OK yes fully understand now, I have no o ring in the read bearing (but there is a slot for one ) and the front bearing well Er I mucked that one up and my balls are on the bench [:@] ( can I rebuild the bearing if I have all the balls ?) I will order a new set of bearings along with the two piece tail cone (read somewhere the two piece will lower temps )

My thermocouple was in the 9 O'Clock position, I moved it to the 3 O'Clock position when It ran better so I will move it clockwise one more bolt hole and see how this goes ( when I get bearings )

I will remove the outer cage of the front bearing tonight and see if there is an o ring.

I will have to have my compressor re balanced onto the shaft as I decided in all my wisdom ( and drunkenness ) to clean the compressor and in doing so removed my sharpie mark where the compressor aligned to the turbine wheel.

Thanks for the info and anymore you have will certainly be taken on board...

Yes,you can re`assemble the bearing if you have the balls. Just clean the balls,casing and race very well. Place a small amount of pretroleum jelly on the groove in the outer casing. Place the balls into the groove and space them evenly around the whole diameter. Lay in on a flat surface and then gently press the inner race into it. It will "snap" into position and just clean the jelly out it it. Easy as that. One thing to remember - the bearing has a "V" mark on the outer casing and the inner race must be installed from the correct side. LOOK AT THE OTHER BEARING AND MAKE SURE IT LOOKS THE SAME,WHEN YOU ASSEMBLE IT.

Regards

Craig

Hi I have all my ball's so I will give it a go.
My shaft tunnel looks good but the rear bearing looks like it has spun in the housing there is no o ring in the back bearing but I will have to obviously install one there the bearing also does not fit tight more like just slips in.

Here is the compressor end with o ring installed was tight to get the bearing out so o ring is ok and looks ok.

Here is the turbine end of the shaft tunnel I will have to install an o ring here short of buying a new shaft tunnel.

To which post do you refer that "anyone" comment to Adrian?

The post regarding FADEC's, or the regarding how to post images in this thread??

BJ

Alo Alo who we have here ?

I'd add to that "make absolutely sure that you don't have any Propane burning once you enter fuel-ramp"

JJ Solenoids ain't the best in the world, and if you have your light-off gas continuing into the mix once the Kero has fired, you'll get way-off-scale overtemp readings...

BJ

Hi BJ yep I disconnect the gas manually 3-4 seconds into the fuel ramp but still get the readings.
Agree with the JJ solenoids they are crap.

Sorry guys - forget my last posts.

For some reason, my magnificent Micro$oft software is not refreshing my pages correctly - third time it's happened tonight. I hit "refresh all', and I see the same stuff. Then I post something, and 2 or 3 days of posts appear before my post.

Gotta love one Mr William Gates, donchya?

NO!

BJ

Yep you get that on the big jobs...

Sorry mate, I'm not being much help here.

One thing does jump up at me but - the positioning of your theremocouple.

I know nothing about jj-1200's, but my jj-3000's have the EGT at roughly 10 o'clock - as far away as possible from the natural hot-spot that you can get.

Just a thought...

BJ

yep, I had mine at the 9 O'Clock position but the heat was crazy (around 800 durning start up and WOT). Moving it to 3 O'Clock fixed this but as I said its only a bandaid fix, I need to know why its so hot, I will admit the burn pattern inside has cleaned up since the first strip down till this one. but time will tell it might do a jet joe on me and **** itself

Well....let's hope it doesn't do that on you...

They can go alright with a bit of TLC and a keen eye.

Whereabouts in Melb are you? We should catch-up sometime, and compare stories

BJ

I am thinking about getting a turbine, and I see some of the concerns with the JJ's, I like the price but was wondering if the newest models (12-14 lb. class) have incorporated any improvements to resolve some noted issues?

Also where would be the best place to buy one considering price and maybe service as well?

If you are not happy with the tolerances of the bearing/shaft tunnel fit then you can get a new tunnel and preload spring/spacer from jetjoe for only $30

Hi BJ 64 I am in melton, I will pm you my number. Drop us a line today for a chat. would love to catch up for a chat and look see.

Prop wash, If you would like to get a turbine I suggest something that runs for your first turbine such as a jetcat or behotec ETC.I have a TJT 300 which has 16 hours on it which gets a strip down every few hours or so to check all is well. I have had this turbine for 10 years now and it is a ripper. later you can buy a JJ to tinker with and learn to dismantle and re assemble, they are cheap enough to get parts for and will teach you allot. As I said I have been using and dismantling turbines for years but all has been well now I am learning something since I have to play with things. or if your not in a hurry to get a turbine in the air get a jj first. you can get one from WWW.jetjoe.com .

Xairflyer, is it a STD FLAP or HANUMAN ? I have a Zodiac 601 HD. Might get a STD Xair oneday for a bit of fun but am going to build a Zodiac 701 first. I will order a new shaft tunnel along with the o rings and check to see if there are any differences.

I will order all the parts tomorrow from JJ.

Will keep you all updated.

All of them tis me who is XairIreland.com, nice plane the 601, never been that keen on the 701.

Explains alot, I love the X air STD they are like being a bird, and cheap to boot. one day I will get one.

Oh yeah now I am in for a learning curve. I have broken the thread from the gas line. How do I re weld it back on ? is it braised ? what does "braze" mean..... I need help here all I can do is "mig" LOL...,
What do I need to fix it ?

LoL

The good ole 'gas-axe' is what we need here to braise it back on - or silver-solder I guess. Depending on which end has let go (I have an 'Oxy').

The 'mig' don't do so well on non-ferrous metals LoL.

BTW - got your PM. Ta. Will contact you when our daylight-hours overlap.

BJ

Thanks mate. So if I go to bunnings and buy one of the gas torches and some silver solder sticks along with some of that white paste flux I should be right Eh ? I Hope.....

Erm....let's gas-bag about this on the phone in the not too distant future.

If it requires genuine braising, I have the equipment to do the job (not saying I'm an expert, but I do know how to "wield the wand of fire" Lol). I doubt that you will be able to get a hot enough and consistent, precise flame from a Bunnings torch to do bronze-weld ('braise')

BJ

Well You might need to weild your wand of fire on my ring of fire . I will go to bunnings and buy the gear and buy a small amount of copper tube and give it a practice go [sm=drowning.gif] . Give us a call when your free and we can have a look at my "Gas Ring"

No probs Adrian.

But seriously, if it needs a bronze-weld rather than a silver-solder, don't waste your time with a Bunnings blow-torch.

If you've ever done any electric soldering, you'll know the meaning of a 'cold joint'. Nothing to do with a Bong But you know what I mean...

Braising requires the whole area around the joint to be cherry-red for it to flow and stick - without heating the guts out of everything else nearby.

For that, you need a nice fine, hot tip. A 1cm wide Apocalypse-Now flame isn't the best for this kind of job.

Hey, if worse comes to worst, we can dance around as it detonates during spool-up

BJ

Adrian the only fix is to silver solder it, easy done with any small torch and obviously a silver solder rod and flux. Silver soldering is prefered to Brazing as the temp is lower.
Only snag is doing it without it running inside and filling your gas pipe!!

If you are ordering a new tunnel then I would ask jetjoe for a new gas pipe as well just in case

[sm=shades_smile.gif] Get ready for the bang...