FLy Eagle Jet Models
#1926
Have about 30 flights on my Fly Eagle Rafale. The retract units are falling apart. They are made from very soft aluminium including the side plates. This results in the steel trunion pin wearing out the holes in the sideplates
I think this will be my first & last Fly Eagle. I replaced them with Robarts which have steel sideplates.
The old story is usually true, you only get what you pay for.
I think this will be my first & last Fly Eagle. I replaced them with Robarts which have steel sideplates.
The old story is usually true, you only get what you pay for.
#1927

Anyone know a trick to keep the internal o ring in place when assembling F16 1/8 wheels.
I am chasing a leak and when I took the wheel apart the o ring hd jumped out of the groove on factory assembly and flattened it causing the leak.
I can't for the life of me get the ring to stay in place whilst I refit.
Any ideas anyone?
I am chasing a leak and when I took the wheel apart the o ring hd jumped out of the groove on factory assembly and flattened it causing the leak.
I can't for the life of me get the ring to stay in place whilst I refit.
Any ideas anyone?
#1931
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From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: Mavrik!
Horses for courses. Buy cheap expect to make some Mods! Buy a Korean made Kia Motor Vehicle, dont expect the performance and quality of a German made BMW. I have a FEJ F16 and yes had to make Mods including tail pipe, but as an experienced modeller (which all jet flyers should be), enjoyed the challenge and now have a fautless F16. BTW the FEJ F16 flies extremely well and is generally the most impressive F16 at the jet meet! I went for the Plus version to keep it light as possible and is very cheap compared to competitors. The Merlin 90 kero in the standard F16 is IMO the best set up you can have!
Happy flying gents!
Mav
Horses for courses. Buy cheap expect to make some Mods! Buy a Korean made Kia Motor Vehicle, dont expect the performance and quality of a German made BMW. I have a FEJ F16 and yes had to make Mods including tail pipe, but as an experienced modeller (which all jet flyers should be), enjoyed the challenge and now have a fautless F16. BTW the FEJ F16 flies extremely well and is generally the most impressive F16 at the jet meet! I went for the Plus version to keep it light as possible and is very cheap compared to competitors. The Merlin 90 kero in the standard F16 is IMO the best set up you can have!
Happy flying gents!
Mav
anyway, im pretty certain everything has been resolved. a tip for anyone else that is having similar issues that i had just have patience and persistance
an update where im at.
After a few more emails to james he replaced what i required to get things working again. So once the replacement bits arrived i got stuck into the building again
I ended up purchasing a Jetcat P80se early last month and thus far am very happy with it. Once the turbine arrived i started my 2 weeks of holidays and almost no sleep saw that my F16 was more or less completed.
I took it out on the weekend for some ground runs and to ensure that everything was going to behave and work as it should. Just as well i did! found out the suspension is miles to soft and the fuel stoppers in the main tanks need to be replaced as they perished the moment pressure and kero hit them causing major fuel leaks. Once the fuel stoppers were replaced we ground ran it again i must say that once the suspension is beefed up its going to be a nice jet, it seemed to track quite well even with the weak suspension, the P80 gave it plenty of push and the brakes were useless at first but after a whole tank of ground runs ended up working nicely. So after the ground runs i walked away with quite a big smile on my face and alarge list of things to change before the test flight which I have scheduled in for this weeked with the local jet inspector so fingers crossed for good test flight and good weather. I will post up photos and the outcome of the test flight on monday when i get back
for those interested my setup ended up being the following
FlyEagle F16 standard
Jetcat P80se
Hitec 5645 digital servos on all surfaces except rudder
Hitec 5245 digital mini servo on the rudder
Powerbox sensor switch with built in reg and battery redundancy
2x Fromeco 5200 Lithium ions as rx packs
1x Fromeco 2600 Lithium ion pack for ecu
Intairco manual valves for Doors and Retracts
Jetronics single brake valve
.2 FlyEagle Exhuast tube
Id also like to put a big thank you out to Mark Molachino from www.Speedfreaks.net.au and Peter Agnewfrom <font color="#008000">www.intairco.net
<font color="#000000">These guys have been legends, a wealth of knowledge and fantastic service, Would highly recommend these guys to anyone looking at getting into or getting an additional jet, I know I will</font>
</font><font color="#000000">Wes</font>
#1934
Senior Member
Do any of you guys know how many mah your rx pack will use when using theFEJ muiltifunction unit for the landing gear, doors and brakes, in a normal 7 - 8 min flight ? just before i decide what size of packs to buy.
