tim777jet

i use 70mm nose wheel, cheap plastic hub item (i think Dubro), which has lasted around 115 flights, and i now use ally main wheels (68mm) with soft rubber tyres and inserts, purly because the ally rims gave me a niece easy ready made brake linning for my o ring brakes. The Ally wheels i bought in France, they are half the weight (at Least) of any other ally wheels i found in the shop and dirt cheap. Cant remember the name but i posted it ages ago on this forum.
There is nothing wrong with plastic wheel hubs, mine nose has never worn out and has no bearings at all. It has survived the nose gear being torn out on couple of occasions.

cheers Tim

BaldEagel

For those of you just starting a jet conversion, or even you guys that have used the original CA hinges, the flaps as we know need to extend down below what is available with the taper on the LE of the flap, easy solution is to swap flaps on each wing and turn them over to match, that way you can put Durbro pin hinges in the LE of the untapered part of the flap, I was also able to peel the trim off and reapply to the othe side, can't tell the differnce now.

Mike

tim777jet

nice one mike!

Grodus

On my F-120's the problem was the CA hinges were positioned in the wrong place. I reslotted an put the hinges near the bottom thickness of the flap and trailing edge rather than in the center of the thickness. works great now.

Cody

BaldEagel

Another hot tip, its easier to drill the nosewheel retract when the formers are out of the fus. at least you can put T nuts underneath LOL with a little work I was able to get all the formers out intact, just got to clean them up and Hysol them back in..

I have been iformed that the CANOPIES are out for delivery today, well today has only got 30 mins left, so should not be longer than another week, its only 10 miles to the depot, but they never arrive when they should.

Mike

BaldEagel

I think you will find they are all positioned in the centre, hence the swap over and using pin hinges, I would not trust CA hinges on a jet, but that's a personnal thing.

Mike

billyg5829

My Feedback: (10)

im curious on what servos to use on a super falcon 120, the directions really dont say much of anything, im going to use a Moki 135 and reverse it, maybe robart gear, any suggestions would help, not liking this ARF it doesnt tell much and leaves a lot to consider, plus i havent found much on people that have built them,

fw190pilot

I used 125 ounce metal gear servos on all control surfaces. Putting a turbine on mine so put full size servos on all control surfaces.

tim777jet

hi billy, there is wealth of info on this forum. I posted up all my install and weights of every item ages ago. People have there own preference on radio gear and servos etc. I use standards on elevator(just one) and the ailerons. Flaps and rudders use smaller servos. I use the existing plastic control arms, some use metal. remember none of these control surfaces are ballanced. I have never had flutter. If you use digital servos the current drain will be slightly higher. I use 6 volts from a regulator to power servos, remember some digital servos can not use 6 volts, so check first. i posted a warning about that a long time ago, search for my user name, all info is there. Tim

leelevinson

My Feedback: (37)

I use BVM 2 5/8" wheels + brakes on the mains and a BVM 2 1/4" on the nose of my Falcon.
Dreamworks number BVM-5679 and BVM-5672N.

I did not use the plastic inserts that came with the kit.
If you fill the main wheel well openings with balsa to construct a wheel well and grind down the exposed rib the BVM 2 5/8" mains fit well.

akpepp

JETJOE Turbine MOUNT.....copied Joeflyer, I just changed the dimensions to make it fit a JetJoe 1400. I have a pdf file if anyone wants it. I printed it out and glued it to the aluminum sheet, cut it out and bent it to shape. Also copied Joeflyer's fuel tank (64oz. Ocean Spray juice bottle). I believe it was cranapple. My wife questioned me...said boy you liked that juice didn't you. you drank it so fast....then she saw it sitting in the plane with fuel fittings coming out of it. She just shook her head. LOL

PS Make the inside bends outside the inner lines...otherwise it will come out too narrow. I placed the line at the edge of the block of wood I bent around and it came out just right.

