I'm the useing the Nades Electronics FADEC. It also depends on the fuel pump being used (I'm useing a Behotec fuel pump

which could use a 5 cell battery) I might be able to use the 4 cell on my pump but I havent explored the option because I need the nose weight.

I have a JJ1200 with Semi Auto Start I also use a battery operated leaf blower it provides a easy safe start.

Hi all
I bought a JJ1400 over a year ago and have had good success with it. After about 60 litres of fuel through it, I was suspicious about the bearings and stripped it down for a rebuild. JetJoe was very helpfull via email and sent the parts I ordered within a week (to Aus). After I gave them my engine number, Joe advised that I change out the CC as well. This was good advice as the old one had burnt out, the vaporiser sticks were the old non inconel curved style. Rebuilt with the new cc, bearings etc and replaced the tailcone to the wren style, now is back to great thrust and has a much stronger sound. I plan on buying another 1400 and the new 1800. Without JJ I would not have been able to get into turbines, 12 months ago a P60 here in Aus would set you back A$ 4000.00, JJ was half the price and now are even better.

What did the parts cost for this upgrade/repair after 60 litres of fuel thru it? How many hours on it?

Dave

I have two JJs 1200 and 1400. I have found them to be good little turbines. I also find joy when mine start and some other guys are cursing other brands that cost at least twice as much when they don't start. I know several others who also own them and they are also happy. They require no more maintenance or repairs than any other turbine I am aware of. My 1400 in particular has been in a Red Arrows Hawk, the motor ran great but the plane was %$#@#@(plane has gone to heaven, motor survived). The other guys I know with JJs have used them in The Mk1 Rookie, Reaction 54 and the small Facet. I had problems with the factory pump but was told by Joe that these are only recommended for bench testing. As for the stiffness in the bearings, mine does this when you manually spin the spinner but it is the preload tensioner. I am eagerly awaiting the 1800 model and hope that Joe gets moving with even bigger turbines. I wish him all success.

Hi All, Please look at these, anyone has one??????????????????????

http://www.jetjoe.com/cp_detail.php?...cpath=&catid=0

hi there does anyone know how to remagnetise the compressor nut because i dropped mine and demagnetised the magnet inside and the pickup wont get RPM. If i need to order another one will it need to be all balanced again???

Just run a strong magnet around the inside of the cowl.
Doubtful that the magnet got demagnetized, more likely the cowl and sensor need degaussing. Try this first.

Hi just in case anyone might be interested...
I recieved a unknown motor from a guy in sweden, as part of a strange deal that we dont kneed to know about!
Some of this engine is from plans. Some from JJ, and so on. But basically for all intents and purposes it may as well be a JJ motor.

Now it appears to be exactly the same as the latest JJ full autostart with a different coloured (gold) front cover and a different (neater) bullet starter.
They did say many parts were sourced in china...

Now.

Like many of you I was having one or two problems with bad combustion, and hot starts. In some cases it wouldnt reach idle. Next time it did but popped and banged a bit as the revs approached idle before it cleared up at 35k. I discovered it ran much better on parafin (and it smells far less too) and this cured some of the issues.

It was usable but ran a bit hot at 730 degrees @ 160k rpm And it throttled slowly.
I checked the fuel ring, on gas, and it looked fine.
The combustion chamber showed uneven heating though. mmm...

Well I have a few engines here to look at, including some home made (shreckling, kj, and even a solent gas turbine starter - 75 shaft hp!) ones.
I decided to try fitting a new combustion chamber. For what its worth the newest ones from wren (removed from my partly home built mw54) to try fits. It does not use those indented 3d holes in the chamber or the angled short air inlet tubes. It runs hugely better and cooler! And definitely makes more thrust. At least as far as I can tell judjung by how much it bends the box lid! (I use the box it came im to store fuel/fadec/battery/pump etc. So now I need to order another one for my home built...

