C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
05-27-2011, 11:30 PM
#726
Thread Starter
RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
Never use water to wash out tanks, like you say it will take forever to dry out. I use alcohol as it evaporates quickly.
Goose, why do you say the balance needs to go back-have you flown your yet?
I remove the shim after the tank mount is set, to allow it to be slightly free, you might crack the fuse if its pressed against the top turtle deck with packing.
Dw
Goose, why do you say the balance needs to go back-have you flown your yet?
I remove the shim after the tank mount is set, to allow it to be slightly free, you might crack the fuse if its pressed against the top turtle deck with packing.
Dw
05-27-2011, 11:52 PM
#727
RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
Hi Dave,
I see a lot of flash owners use the AT legs but not the AT wheels and brakes, any particular reason. I have the AT legs, wheels and brakes on a Viper, have had only a handful of flights so far but satisfied with the AT stuff.
Chatty.
I see a lot of flash owners use the AT legs but not the AT wheels and brakes, any particular reason. I have the AT legs, wheels and brakes on a Viper, have had only a handful of flights so far but satisfied with the AT stuff.
Chatty.
05-28-2011, 04:57 AM
#728
RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
If you have washed your tanks out with water, alcohol is a better option as any water will dissolve in the alcohol and evaporate with the alcohol. Best to wash them out with alcohol in the beginning as Dave suggested.
I will wash out the tanks with kero and then assemble
05-28-2011, 06:00 AM
#729
Thread Starter
RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
ORIGINAL: c_makhija
Hi Dave,
I see a lot of flash owners use the AT legs but not the AT wheels and brakes, any particular reason. I have the AT legs, wheels and brakes on a Viper, have had only a handful of flights so far but satisfied with the AT stuff.
Chatty.
Hi Dave,
I see a lot of flash owners use the AT legs but not the AT wheels and brakes, any particular reason. I have the AT legs, wheels and brakes on a Viper, have had only a handful of flights so far but satisfied with the AT stuff.
Chatty.
When CARF first did the Flash, they tried to use as many parts from other models as possible, this reduces the items stock count. The Intairco wheels used on the Flash were also on the Euro sport and I think the Rookie. The original Flash was with behotec gear and legs (all three) and the Intairco wheels. AT were able to make trailing link legs that fitted. Behotec now make TL legs that would fit, but no point in changing. As I have shown on this build and others listing their types, a whole load of gear, struts and wheels will fit
The Intairco wheels are also a bit thinner, so easier to fit in the moulded wells. Nothing wrong with AT wheels, my Hawk has plenty of flights without a problem and they are from AT.
regards
Dave
05-28-2011, 11:00 PM
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RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
ORIGINAL: Dave Wilshere
Work on the wing. The U/C set is a mixture of Behotec, AT and Jet 1A. The gear has been assembled, flats ground on the pins etc. The chunky wheels have meant an additional 1.5mm (1/16'') packer to stop the tyre rubbing in the wheel well when the gear is up. Always rotate your wheels (any model) with the gear retracted to check that the tyre does not rub...it can stop the gear releasing and cause a hang up. My method of drilling mounting holes. I don't use the T nuts, preferring to drill and tap the plywood M4. I position the gear by tack gluing the packers to the gear and once I know it all works out I tack the packers to the gear mounting plate. Like this I can manually operate the gear and check everything is OK before drilling any holes. The Behotec gear has 4.2mm mounting holes, so first I use a 4.2mm drill and with light pressure drill just enough to see wood chips. I then change the drill for my tapping size (3.2mm) and holding the drill vertical drill through. The dimples left by the 4.2mm drill will guarantee the smaller hole is centralised. I then tap with a sharp tap and fit screws...
Dw
Work on the wing. The U/C set is a mixture of Behotec, AT and Jet 1A. The gear has been assembled, flats ground on the pins etc. The chunky wheels have meant an additional 1.5mm (1/16'') packer to stop the tyre rubbing in the wheel well when the gear is up. Always rotate your wheels (any model) with the gear retracted to check that the tyre does not rub...it can stop the gear releasing and cause a hang up. My method of drilling mounting holes. I don't use the T nuts, preferring to drill and tap the plywood M4. I position the gear by tack gluing the packers to the gear and once I know it all works out I tack the packers to the gear mounting plate. Like this I can manually operate the gear and check everything is OK before drilling any holes. The Behotec gear has 4.2mm mounting holes, so first I use a 4.2mm drill and with light pressure drill just enough to see wood chips. I then change the drill for my tapping size (3.2mm) and holding the drill vertical drill through. The dimples left by the 4.2mm drill will guarantee the smaller hole is centralised. I then tap with a sharp tap and fit screws...
