Large Skymaster Hawk build
#326
ORIGINAL: rc4flying
Again, I ask if there is anyone that can post a good clear picture and measurement of the Hawk's stab neutral flying position during flying ?
Again, I ask if there is anyone that can post a good clear picture and measurement of the Hawk's stab neutral flying position during flying ?
Here you go.
#327

My Feedback: (21)
Thank You Colin and dubd for the references and Pic.
I had set mine up to the suggested position in my BVM manual which is 1 1/4" below the double row of rivets. This just did not look right to me, and after seeing dubd's pic and a couple of pics i found early in this thread from Colin's suggestion. Don't know how I missed these pic earlier. I have come to the conclusion that that 1 1/4" reference can not be right. So I will go back and readjust my stab's neutral to match this info.
The suggested position and what the pics show as positions, my stab if off by 5/16". This would have used up all of my trim adjustment on a maiden that could have been a problem.
Thank You for the help guys.
I had set mine up to the suggested position in my BVM manual which is 1 1/4" below the double row of rivets. This just did not look right to me, and after seeing dubd's pic and a couple of pics i found early in this thread from Colin's suggestion. Don't know how I missed these pic earlier. I have come to the conclusion that that 1 1/4" reference can not be right. So I will go back and readjust my stab's neutral to match this info.
The suggested position and what the pics show as positions, my stab if off by 5/16". This would have used up all of my trim adjustment on a maiden that could have been a problem.
Thank You for the help guys.
#328
Well, I decided to go the hard way and did what Inconel did.
It's hard to understand why SM puts the fuel tank 4in. ahead of the CG. Maybe it is because they recomend a very forward CG
I cut of the intakes and install the fuel tank near the CG. That way it will have less to none CG variation during the flight. Also because I have a heavy cockpit with double animatronic pilots, I need a bit of weight in the rear, so decided to move the turbine a bit backwards. My goal is to have a CG at 215-220mm without any weight
I'll post pics next time.
Regards
Nuno
It's hard to understand why SM puts the fuel tank 4in. ahead of the CG. Maybe it is because they recomend a very forward CG
I cut of the intakes and install the fuel tank near the CG. That way it will have less to none CG variation during the flight. Also because I have a heavy cockpit with double animatronic pilots, I need a bit of weight in the rear, so decided to move the turbine a bit backwards. My goal is to have a CG at 215-220mm without any weight
I'll post pics next time.
Regards
Nuno
#329

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From: CORAL GABLES,
FL
Thanks for the quick reply Anton, This is my first jet, the Hawk 100 will be my first jet build also, and this thread is going to be very helpful,I would like to thank to all the builders and pilots who have contributed to this thread. Hopefully my hawk is being built as we speak, this is the worst part ,the waiting for delivery(LOL).
If any one has any suggestions I would really appreciate their input, Dustin from Jetaddiction.com ,Pablo Fernandez and Rei Gonzalez, have been a great help,in choosing the equipment needed. thanks
J.C. Alvarez
This is the Scheme I chose
If any one has any suggestions I would really appreciate their input, Dustin from Jetaddiction.com ,Pablo Fernandez and Rei Gonzalez, have been a great help,in choosing the equipment needed. thanks
J.C. Alvarez
This is the Scheme I chose
#330

ORIGINAL: j.c.a.
Thanks for the quick reply Anton, This is my first jet, the Hawk 100 will be my first jet build also, and this thread is going to be very helpful,I would like to thank to all the builders and pilots who have contributed to this thread. Hopefully my hawk is being built as we speak, this is the worst part ,the waiting for delivery(LOL).
If any one has any suggestions I would really appreciate their input, Dustin from Jetaddiction.com ,Pablo Fernandez and Rei Gonzalez, have been a great help,in choosing the equipment needed. thanks
J.C. Alvarez
This is the Scheme I chose
Thanks for the quick reply Anton, This is my first jet, the Hawk 100 will be my first jet build also, and this thread is going to be very helpful,I would like to thank to all the builders and pilots who have contributed to this thread. Hopefully my hawk is being built as we speak, this is the worst part ,the waiting for delivery(LOL).
If any one has any suggestions I would really appreciate their input, Dustin from Jetaddiction.com ,Pablo Fernandez and Rei Gonzalez, have been a great help,in choosing the equipment needed. thanks
J.C. Alvarez
This is the Scheme I chose
WOW. this is my favorite color scheme for Hawk 100, very nice,
#331

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From: CORAL GABLES,
FL
Awesome, Now I don't have any doubt of how my plane will look , Justin from BVM said that he does not recall selling that color scheme in the U.S. now the wait will be a little easier knowing how good it will look.
Thanks Anton for the info
J.C. Alvarez
Thanks Anton for the info
J.C. Alvarez
#332