While I was at it I also fitted the FOD screen and starter housing as well after watching a wasp get sucked in! It fits fine on my hybrid so will fit a JJ as well presumably? It is designed to use 6 bolts and slip over the case. Wrens use a longer case with a single row of screws to fasten both front cover and case.

Well because of this you need to
a) drill some extra holes and tap to m2, 2.5 or whatever your motor uses. I changed all my screws to M3 simply because they are easily available.
b) put a smal flat washer under the cover at every bolt hole since we are butting it up to the case rather than over it to take up the difference.
c) the cover is a few mm (5?) further forward than on the Wren, so you need either a bendix not fitted as far on the shaft, or the motor itself case chamfered so it slips in a little further, Or a longer nut! Or it wont engage and turn the motor properly.

I also fitted the tail pipe because the wren one seems thicker at the base and turned. The one I had was presumably either made in sweden or bought from JJ. but it shrunk! Hard to get on and off. So the tail pipe is wren too. Although this makes no difference to performance presumably. It has (because I shortened it by6.5mm an opening of the same size as the original. But a little longer and with a "step" on the inside that is machined in to fit over the ngv outer to keep gas flow smooth.

I am going to buy a wren supersport motor after seeing these parts! I should have photographed the chamber but I dont think they would appreciate their hard work getting copied. So I thought it was a bit unfair to do so.

Anyway here is a plan built mw54 (in sweden) with a wren new combustion chamber, tailpipe, and fod front end. It now makes more noise, definitely more thrust, starts much more consistently and runs at about 670 degrees flat out on a very hot day!

And yes I am using 5 percent oil and its cheapo semi synthetic silkolene from the bike shop.

Hi All,

Finally I can make a JJ-1400 run so good and realiable that I flew my Yellow Aircraft Stingray two time. My engine has a lot of thrust and is able to unlimited vertical performance just after takeoff.

This is what my engine need to runs ok:

1.- Check fuel injector
2.- Remove the rear bearing oring
3.- change the Preload Spring so it has a pressure of 4kg at working leng
4.- Change the old very restrictive lubrication pipe for a new one that Joe just send me

I am using the old no inconel combustion chamber, the engine has 10 cycles and 20 liters of kerosene with this configuration and is running very good.

Most of my problem was with rear bearing and preload, what I have learned is that most important thing here is lubrication. My engine run for about 20 minutes with 2 liters before I changed the lubrication pipe, but I have always problem with the rear bearing. Now my engine run just for 11 minutes with 2 liters but the bearing are wet and cool.

Just my two cents,

Hello everyone, Ive been trying to reach Joe at jetjoe.com for about a week now with no response. Ive left phone messages and a few e-mails. Id like to buy one of his turbines. Dose anyone know whats up over there and why they might no be responding. Also dose anyone know if the jj1800 has been released and what it's cost is?

Thanks, Mike

I just received an email from Joe on Tuesday 1st August. try [email protected]

I just received an email from Joe on Tuesday 1st August. try [email protected]
[/quote]

Thanks, ... that's the one I've been trying. argh

Hello JetJoe Owners,

On the weekend, I had a brain fart and fooled with my ECU settings. I purchased the engine mounted on a airplane. I ran the engine with the settings as it came. I should have know that EasyTiger would have it set right but......He lives in New York and I'm in Edmonton. An elevation difference of 2000 ft. So I figured that some tweeking could cure three quirks I thought I had. These were:

1) slow ramp up from 25K to 50K on start up. It took between 30 and 45 seconds.
2) Spool up was around 10 seconds
3) spool down was around 12 seconds.

And we occassionally noticed a slight hint of orange flame as it spooled either up or down.

So, I read the Fadec manual. Seemed the settings for a Wren 54 would work for a JJ1400. Also, as I understood the parameters, they looked like the right direction to go. Well it wasn't. The engine ran OK on the starting stand. And, it did seem to spool up and down faster,BUT. Three times while taxing, the engine exploded a huge fireball out the tail pipe and shutdown. The last time burned the rudders off the Reaper. The fireballs occurred while wiggling the throttle up and down at a low setting. Trying to obtain a nice roll out speed on the taxi way to the runway.