At the moment i`m thinking on 2 seperate flightpower 2100`s, but depending on any replys may go to 3200`s just for peace of mind.
Thanks in advance
john
At the moment i`m thinking on 2 seperate flightpower 2100`s, but depending on any replys may go to 3200`s just for peace of mind.
Thanks in advance
john
#1936
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From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
John I, think you should be more worried about balance and carrying dead weight rather then flight times but although i dont have the 5 in 1 unit 2 ground runs and 1 4min flight i put about 150mah per pack for the rx, I cant imagine the 5 in 1 would be too much extra on that maybe 50 mah per flight, so based on that and having 1 2600 mah rx pack id say youd be right for a bout 4 flights before pushing your luck. If you have the 1/8 f16 then dont worry, reading this thread i think nearly everyones has come out tail heavy and most have used batteries in the nose for the weight. Me I have 2 5200 lithium ions for the rx and a 2600 lithium ion for the ecu and even then i had to add 40grams to the nose, hope this helps</p>
#1937
Senior Member
Hi guys,
From reading the couple of replys to my post, i think i could of explained myself a bit better, so here goes -
I`ve been flying a cermark f-16 for a couple of years now, with the following set-up -
jet-cat p70
JR 8411`s on elevator
JR 3401`s on ailerons
JR 161 on rudder
JR 879 on s/noseleg
JR 331`s on brake and retract valve.
i know that this set-up uses around 300 mah per flight, so i assume it will be very similar when i install the same gear into my FEJ f-16. The reason for my original post was, when i read somewhere else in this thread that the FEJ mulitifunction unit gets fairly warm in use, which must mean it draws a fair amount of current ? i was trying to find out just how much it does draw before deciding on what pack sizes. I tend to top up the RX pack every 2nd flight anyway, so it should never be a problem, but you just never know !
From what was said in the second reply regarding CofG, i think it makes sense now to go for the 3200`s and make use of the extra weight. The f-16 i have is the advanced one with the .2mm tail pipe, which wont be helping with the balancing issues.
Again, thanks for the replys
take it easy
john
From reading the couple of replys to my post, i think i could of explained myself a bit better, so here goes -
I`ve been flying a cermark f-16 for a couple of years now, with the following set-up -
jet-cat p70
JR 8411`s on elevator
JR 3401`s on ailerons
JR 161 on rudder
JR 879 on s/noseleg
JR 331`s on brake and retract valve.
i know that this set-up uses around 300 mah per flight, so i assume it will be very similar when i install the same gear into my FEJ f-16. The reason for my original post was, when i read somewhere else in this thread that the FEJ mulitifunction unit gets fairly warm in use, which must mean it draws a fair amount of current ? i was trying to find out just how much it does draw before deciding on what pack sizes. I tend to top up the RX pack every 2nd flight anyway, so it should never be a problem, but you just never know !
From what was said in the second reply regarding CofG, i think it makes sense now to go for the 3200`s and make use of the extra weight. The f-16 i have is the advanced one with the .2mm tail pipe, which wont be helping with the balancing issues.
