmission ratio and the diameter of your tires in inches. (Some of them go as far as adding battery and motor information to calculate far more variables and more accurate speeds.)
Mashers are about 4", stock are about 3.2"
Rustler Tranny Ratio is 2.7
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/gearwizard.cfm]RCU GearWizard[/link]
[link=http://www.easy-rc.com/]Easy-RC Calculators[/link] - A bunch of different calculators, including a better gearing calculator, but it appears to be broken right now? (Might just be FireFox, try it in IE)
100*Pinion/Spur = #of rotations of the Spur Gear per 100 rotations of the Pinion (50/50 gearing gives you 1:1 ratio)
Lowest- 100*12/90 = 13.33 ( Lots of torque, low top end) - Good for sand, mud, snow, or other high rolling resistance surfaces. (you don't have to go this low, 16/90 is low enough)
Mid 100*19/86 = 22.09 ( Good torque, good speed) - Good for bashing and all around driving
High- 100*25/76 = 32.89 ( Low torque, Lots of speed) - Racing only, no constant stop and go
Highest ?? Anyone know what the highest successful gearing is for a drag racing rustler??
I recommend sticking near the Mid ratio for good power and speed balance. Also, like I said before, gear up a few teeth if you go to bigger tires.
EDIT: For actual speed calculations you can use any number of RC gear calculators, including the one here at RCU. All you need to know is your transmission ratio and the diameter of your tires in inches. (Some of them go as far as adding battery and motor information to calculate far more variables and more accurate speeds.)
Mashers are about 4", stock are about 3.2"
Rustler Tranny Ratio is 2.7
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/gearwizard.cfm]RCU GearWizard[/link]
[link=http://www.easy-rc.com/]Easy-RC Calculators[/link] - A bunch of different calculators, including a better gearing calculator, but it appears to be broken right now? (Might just be FireFox, try it in IE)
02-24-2009, 09:03 PM
#5854
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Some where in
Posts: 3,716
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
ORIGINAL: transam388
This is a messed up way to do it but get on a mountain bike or a 10 speed bike. The front gear is what would equate to your motor gearing on the RC. The rear on the bike would be like your Spur gear on the RC.
Get on the bike and put the front gear to the smallest one and the rear to the biggest one. When you take of it will take almost no effort but you will not be able to go fast as you must spin really fast to get there. Leave the back gear alone and switch the front to the middle gear and try again. You will now notice it takes a little more power to get moving and your initial speed is not as quick. Once again leave the back gear on the same chainring and switch the front gear to the largest chainring and do again. Now it is taking more effort to get moving but you are able to go faster and not peddle as fast to do so. I know this is an odd way of explaining but I think it helps when people can actually see and feel the concept behind gearing and then can translate that into how gearing works on your RC.
So a large gear on your motor coupled with a small Spur will mean more work for your motor initially but higher top speed at a lower RPM. A small gear on your motor and large on the rear or Spur will mean real fast start up and a higher spinning RPM with lower top end. This really is why cars and so many other things have multiple speed transmissions so they can try to balance take of speed and torque with tope end speed at a managable RPM. So like where you asked about a 25/86 vs a 19/86 the first would not have as much take off speed but should have better top end. The second should take off faster but not have as much top end speed. Hate to say though both gears determine power and speed as they work together.
Honestly if you can, do the bike thing as the real world feel and experience will show quite a bit.
This is a messed up way to do it but get on a mountain bike or a 10 speed bike. The front gear is what would equate to your motor gearing on the RC. The rear on the bike would be like your Spur gear on the RC.
Get on the bike and put the front gear to the smallest one and the rear to the biggest one. When you take of it will take almost no effort but you will not be able to go fast as you must spin really fast to get there. Leave the back gear alone and switch the front to the middle gear and try again. You will now notice it takes a little more power to get moving and your initial speed is not as quick. Once again leave the back gear on the same chainring and switch the front gear to the largest chainring and do again. Now it is taking more effort to get moving but you are able to go faster and not peddle as fast to do so. I know this is an odd way of explaining but I think it helps when people can actually see and feel the concept behind gearing and then can translate that into how gearing works on your RC.
So a large gear on your motor coupled with a small Spur will mean more work for your motor initially but higher top speed at a lower RPM. A small gear on your motor and large on the rear or Spur will mean real fast start up and a higher spinning RPM with lower top end. This really is why cars and so many other things have multiple speed transmissions so they can try to balance take of speed and torque with tope end speed at a managable RPM. So like where you asked about a 25/86 vs a 19/86 the first would not have as much take off speed but should have better top end. The second should take off faster but not have as much top end speed. Hate to say though both gears determine power and speed as they work together.
Honestly if you can, do the bike thing as the real world feel and experience will show quite a bit.
02-25-2009, 10:24 PM
#5856
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: , CA
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
Hey guys i have a question about servos for this car. My stock ones seem to be getting weeker and weeker and i wanted to know if the servos that come off this car are any better i have an acme condor that whent to crap a few days out of the box. have the older one of these http://www.hobby-estore.com/acme-a30...4wd-buggy.html
02-25-2009, 10:43 PM
#5857
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: florissant,
MO
Posts: 3,715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
I am not really sure what type it is but if it is 1/10 scale it will work. It might or might not be better than stock. You could just get a gear set for the stock servo if that is all you broke. Or buy a nice metal gear servo for 30+ dollars.
02-25-2009, 11:01 PM
#5859
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 1,996
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
Servo motors tend to wear out with time and the servo wont turn as well, even if there's no damage to the gears.