Aussie1

Billy g, if you start at page one and work your way through this thread, it will take you about 6 hours, especially if you check out all the links! I think that most of the answers will be there, if not plenty of modellers around the world will help you out. This forum saved me alot of time and research, because the manufacturer never intended this ARF to be a turbine model.

sweetpea01

My Feedback: (10)

Nope........had they: the price would be be $1k instead of $200 or less

BaldEagel

If you guys are converting to turbine, this is what the rear support looks like on the inside after you remove the formers, there is no support for the engine mounting plate beyone the rear end of the support, it needs beefing up, either drill through the support and glass in some carbon rod or some other means to support the weight of the turbine through to the fus sides, otherwise the fus will crack at the support back end and the engine will be loose and possibly fall off in flight, now that would be interesting. LOL

Mike

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

Mike is correct. If you bounce a landing it is likely that you'll crack the fuse back there, especially if you're using a larger engine. If you look back in this thread you'll find postings where that has happened to several of us and some other proposed fixes.

Joe

BaldEagel

Well the Canopies have arrived at last, they took four days to travel 4,500miles and six days to travel the last 20miles, now that is efficient and I don't think, the only saving grase of all this, is that they where worth waiting for, very good quality and thickness and cystal clear with mould lines to cut and paint too if so desired, also as I ordered five canopies, I can vouch for the consistency as also being good, if not excellent.

Good Job Ray.

Any of you guys in the UK who want one of these please PM me, I will work out the costs and let you know.

Mike

NightFlyer1

This is what joeflyer did! I also did this!

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

Any force exerted in the mount area is concentrated along that 90 degree corner at the front of the mount shelf. After 30 some flights I managed to bounce a landing and it cracked there. You need to do something to tie the mount area better to the rear fuse structure and distribute the load. My Wren weighs about 2 lbs. 3 oz., a heavier engine would produce a crack much easier.

Joe

flyguide7

Hey Guys thanks for the heads up on the motor mount base. I am going to add some additional glass this weekend. To tie the mount base into the rest of the fuse.

BaldEagel

The motor mount is a cantilever structure and in engineering terms the support for a cantilever should be one third cantilever and two thirds support, in other words if the cantilever is 4" then the support should be tied back into the supporting structure by 8", thats why I suggested the drill and carbon rod solution, Joe and Nightflyers solution is along those lines also.

What I aim to do is to cut out the centre of the support and rout out the sides to allow a cantilever beam to be installed, this will allow the turbine to be lowered into a more favorable position with the 5deg of down thrust required.

Mike

tim777jet

This is how i beefed my engine mount up when it cracked.

A picture is worth a hundred words

look at post #1295 dated 7/9/2008

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_59...anchor/tm.htm#


cheers Tim

joeflyer

My Feedback: (48)

I followed Tim's lead. That's an obvious weak point in the fuse, and I suspect most will eventually crack there given enough flights. It's easier to reinforce it during the build phase than to pull everything out to do later. The only ones that might not need it are those flying with a Wren 44.

Joe

TURBINATOR

Well guys,

I lost my Falcon yesterday. Dumb thumb incident on flight 80, interesting it happened on Pearl Harbor day. The crash completely destroyed the fuse, wings, and tailbooms. However, would you know that the wing tube was in perfect condition and the mount area for the turbine was not damaged even though the turbine was thrown from the fuse. So much for the weak areas we have been so concerned about lately. Well, back to square one on a new one.


Jeff

jdimari

Hello all, I just got my Falcon 120 in the mail and, of course, because the wife got it for me for Christmas I can't get at it 'till then. I have been reading as much as I can in the mean time, on this thread for turbine modification and I'm sure as soon as I get into it I'll have a bunch of questions. Since this will be my first turbine, I have been looking around at them and was wondering about the jetjoes. I found the jj1200mk2 at 12lbs of thrust and thought it might be a good match for power and weight. I'd like to hear from anyone about them and if this would be enough for the plane? They seem really reasonable in price as well. Any help would be great.
Thanks,
DiMari

akpepp

Well you will have a bunch of people tell you they are no good. How many of those people have actually had one is another story. No matter what turbine you buy - use a good fuel filter. I have just purchased a JJ1400 for my Falcon. The turbine I have has been updated from what I had seen when researching turbines. It looks really good to me but I may not be the best judge of appearance. This is my first turbine and I am optimistic that it will be OK. I recommend Jetjoecentral.com. Mark ran my engine and set it up before shipping it out. He is really good to work with and I have confidence in his expertise. Look on the JetJoe owners thread and you will see a picture of mine. That is also a good thread to read before you buy.