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King Motors Baja Review with pictures

Old 01-18-2009, 07:30 PM
  #1251  
victory-rc
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Default RE: King Motors Baja Review with pictures

The top end kits are the BEST thing out there ...no im not a salesman LOL
I have the 28.5 top end kit for about $75...The headkit fits the chung yang motors fine. its feels like TWICE the power of a 23 cc motor...its unreal.Look under your plastic headcover,it will say chung yang under it like this->

Old 01-18-2009, 08:06 PM
  #1252  
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Default RE: King Motors Baja Review with pictures

if of course the engine was a CY and not a knock off engine in most clones
I think beckiesbajas should know the time line for them 1 piece knock off engines
Old 01-18-2009, 09:38 PM
  #1253  
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ORIGINAL: srt10

Anyone tried E-85 in their Baja?

that is a good question. doesn't that fuel also burn better than gasoline?


also benkie, if you were to smash ALL of the savage shocks to pieces, it would only cost $15-$25. if you needed a pair of baja shocks, it would cost around $80.

also, if you were to ruin a diff on a savage, the metal cased complete diff can be had for $15. on a baja, the metal diff costs around $100.
Old 01-18-2009, 09:47 PM
  #1254  
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and now this is the reason why 1/5 scale is bigger right? (Hpi =High Price Industry) like a car 1:1 scale even bigger money
so in conclusion scarletboa run the hell out of savages and save up for the next parts replace like benkie showed. this way scarletboa,
you can continue your bashing remember in the 1/5th scale it like you kinda are not only paying for quality parts your paying for the Name.....good Example . Cadillac
Old 01-19-2009, 05:05 AM
  #1255  
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Default RE: King Motors Baja Review with pictures


ORIGINAL: lords

if of course the engine was a CY and not a knock off engine in most clones
I think beckiesbajas should know the time line for them 1 piece knock off engines

the km engines are not cy and never have been cy engines and will never be cy enigines

the km engines do not have chung yang in the head covers

well over 6 months ago the engines changed, it was hard to tell as they where mixed with cy clone and the one bit crank case clones.

and it depends of where you brought them from and how old the stock is so its hard to give and proper date and time and km never mentioned they changes and for a while said they never changed.

some guys have been having alot of trouble fitting 28.5cc (gp290 heads kits) to the new clone engine in the km.

i personaly have not bother with selling, buying any kms since, as with my own eyes if seent he new engines fly to bits in less then one tank, ive had them fly to bits after 3 tanks and had a few last upto 15 tanks running ritch, but i have heard of guys runnign them longer.

most failed due to bearing failure and parts breaking of the heads, and the carbs on the engines i have personaly tested, i could adjust the hi speed needle 1 turn either way and it would mark not difrence to the cars running lols.

not to mention airleaks, i will say the new engine has more power, but thats about it, and to get the most power out of them you need to strip them down and pull the gaskit goo out of them and regaskit and bearing them.

im sorry but ive got nothing good to say about the new engines, but the engines i have pulled down, put new gaskits shorter carb bolts new bearings and ajusted the engines squish go blody hard core, but the carbs lack tuniblity, my mates is done over 10 tanks and is now starting to loose power do the the bore being scratched up.

so in my personal opinion, the ned a new carb so a 668 carb 45 usd and a head kit is 75 usd so a 120 usd, but you still have a dodgy crank case dodgy crank bearings and seals and crank.

so if your going to to head kit an engine you need new crank gaskit, new crank bearings, new crank seals and a new head kit, and to get the most out of the more powerful head kit, you might as well thro away the km dodgy carb and your upto 140 usd

so if you going to spend 140 usd on head kitting a crap clone motor why not take my advise and scrap the km engine and buy a complete new cy engine ?

i will not recomend any one to an an upgrade head kit and not replace bearings or atlest gaskits and oils seals on the crank.
Old 01-19-2009, 05:25 AM
  #1256  
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Default RE: King Motors Baja Review with pictures


ORIGINAL: scarletboa


ORIGINAL: srt10

Anyone tried E-85 in their Baja?

that is a good question. doesn't that fuel also burn better than gasoline?


also benkie, if you were to smash ALL of the savage shocks to pieces, it would only cost $15-$25. if you needed a pair of baja shocks, it would cost around $80.

also, if you were to ruin a diff on a savage, the metal cased complete diff can be had for $15. on a baja, the metal diff costs around $100.

yes but your not reading my post i have owned savages

yes the savage will always be cheaper but i still think you blowing the price of of proportion alot.

