Hi all i am not using any resricters and the screws on my valve are way out so i just do not know what to try next,i have never had this problem before but i will get it right.I had two more flight,s today the british weather is perfect at the moment for flying its too nice to go to work,i can not down load video so i will take another with a different camera that i know i can down load.ihope some body else is close to flying soon i want to see if it is just me who is getting prob,s or if it is a common prob,regards Keith

Hi Mike jr821s sound good to me should be plenty on a small model like the Raffele,be carefull with a Jetjoe i have seen a couple one would only give 8lbs thrust,the other needed a lot of work to get it to even run regards Keith

check that you don't have any binding of the retract frame when the screws are tightened, otherwise you can do as i suggested in the previous post, just roll it after you hit the gear switch and they'll drop right in.

Keith,

Oh , I see you got an eye problem....... You just can't see being at work [sm=lol.gif] Congratulations on successful flights.

Are you using the valves that came with the kit?
can you provide a picture of your setup? How long are your air lines?
Are you using cable ties to hold the airlines in place? could the airline be collapsed?

Regards,
Mike

Keith,

Do your retracts work OK on the ground? I just finished hooking mine up and they work fine on the bench with anything over 40 or 50 psi. Check for any binding in the retract units, lube them if necessary. You could have an airleak somewhere. Also check for any pinched airlines.

I'm installing my engine now. Other than that not much left to do. I am waiting for one of Mike's fuel tanks, which I should get in a week or so. I won't be flying it anytime soon though. It was 1 degree F here yesterday (-17C).

Joe

Hello

Who has a Fly Eagle Jet F15 except USSCAT ??

Thanks
JeanFi

Hi Mike i am using up3 valve,the retracks work perfect on the ground,with 120psi i get 4/5 ups/downs with still some air left.they bang up and down with no hesitation this is what i cannot work out[>:] The only way i can get them to retract is to slow the model up or hit the switch quick after lift off before the air speed increases regards Keith

Keith,

[sm=71_71.gif][sm=72_72.gif][sm=75_75.gif][sm=50_50.gif][sm=idea.gif]

Can you shorten the length of your lines to the retract for up action? I am wondering if you are loosing some of the force due to long length (that is if they are long). If that is not the case....is this a new up3 valve that you are using? do you have another proven one that you could replace it with? I hope you can come up with an answer before mine is ready.......[sm=wink_smile.gif] I am using two of their valves with a jettronic sequencer and jettronic brake valve for the brake.

Are you using a gyro for the nose wheel?

Regards,
Mike

Who has the Rafale?

Will anything larger than Artes Super Bee fit?

I wil have that engine for my Shokjet—could pop it into the Rafale, but the Rafale weighs 17lbs—let’s say 19lbs with redundant batts, smoke, etc. I need more power—so those of you who have it, please measure the with of across the mounting rails and tell me…

Thanks…

Mr DJ

I was wrong about which mag has Anton of Skymaster possing next to his up coming F-14. It’s in Feb/Mar 08 RC Jet International—I’m sure all of your are subscribers like me. Anyways, he’s working on upwards of 8 new planes including a larger F-18—it shows a photo of it as well. I’ll try to scan and post.

Mr DJ

Mr. DJ,

If you look at the build manual pictures on Fly Eagle's website you can get an idea of how much room there is. It appears that there is room for a larger engine. However, it's not a very big airplane and I would caution you about letting it get much heavier.

From the flight videos it seems pretty fast with a P-60 and Super Bee. If you really feel you need extra power a Wren Super Sport would be your best bet (same size and weight as a 54 with 18+ lbs. thrust). They're great engines. I just took delivery of my second one, which is going in my F-16.

Joe

Kool Beans, Joe...

I'll look into the Wren Super Sport...

I have a carnard prop plane--Long EZ 160. The carnards are in fact the elevators. Those on the Rafale seem way too small to function as elevators. Do they really work?

Thanks...

Mr DJ

Hi Mike,
I ordered my Rafale in December, so are they shipping now then? Trying to figure out when I might see mine
Jeremy

Being a delta the Rafale has elevons. So the canards work in conjunction with the elevons for pitch control.

