FLy Eagle Jet Models
03-10-2008 | 11:14 PM
#676
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RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
ORIGINAL: Jgwright
Hi Jeremy
I will take some pictures later today and post them. You are right there was no mount for the elevator servo. I made up 2 aluminium L shaped brackets, bolted them to the servos and it screws to the supplied rear plate. I also made sure that the push rod is very short and stiff with strong clevises. I thought that this servo needs to be a decent torque and I have gone for the new Futaba 451 brushless servos for the elevons and the elevator.
I have mounted the Rx and elevator servo on the rear install plate and the ECU and I/O board on the rear of the front one and the valves and fillers right at the front. I did some trial balancing and it looks like I will be able to balance without lead by putting the ecu and rx batteries up in the nose. My trial weight was 14.5 lbs, but this was not with everything in place.
I should finish the installation today if the retract valve and sequencer arrives.
I did not use the supplied air pipe as I thought it was rather stiff. I used normal Robart air lines. I had fun getting the lines off the nipples as the factory had super glued them onto the nipples. I managed to run the lines up into the wing roots and they are almost completely hidden. For once I have a reasonably neat installation. This is the frst time I have used a JetCat and it does have a bulkier and heavier installation than I am used to, however it has fitted in ok.
John
Hi Jeremy
I will take some pictures later today and post them. You are right there was no mount for the elevator servo. I made up 2 aluminium L shaped brackets, bolted them to the servos and it screws to the supplied rear plate. I also made sure that the push rod is very short and stiff with strong clevises. I thought that this servo needs to be a decent torque and I have gone for the new Futaba 451 brushless servos for the elevons and the elevator.
I have mounted the Rx and elevator servo on the rear install plate and the ECU and I/O board on the rear of the front one and the valves and fillers right at the front. I did some trial balancing and it looks like I will be able to balance without lead by putting the ecu and rx batteries up in the nose. My trial weight was 14.5 lbs, but this was not with everything in place.
I should finish the installation today if the retract valve and sequencer arrives.
I did not use the supplied air pipe as I thought it was rather stiff. I used normal Robart air lines. I had fun getting the lines off the nipples as the factory had super glued them onto the nipples. I managed to run the lines up into the wing roots and they are almost completely hidden. For once I have a reasonably neat installation. This is the frst time I have used a JetCat and it does have a bulkier and heavier installation than I am used to, however it has fitted in ok.
John
John,
What servo are you using for Rudder? How much torque do you feel it will need? I want to put a JR DS168 in there which I believe is 53oz of torque. As for the rest of the servo's, the hitec rep talked me into trying hitec servo's in this jet. They made me a pretty upstanding offer so here's trying, hope I don't have any problems. I did pick the biggest baddest servo's they had for the elevons and canard (5955's)
Thanks
Jeremy
03-11-2008 | 03:58 AM
#677
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
Ditto Lookilook!
Mike,
I have sent you 2 Pm's about the tanks and the sidewinders........
I would like to buy them..but i can't get you to talk to me.......
best wishes
David
Mike,
I have sent you 2 Pm's about the tanks and the sidewinders........
I would like to buy them..but i can't get you to talk to me.......
best wishes
David
03-11-2008 | 06:17 AM
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From: Norfolk , UNITED KINGDOM
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
Hi Jeremy
I am still waiting for the electronic valve so the full install pictures will be a few days. It would not be easy to install servo operated valves as there is so little room. The engine bay is finished though. I have included a picture of the pipework under the first equipment plate.
The fin is quite thin and I decied to use a Hitec HS125 thin wing servo that I have used often before. I have used these for aileron servos on 44 powered models as well as the rudder. There is no doubt a better servo, but I had one of these available and have used them before. I will be running at 6v. I am using the new Futaba brushless digital 451 servos for the elevons and canard. This is probably overkill but wanted to give them a try.
John
I am still waiting for the electronic valve so the full install pictures will be a few days. It would not be easy to install servo operated valves as there is so little room. The engine bay is finished though. I have included a picture of the pipework under the first equipment plate.
The fin is quite thin and I decied to use a Hitec HS125 thin wing servo that I have used often before. I have used these for aileron servos on 44 powered models as well as the rudder. There is no doubt a better servo, but I had one of these available and have used them before. I will be running at 6v. I am using the new Futaba brushless digital 451 servos for the elevons and canard. This is probably overkill but wanted to give them a try.