Dw
Interesting that you are installing a P80, how do you think it will compare with the 120?....pro's & con's?
Rob.
05-28-2011, 11:56 PM
#732
Thread Starter
RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
Rob
All my models are like this, CARF use a good resin multi laminated plywood that does not need the CA trick. My thought has always been that a really heavy landing might pull the screws out, and then I could drill larger and fit T nuts! Even the CT-114 Tutor is like this and I have yet to pull out a screw!!
P-80SE
This goes way back where people were asking how it would fly with the P-80, I've been slow getting on with this and at least one has flown with the P-80SE. It's just that I have several customers with P-80SE's and they wanted to see an Ultra Flash fly with one, so I thought I'd build one as a go fly model, fly it, video and then offer it for sale. The pros are if you have a P-80SE, you don't need a new turbine, Cons-it won't have the performance of the P-120SX-straight and level flight I don't expect a big difference. Vertical performance is where I expect it to be most apparent. A Merlin 110 would be good too, as any turbine 95-120N. I bet the Ultra Flash would have good sports jet performance on a P-70!
Dave
Because of my packer, I needed to CSK the rear screws for cover clearance. Rough cutout leg clearance.
All my models are like this, CARF use a good resin multi laminated plywood that does not need the CA trick. My thought has always been that a really heavy landing might pull the screws out, and then I could drill larger and fit T nuts! Even the CT-114 Tutor is like this and I have yet to pull out a screw!!
P-80SE
This goes way back where people were asking how it would fly with the P-80, I've been slow getting on with this and at least one has flown with the P-80SE. It's just that I have several customers with P-80SE's and they wanted to see an Ultra Flash fly with one, so I thought I'd build one as a go fly model, fly it, video and then offer it for sale. The pros are if you have a P-80SE, you don't need a new turbine, Cons-it won't have the performance of the P-120SX-straight and level flight I don't expect a big difference. Vertical performance is where I expect it to be most apparent. A Merlin 110 would be good too, as any turbine 95-120N. I bet the Ultra Flash would have good sports jet performance on a P-70!
Dave
Because of my packer, I needed to CSK the rear screws for cover clearance. Rough cutout leg clearance.
06-01-2011, 09:22 AM
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RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
Hello didn't know if anybody was interested.I have a pair of rear trailing llink struts for the ultra flash..they are brand newnever used and are for the bohetic retracts..they don't have axels .. I was thinking 100 shipped...decided to use the prolinks so these are just sitting around.....pat
06-03-2011, 05:03 AM
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RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
I will be interested in Dave's answer on this, too, as it seems that I am incapable of grinding flats on the retract side (easy) then getting the flats on the strut side correct to produce a little toe-in (impossible)!
BTW, I broke the 6mm pin in my left gear and just received my new 6mm X 60mm pins from McMaster-Carr - 10 pins for $6.45. The main gear pins are only 50mm so had to cut them off and bevel the edges, but did three pins in about 6 or 7 minutes.
Regards,
Gus
BTW, I broke the 6mm pin in my left gear and just received my new 6mm X 60mm pins from McMaster-Carr - 10 pins for $6.45. The main gear pins are only 50mm so had to cut them off and bevel the edges, but did three pins in about 6 or 7 minutes.
Regards,
Gus
06-03-2011, 01:42 PM
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RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
ORIGINAL: mtnflyer14
I will be interested in Dave's answer on this, too, as it seems that I am incapable of grinding flats on the retract side (easy) then getting the flats on the strut side correct to produce a little toe-in (impossible)!
BTW, I broke the 6mm pin in my left gear and just received my new 6mm X 60mm pins from McMaster-Carr - 10 pins for $6.45. The main gear pins are only 50mm so had to cut them off and bevel the edges, but did three pins in about 6 or 7 minutes.
