Maj. Woody's Skymaster 1/5 F-86
04-18-2018, 02:51 PM
#52
Originally Posted by MaJ. Woody
That is a good tip. I have a friend that did the same thing.
Does anyone have any pictures of the second cyclinders on the main gear doors and can you tell me which ones you bought?
Does anyone have any pictures of the second cyclinders on the main gear doors and can you tell me which ones you bought?
04-19-2018, 01:00 PM
#54
Received my F-86 Pilot today. Thank you Eric Clapp from A&E Jets for the fast shipping! This thing is amazing and the pictures through the plastic packaging dont do it justice. It looks very vintage and has some excellent antiquing. Sorry George!
04-19-2018, 01:20 PM
#56
Originally Posted by quist
i had an extra set of Skymaster cylinders from my hawk. I mounted on the rear edge of the door just a mirror image of the other cylinder.
04-19-2018, 06:25 PM
#57
Originally Posted by MaJ. Woody
Thanks for the reply. Are you saying that on the opposite door edge on the hinge line?
08-07-2018, 11:15 AM
#61
My Feedback: (21)
Originally Posted by MaJ. Woody
Anyone flying one of these? Are you having trouble rotating the aircraft because of the way the plane sits on the gear? Any control surface issues like flutter when built according to the instructions?
thanks,
thanks,
Joe Lewis
08-08-2018, 04:33 AM
#64
My Feedback: (12)
I have been flying my Skymaster F 86 for about 18 months. 400' to rotate P 180 power using recommended flap setting for takeoff. Added oil to the nose strut to stiffen strut and improve angle of attack for take off run.
Model flys great...be sure to use the revised CG in the instruction manual on Skymaster web site. Added 1/8" crow to get some" wash out " on wings. Some guys are using 1/4" crow on BVM's F 86.
I love this model!!
Model flys great...be sure to use the revised CG in the instruction manual on Skymaster web site. Added 1/8" crow to get some" wash out " on wings. Some guys are using 1/4" crow on BVM's F 86.
I love this model!!
08-08-2018, 05:01 AM
#65
My Feedback: (21)
Originally Posted by two dogs
I have been flying my Skymaster F 86 for about 18 months. 400' to rotate P 180 power using recommended flap setting for takeoff. Added oil to the nose strut to stiffen strut and improve angle of attack for take off run.
Model flys great...be sure to use the revised CG in the instruction manual on Skymaster web site. Added 1/8" crow to get some" wash out " on wings. Some guys are using 1/4" crow on BVM's F 86.
I love this model!!
Model flys great...be sure to use the revised CG in the instruction manual on Skymaster web site. Added 1/8" crow to get some" wash out " on wings. Some guys are using 1/4" crow on BVM's F 86.
I love this model!!
I had one of these before and had it balanced at the 390mm. I was hesitant to balance the new one at the updated CG of 400 to 410mm. The new one I have flies great but I agree the take roll seems long. I balanced it at the 390mm. You say to use the updated CG. Where exactly did you put yours at. Are there any tail heavy issues in flight?
Thanks
Joe Lewis
08-08-2018, 11:34 AM
#69
I am not using crow. Reflex is mixing up aileron with up elevator. I’m using 7 mm.
That was a pic I took when I was installing my new Jeti tx, so I took pics and measured all my throws so as to help me set up the Jeti. (Goodbye JR! You will be missed!)
That was a pic I took when I was installing my new Jeti tx, so I took pics and measured all my throws so as to help me set up the Jeti. (Goodbye JR! You will be missed!)
Last edited by ravill; 08-08-2018 at 11:54 AM.
08-08-2018, 02:30 PM
#70
Thanks for all the feedback guys. Keep it coming!
Any notes / pictures on how you are keeping the main gear doors closed in flight? I hear that is a problem.
Are you using the full bypass? I have the 180-200 pipe and full bypass and heard that it may not all fit.
Any notes / pictures on how you are keeping the main gear doors closed in flight? I hear that is a problem.
Are you using the full bypass? I have the 180-200 pipe and full bypass and heard that it may not all fit.
08-08-2018, 11:39 PM
#71
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,461
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23 Posts
Dom,
I am going to throw a spanner In the works and tell you why you hear all these fixes.