John
03-11-2008 | 06:26 AM
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From: widnes, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
is anyone using any kind of heat shield aft of the hot end of the turbine near the thrust pipe etc i have used bvm heat shield on the boomerang intro before but do not know if i should use some when i get my F 16 as this will be my first scale jet using the thrust pipe.
Thanks in advance
Rob
Thanks in advance
Rob
03-11-2008 | 07:16 AM
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From: Norfolk , UNITED KINGDOM
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
Rob
If you look closely at my installation photo you will see that I have put a thin metal u shape under the rear of the engine at the end of the engine to fill the gap between the pipe and engine. I used a piece of thin scrap titanium, stainless as used for the exhaust would do just as well. The reason for doing this if for any reason lighted fuel drips from the engine at startup it will not burn on the epoxy. I did badly damage a model like this once. In theory it should not be needed but I feel more comfortable knowing it is there. The counter to this is that if drips do fall below it they may be difficult to reach with the extinguisher. I have not found it necessary to paint the fuselage all around the point of the gap.
John
If you look closely at my installation photo you will see that I have put a thin metal u shape under the rear of the engine at the end of the engine to fill the gap between the pipe and engine. I used a piece of thin scrap titanium, stainless as used for the exhaust would do just as well. The reason for doing this if for any reason lighted fuel drips from the engine at startup it will not burn on the epoxy. I did badly damage a model like this once. In theory it should not be needed but I feel more comfortable knowing it is there. The counter to this is that if drips do fall below it they may be difficult to reach with the extinguisher. I have not found it necessary to paint the fuselage all around the point of the gap.
John
03-11-2008 | 07:44 AM
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From: , FL
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
Has anyone completed the F-15 yet? Seriously looking into buying one of these bad boys. Saw one at Florida Jets on a table in Tiger Meet. Looked great. Would the Falcon be a good match for this model and what is everyones experience with this turbine manu. Thanks greatly for the help and response.
03-11-2008 | 08:00 AM
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From: 34590 WabernEurope, GERMANY
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
Hallo,
I´m the guy, who got the brocken F 16 in Germany.
Replacement of wing and fuse is on the way.
I will install my turbine, a Fun Sonic FS 70 direcly in the back, without any pipe.
Only I can do in the moment is, to install the rudder servo, until the replacement arrived.
Sidewinders and tanks from Mike are still orderd.
By the way, it is a pleasure, to get in contact with Mike, helpful, friendly, I hope, to see him some time.
Christian
I´m the guy, who got the brocken F 16 in Germany.
Replacement of wing and fuse is on the way.
I will install my turbine, a Fun Sonic FS 70 direcly in the back, without any pipe.
Only I can do in the moment is, to install the rudder servo, until the replacement arrived.
Sidewinders and tanks from Mike are still orderd.
By the way, it is a pleasure, to get in contact with Mike, helpful, friendly, I hope, to see him some time.
Christian
03-11-2008 | 08:48 AM
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From: widnes, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
Thanks for that john think i will do the same. What about in the tail section where the formers hold the tail pipe looks like wood right onto what i think would be a very hot thrust tube. Does the thrust tube get that hot that maybe some bvm paint on those bits would be needed ??
Rob.
Rob.
03-11-2008 | 09:31 AM
#686
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RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
Rob,
Instead of using the U shaped piece of fiberglass that comes with the F-16 I made a heat shield out of .016" aluminum to go over the area between the rear of the engine case to the pipe bellmouth. Also I put aluminum tape on the bypass underneath the engine in that same area. The outer pipe stays relatively cool compared to the inner pipe and as you get further away from the engine the cooler it gets. Nonetheless I also stuck some aluminum tape to the inside of the fuse above the pipe (heat rises), from the engine hatch to about half the length of the pipe. The formers and inside of the tailcone were painted with BVM Heatshield.
Christian
How much does the FS70 weigh? If you read back in this thread you will see that myself and a few others had to add considerable nose weight to balance the F-16 with the engine in the conventional location. Anything heavier than a P-60 or Super Bee (about 800 gm.) in the tail would cause the plane to come out heavier after balancing than if it was mounted in the conventional location.
