C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
#4126
#4129
#4131
My Feedback: (1)
Is the main tank and wing tank 100 oz? I would have thought it would be more. I have not flown my ultra flash yet it is ready to go though.
I have another 140 in another airplane with a 100 oz tank. @ 14 oz minute that would be approx 7 minutes.
I wonder how many oz are in the main tank only. anyone know?
I have another 140 in another airplane with a 100 oz tank. @ 14 oz minute that would be approx 7 minutes.
I wonder how many oz are in the main tank only. anyone know?
#4132
#4135
That is really pushing it. I had a 160sx, which gets better fuel consumption and I was nearly empty after 7 min of mild throttle usage.
#4136
Thread Starter
I can fly any 120-140 UF 9 minutes, without just doing circuits. I'm sure if you look the videos early on are all around that, plus I don't use taxi tanks!
I have always seem to get better economy than a lot of people, I'm very on-off the throttle, 1/4 stick to full is my flying range, any less and you will be on the power harder and longer to get it going again, I back off whenever I can from the top. Being a heli flyer I'd say the throttle is my most active control.
My timer was set for 9 minutes, so sometimes I'd land over that, If I have a harder flight (faster) I automatically cut it shorter, but still doing 8 minutes I guess.
I have seen friends empty the tanks in 7-7.30 minutes, and can see what they are doing with the throttle, leaving lots of power on when its not needed.
Using my preferred 2 felt clunk set up, I am left with 1/2" of fuel in the main tank (with the tank level, so nose fractionally off the ground) and almost no air in the MAP Bubble Trap
I have always seem to get better economy than a lot of people, I'm very on-off the throttle, 1/4 stick to full is my flying range, any less and you will be on the power harder and longer to get it going again, I back off whenever I can from the top. Being a heli flyer I'd say the throttle is my most active control.
My timer was set for 9 minutes, so sometimes I'd land over that, If I have a harder flight (faster) I automatically cut it shorter, but still doing 8 minutes I guess.
I have seen friends empty the tanks in 7-7.30 minutes, and can see what they are doing with the throttle, leaving lots of power on when its not needed.
Using my preferred 2 felt clunk set up, I am left with 1/2" of fuel in the main tank (with the tank level, so nose fractionally off the ground) and almost no air in the MAP Bubble Trap
#4137
My Feedback: (1)
I recently bought a Jeti radio system. I am using it on my Tutor. I hooked up a MUI 30 which keeps track of MAH's used by the fuel pump and sends it to the transmitter. I made a few flights and when there was enough fuel for two go arounds left I set that number of used mah in the transmitter. It has voice so now when the fuel tank reaches that level a voice comes on and says reserve fuel 3 times..
It will also tell me if I have a flame out.
I plan on putting one in my UF also.
All the radio systems are changing rapidly and it won't be long before all radios will have this. I think I paid around 37 dollars for the MUI 30.
Guesswork on fuel consumption is on it's way out.
Stan
It will also tell me if I have a flame out.
I plan on putting one in my UF also.
All the radio systems are changing rapidly and it won't be long before all radios will have this. I think I paid around 37 dollars for the MUI 30.
Guesswork on fuel consumption is on it's way out.
Stan
Last edited by tucson; 05-02-2014 at 05:49 AM.
#4138
Hey guy's i'm in the middle of the Ultra build and today was filling up the tanks to check for leaks.While there was no leaks I noticed the main doesn't fill totally with the baffle in the middle.
Is this just how it is or should there be passage holes at the top like there is on the bottom of the baffle?
Or maybe im doing something wrong.
Pete
Is this just how it is or should there be passage holes at the top like there is on the bottom of the baffle?
Or maybe im doing something wrong.
Pete
#4139
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: holland, NETHERLANDS
Posts: 474
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That's not the way it should be. There should be leaks
Got my tanks out as we speak cause i'm in the middle of the nose repair.
On the top side of the baffle there is an hole in mine.
