losifiend

I did the same. First RPM product I have ever broken. I have all PRM parts on mine with the exclusion of skid plates, rear carriers, and rear arms. I even use RPM narrow offset rock crawlers rims in black. They fit great and look awsome.

Dialed_In

Thanks for your reply FairTax4me. I didn't see any CRC electronics cleaner at wally world tonight when I looked in the automotive section. I'll have to get to autozone soon and have a look. I'll also look into Royal Purple when I place my next online order.

Cheers

Budget Monty

There are definately some parts I would not buy in aluminum because I could see bending. Are people actually bending these aluminum traxxas brand rear bearing carriers? Or is it just the group mentality that infusing the idea that "Everything aluminum bends" That I always see on these forums? I have not seen any mention of people bending these carriers.

slotracer

Does Traxxas still use the pin thru the axle setup to keep the wheels from slipping like on the Bandit?

fusebmx13

yes they do. The slash has a pin that goes through the stub axle and then a hex fits over that and the hex fits into the wheel.

Sorimatsu

hey what is the best way to get the long front a arm rods out? (the ones which the two e clips attach to) just bent both of them trying to get them out. (they didnt want to move)

FairTax4me

Dialed, here's a link to that oil. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJY55&P=7

Trxsnewbie, They were already bent, that's why they're being such a pita. Grab onto them with a pair of pliers or even vice grips if you have to, and twist and pull, they'll come out eventually.

Sorimatsu

o that would have been nice to know lol, threw them away [:@] well i gotta go to the hobby shop to get e clips anyway so ill pick some up. would WD-40 help them go in easier?

FairTax4me

If you have a set of metric drill bits you can drill the holes out just ever so slightly larger and that will help, but too much will make them loose cause a lot of play in the arm. If your LHS has it, get a bottle of O'Donnell racing O' lube. It's a liquid wax lubricant, that works wonders on ball cup joints, Hinge pins, telescoping axle shafts, you name it. Dirt wont stick to it, and it makes everything you put it on slick as snot. Awesome stuff. Put some of that stuff on there and it should help.

lestatsghost

i've been using super tech brake parts cleaner to clean my motor. no oily residue because it is to clean your breaks. haven't had any problem with it. just keep the bushings lubed after use, just like if you used the trinity motor cleaner. $2.48 at wally world here.

lestatsghost

Slash owners in Colorado and Kansas

Dirtworks RC track in Burlington, CO is having a race Sat April 25 and they are going to have a Slash Spec Class. only mods allowed for this race are gearing, shock oil, and radio. they need at least 5 people signed up to run. if you want to signup go to rcsignup.com

wookie_racer

My Feedback: (8)

well my girl made one of my body ideas into a rendering using a template and paint shop pro. it will have more sponsor logos. i was thinking of using some of the sponsors that dont really do off-road stuff like TEIN and such....just to be a 'lil different.

digdog

I think I saw that it was 200$

Dialed_In

Thanks guys! Does anyone else use brake parts cleaner on their electric motor?

FairTax4me

I prefer not to because brake cleaner is VERY strong stuff, and it's not very agreeable with certain plastics, or paint. Not that you can't use it, I'm sure plenty of people do, just not my preference.

Dialed_In

Thanks again for your help FairTax4me .

Also, what other changes would you all make to a stock Slash that runs on asphalt (for now)? I did what the manual said and moved the rear shocks to the middle holes and the front shocks to the outer holes and added the 4mm spacers to the front shocks. I finally rolled my Slash twice on my 4th time out but once was due to a makeshift 45 degree ramp I built, the other roll was due to turning too fast on pavement.

Budget Monty

I saw that the manual suggested adding that spacer to the front for on-road running, which I think is just flat out bad advice. You are not making the suspension any stiffer by doing this, you are just raising the ride height, not something I would recommend for pavement. I would run it as low as you can deal with, and run stiffer springs with the shocks mounted at the outermost settings at the bottoms. 40-50W shock oil as well.

samguan

YES you are making the spring stiffer by adding shock spacers, but at the same time you are raising the ride height of the truck

fusebmx13

Preload spacers do not change the stiffness of the spring. They only change the ride height which would make the handling even worse onroad.

If you want a killer onroad setup, get some anacondas, put fuel tubing under the pistons, and lower the truck as low as you can. Get a more airodynamic body and maybe the outlaw chassis. Get a MM / 7700 and a 3s and you will blow past everyone.

pede_187

Actually, pre-load spacers or collars do change the stiffness. And [link=http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii60/pede_kid/?action=view&current=Movie_0032.flv]here[/link] is my proof.

Budget Monty

False. Unless you are adding so many spacers that the spring does not compress any when you set the truck on the ground, which would be pre-loading, and is just a horrible idea.

04DarkShadowGT

That video doesn't prove anything. All it is measuring is how hard he pushes down on the shock. That is so far from being a legitimate test its funny.


The pre-load spacers do not change the stiffness of the springs, they change the pre-load. As the name implies you are putting a load on the springs which can remove some of the slop or sag.

fusebmx13

Yea that video is way out of wack man. You could have just pressed harder and it would have read more. Not very scientific if you ask me.

Dialed_In

Thanks for the asphalt help everyone. Also an interesting discussion on the spacers. So the spacer only preloads the spring but would a spring rubber (nascar) stiffen the suspension. I doubt they make them for RC and it would be easier to just use a stiffer spring. I was just curious.

About the bump stops, how long do you usually make them? They go on the lowest part of the shock shaft correct?

Also, my goal is to keep the truck from rolling over on asphalt. I'm not building a speed demon. I've helped with setting up 1:1 dirt track modifieds on scales and I'm trying to relate what we did to it to the Slash. How do I lower ride height besides removing preload spacers and/or moving the lower shock mounts outward?

Thanks

FairTax4me

Shorter shocks, or put a piece of fuel tubing under the piston inside the shock so it can't rebound the full length of the shaft.

Ok we can see that you pressed down harder. Real scientific.

Here's some real science. Adding preload does NOT increase spring tension. Of course it's gonna be harder to push down when you are fully depressing the spring. Maybe you didn't notice, but in the first try, the spring did NOT fully compress.