My F-86 rotates fine and with-in predictable distance. It has a JetCat 180Rx in it and it weighs empty, but including the drop tanks and full bypass with P-200 SM pipe, 48 lbs. The cg is at 380mm from LE. This cg was given to me by Mike O'Meara after he had two of these and flew them to many contest wins. He basically said to me - the cg is right at the back of the canopy frame moulding where it blends into the fuselage. Be prepared to add an obscene amout of weight to the nose - so you may as well plan for a nose orientated installation. The flying is completely predictable and I never use more than 15% expo on any of my controls.
The first problem with the F-86 is that the front tank is too big and carries too much fuel in front of the cg, I shortened both ends on mine up to where the cutaway is and still fly for 7 minutes. This tank modification also then allow for easy routing of wires etc. from the rear to the front of the jet.
The second and more serious problem is the negative AOA, especially at the wing tips when the jet sits on the ground. This gets even worse when it is fully fuelled and even worse when it is taking off. You have to extend (I had a new one machined) the inner tube of the nose oleo to the maximum length which will still allow the nose wheel to retract without jamming up against the rear edge of the nose gear door. In my case that was almost 1/2 inch. Unfortunately this will mean that the scale scissors arm will sit slightly higher than it should. However at about 100lbs of air pressure in the main oleos, the wing tips will now sit at zero AOA. When you fuel up and you are ready to taxi, push down on the main oleos and the wing tips will go to a positive AOA. Don't reduce the pressure in the main oleos.
As for flutter with internal linkages - they are absolute fine, provided you install them without slop and movement, always trying for the maximum leverage rather than simply the easiest install. Mine all work perfectly and I have no issues at all. I have to admit that the main gear doors are a PITA and even with the full bypass (which is a tight fit without major modification but definitely worth every bit of effort) they still hang down about 1/4inch during flight.
Good luck with your build - it is a wonderful jet, I love mine.
Cheers,
JanR
I am going to throw a spanner In the works and tell you why you hear all these fixes.
My F-86 rotates fine and with-in predictable distance. It has a JetCat 180Rx in it and it weighs empty, but including the drop tanks and full bypass with P-200 SM pipe, 48 lbs. The cg is at 380mm from LE. This cg was given to me by Mike O'Meara after he had two of these and flew them to many contest wins. He basically said to me - the cg is right at the back of the canopy frame moulding where it blends into the fuselage. Be prepared to add an obscene amout of weight to the nose - so you may as well plan for a nose orientated installation. The flying is completely predictable and I never use more than 15% expo on any of my controls.
The first problem with the F-86 is that the front tank is too big and carries too much fuel in front of the cg, I shortened both ends on mine up to where the cutaway is and still fly for 7 minutes. This tank modification also then allow for easy routing of wires etc. from the rear to the front of the jet.
The second and more serious problem is the negative AOA, especially at the wing tips when the jet sits on the ground. This gets even worse when it is fully fuelled and even worse when it is taking off. You have to extend (I had a new one machined) the inner tube of the nose oleo to the maximum length which will still allow the nose wheel to retract without jamming up against the rear edge of the nose gear door. In my case that was almost 1/2 inch. Unfortunately this will mean that the scale scissors arm will sit slightly higher than it should. However at about 100lbs of air pressure in the main oleos, the wing tips will now sit at zero AOA. When you fuel up and you are ready to taxi, push down on the main oleos and the wing tips will go to a positive AOA. Don't reduce the pressure in the main oleos.
As for flutter with internal linkages - they are absolute fine, provided you install them without slop and movement, always trying for the maximum leverage rather than simply the easiest install. Mine all work perfectly and I have no issues at all. I have to admit that the main gear doors are a PITA and even with the full bypass (which is a tight fit without major modification but definitely worth every bit of effort) they still hang down about 1/4inch during flight.
Good luck with your build - it is a wonderful jet, I love mine.
Cheers,
JanR
Last edited by Springbok Flyer; 08-08-2018 at 11:45 PM.
08-09-2018, 06:24 AM
#73
Originally Posted by ravill
When I maidened my BVM big F-86, it took off in 50 ft and it is WAY overpowered with a K180. Reflex, reflex, reflex!
08-09-2018, 12:55 PM
#75
My Feedback: (21)
Originally Posted by two dogs
https://youtu.be/MHvN53-40Ms 500' runway
Joe Lewis
Kingtech
K-80, K-140, K-180
Owner