Cheers,
Ed
Ps. what's that green stuff in there?? lemonade??
Got my tanks out as we speak cause i'm in the middle of the nose repair.
On the top side of the baffle there is an hole in mine.
Cheers,
Ed
Ps. what's that green stuff in there?? lemonade??
#4140
Ok so I'll just drill a hole or two. Maybe the glue has covered it..Thanks for checking.
The green stuff is kero past its used by date. Still good to flush out my tanks I think.
Cheers
Pete
The green stuff is kero past its used by date. Still good to flush out my tanks I think.
Cheers
Pete
#4141
Thread Starter
Should be holes at the top, but that's a really interesting thing to check! Installed you would think its full and miss a few ozs.
Will add that to my list of checks!
Thank you
Dave
Will add that to my list of checks!
Thank you
Dave
#4144
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Castle Rock,
CO
Posts: 267
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Just checked mine and holes were missing also. Perhaps the Q stands for Quick on the sticker
#4147
My Feedback: (3)
Well my UF is ready to fly, ran the Cheetah today. The CG ended up at 225mm. I think that is fine for the first flights although I was trying for 230mm. I could only get 88mm of flaps without changing my servo arm geometry so I'll fly it like that too.
I have the main and saddle tanks, there were a few creaking noises during fueling but it is dry so I am good to go. Should get pretty long flights with all that fuel.
I have a gradual pressure loss that I am not too crazy about, about 10 psi per hour gear up or down. The first place I want to check is the festo valve on top of the tank. When the tank is stuck all the way up in the nose the 4mm tubing may be forced to an odd angle. I certainly can't hear it...
The Tamiya Smoke paint was a bit of a disaster. It goes on so thin initially you can't see well how it is laying down. I ended up with some sags and one run. I ended up putting the whole can on in about 4 coats and got it as dark as possible to hide the mess, it looks black now
I have the main and saddle tanks, there were a few creaking noises during fueling but it is dry so I am good to go. Should get pretty long flights with all that fuel.
I have a gradual pressure loss that I am not too crazy about, about 10 psi per hour gear up or down. The first place I want to check is the festo valve on top of the tank. When the tank is stuck all the way up in the nose the 4mm tubing may be forced to an odd angle. I certainly can't hear it...
The Tamiya Smoke paint was a bit of a disaster. It goes on so thin initially you can't see well how it is laying down. I ended up with some sags and one run. I ended up putting the whole can on in about 4 coats and got it as dark as possible to hide the mess, it looks black now
#4148
Well my UF is ready to fly, ran the Cheetah today. The CG ended up at 225mm. I think that is fine for the first flights although I was trying for 230mm. I could only get 88mm of flaps without changing my servo arm geometry so I'll fly it like that too.
I have the main and saddle tanks, there were a few creaking noises during fueling but it is dry so I am good to go. Should get pretty long flights with all that fuel.
I have a gradual pressure loss that I am not too crazy about, about 10 psi per hour gear up or down. The first place I want to check is the festo valve on top of the tank. When the tank is stuck all the way up in the nose the 4mm tubing may be forced to an odd angle. I certainly can't hear it...
The Tamiya Smoke paint was a bit of a disaster. It goes on so thin initially you can't see well how it is laying down. I ended up with some sags and one run. I ended up putting the whole can on in about 4 coats and got it as dark as possible to hide the mess, it looks black now
I have the main and saddle tanks, there were a few creaking noises during fueling but it is dry so I am good to go. Should get pretty long flights with all that fuel.
I have a gradual pressure loss that I am not too crazy about, about 10 psi per hour gear up or down. The first place I want to check is the festo valve on top of the tank. When the tank is stuck all the way up in the nose the 4mm tubing may be forced to an odd angle. I certainly can't hear it...
The Tamiya Smoke paint was a bit of a disaster. It goes on so thin initially you can't see well how it is laying down. I ended up with some sags and one run. I ended up putting the whole can on in about 4 coats and got it as dark as possible to hide the mess, it looks black now