I have a Wren SS, mounted conventionally and shifted as far forward as possible, in mine and had to put 24 oz. (700 gm.) of batteries in the nose to balance it. If there were any more weight up there I'd be worried about breaking off the nose first time I bounced a landing.
Joe
Instead of using the U shaped piece of fiberglass that comes with the F-16 I made a heat shield out of .016" aluminum to go over the area between the rear of the engine case to the pipe bellmouth. Also I put aluminum tape on the bypass underneath the engine in that same area. The outer pipe stays relatively cool compared to the inner pipe and as you get further away from the engine the cooler it gets. Nonetheless I also stuck some aluminum tape to the inside of the fuse above the pipe (heat rises), from the engine hatch to about half the length of the pipe. The formers and inside of the tailcone were painted with BVM Heatshield.
Christian
How much does the FS70 weigh? If you read back in this thread you will see that myself and a few others had to add considerable nose weight to balance the F-16 with the engine in the conventional location. Anything heavier than a P-60 or Super Bee (about 800 gm.) in the tail would cause the plane to come out heavier after balancing than if it was mounted in the conventional location.
I have a Wren SS, mounted conventionally and shifted as far forward as possible, in mine and had to put 24 oz. (700 gm.) of batteries in the nose to balance it. If there were any more weight up there I'd be worried about breaking off the nose first time I bounced a landing.
Joe
03-11-2008 | 09:56 AM
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From: widnes, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
joe
Does that mean you are not using the top of the bypass ducting just letting the turbine suck air from anywhere in the fuse of have you just left it off for the pictures. Also with the modification with the metal at the end of the turbine cone does this cause any problems with loss of power from the exhaust gasses i read about the wren pipe giving extra thrust if installed properly but can also loose thrust if installed incorrectly as air is drawn into the duct from the gap that is left if you get my meaning.
Rob
Does that mean you are not using the top of the bypass ducting just letting the turbine suck air from anywhere in the fuse of have you just left it off for the pictures. Also with the modification with the metal at the end of the turbine cone does this cause any problems with loss of power from the exhaust gasses i read about the wren pipe giving extra thrust if installed properly but can also loose thrust if installed incorrectly as air is drawn into the duct from the gap that is left if you get my meaning.
Rob
03-11-2008 | 10:39 AM
#688
My Feedback: (49)
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
Rob,
There is no top for the bypass. This is a non-bypassed set up.
The part that I was calling a bypass is actually an extension of the inlet. It extends under the engine serving as a shield. It resembles the botton half of a bypass. If you look at the pictures on the FEJ website you will see what the parts look like.
Absolutely not. I have about an inch gap between the engine tailcone and pipe bellmouth. The aluminum is positioned well above and around the engine allowing plenty of airflow to the pipe. As mentioned in my last post FEJ provides a U shaped piece of fiberglass for this purpose (see installation manual). I merely replaced it with a slightly larger piece of aluminum, since aluminum makes a much better heat shield than fiberglass.
I haven't flown it yet (waiting for spring) but I have run the engine a couple of times in the driveway. It has plenty of power and keeps the fuse nice and cool.
Joe
There is no top for the bypass. This is a non-bypassed set up.
The part that I was calling a bypass is actually an extension of the inlet. It extends under the engine serving as a shield. It resembles the botton half of a bypass. If you look at the pictures on the FEJ website you will see what the parts look like.
Also with the modification with the metal at the end of the turbine cone does this cause any problems with loss of power from the exhaust gasses i read about the wren pipe giving extra thrust if installed properly but can also loose thrust if installed incorrectly as air is drawn into the duct from the gap that is left if you get my meaning.
I haven't flown it yet (waiting for spring) but I have run the engine a couple of times in the driveway. It has plenty of power and keeps the fuse nice and cool.
Joe
03-11-2008 | 11:54 AM
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From: Sunrise,
FL
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
TBM did not fly the F-16 at Florida Jets. Nose Wheel retract leaking air and did not get it test flown prior to the event. However, someone purchased it from them unflown and took it home.
03-11-2008 | 11:56 AM
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From: Sunrise,
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RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
I got the F-15 this week and will begin assembly. TBM told me they are not aware of anyone flying one in the USA yet. I am trying to figure out how the rudders are held in place. Help if anyone knows...