Regards,
Gus
I will be interested in Dave's answer on this, too, as it seems that I am incapable of grinding flats on the retract side (easy) then getting the flats on the strut side correct to produce a little toe-in (impossible)!
BTW, I broke the 6mm pin in my left gear and just received my new 6mm X 60mm pins from McMaster-Carr - 10 pins for $6.45. The main gear pins are only 50mm so had to cut them off and bevel the edges, but did three pins in about 6 or 7 minutes.
Regards,
Gus
There must be a easy way, dont know why Behotec pins dont come pre done with flats eather....
Jeremy.
06-03-2011, 01:55 PM
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RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
dont know why Behotec pins dont come pre done with flats eather....
I would pay dearly for pins that were ground for a preset 2 degrees of toe-in!
Regards,
Gus
06-03-2011, 01:55 PM
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RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
Gus, what was the part # for the pins from Mcmaster ? I have looked but as you know the site is so user freindly - lol.
06-03-2011, 01:57 PM
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RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
Dale,
Part number 91595A485; nomenclature Metric Alloy Steel dowel Pin, M6 Diameter, 60 mm length, Pack of 10. Cost $6.54.
Regards,
Gus
Part number 91595A485; nomenclature Metric Alloy Steel dowel Pin, M6 Diameter, 60 mm length, Pack of 10. Cost $6.54.
Regards,
Gus
06-03-2011, 04:58 PM
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RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
Thanks, you can spend hours on that site. It seems real easy at first but when you start looking for certain items they are buried in other areas.
06-05-2011, 10:57 PM
#742
Thread Starter
RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
ORIGINAL: rager24
Dave how is the jetcat 80 build going?
I'm just starting mine now and want to see how it works out for you.
Dave how is the jetcat 80 build going?
I'm just starting mine now and want to see how it works out for you.
regards
Dave
06-06-2011, 03:20 AM
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RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
hello on the flaps in inches what is the measurment everyone is going with.. i am at 3 inchs right now.. still i think it needs more... whats a good limit...pat
06-07-2011, 11:26 AM
#744
RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
Hi guys, got 8 flights on my flash.. loving every minute.. just a quick question every flight my uat is always a 1/4 and once 1/2 empty and I still have at least half a tank left in the main tank... I'm running the main with two 24's in the fuse as well. One one flight it flammed out just as my wheels touched down on landing... got lucky that flight... has any one experienced this with their uat's.. I think I read it having to do with the shape of the main tank.... any thoughts?
06-07-2011, 11:32 AM
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RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
Pat,
My UF isn't readily accessible right now, but I think I have a little over 3 inches; believe that some others have 4+ inches. I don't think that I need any more, but also haven't flown or talked to anybody about what more full flap deflection might mean in the landing pattern.
Regards,
Gus
My UF isn't readily accessible right now, but I think I have a little over 3 inches; believe that some others have 4+ inches. I don't think that I need any more, but also haven't flown or talked to anybody about what more full flap deflection might mean in the landing pattern.
Regards,
Gus
06-07-2011, 12:11 PM
#746
Thread Starter
RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
ORIGINAL: Sonicwings
Dave W...
What you recommend for Behotec retract set re flats on 6mm pins.? And lubing anything.?
Cheers Jeremy.
Dave W...
What you recommend for Behotec retract set re flats on 6mm pins.? And lubing anything.?
Cheers Jeremy.
I put a long flat on the pin around 3/8" long finishing 1/8" short of the end (to stop the pin dropping out) the flat is only 5/64 wide and curved to each end (no sharp corners) Only one flat even though the AT legs have 4 x M4 set screws. Crank down one on the flat and then follow with the next three. I then install the leg with wheel, into the retract yoke (retract unit mounted in the wing) using both M4 set screws in the Behotec yoke. Leave them nipped so you can tweak the wheel position to give the small amount of toe in required. I then nip one set screw and remove the other. Get a new felt marker pen and coat the set screw end, screw it back in a crank it down. The leaves a dot on the pin. Remove both sets and take the leg out. Draw a line through the dot with a finer marker pen.This gives a line to grind down and follow. The line should be full length so you still have some line at each end of the ground flat. Use a 1/4" grinding cylinder in a Dremel. This gives a curved end and no sharp edges. If you rest the leg on the edge of a bench so its stable and run the grinding cylinder up and down the line. A good eye will allow you to nail it first time, again only 5/64 wide flat is needed, but if you don't get it perfect you have enough meat to have another go and end up with a 3/32" flat max.
