Bvm Bob Cat Build thread!
#76
Hey lasse
Those panel line and rivets look great ...... you have inspired me to do the same thing on my bobcat, imitation best form of flattery
Phil.
Those panel line and rivets look great ...... you have inspired me to do the same thing on my bobcat, imitation best form of flattery

Phil.
#77
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From: Stockholm, SWEDEN
ORIGINAL: BIGBARPER
Hey lasse
Those panel line and rivets look great ...... you have inspired me to do the same thing on my bobcat, imitation best form of flattery
Phil.
Hey lasse
Those panel line and rivets look great ...... you have inspired me to do the same thing on my bobcat, imitation best form of flattery

Phil.
I think it's great that you were inspired to do the same with your BC.
Regards
Lasse
#80
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From: BendigoVIC, AUSTRALIA
Hi Lasse,
What is that tool you are using in Post #49, Photos 8 & 9, and where can you get them online? I am assuming it is some sort of hole centering tool?
Tim
What is that tool you are using in Post #49, Photos 8 & 9, and where can you get them online? I am assuming it is some sort of hole centering tool?
Tim
#81

ORIGINAL: timrob
Hi Lasse,
What is that tool you are using in Post #49, Photos 8 & 9, and where can you get them online? I am assuming it is some sort of hole centering tool?
Tim
Hi Lasse,
What is that tool you are using in Post #49, Photos 8 & 9, and where can you get them online? I am assuming it is some sort of hole centering tool?
Tim
8 is a tap (1/4-20 looks like)
9 is a allen driver
#82
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From: Kent, UNITED KINGDOM
Lasse
Your build is getting better and better..Keep it up!
A couple of points.....
Why have you routed one of the aerial wires to outside of the fuz, when keeping it inside is no problem?
I think you might stuggle to get both RJ45 connectors into your Jetcat I/O board as it is mounted very close to the side of the fuz. I may be wrong here but in your photos, it looks as though it may be too tight?
Ian
Your build is getting better and better..Keep it up!
A couple of points.....
Why have you routed one of the aerial wires to outside of the fuz, when keeping it inside is no problem?
I think you might stuggle to get both RJ45 connectors into your Jetcat I/O board as it is mounted very close to the side of the fuz. I may be wrong here but in your photos, it looks as though it may be too tight?
Ian
#84

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From: Longwood ,
FL
The tool in post 49 picture 9 is the Allen driver from BVM. It is a part of the hardware kit supplied with the KingCat, BobCat Composite, Electra, and the Ultra Bandit just to install and remove the 1/4-20 UNC canopy screw.
BVM kits contain the most comprehensive hardware in the industry.
BVM kits contain the most comprehensive hardware in the industry.
#85

BVM kits contain the most comprehensive hardware in the industry.

p.s. My Flash also has a method for removing the canopy included, and you don't need a tool!!
Anyway back to the Bobcat; looking good. I've just been given one to build so will be going through all this again soon
#86

ORIGINAL: siclick33
p.s. My Flash also has a method for removing the canopy included, and you don't need a tool!!
p.s. My Flash also has a method for removing the canopy included, and you don't need a tool!!
but you needed a soldering iron to install the ball on the end of it, if it had been a BVM kit they'd of included a butane torch for soldering the ball.
#87
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From: Stockholm, SWEDEN
ORIGINAL: Harley Condra
BVM kits contain the most comprehensive hardware in the industry.
BVM kits contain the most comprehensive hardware in the industry.
Yes!!
I am really impressed how complete the Bvm kit is..
Even the "toothpick" came with the kit!

#89
Worzey
Nice looking install[sm=thumbup.gif], a question re CG, did you need to keep some weight forward (see you have your batteries up front) for balance?
I haven't decided on a motor yet but am using Lipo's for power and plan to have them very easily removable (for charging purposes[:-]) so I will in summary not have a lot of weight forward.
For info Dave Wiltshire informed me that the 'stock' BVM cg position tends to be conservativly nose heavy.
Phil.
Nice looking install[sm=thumbup.gif], a question re CG, did you need to keep some weight forward (see you have your batteries up front) for balance?
I haven't decided on a motor yet but am using Lipo's for power and plan to have them very easily removable (for charging purposes[:-]) so I will in summary not have a lot of weight forward.
For info Dave Wiltshire informed me that the 'stock' BVM cg position tends to be conservativly nose heavy.
Phil.
#91
Dave
I don't doubt you!!
Whilst you are here do you have any recommendations for a fuel fill valve, along the lines of a gas fill valve, want a neater solution than using a bung in the end of a piece of tube.
Ta
Phil.
I don't doubt you!!
Whilst you are here do you have any recommendations for a fuel fill valve, along the lines of a gas fill valve, want a neater solution than using a bung in the end of a piece of tube.
Ta
Phil.
#92

