Phil

I use the ali plug BVM supply, I like simple. But we have Festo Quick Connect valves with bulkhead mounting you can use if you like adding weight!
On the fuel side at least there is some lubrication to keep the valve working. A simple Hanger 9 Fuel dot is great, keeps the tube outside the fuselage to stop drips and won't ever fail.
The UAT needs a good seal for sure. If you do use a line plug it's good housework to re cut the tube every 6 months.

Dave W

Thanks Mark and Ian!

I think it is best that I change my aerial installation..

Ian!
Very nice looking install..

Lasse P

Have bought a FOD screen from Tam Jets! I think it fits perfect on my P-70.
I also bought some other sweets!

i see you went with the P-60 screen, it looks so much better on the P-70 then the P-70 screen does.

I'm using Tam Jets original FOD screen for Jet Cat P-70 - P-120 (TJFOD03) perfect fit..

Now, I have finally received all the servos and can complete the Aileron/Flap servo installation.
Servo S3050 is for the Nose steering..

in the below pic you posted it's a Tam's P-60 FOD screen.

i run a P-60 screen on my P-70 (which is at JetCat for service so no pic on it) becasue with the P-70-Titan screen it won't fit inside the bypass. the P-70-Titan screens are 4.5 inches diamater.

It is possible!
But I ordered for the P-70,and what I got from Tam jets fit perfectly..

Servo wire/leads from the Aileron,Flap servos and navlights is finished.

Here's a tip!
I use this type of field stand to my BC.

I use an almost identical one to that for my BC, but it is a bit too low when you turn the model upside down to do the wing bolts and the top of the rudder posts touch the ground.

Mounting Bvm skidz (stab tip) on the wings.

Lasse, do you have a problem with the flap inside chord edge to boom clearance ?

yes!
I have the same problem!

I'll be interested how you adjust the clearance, maybe I can copy your technique.
I'm just too scared to go mad with a permagit block and screw it up.

I have not come to any solution yet!

Interesting that there is no mention of this problem (I have it to) in the manual, seems to be a design issue that has never been corrected [sm=confused.gif]

The flap rubbing is a bit of a pain. I had to take quite a lot of material off and seem to remember going almost completely through the composite skin to get enough clearance. I then reinforced that area with a bit of cyano and then a bit of aeropoxy.

I'm not sure there is an elegant solution. You just have to file/dremel it off.

I cut a V shape section along the joint line between the top and bottome skins. It was about an inch long. Seemed to be the easiest way to achieve it. I also had to take a permagrit file to the rear of the flap as that was a sticky fit when the flap was up.

I always start my King Cat with the nose of the model pointed into the wind .
But!!
If you should have fire on start up,is this protect cover, easy/simple to do..

Lasse P

Nice lasse, what did you put on the card prior to the BVM heat shield?

Have you done your flap clearance yet?

Phil.

Regarding the flap clearance, in my experience it is best to just grind out the entire root fiberglass "shell". There is a balsa sub rib behind it. I left about a 1/8 wide FG rim all around the root.

Mine is not the composite one but only need to file a small part of the flap L.E.

BR

Jesus

Here is a little motivation for you (not that you need any)

This pic was taken of mine last weekend on the model's first outing for about 4 months. Everything worked faultlessly