I use a Q tip to put a smear of grease on the cross bar driver slot.
Dave
06-07-2011, 02:29 PM
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RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
ORIGINAL: Dave Wilshere
Sorry, obviously missed this when I was off to Germany
I put a long flat on the pin around 3/8'' long finishing 1/8'' short of the end (to stop the pin dropping out) the flat is only 5/64 wide and curved to each end (no sharp corners) Only one flat even though the AT legs have 4 x M4 set screws. Crank down one on the flat and then follow with the next three. I then install the leg with wheel, into the retract yoke (retract unit mounted in the wing) using both M4 set screws in the Behotec yoke. Leave them nipped so you can tweak the wheel position to give the small amount of toe in required. I then nip one set screw and remove the other. Get a new felt marker pen and coat the set screw end, screw it back in a crank it down. The leaves a dot on the pin. Remove both sets and take the leg out. Draw a line through the dot with a finer marker pen.This gives a line to grind down and follow. The line should be full length so you still have some line at each end of the ground flat. Use a 1/4'' grinding cylinder in a Dremel. This gives a curved end and no sharp edges. If you rest the leg on the edge of a bench so its stable and run the grinding cylinder up and down the line. A good eye will allow you to nail it first time, again only 5/64 wide flat is needed, but if you don't get it perfect you have enough meat to have another go and end up with a 3/32'' flat max.
I use a Q tip to put a smear of grease on the cross bar driver slot.
Dave
ORIGINAL: Sonicwings
Dave W...
What you recommend for Behotec retract set re flats on 6mm pins.? And lubing anything.?
Cheers Jeremy.
Dave W...
What you recommend for Behotec retract set re flats on 6mm pins.? And lubing anything.?
Cheers Jeremy.
I put a long flat on the pin around 3/8'' long finishing 1/8'' short of the end (to stop the pin dropping out) the flat is only 5/64 wide and curved to each end (no sharp corners) Only one flat even though the AT legs have 4 x M4 set screws. Crank down one on the flat and then follow with the next three. I then install the leg with wheel, into the retract yoke (retract unit mounted in the wing) using both M4 set screws in the Behotec yoke. Leave them nipped so you can tweak the wheel position to give the small amount of toe in required. I then nip one set screw and remove the other. Get a new felt marker pen and coat the set screw end, screw it back in a crank it down. The leaves a dot on the pin. Remove both sets and take the leg out. Draw a line through the dot with a finer marker pen.This gives a line to grind down and follow. The line should be full length so you still have some line at each end of the ground flat. Use a 1/4'' grinding cylinder in a Dremel. This gives a curved end and no sharp edges. If you rest the leg on the edge of a bench so its stable and run the grinding cylinder up and down the line. A good eye will allow you to nail it first time, again only 5/64 wide flat is needed, but if you don't get it perfect you have enough meat to have another go and end up with a 3/32'' flat max.
I use a Q tip to put a smear of grease on the cross bar driver slot.
Dave
Ok i think im following this, next time your doing some pins, a couple pictures would be worth a thousand words...
I did a noseleg pin yesterday, and got mains to yet do... cant say im happy with whats done so far...
Cheers Jeremy.
06-07-2011, 11:51 PM
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RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
Airspeed917: What clunk's are you using?
I'm using the supplied tillotson felt clunks and only have a small air bubble in my UAT after a flight. I have a mate that is using BVM clunks and his last flight had his UAT well below 1/2 full.
Adam
I'm using the supplied tillotson felt clunks and only have a small air bubble in my UAT after a flight. I have a mate that is using BVM clunks and his last flight had his UAT well below 1/2 full.
Adam
06-08-2011, 01:07 AM
#749
Thread Starter
RE: C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
Jeremy
Ok, off to Scotland in the morning till Sunday night/Monday morning, but will do.
I have felt clunks, as designed and get almost zero air...thats why they are supplied ;-)
Dave
Ok, off to Scotland in the morning till Sunday night/Monday morning, but will do.
I have felt clunks, as designed and get almost zero air...thats why they are supplied ;-)
Dave