F106A

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Jan,
Yes, I used two small Hiteck metal geared servo's.
I didn't have to cut any holes in the intake duct, the top of the arms just miss the duct..
I have the light ring as far back as I could get it. I had to grind away the excess glu that made a fillet between the former and the bottom of the fuse.
Of course, when they made the model, they weren't concerned about landing lights and there was a lot of excess glue I had to remove.
If you need any more info or pictures, please let me know.
Thanks,
Jon

two dogs

My Feedback: (12)

Our group of jet guys have purchased 11 Skymaster Models over the last 5 or 6 years ....NONE have had major problems.....all flew well and were a pleasure to fly!!

minor problems will be found with every manufacturer's kits........there is no perfect kit ........

With respect to Skymaster....their quality has improved every year and with every new model released.......Anton has always worked to solve and make good on any problem we might encounter.

Dave (Two Dogs) Carter
St. Petersburg, Florida

Springbok Flyer

Jon,

Thanks for that - yes, I have mine set back as far as possible too. But when the lights are retracted, the horn on the light fitting sit about 1/4" into the front intake and is right up against the front rim of the fuselage intake.

Please could you show me a photo with the lights retracted - taken from directly in front?

Cheers,

Jan

F106A

My Feedback: (2)

RCU won't let me upload pictures, says I do not have permission for this action.
What a royal PITA!
Send me a PM with your e-mail address or e-mail me and I'll send them to you via e-mail.
Jon

F106A

My Feedback: (2)

Guess it's working again.
Notice the pushrod is slightly lower than the center of the oval cutout.
I'm pretty sure I didn't shorten the arm.
Let me know if you need more info.
Jon

F106A

My Feedback: (2)

I laid a piece of paper from the intake cowl to the former.
With the light extended, it's approximately 5/8" from the top of the arm to the paper.
With the light retracted, it's about 5/16" from the top of the arm to the intake.
Hope this helps.
Jon

pilot tw

Share the F86 1/5 run 1 from JWM 2013, Pilot: Adrian Senn / Swiss team


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_Ty1ZZJeU0

Springbok Flyer

Hi Anton,

Thanks for that video. Do you know what turbine he is using? Is he using the suggested throws on the leading edge slats? The drop tanks also seem to be straighter and not drooping as the kit. So did he change the drop tank pylons?

Regards,

Jan

ravill

My Feedback: (11)

What Jan said!

And great vid. It seemed to take off quite nicely and that landing was beautiful. Looks like a sweetheart.

Springbok Flyer

Hi guys,

Well my Sabre is getting along fine and should be ready to maiden shortly. I have discovered that the landing lights I received were not correct for my model and Dan from Details4Scale has undertaken to send me the correct ones.

As I am nearing the end of this build It would be nice the hear what other guys are at weight wise. Of course everyone will be flying different configurations, so please let us know the following;

- with or without drop tanks
- with or without full bypass ducting
- new or old tank setup
- turbine thrust

Thanks for the help so far (just wish Anton would answer my earlier question too).

Cheers,

Jan

F106A

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Jan,
Glad you got the lights sorted out.
My weight is 42 pounds dry, including about 1.5 pounds in the nose for balance.
Does not include drop tanks or full bypass. I'm using the new tank setup with a SimJet NEXUS with 36 pounds thrust.
My fuel capacity is 192 ounces, about 9 pounds fuel load.
If the weather will cooperate I'll fly it this week.
BRG,
Jon

dubd

Jon, do you have any pictures of your Sabre?

MNModels

Jan,

Senn is using a P160SX. His fuel tanks are the latest with the cg on rear pin. He made his own drop tanks. Weight is 19kg. He is currently in the top 10!

Rgds

Morne

Springbok Flyer

Morne',

Thanks for that. Can you check how much slat he is using with his flap and what throws he is using on ailerons and elevators. The CG you mention on the rear pin is 505mm - sure you don't mean the the rear wing spar? That would be 360mm. Most guys are flying 390 mm which is between the rear wing spar and the front of the wheel doors. Please confirm.

Did he also make his own drop tank pylons?

Cheers,

Jan

F106A

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Jan,
Here's a picture inside my friends paint booth. SM painted most of the plane, my friend Fred touched it up and put on the markings and painted the JG 71 shield.
The decals are from Ralle at Tailormade decals.
Do you know the size of the front pinch bolt that hold s the fin on? 2MM is too small and 2.5 is too big.
Thanks,
Jon

F106A

My Feedback: (2)

Here's another.

dubd

Looks really nice! The added decals really make it stand out.

Springbok Flyer

[QUOTE=F106A;11604779]Hi Jan,
Do you know the size of the front pinch bolt that hold s the fin on? 2MM is too small and 2.5 is too big.
Thanks,
Jon [QUOTE]

Jon,

Looking good mate.

I cannot tell you what size it is, but what I am sure of is that both the pinch bolts are the same. I also know that I use a 2.5 mm driver to tighten them. Hope that helps.

Cheers,

Jan

Springbok Flyer

Hi Jon,

It has been a few weeks now, have you flown it yet?

Cheers,

Jan

Springbok Flyer

Morne',

Rear pin or rear wing joiner?

Cheers,

Jan

dubd

I have a 160SX and 180RX that I can use with my F-86. Will this plane benefit from the 180 or is the 160 good enough?

Jan & Jon, how did your maidens go?

jetpilot

My Feedback: (48)

Mine flew with a Titan at 33lbs thrust. Im at sea level. I have seen P200 in them.
Scott

dubd

Thanks, Scott. Did you like the performance with the Titan?

jetpilot

My Feedback: (48)

Very scale, which is what I like. You might prefer to do a 100 vertical rolls though!
Scott

dubd

LOL just looking for enough power to do a 700-800' vertical.