03-11-2008 | 12:27 PM
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From: 34590 WabernEurope, GERMANY
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
How much does the FS70 weigh
the weight of the FS 70 is 725g. I try to place the fuel pump, ECU and valves near the main gear, all other things under the cockpit and nose section.
If I need to much weight, I install the turbine in the middle section and use a pipe.
Christian
03-11-2008 | 02:18 PM
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From: norwich, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
Hi Rob i am using a Wren pipe with my F16, it is much lighter and saves a lot of nose weight,a gap of 30mm between engine and pipe is fine and you will find that thrust loss is at a minium,mine fly,s well on a super sport and in the next RCJI i have writtern a review.The single wall pipe doe,s not get that Hot and gases that exit the pipe are around 200c,i have wrapped ceramic paper around pipe,just where the tail servos are just to be safe,and covered servo leads with sticky ali foil,regards Keith W
03-11-2008 | 03:48 PM
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From: widnes, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
Thanks for that kieth the uk rep told me someone was writing a review for the next mag shall have a good read. Think i will go with the wren pipe as installed propperly can increase the thrust by at least 1lb they told me which i need. Am going to be using the wren 54mk3 i know it is not the best powerplant for this model (might be slightly under power) but i am not someone who wants unlimited verticals am just a steady flyer. With the boomerang intro i have my first install made a much heavier plane than some and the wren is fine in that so fingers crossed.
Thanks for the help
Rob.
Thanks for the help
Rob.
03-11-2008 | 06:24 PM
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From: norwich, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
Hi Rob,wren54 will be OK not ballistic but will fly,main thing to do is try to keep it as light as possable using a Wren pipe is a good start,try not to use heavy battereys,keep engine as far forward as you can regards Keith
03-12-2008 | 02:30 PM
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From: norwich, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
Hi All i have a few third tanks[22 oz] for the FEJ F16 for those of you that live in UK, they are the same as Mike is selling[hope that you do not mind Mike] and can be seen on photo,s a few pages back,it is a good idea for the two main tanks to feed this third tank to prevent air getting to the UAT,anybody would like one please email me though this forum regards Keith W
03-12-2008 | 10:06 PM
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From: Woodstock,
GA
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
Topgun24,
I checked my F-15 pipe mounts and they fit fine, you may need to sand the IDs a bit to get it to fit or email them with the pipe od dimension, and I am sure they will replace it for you. I also looked at the fin installation, I beleive there are some wheel collars in the hardware bag that can be used to secure the fin in place. I did not check my bag of hardware, but I really do not see any other way unless you epoxy/hysol it down.
I have not satrted the F-15 yet, I was almost done with my F-16 till I saw Joe's photos where he used an aluminum cover in place of the fiberglass piece that goes on the end of the semi bypass. I like his Idea and will make the same mod (Thanks Joe).
Regards,
Mike
I checked my F-15 pipe mounts and they fit fine, you may need to sand the IDs a bit to get it to fit or email them with the pipe od dimension, and I am sure they will replace it for you. I also looked at the fin installation, I beleive there are some wheel collars in the hardware bag that can be used to secure the fin in place. I did not check my bag of hardware, but I really do not see any other way unless you epoxy/hysol it down.
I have not satrted the F-15 yet, I was almost done with my F-16 till I saw Joe's photos where he used an aluminum cover in place of the fiberglass piece that goes on the end of the semi bypass. I like his Idea and will make the same mod (Thanks Joe).
Regards,
Mike
03-13-2008 | 04:22 AM
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From: widnes, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: FLy Eagle Jet Models
Wierd some posts have dissapeared again !!
Joe thanks for the reply although it has gone. Was going to ask you with the 2 receiver batteries you have set up i did not know you could put the second pack just into a spare reciever cannel is that right. do you just leave the 2 switches on when in operation and if one goes does the receiver just take juice from the other battery or do they both discharge roughly at the same time ??
Joe thanks for the reply although it has gone. Was going to ask you with the 2 receiver batteries you have set up i did not know you could put the second pack just into a spare reciever cannel is that right. do you just leave the 2 switches on when in operation and if one goes does the receiver just take juice from the other battery or do they both discharge roughly at the same time ??