Anyway, I probably have the ECU settings out by a mile now. so I need help by asking a few questions.
1) So, does anyone know the default settings for the FADEC for a JJ1400? Factory settings?
2) Also, any JJ1400 owners who don't fly at sea level. How much tweeking do I need for our elevation?
3) what are normal spool up and down times for JJ1400? We were comparing against a Wren MrkIII my buddy was running beside me.
4) Any idea what caused the fireball? What did I sc**w up?
5) what is the normal start up time from when the kerosene kicks in till the engine hits idlw at 50K?
6) Or should I just give up and call this engine a boat anchor????????
7) Who or where can one call/email for technical support? The JetJoe email address is full and is not accepting any more emails.

I would GREATLY appreciate any help I receive. Hopefully, it will only take a week or so to build new rudders......

With much appreciation,
DW_Crash

DW,

there is some good FADEC setting information in post 91 of this thread

Greg

Hi Greg

What a memory I'd forgotten those early posts [8D]

DW Crash

1) So, does anyone know the default settings for the FADEC for a JJ1400? Factory settings?

See previous posts

2) Also, any JJ1400 owners who don't fly at sea level. How much tweeking do I need for our elevation?

Not sure any manufacturer adjusts FADEC for elevation of customer, refer to Gasper for suggestions.

3) what are normal spool up and down times for JJ1400? We were comparing against a Wren MrkIII my buddy was running beside me.

Better to have borrowed the other flyer's pump and FADEC, to compare only

4) Any idea what caused the fireball? What did I sc**w up?

[:-][:-]The fireball occurs when excess fuel enters the engines, has insufficient oxygen in the chamber and the fuel and flame front moves out through the NGV in to the outside where there is plenty of air to burn. Nice flames

Causes (in no order), failing battery cells, poor or worn pump (get a Peter Hausel or Flightworks), FADEC ramp too high, accel delay no high enough, stab delay not right, one or more needles blocked on fuel manifold, the vaporiser sticks were the old non inconel curved style and have melted.

5) what is the normal start up time from when the kerosene kicks in till the engine hits idlw at 50K?

Depends all on the FADEC settings, pump and starter speed, but I'd guess from fuel entering the manifold it will be less than 20secs to FADEC showing 'running'.

Thanks for the info. It is helpful.

I'd still like to know what are the factory settings of the FADEC so I have a starting point. I found 4 or 5 sets of values in this thread. They cover quite a range. SO, I'd like to know what the factory says is the place to start.

Thanks again,
DW_Crash

Hello Jetjoe Owners,

For those interested, I received the factory defaults for a JJ1400 Fadec. They are:

The JJ-1400 Fadec setting:

Max speed: 160000 RPM
Idle speed: 45000 RPM
Stop speed: 30000 RPM
Max temp: 800 C
Min temp: 100 C
pump start point: auto+2
Start ramp: 4
Acceleration delay: 18
Deceleration delay: 18
Stability delay: 45

Thanks for all the help,
DW_Crash

Hi,

Where did you get those parameters???. I am using the following:

Max speed: 160000 RPM
Idle speed: 42000 RPM
Stop speed: 28000 RPM
Max temp: 800 C
Min temp: 100 C
pump start point: auto+2
Start ramp: 6
Acceleration delay: 40
Deceleration delay: 30
Stability delay: 50

Equipment:

JJ-1400
Pump Flight Works A-200
Fadec Nades V05
Battery Lipo 7.4Volt 2200 Mah

The parameters I listed came in a email form support @ JetJoe.

I noticed yours are close. Might be subtle version differences.....

DW_Crash

Get yours running yet?

Dave

Dear RCGuy,

Nope, tried for several hours without any luck. The engine starts easily, runs well at full power, or even at half power. But it flames out during throttle up or down.