You want something with at least 100 oz/in of torque. I think 140 oz/in would be work much better though. I have a Futaba S3010 in mine and it does a better job than the stock Traxxas servo did, but a little more torque would be nice. It's only rated at 90 oz/in at 6.0V.
You want something with at least 100 oz/in of torque. I think 140 oz/in would be work much better though. I have a Futaba S3010 in mine and it does a better job than the stock Traxxas servo did, but a little more torque would be nice. It's only rated at 90 oz/in at 6.0V.
02-25-2009, 11:04 PM
#5860
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: , CA
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
i just want to know if i can reuse these well i know i can just are they any good i found out what there called been looking on the net cant find any thing
3kg Servo B1026 acme
3kg Servo B1026 acme
02-25-2009, 11:09 PM
#5861
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: florissant,
MO
Posts: 3,715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
Well if you have the servo already you might as well try it. I use this servo so I don't really have to worry about anything . It is waterproof, high speed, metal gear, and best of all digital and programmable. Not bad for 50 bucks really.
[link]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ76&P=ML[/link]
The rustler does not need a whole lot of speed or torque really to move the tires. They are small and this servo has no problem moving them. I turn mine down actually due to over steering constantly. You need high torque for bigger MT's but not really the rustler.
. It is waterproof, high speed, metal gear, and best of all digital and programmable. Not bad for 50 bucks really. [link]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ76&P=ML[/link]
The rustler does not need a whole lot of speed or torque really to move the tires. They are small and this servo has no problem moving them. I turn mine down actually due to over steering constantly. You need high torque for bigger MT's but not really the rustler.
02-26-2009, 10:06 AM
#5863
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Some where in
Posts: 3,716
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
ORIGINAL: FairTax4me
Servo motors tend to wear out with time and the servo wont turn as well, even if there's no damage to the gears.
You want something with at least 100 oz/in of torque. I think 140 oz/in would be work much better though. I have a Futaba S3010 in mine and it does a better job than the stock Traxxas servo did, but a little more torque would be nice. It's only rated at 90 oz/in at 6.0V.
Servo motors tend to wear out with time and the servo wont turn as well, even if there's no damage to the gears.
You want something with at least 100 oz/in of torque. I think 140 oz/in would be work much better though. I have a Futaba S3010 in mine and it does a better job than the stock Traxxas servo did, but a little more torque would be nice. It's only rated at 90 oz/in at 6.0V.
02-26-2009, 10:08 AM
#5864
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Some where in
Posts: 3,716
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
ORIGINAL: fusebmx13
The rustler does not need a whole lot of speed or torque really to move the tires. They are small and this servo has no problem moving them. I turn mine down actually due to over steering constantly. You need high torque for bigger MT's but not really the rustler.
The rustler does not need a whole lot of speed or torque really to move the tires. They are small and this servo has no problem moving them. I turn mine down actually due to over steering constantly. You need high torque for bigger MT's but not really the rustler.
02-26-2009, 01:08 PM
#5865
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 1,996
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
ORIGINAL: warheadforever
LOL mine is rated at 40 OZ/IN at 6 volt and that was 9 years ago. LOL I need a new one....
LOL mine is rated at 40 OZ/IN at 6 volt and that was 9 years ago. LOL I need a new one....
I just wrecked my Rustler. (again) According to the DX3S, it was going 43mph, and I ran over a curb with it.
Only thing that really broke was eyelet on the bottom of the left rear shock. It also tweaked the shock shaft, but it still moves smooth so I don't really care. It's geared 30/78, with an 8 cell EnerG 4600 pack.
02-26-2009, 07:12 PM
#5866
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 1,996
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
I have a new top speed of 56 mph, an un-glued tire, a cracked wheel, a chipped wheel, a MIA hinge screw pin, and a shattered wheelie bar mount.
One of the rear tires came un-glued on about the 6th speed run, which created a vibration that shook one of the hinge pins out. Then the truck spun around 3 times, and slid backwards into the curb at about 25 mph. I couldn't find all of the pieces of the mount, nor the hinge pin. All in all, a successfully un-successful run.
One of the rear tires came un-glued on about the 6th speed run, which created a vibration that shook one of the hinge pins out. Then the truck spun around 3 times, and slid backwards into the curb at about 25 mph. I couldn't find all of the pieces of the mount, nor the hinge pin. All in all, a successfully un-successful run.
02-26-2009, 11:26 PM
#5867
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Petaluma,
CA
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
Here are some pics of my rustler...hope u guys like it. comments good and bad are welcome.
This one I know the decale isn't centered perfectly. I'm still learning.
Hope u like it!
This one I know the decale isn't centered perfectly. I'm still learning.
Hope u like it!
02-27-2009, 09:06 AM
#5872
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: florissant,
MO
Posts: 3,715
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
Yea my hobby shop has some really cheap tires to. It would be 24 bucks for a full set of tires and rims!!! It is just the adapters that I don't want to buy because they are close to 40 bucks for the flm ones.
02-27-2009, 10:56 AM
#5873
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Houston,
TX
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
I like the way you did the roll cage in the bright orange against the silver and black. Just stands out nicely IMHO! [8D]
Those tires do look nice and hearing they stick well is good. i may have to get some of those also!
Those tires do look nice and hearing they stick well is good. i may have to get some of those also!
02-28-2009, 01:22 PM
#5875
Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Albany,
NY
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Official Rustler Thread
Can some one help me with the VXL ESC. It had been working fine until the other day. I'll walk through the scenario. When I plug in the battery (LiPo) the ESC light turns green without me turning it on with the button. The truck works fine then I hold the button down for 3 seconds to turn off and the light goes out, the steering still works but the throttle doesn't. If I want to turn the ESC back on I can't unless I unplug battery then plug back in and the process starts over again.