if you bust two front shocks to fix two using hpi parts would be $23.00 usd

http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl?c=88...shock%20repair

if you where to bust two rear shock to replace them with hpi parts $30 usd

http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...it.A/id.617/.f

im not sure where you got $ $80 usd for one shock, and if i was to bust a stock shock i would not replace it with a stock shock unless i had a realy good run out of it or unless i could afford other wise

but if you where to spend $65 on the 2 shocks you would have to worry about replacing them for a long time, this is what im talking about.

http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...t.A/id.3631/.f

if you damaged one or more shocks on your km or hpi baja you would be silly to buy a pair of stock shocks for $80 usd !!!

you would only buy replacemnt shafts $16 usd

http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...it.A/id.396/.f

or is you lost the plastic shock parts and couldnt find them $15

http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...it.A/id.264/.f

and like i said three times befor yes more expence then the savage but cheaper then your 80 usd

the diff are not cheap, the key is to0 look after them, and if you cant look after them like me you spend $100 usd on just a diff case and rebuild them using new parts it works out to 150 usd but its cheaper then replacing a couple of diffs over time.

and for all you people winging that they are some dam expencive and oh the cost to much i cant afford to run it ouch as shock cost 80 usd.

all i can say to that is like any one befor you buy some thing you check of replacement parts and the average cost on itmes you would normaly replace on other rc cars you have and you check will people who, have run them and own them, befor you rush out and buy them or you will be sitting aroud on your computer, saying but they are so much more expencive and they cost to much im now longer can afford to drive it.

in m opion 5 lters of 30% nitro cost me $50 aud, for 5 ltres of 98 octain unleaded for my baja cost me $6 aud, in 12 months or regluar bashing my baja has payed for its self with nitro.

now im not going to argue over parts cost and price, i has showed you cheap parts and parts need to replace the shocks you mentioned.

i will not help people who will not help them selfs and this is getting a bit sleepish as i said all this befor, head kits shocks and upgrade parts, in other post.




Old 01-21-2009, 02:58 PM
  #1257  
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Default RE: King Motors Baja Review with pictures

ORIGINAL: beckiesbajas


ORIGINAL: lords

if of course the engine was a CY and not a knock off engine in most clones
I think beckiesbajas should know the time line for them 1 piece knock off engines

the km engines are not cy and never have been cy engines and will never be cy enigines

the km engines do not have chung yang in the head covers

well over 6 months ago the engines changed, it was hard to tell as they where mixed with cy clone and the one bit crank case clones.

and it depends of where you brought them from and how old the stock is so its hard to give and proper date and time and km never mentioned they changes and for a while said they never changed.

some guys have been having alot of trouble fitting 28.5cc (gp290 heads kits) to the new clone engine in the km.

i personaly have not bother with selling, buying any kms since, as with my own eyes if seent he new engines fly to bits in less then one tank, ive had them fly to bits after 3 tanks and had a few last upto 15 tanks running ritch, but i have heard of guys runnign them longer.

most failed due to bearing failure and parts breaking of the heads, and the carbs on the engines i have personaly tested, i could adjust the hi speed needle 1 turn either way and it would mark not difrence to the cars running lols.

not to mention airleaks, i will say the new engine has more power, but thats about it, and to get the most power out of them you need to strip them down and pull the gaskit goo out of them and regaskit and bearing them.

im sorry but ive got nothing good to say about the new engines, but the engines i have pulled down, put new gaskits shorter carb bolts new bearings and ajusted the engines squish go blody hard core, but the carbs lack tuniblity, my mates is done over 10 tanks and is now starting to loose power do the the bore being scratched up.

so in my personal opinion, the ned a new carb so a 668 carb 45 usd and a head kit is 75 usd so a 120 usd, but you still have a dodgy crank case dodgy crank bearings and seals and crank.

so if your going to to head kit an engine you need new crank gaskit, new crank bearings, new crank seals and a new head kit, and to get the most out of the more powerful head kit, you might as well thro away the km dodgy carb and your upto 140 usd

so if you going to spend 140 usd on head kitting a crap clone motor why not take my advise and scrap the km engine and buy a complete new cy engine ?

i will not recomend any one to an an upgrade head kit and not replace bearings or atlest gaskits and oils seals on the crank.