Joe

About the Rafale,

I told Fly Eagle to make my rafale's fuel tank larger so I can fit a P70 on later. The 5 minutes flight on a super bee is too short, not to mention on a P70.

The canards are definitely functional. Anything goes over 70mph is functional. Have you even stuck out your finger to the other driver while driving 75MPH on a freeway? Well, I did that quite a bit in Los Angeles.

Mike

Mr DJ,

The distance between the engine mount on the Rafale is about 4 1/4. The plane is pretty light, I am sure it wont be more than 15-17 lbs fully loaded. Hope that helps.

Regards,
Mike

Hi Mike i think i found the problem a trapped air line which was quite squashed,i have taken every thing out today and re-plumbed it, this time i have use Robart tubing as the fej stuff is not a good seal on the air nipples and is also stiff,the robart stuff goes around corners much better regards Keith

Hi Keith,

I am glad you found the problem, now may want to use the robart restrictos to slow down the retract action [sm=lol.gif] Everytime I actuate them, it scares me to death..... I am affraid it will brake something sooner or later. I plan to use restrictors for the up and down motion.

Regards,

Mike

you're funny, Mike... [>:]

Kool Beans, Mike...

Mr DJ

That's what I was thinkin'--thanks for the confirmation, Joe...

Mr DJ

Ok Guys, I have had it. Has anyone used the hot pink valves that come with the kit? I am having a tough time with them, it leaks air when it is fully pulled in. If anyone has used them succesfully, please share your secret. I am about to throw them away and use robarts or other gizmos that I have in my boxes.....got to find them first.....

Regards,
Mike

Mike,

I'm using two of them, for gear and for doors, and they seem to work fine. Try adjusting your ATV so that the valve is not fully pulled in. I can't say that I have thoroughly tested them. I've had them hooked up several times while installing the plumbing, working out the sequencing and figuring how many and where to locate the restrictors. Right now my equipment tray is out of the plane while I'm installing the engine.

Pull the plungers out and put some grease on the o-rings. Reinstall them and exercise the valve a few times. As I indicated above I have my ATV set so that the plunger does not move all the way in either direction. I'd guess I'm stopping about 1/16" short of full travel in each direction. Don't know if that is helping or not. Also make sure that your servo is not putting any side load on the plunger.

Joe

Joe,

Thanks for the info. I have tried not to put side loading on them, but at either end of the servo travel, there is a bit of side loading. Are you using a threaded rod to make the connection or are you using some sort of flex shaft?
The o rings that they are using may not have been fitted properly. The grove in the shaft may have been cut too deep allowing the o ring to collapse at a slight side loading. I have replaced one of them with a robart valve with flow controls on both sides. I may have another flat/square aluminum valves some where in the shop that I can use.
I gather that you are using a sequencer, which brand are you using? Also are you planing to use a Gyro for the nose wheel?

Regards,
Mike

Mike,

On the air valves I'm using a short threaded rod with a clevis at each end. The tiny hole in the plunger end is orientated vertically so that the clevis is free to rotate horizontally in order to not induce any side load. Also as I mentioned before make sure your ATV is set so that the plunger stops before hitting the mechanical stop.

I had a Jomar electronic sequencer that I was planning on using. So I set up separate servos useing the supplied air valves. After hooking everything up I discovered that when the gear is down and I turned on the radio, the servos would jump to the up position then back to the down position. So I nixed the sequencer.

My solution was to mix an aux. channel (for doors) to the gear channel, then use the servo slow feature of my 9303 to sequence them. Now with gears down and doors open when I hit the up switch the gear servo moves at normal speed to retract the gear. The door servo slowly moves to the close position allowing the gear to be tucked away before the doors close. When I select the gear down position the door servo moves at normal speed to immediately open the doors and the gear servo slowly moves to the down position. Works great.

I have a gyro on the nose wheel. My Gripen, which is probably a worse case, was really bad for ground handling until I added a gyro plus a few other tweeks. Because of its narrow gear I figured I just start out with a gyro on the F-16.

Joe

Joe