Again, thanks for the replys
take it easy
john
#1938
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From: Abu Dhabi, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
<span style="font-family: Verdana"><span style="font-size: larger"><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div></span></span>
#1939
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From: Abu Dhabi, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
<font size="3"><span style="font-family: Verdana; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial"><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="font-family: Verdana; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial">
Hi,
Iown three Jets Models fromFLy Eagle Jet:
1-</span><span style="font-family: Verdana"></span><span style="font-family: Verdana; color: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial">Flyeaglejet ARF F18F-large (1:6) Scale with JetCat P200-SX
2-Flyeaglejet ARF F-16 (1:5 1/2) Scale with JetCat P180
3- FLY EAGLE JET 3D Trainer with JetCat P160-SX
</span>
</p></p>
very good quality jets
</p></span></font>
Hi,Iown three Jets Models fromFLy Eagle Jet:
1-</span><span style="font-family: Verdana"></span><span style="font-family: Verdana; color: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial">Flyeaglejet ARF F18F-large (1:6) Scale with JetCat P200-SX
2-Flyeaglejet ARF F-16 (1:5 1/2) Scale with JetCat P180
3- FLY EAGLE JET 3D Trainer with JetCat P160-SX
</span>
</p></p>
very good quality jets
</p></span></font>
#1941

My Feedback: (24)
ORIGINAL: albolooki
<font size=''3''><span style=''font-family: Verdana; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial''><p class=''MsoNormal'' style=''margin: 0in 0in 0pt''><span style=''font-family: Verdana; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial''>
Hi,
I own three Jets Models from FLy Eagle Jet:
1-</span><span style=''font-family: Verdana''> </span><span style=''font-family: Verdana; color: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial''>Flyeaglejet ARF F18F-large (1:6) Scale with JetCat P200-SX
2- Flyeaglejet ARF F-16 (1:5 1/2) Scale with JetCat P180
3- FLY EAGLE JET 3D Trainer with JetCat P160-SX
</span>
</p></p>
very good quality jets
</p></span></font>
<font size=''3''><span style=''font-family: Verdana; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial''><p class=''MsoNormal'' style=''margin: 0in 0in 0pt''><span style=''font-family: Verdana; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial''>
Hi,I own three Jets Models from FLy Eagle Jet:
1-</span><span style=''font-family: Verdana''> </span><span style=''font-family: Verdana; color: black; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial''>Flyeaglejet ARF F18F-large (1:6) Scale with JetCat P200-SX
2- Flyeaglejet ARF F-16 (1:5 1/2) Scale with JetCat P180
3- FLY EAGLE JET 3D Trainer with JetCat P160-SX
</span>
</p></p>
very good quality jets
</p></span></font>
Actually *fly* any of them yet? Operated the gear in flight? Did it without extensive rebuilding/replacement of parts? Post pictures of *that* and then talk about "quality."
Bob
#1942
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From: Kaohsiung County, TAIWAN
here are videos
F16: http://www.youtube.com/v/tJuYnK6UGco&hl=en&fs=1&
F18F: http://www.youtube.com/v/lrd361vYewk&hl=en&fs=1&
Trainer: http://www.youtube.com/v/sXB71UOBmS4...en_US&fs=1&
F86: http://www.youtube.com/user/keen1016.../1/vakoazZDgZQ
and http://www.youtube.com/v/80l1fquZx0o...en_US&fs=1&
F14: http://www.youtube.com/v/jMte9epEQwU...en_US&fs=1&
F16: http://www.youtube.com/v/tJuYnK6UGco&hl=en&fs=1&
F18F: http://www.youtube.com/v/lrd361vYewk&hl=en&fs=1&
Trainer: http://www.youtube.com/v/sXB71UOBmS4...en_US&fs=1&
F86: http://www.youtube.com/user/keen1016.../1/vakoazZDgZQ
and http://www.youtube.com/v/80l1fquZx0o...en_US&fs=1&
F14: http://www.youtube.com/v/jMte9epEQwU...en_US&fs=1&
#1944
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From: monroeville, AL
Hello wessa02 does your hitec 5245 servo mount in the bottom of the vertical fin are do you have the one that mounts under a cover on the fin? Just wanting to know so i can figure out what rudder servo i need. Also can you do knife egde with this set up? Thanks[8D]
#1945
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From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
Hi Starman, My rudder has the servo mounted in the base of the fin, the Hitec 5245 fits in but it needs alot of work and cutting away inside the fin to get it in there. I wouldnt know if it would knife edge as ive only had one flight with it, Id asume it would, hope that helps. The 5245 was the stongest servo at 9kg on 6V from memory everything else was only 3-7kg
#1948
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From: monroeville, AL
[quote]ORIGINAL: Synthetic
KC,
Is this what you used?