Thank's for the great info!
I'm one of the so called "Due to the Economy Lay Offs"
So I went with a 27cc Head kit from DDM and Copper Head Gasket.. 50 bucks..
I'll run it for a while and let you all know how it does.. My stock KM went 38.3mph on my GPS during the 2nd tank and then the motor came apart on the 3rd tank..
I live at 4990ft elevation, so I think the 38.3mph is not to bad..
Who knows, maybe into the second tank with this head kit I might just go get the g290..

Thanks again for every ones help on this thread..
Old 01-22-2009, 05:08 AM
  #1258  
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Default RE: King Motors Baja Review with pictures

if you engine made it to 4 or 5 tanks it should of been faster as it runs in, but 40 mph is nothing to laugh at. i used to get 50 to 55mph out of a modified cy with a 28,5cc gp290 head 668 carb and speed gears 18/56.

when replacing the heads it pays to put new brearings and crank seals and crank gaskit.

as half the trouble from an engine failing can be oil seals/gaskits ( leaking and running lean) or bad crank bearings ( metal getting sucked up in the top of the head) .

if i rebubild a motor or even replace a ring, i replace the piston pin bearing, new gaskits new bearings and new oild seals, as it pays to to eliminate all future problems and ensure i get the most life and performance i can push out of them, but thats just me.

let us know how you go with the 27cc head kit, all the best
Old 01-22-2009, 12:10 PM
  #1259  
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Thanks, wish I lived at sea level to see what this buggy can really do..
Old 01-23-2009, 02:03 AM
  #1260  
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40 mph is about the tops out of a stocker unless it running to lean
Old 01-24-2009, 07:33 PM
  #1261  
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Ok, I got my kit today and put the new piston and cylinder together. Things did not go so well.. The piston was hitting the top of the cylinder so I had to do some mods to get it to work. Hope I did it right!

And also found my problem was the cause of a bearing failure! Ahh!
cheap looking bearing...
Old 01-24-2009, 08:10 PM
  #1262  
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ORIGINAL: srt10

Ok, I got my kit today and put the new piston and cylinder together. Things did not go so well.. The piston was hitting the top of the cylinder so I had to do some mods to get it to work. Hope I did it right!

And also found my problem was the cause of a bearing failure! Ahh!
cheap looking bearing...

its normaly bearing failure that kills thems
Old 01-25-2009, 01:46 PM
  #1263  
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ok so i just did the break in on my baja, it only took the local hobby two weeks to get the oil in for me but i wasn't in that big of a rush, so i got the oil fridday and the gas today i was really surprised the thing even ran outside seeing it is only 10*f. the only problem i had was when it got down to past a half a tank if i would put it hard into a corner it would die. this happened like three times but started up evry time it died i got like 35-40 minutes run time and the throttle response was good. And to make it's maiden voyage a complete success just before it ran out of gas i did an evel kaneivel over a snow bank and landed the whole car on the right rear tire and it broke so it was a complete success. one more thing the baja tires and bead lock rings will go on hpi wheels right. thanks, all you guys have beeen extremely helpful in this km baja adventure. matt
Old 01-25-2009, 08:25 PM
  #1264  
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Ok, I got the head kit on and the first pull, WOW! Major difference in compression..

Ok I took it out to break in the motor and it was running great for about 1min then it started sounding like it was misfiring? then it ran ok then it was bogging and almost cutting out? Whats UP! Still love the hobby, but dang this kinda sucks....

I'm using premium fuel and 25:1 AmsOil and sent added to fuel,

Root Beer Yum!
Old 01-25-2009, 08:50 PM
  #1265  
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ORIGINAL: hotrodlincoln886

ok so i just did the break in on my baja, it only took the local hobby two weeks to get the oil in for me but i wasn't in that big of a rush, so i got the oil fridday and the gas today i was really surprised the thing even ran outside seeing it is only 10*f. the only problem i had was when it got down to past a half a tank if i would put it hard into a corner it would die. this happened like three times but started up evry time it died i got like 35-40 minutes run time and the throttle response was good. And to make it's maiden voyage a complete success just before it ran out of gas i did an evel kaneivel over a snow bank and landed the whole car on the right rear tire and it broke so it was a complete success. one more thing the baja tires and bead lock rings will go on hpi wheels right. thanks, all you guys have beeen extremely helpful in this km baja adventure. matt

sounds like it might be fuel lock drill the beather oil out slighty bigger on your fuel cap and make the split in the rubber in the rubber gromet slightly bigger also, this has happened to me and a fair few km ownes.

if its not that might be your carb.