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From: Longwood ,
FL
The simplest solution is usually the best.
The fuel system is filled through the UAT fill line. Any air leakage at the UAT will result in a flame out.
IMHO, adding a fill valve ahead of the UAT is just adding another possible leakage point in an otherwise simple system. The plug supplied with the UAT is fool proof.
The fuel system is filled through the UAT fill line. Any air leakage at the UAT will result in a flame out.
IMHO, adding a fill valve ahead of the UAT is just adding another possible leakage point in an otherwise simple system. The plug supplied with the UAT is fool proof.
#93
Harley Hi
Yes KISS works for me, in fact I wonder if such a suitable valve exists as it has to be able to admit fuel (under pressure ) on the inlet side and yet exclude air when there is a pressure drop (due to pump suction ) on the outlet side.......
However I am still keen to 'tidy' up the fueling side of things, could of course use a ball shut off valve downstream of the fill valve, but means another action to carry every time you fuel up.
Phil.
Yes KISS works for me, in fact I wonder if such a suitable valve exists as it has to be able to admit fuel (under pressure ) on the inlet side and yet exclude air when there is a pressure drop (due to pump suction ) on the outlet side.......
However I am still keen to 'tidy' up the fueling side of things, could of course use a ball shut off valve downstream of the fill valve, but means another action to carry every time you fuel up.
Phil.
#94

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From: Longwood ,
FL
You can use a Festo one way check valve, such as a Festo QSK-6 on the end of the fill line. I have been using them for years, and heartily recommend them in place of the UAT supplied aluminum plug.
Simply insert the 6 mm line from the fueler, and fill 'er up. Disconnect the filler line leaving the check valve in place on the UAT fill line.
Alternativly, a Festo 6mm ball (QHQS-6) valve works well.
Simply insert the 6 mm line from the fueler, and fill 'er up. Disconnect the filler line leaving the check valve in place on the UAT fill line.
Alternativly, a Festo 6mm ball (QHQS-6) valve works well.
#95
Ok thats interesting I had considered that but was concerned that a Festo one way check valve might admit air at full power settings ( you know how sometimes you can see the sides of the UAT suck in ) but I guess not if you have been using them for years.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info.
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From: SAO JOSE DO RIO PRETO-SP, BRAZIL
Hi Lasse,
we bought a BOBCAT like yours a few months ago, and, we copy your idea with the stickers ( fantastic !!! ), I would like to know if is necessary to put the antenna ( 2.4 ) outside??
congratulations for your plane, and, happy maiden flight!!!
[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
jose[8D]
we bought a BOBCAT like yours a few months ago, and, we copy your idea with the stickers ( fantastic !!! ), I would like to know if is necessary to put the antenna ( 2.4 ) outside??
congratulations for your plane, and, happy maiden flight!!!
[sm=thumbs_up.gif]jose[8D]
#97
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From: Stockholm, SWEDEN
ORIGINAL: josecilurzo
Hi Lasse,
I would like to know if is necessary to put the antenna ( 2.4 ) outside??
congratulations for your plane, and, happy maiden flight!!!
[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
jose[8D]
Hi Lasse,
I would like to know if is necessary to put the antenna ( 2.4 ) outside??
congratulations for your plane, and, happy maiden flight!!!
[sm=thumbs_up.gif]jose[8D]
Hi and thanks!
I do not think it necessary!
It seems that I have drilled an unnecessary hole [:@](listened to those who think they are 2,4 experts here in Sweden).
Personally!! I feel like a beginner at 2,4..
Regards
Lasse Palm
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From: SevenoaksKent, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: Lasse Palm
This is my first 2.4GHz receiver installation! Feel free to have views!![X(]
This is my first 2.4GHz receiver installation! Feel free to have views!![X(]
I wouldn't put that outside the fuselage because a) you don't need to and b) you don't want to damage that part of the aerial.
Also, so you know, it is only the exposed part of the aerials that have to be at 90 degrees to one another.
Final point, I would have one aerial vertically. Whilst yours are at 90 degrees, they are both 'flat'. Having one on the equipment board and one at 90 degrees vertically will work best.
Rgds,
Mark
#100
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From: Kent, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: BIGBARPER
Worzey
Nice looking install[sm=thumbup.gif], a question re CG, did you need to keep some weight forward (see you have your batteries up front) for balance?
I haven't decided on a motor yet but am using Lipo's for power and plan to have them very easily removable (for charging purposes[:-]) so I will in summary not have a lot of weight forward.
For info Dave Wiltshire informed me that the 'stock' BVM cg position tends to be conservativly nose heavy.
Phil.
Worzey
Nice looking install[sm=thumbup.gif], a question re CG, did you need to keep some weight forward (see you have your batteries up front) for balance?
I haven't decided on a motor yet but am using Lipo's for power and plan to have them very easily removable (for charging purposes[:-]) so I will in summary not have a lot of weight forward.
For info Dave Wiltshire informed me that the 'stock' BVM cg position tends to be conservativly nose heavy.
Phil.
Phil
Yes, my Li-po's were kept forward to ensure the model balanced in the correct position (1/16 holes in booms). I also put my ECU Li-po (the two in the picture are for Rx only via Sensor Switch) in the nose secured with foam to make it easy to remove for charging. With this set up and the P-70, mine balances about 6mm behind the recommended c of g.
I personally think that the BC would fly well with the c of g up to 20mm behind the recommended position and hope to experiment with this during the next few months.
Thanks for the compliment on the install!
Just another bit of advice......If DW tells you anything about the products he sells, trust him! This man is like an encyclopedia for aero modellers! When I asked him about how much up elevator I should mix in during crow braking, he said 10mm. Not about 10mm, but 10mm.......he was spot on!
I'm not trying to crawl anywhere the sun don't shine, just sharing my honest opinion.