Ultra Precision Cylinder 7/16''x 1 1/4''
[UP-716125] $31.00
Thanks,
Don
[/quote
Sorry about that KC I'm just figering this posting thing out. Thanks
#1949
Member
hi everyone,
am finally finishing up my FEJ advanced f16 and have a few questions..
1. my weight came up 9.8kg dry. is that normal. am using P-80non SE
2. how do align the thrust tube accuratly to avoid any up/down thrust.
3. do i need to modify the engine mounting wood to go higher?
4. what's the best replacement for the door cylinders, i gave up on mine, no hope a lot of leaks.
thanx
KAON
am finally finishing up my FEJ advanced f16 and have a few questions..
1. my weight came up 9.8kg dry. is that normal. am using P-80non SE
2. how do align the thrust tube accuratly to avoid any up/down thrust.
3. do i need to modify the engine mounting wood to go higher?
4. what's the best replacement for the door cylinders, i gave up on mine, no hope a lot of leaks.
thanx
KAON
#1950

My Feedback: (24)
Kaon,
Yea, best just replace the door cylinders, you'll save a lot of headaches. I use the Air Power ones from Dreamworks. I think they are the 1" stroke, but shorter ones may even be better - less stress on the door hinges. While you are at it. better reinforce the door hinges where the door cylinder bolts on with polyply. The door cylinders will break free from the hinges if you don't.
You really can't adjust the up/down thrust. That is pretty much set by the height of the engine mount vs. the tail pipe. Even if you could move the engine up or down by an inch, it still wouldn't really affect the up/down thrust. What you really need to do is make sure that the engine is centered in the thrust tube, that the back of the engine bell is 3/4" in front of the front of the thrust tube (i.e., a 3/4" gap between engine and thrust tube), and that the engine lines up with the thrust tube so that its not blowing on one side of the tube or the other (or the top or bottom). If its not centered and lined up in the tube, it will heat up part of the tube and weaken it, possibly to the point of collapse, which is bad.
Also, make *sure* that your landing gear cylinders don't leak. If they do, go ahead and disassemble them now and fix it with Teflon tape under the "O" rings and plenty of "O" ring grease. If they leak now, they will get worse and you'll wind up with a gear-up landing...
Bob
Yea, best just replace the door cylinders, you'll save a lot of headaches. I use the Air Power ones from Dreamworks. I think they are the 1" stroke, but shorter ones may even be better - less stress on the door hinges. While you are at it. better reinforce the door hinges where the door cylinder bolts on with polyply. The door cylinders will break free from the hinges if you don't.
You really can't adjust the up/down thrust. That is pretty much set by the height of the engine mount vs. the tail pipe. Even if you could move the engine up or down by an inch, it still wouldn't really affect the up/down thrust. What you really need to do is make sure that the engine is centered in the thrust tube, that the back of the engine bell is 3/4" in front of the front of the thrust tube (i.e., a 3/4" gap between engine and thrust tube), and that the engine lines up with the thrust tube so that its not blowing on one side of the tube or the other (or the top or bottom). If its not centered and lined up in the tube, it will heat up part of the tube and weaken it, possibly to the point of collapse, which is bad.
Also, make *sure* that your landing gear cylinders don't leak. If they do, go ahead and disassemble them now and fix it with Teflon tape under the "O" rings and plenty of "O" ring grease. If they leak now, they will get worse and you'll wind up with a gear-up landing...
Bob