the km baja beedlocks will fit on hpi rims but i recoment using hpi beedlock screws with the km beedlocks on hpi rims (wheels)
Old 01-25-2009, 08:52 PM
  #1266  
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Default RE: King Motors Baja Review with pictures

Adjust your low speed and highspeed needles by 1/16 increments.check also your spark plug if it keeps on misfiring.if your bogging at low speed adjust your low speed needle clockwise by 1/16 of a turn.if your bogging after coming in from a high speed run . adjust your high speed needle clockwise or otherwise by 1/16 of a turn.Also check your throttle if its on the right position.90 deg on the servo arm.
Old 01-25-2009, 08:52 PM
  #1267  
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ORIGINAL: srt10

Ok, I got the head kit on and the first pull, WOW! Major difference in compression..

Ok I took it out to break in the motor and it was running great for about 1min then it started sounding like it was misfiring? then it ran ok then it was bogging and almost cutting out? Whats UP! Still love the hobby, but dang this kinda sucks....

I'm using premium fuel and 25:1 AmsOil and sent added to fuel,

Root Beer Yum!
if it was running fine at the start then whent like that, it dont sound like carb tune, as if it was a carb tune it would of been crab from the start and still crab and the end.

and with the km carb its hard to give you a base settings as they are all difrent and most are not tunible

sounds like an airleak, if it was running good then whent stuffed, but its hard to tell with out beeing there and hearing it.

also if it has to much compression you could cracked the head, and with will sound funny for a bit then die.

if you want a nice smelling good oil use motul oil it smells nice with out added any thing
Old 01-25-2009, 08:56 PM
  #1268  
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welcome to 1/5 scale 2 stroke engines, you can see why i sugested a full complete motor for you. not saying you cant do it, but its easyer and youll have a well build motor to start with
Old 01-25-2009, 09:00 PM
  #1269  
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ORIGINAL: Beds_148

Adjust your low speed and highspeed needles by 1/16 increments.check also your spark plug if it keeps on misfiring.if your bogging at low speed adjust your low speed needle clockwise by 1/16 of a turn.if your bogging after coming in from a high speed run . adjust your high speed needle clockwise or otherwise by 1/16 of a turn.Also check your throttle if its on the right position.90 deg on the servo arm.

you might find some km carbs will niot respond to 1/16 adjustments unfortunaly
Old 01-25-2009, 09:02 PM
  #1270  
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if you have castrol oil use it as it well not deposit carbon on your piston and pipes.BTW check your carb for airleak. tighten the carb screws until you feel it snug. If it has an airleak on the carb gasket replace it. If you dont have available gasket you can use a brown folder , cut it like the orignal gasket and it will work fine. Ive tried it on my other baja and it is inexpensive and works well. Other thing, to minimize clutch shoe wear, turn and place the clutch show the other way around. the arrow will now be inside.It will feel much better once you hit the throttle and will save you extra $$$$.
Old 01-25-2009, 09:07 PM
  #1271  
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yup.. KM carbs are sometimes pain in the ....sss to tune...but you could try it and see if its works .If it not... then go for the much reliable CY /zenoah engines.
Old 01-25-2009, 09:24 PM
  #1272  
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to true try it, i was worried that our fellow baja bash would spend 50 usd on a head kit to find out it was a carb or airleak on a seal that cause the original engine fail, then need to spend more on gaskits bearings and seal an made even a carb ( recomended) and the cost and time would soon add up to a better more relible engine.

i love building my own engines i realy enjoy it, and have done it many times, but my wife brought me a zen G270RC 26cc engine as a present for my baja, so out came my custom 30.5cc and in with the new zen.

the G270RC has had 25 tanks at 25:1 of motul 2 t off road oil and pulls wheelies and ive never had to adjust the carb on it.

you will be amazed the difrence a reible cy or zen engine will make to a baja and the fun you will have
Old 01-25-2009, 10:41 PM
  #1273  
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ORIGINAL: beckiesbajas

to true try it, i was worried that our fellow baja bash would spend 50 usd on a head kit to find out it was a carb or airleak on a seal that cause the original engine fail, then need to spend more on gaskits bearings and seal an made even a carb ( recomended) and the cost and time would soon add up to a better more relible engine.

i love building my own engines i realy enjoy it, and have done it many times, but my wife brought me a zen G270RC 26cc engine as a present for my baja, so out came my custom 30.5cc and in with the new zen.

the G270RC has had 25 tanks at 25:1 of motul 2 t off road oil and pulls wheelies and ive never had to adjust the carb on it.