After start up I let the engine warm a bit. Then, I moved the stick to full power, at a modest rate, let it run, stably, at full power then throttle down at a modest rate. I can usually do this twice before problems occurs. It happens at around 85K rpm. The engine flames out with a nice little fireball ou the tail pipe. So it is half way through either throttling up or down, doesn't matter, when it flames outs. The ECU records a FLAMEOUT.

I changed the delay settings from the given default of 16, in steps of 5, all the way up to 45. It seemed to make little or no difference. That's when I gave up. Nearly 4 litres of fuel later, and it still won't work properly. Does anyone have any suggestions? Anyone seen this before?

These are the settings I used, for JetJoe:

The JJ-1400 Fadec setting:

Max speed: 160000 RPM
Idle speed: 45000 RPM
Stop speed: 30000 RPM
Max temp: 800 C
Min temp: 100 C
pump start point: auto+2
Start ramp: 4
Acceleration delay: 18
Deceleration delay: 18
Stability delay: 45

The biggest difference was switching from a JetJoe fuel pump to a Hausl280 (WREN MW-54) pump. The engine was rock stable at any throttle setting. It would sit at 100K rpm and not move. The JetJoe pump would wander up and down 500 to 1000 rpm.

So any suggestions would be helpful,
A desperate, DW_Crash

Increase Acceleration and deceleration delay till the engine dont flame out, start with 100 or even more. But for my experience with my two JJ-1400 a delay of 18 is way too low.

DW_Crash,

Your symptoms sound the same as mine and at least one other person's I've read. You can read my posts about this starting here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3109179

In the end I sent my JJ1400 back to Joe and he sent me a replacement which I have over 50 flights on now but I had to have it balanced, free up the pre-load and replace the bearings and combustion chamber at around 25 flights (not hours)

Joe told me that the problem with the first engine was the rear bearing binding and dragging down the RPM causing it to shoot flames. Which I believe since my second (current) engine had pre-load issues as well.

As a test, push firmly against the shaft/nut on the turbine wheel as if trying to push the shaft out the front of the engine and then release. If the pre-load is free you should be able to feel or hear a very slight movement of the shaft against the pre-load spring and it will spring back when you let go.

Out of curiosity, try running the engine after pressing hard against the turbine end of the shaft (just by hand, maybe 20 - 30 lbs,) When it's cool and not running then run it and see if it accelerates ok for a while before going back to shooting flames.

Hope this is helpful, I've been there,
Mike

Mike
Good points but I'm sure you didn't mean this?? as some numpty reading it might use their fingers near the compressor while its actually running[:-][:-] I'm sure you meant something else.

Paul

DW Crash

Dave

How did you teach the FADEC to relearn on the new pump? How long were you using the old pump?

Did you run the new Housl pump in for 1-2 hours on 2.4 volt on a loop with filters to collect the gear fines that block the fuel needle jets and bed in the bushes??

By the way Peter's pumps are one of the best worldwide but no one should really use the JJ pumps for any flying or serious operation. Please give the pulse width or voltage when the flames occur.

Fuzzy logic in the FADEC by increasing accel delay and not adjusting the stabilty delay down gives adverse effect, as you move the throttle quickly but the accel delay counters this, by slowing up the increase in turbine rpm, the pump rpm from pump voltage needs to adjust, so it know X voltage on the pump, give Y rpms on the turbine and safe EGT.

It may become apparent that while all the settings given here previously on this thread may work, some are more productive than others [8D]especially for flying. Flames out the back mean tooo much [:@][:@] fuel from the pump, CC disintegrating or mechanical drag/binding. Flame out!! in the air may mean lost or damaged models. Simply stating parameters given are correct factory settings[8D] ignores that the factory has not adjusted or run the turbine, ignores many other basic factors such as the pump type. Some in the end like Mike, Chris and others had to ship theirs back to China. Keep trying as the JJ can work as stated here.

Paul