Shaun Evans

Hi,

For those of you who use rattle-can paint, what's a good flat clear? I used to use Top Flite Lustrekote flat clear, but around 2005, they must have changed the formula because it's just not flat anymore. In fact, it's just a cloudier semi-gloss. Does anyone know of a good rattle-can alternative for small projects? TIA

JackD

My Feedback: (4)

Shaun

I just tried Modelmaster flat and it looks pretty good. let me know if you try them

dubd

A friend of mine used the ModelMaster flat on his jet and it looked great.

jmohn

It works great and as it gets weathered and beat up from handling it looks just like the real thing too.


Jeff

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Thanks, guys. Do you know whether or not it's fuel-proof against nitro?

Jet Blaster

Shaun, The Model Master Flat and Testors Dull Cote look great but dont hold up to Nitro or Kero/JetA. I painted my BVM Rafale, BVM F-4E, BVM F-100D and BVM BobCatwith Tamiya paints and used Testors Dull Cote on one and Model Masters Flat on the other. Sure looks darn good though.

Square Nozzle

My Feedback: (1)

Many auto paint suppliers will put paint in a spray can for you. I used PPG Flex and Flat on my Yellow F-22 (in an HVLP gun) and it came out looking great. One word of caution with flat paints, at least the PPG stuff. Don't put it on wet like you would a base coat. Spray it on so it's dry looking on application. Not so dry that it's got a rough texture but dry looking. A wet coat will not dry flat looking. It will have a slight sheen. Definately fuel proof.

Shaun Evans

Wow,

I agree. Those look great. So what happened when it didn't hold up well, did it just smudge off? Were you wiping/cleaning regularly or right after a spill? Part of the issue is I'm doing a simple, inexpensive paint job for a customer, and I'm applying decals (sticky-back) over glossy paint. I use the glossy to get a good, bubble-free adhesion on the decals. When I'm done, I usually go over the whole thing with Lustrekote flat clear, but as I said, that stuff doesn't seem to be flat anymore.... []

Jet Blaster

Dont get me wrong, it will be fine for many, but over time, it has its drawbacks. Example: Areas aft of fuel vents and wing areas where Hopper Tanks are placed will smudge/erase the flat clear. I usually keep my scale jets for approximately 2 years and purchase something new. The product/s held up okay after 2 seasons. If the client wont be flying much, then this would be a great way to go as long as he/she understands what can and will happen, once Jet A/Kerosone and Nitro fuelsmake contact with the product/s. I am currently finishing up another BVM F-4E in a Vietnam camo scheme and I will use Tamiya spray paints for camo base andAutomotive clearcoat (with matting agent)as top coat. I think this will hold up much better over long periods of time and now that the market has gone to craps, I plan on keeping most of the jets I own today for awhile.

Mach1

My Feedback: (5)

I used MM Dull Cote on my F-16. It really gives a nice flat finish.

Jet20

My Feedback: (2)

Sean,

I've used the model master and testors clear coats in years passed. Though it's easy and gives a nice flat finish, I have found that in areas of frequent handling, the clear will begin to wear away and in some cases just cleaning the airplane with windex or similar can cause areas of wear too. Also, it will yellow in the sun over time. It's not hugely noticable until you have areas that require touchup. You'll never be able to match the paint up using the exact same paint you painted the model with. Though, if you touch up the paint along panel lines, it'll give you some nice color variation. I should note that I've only used it on my smaller electric birds.

In recent years, I've come to use a non-yellowing lacquer clear which I like a lot. It comes in a satin, but the key is to kind of dust it on and then hit it with a light scotch brite pad to finish it off. This works great for everything except glow. If you're clearing for glow, then you need to use a two part clear coat so that it's fuel proof. The nitro in the fuel is pretty harsh on paint finishes.


Chris

chrigui

For best solution i use Lechler products...

2k matt or best "satin"

Vincent

My Feedback: (61)

Krylon makes a "matte" flat clear, i have used this in the past and was happy with the finish and durability.It seems to work on any type of painted surface, i have found this matte clear at Ace, Michaels or Jo-Anns crafts stores.
Vin...

chrigui

ciao vinc.... come stai?

Vincent

My Feedback: (61)

Sono buono...e voi??

chrigui

tutto bene

now i will build derjet 1:5 VAMPIRE...(arrived 2 weeks ago)

Mike06659

I was thinking about using Rustoleum on my next project. Pick my colors and then clear it all with Rustoleum.

Does anyone have experience with this??

Vincent

My Feedback: (61)

As long as you stay with all rustoleum products it will work fine.
V..

Mike06659

V,
Thank you

It just makes sense it's available everywhere

tony0707

HI
I DO KNOW that rustoleum gloss white and gloss black are fuel proof the scue numbers with a lot of 7's in the number are fuel proof per the rustoleum company info is the clear fuel proof ?

FalconWings

My Feedback: (57)

use whatever clearcoat you can find and works better for you and amke sure you put enough to protect your decals. Then do an 800 grit wet sand. You can get it as flat as you want.

I ahev an F-16 that's dead flat, and though it looks very scale like, cleaning it is a pain. If you stain it with your fingers, they will remain there. for a while.

David

extra 300

My Feedback: (3)

David,

Do you mean to say that you can use a twin components glossy clearcoat and still turn it flat by doing a 800 grit wet sand??

Thanks regards,

FalconWings

My Feedback: (57)

Yes sir. I think a lot of Pros actually use this technique.

I just wet sanded my bandit which had a high solids PPG Clear on it (high gloss) and it looks dead flat now, but slick enough to allow for a good wipe down if needed.
On my next scale jet I will use this technique vs the flex n flat agent, which makes the model dead flat but impossible to clean.

David

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Doesn't the 'flat' that you achieved by steel-wooling go away as soon as it gets anything oily on it? That's been my experience...

SPLIT S

Any flat finish can get the shiny spots if something oily gets on it. While sanding the clear achieves the "look", you have actually opened up the finish and can make it more prone to the dreaded spot. In can be cleaned though, think of it from a car painters (me) standpoint. The last thing I do before paint on a sanded (flat) finish is to de-grease it. No shiny spots what so ever. Invest a little in some final wipe, not a regular wax and grease remover (DX394 works great) and use that to clean the finish when needed.

Dan