you will be amazed the difrence a reible cy or zen engine will make to a baja and the fun you will have
Your like the big brother I never had! Thanks for all the great advise... I went with the $50 CY 26.9cc big bore kit, because I'm out of work due to our economy.. But you talk about your Zen so much that it must be good! I went back to stock settings on the carb and will see what happens.. The sound I was hearing was like a cracking when the motors was getting some revs? Sounded like a misfire? I did have to mill the top of the piston to get it not to hit the top of the cylinder, so I know the clearance has to be tight?
Old 01-25-2009, 11:08 PM
  #1274  
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ORIGINAL: srt10


ORIGINAL: beckiesbajas

to true try it, i was worried that our fellow baja bash would spend 50 usd on a head kit to find out it was a carb or airleak on a seal that cause the original engine fail, then need to spend more on gaskits bearings and seal an made even a carb ( recomended) and the cost and time would soon add up to a better more relible engine.

i love building my own engines i realy enjoy it, and have done it many times, but my wife brought me a zen G270RC 26cc engine as a present for my baja, so out came my custom 30.5cc and in with the new zen.

the G270RC has had 25 tanks at 25:1 of motul 2 t off road oil and pulls wheelies and ive never had to adjust the carb on it.

you will be amazed the difrence a reible cy or zen engine will make to a baja and the fun you will have
Your like the big brother I never had! Thanks for all the great advise... I went with the $50 CY 26.9cc big bore kit, because I'm out of work due to our economy.. But you talk about your Zen so much that it must be good! I went back to stock settings on the carb and will see what happens.. The sound I was hearing was like a cracking when the motors was getting some revs? Sounded like a misfire? I did have to mill the top of the piston to get it not to hit the top of the cylinder, so I know the clearance has to be tight?

ive been cut back from 10 working days a fortnite to 5 working days a fortnite, so it sucks money is very tight now.

sorry i talked so much about the zen i just lvoe it dam not cheap though, but 25 tanks of fun, not carb ajustments and no rebuilds so im happy.

i still love my gp290 28.5cc motors or the torque monster 30.5cc cy motors also and you cant beat a cheap 23cc cy motor either.

the crackling could be running ritch slighty and its 4 stroking, as i said befor its hard as i cant see it or hear it if you vould give more infor it would help, or even some sound or video ?

as all i can go on is personal expernce, i recently had a 30.5 missing on full revs, turns out it was a oil seal, but a guy one another furom had the same drammer and it was the carb.

milling the top of the piston might not of been the best idea, but as long as it works, some times you have to stack gaskits (not the best idea either) to get the right squish.

squish is the gap from the head to the piston of full stroke.

the squish wants to be around 20 ish so 0.020 if i rember corectly, they way to measure this is by using thine solder ( the stuff you join electrical wirse with) and feed that into the head though the spark plug hole, you want it on the side around the ring that runs around the top inside the of the head.

then you slowly pull over the motor (start it) with out the spark plug in and the solder inside the head, once you have down that you pull the solder out and measure the squished solder with a caliper or vernier set and see what the squish is you want it around 20 (0.020)

but lowering the squish youc an creat more power, more compesion and motor heat, by raising the squish you can get more revs, but this gets all complicated.

with not enought squish clearnce from the piston to the top of the head, it can crack heads and make a funny noise lols.
Old 01-25-2009, 11:23 PM
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benckiesbajas
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Location: perth, , AUSTRALIA
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Default RE: King Motors Baja Review with pictures

if i remmber correctly the stock km head gaskit is higher then 0.060

a stock cy or zen engine head gaskits are 0.020

a stoke 29 and 30.5cc engine gaskits is 0.060 unless the head has been machined for the correct clearnce.

and if you only ued the stock papper gaskit you got with the head kit i would say the piston would hit the top of the head

so if i was going to put a stock cy head on the km crank i would use around 4 papper gaskits to get the clearnce then i would check the squish.

if you use 4 stock papper gaskits and the piston does not hit the head i would then measure the squish clearnce as mentioned in my above post.

if this is to much trouble and stuffing aound witch it is i would just use as many gaskits as you can to make the same size as the stock km gaskit you would of pulled off and try that if you pull the engine over with no spark plug and the psiton didnt hit the head, try runnign that.

or i would buy a lottory ticket and if you win i would pull the km engine out smash it with a hammer and buy a decent engine you dont had to do this crap to.

i hope this makes sence ?

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