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From: CORAL GABLES,
FL
ORIGINAL: Inconel
Hi Guys,
still have finished one more SM Hawk. Can someone confirm me the new CG with 210-220mm ?
Hi Guys,
still have finished one more SM Hawk. Can someone confirm me the new CG with 210-220mm ?
Thanks
J.C. Alvarez
#333
ORIGINAL: j.c.a.
Thanks for the quick reply Anton, This is my first jet, the Hawk 100 will be my first jet build also, and this thread is going to be very helpful,I would like to thank to all the builders and pilots who have contributed to this thread. Hopefully my hawk is being built as we speak, this is the worst part ,the waiting for delivery(LOL).
If any one has any suggestions I would really appreciate their input, Dustin from Jetaddiction.com ,Pablo Fernandez and Rei Gonzalez, have been a great help,in choosing the equipment needed. thanks
J.C. Alvarez
This is the Scheme I chose
Thanks for the quick reply Anton, This is my first jet, the Hawk 100 will be my first jet build also, and this thread is going to be very helpful,I would like to thank to all the builders and pilots who have contributed to this thread. Hopefully my hawk is being built as we speak, this is the worst part ,the waiting for delivery(LOL).
If any one has any suggestions I would really appreciate their input, Dustin from Jetaddiction.com ,Pablo Fernandez and Rei Gonzalez, have been a great help,in choosing the equipment needed. thanks
J.C. Alvarez
This is the Scheme I chose
#335

My Feedback: (15)
I have the BVM large cylinders for the gear door modification. For thos tha thave doen this conversion, can you answer a question or two?
Does anyone know if the screw that goes into the door, through the ball link, goes into anything other than fiberglass/filler? I think there may be a part of an aluminum hinge in there that the threads capture?
I reworked the attachment point for the cyliders so they are not attached to the fuel tank - had to not use the bvm mount but it allows the cylinderes to be attached to the intakes and aft fuse bulkead and not hit the tank. Anyway, I have clearance of the tire by about maybe 3/8" full open with good solid closing. Is that enough?
The doors dont open to 90 degrees. I think I have enough clearance, just hoping air flow wouldnt take away much clearance.
Thanks
Dave
Does anyone know if the screw that goes into the door, through the ball link, goes into anything other than fiberglass/filler? I think there may be a part of an aluminum hinge in there that the threads capture?
I reworked the attachment point for the cyliders so they are not attached to the fuel tank - had to not use the bvm mount but it allows the cylinderes to be attached to the intakes and aft fuse bulkead and not hit the tank. Anyway, I have clearance of the tire by about maybe 3/8" full open with good solid closing. Is that enough?
The doors dont open to 90 degrees. I think I have enough clearance, just hoping air flow wouldnt take away much clearance.
Thanks
Dave
#336
Senior Member
@ j.c.a.
thats normal stuff. I think you can get it everywhere.
For example here:
[link=http://www.der-schweighofer.at/artikel/46271/modellsport?query=gabelkopf]i´m a link[/link]
thats normal stuff. I think you can get it everywhere.
For example here:
[link=http://www.der-schweighofer.at/artikel/46271/modellsport?query=gabelkopf]i´m a link[/link]
#337

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From: CORAL GABLES,
FL
ORIGINAL: Inconel
@ j.c.a.
thats normal stuff. I think you can get it everywhere.
For example here:
[link=http://www.der-schweighofer.at/artikel/46271/modellsport?query=gabelkopf]i´m a link[/link]
@ j.c.a.
thats normal stuff. I think you can get it everywhere.
For example here:
[link=http://www.der-schweighofer.at/artikel/46271/modellsport?query=gabelkopf]i´m a link[/link]
#338
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From: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
You might want to be careful with the stab position as the elevator mono block stab is not symmetrical!! Both the leading edges and the tailing edges are out from each side. Leading edge by about 4-5mm and the trailing edge by about 3mm from the other side! So expect to be trimming the ailerons depending on your airspeed. As well as the large gap between the gel coat/ fiberglass and the mounting former for the elevator axle blocks. Just a note of caution to all the non builders out there that just assemble and fly.
#339

My Feedback: (15)
I am making some progress on my Hawk. I got the main gear doors working with the BVm cylinders, trays mostly done, flaps hinged, elevator mounted....
I will be ready shortly to get the LG in for good. I am wondering what diameter I am lookng for on the main and nose gear for proper wheel pressure (not strut).?
ALso I am wondering if anyone has been able to use the Sullivan clevis on one end and the ball link on the other end for the rudder servo? It seems like it almost needs ball links at each end because of the angle.
Thank you
Dave
I will be ready shortly to get the LG in for good. I am wondering what diameter I am lookng for on the main and nose gear for proper wheel pressure (not strut).?
ALso I am wondering if anyone has been able to use the Sullivan clevis on one end and the ball link on the other end for the rudder servo? It seems like it almost needs ball links at each end because of the angle.
Thank you
Dave
#340

My Feedback: (15)
For those that built this already, could you give me some advice?
1. Did everyone have to cut the holes for aileron/flap leads in the wing? I also have to get to the wingtip for lights. I am assuming I will go through the ribs inboard/outboard of the servo boxes. Can I reach the wing tip this way or do I need to go fwd of the wood spar?
2. I have installed the BV gear door cylinders. One side is fine, the other side cannot deliver enough clearance and I have tried it 20 different ways already, it is too close for me to leave it this way, less than 3/16 clearance. So I am going to now see about a larger cylinder than supplied by SM but with >1.5" stroke. Anyone had success with a non BV replacement for these cylinders? I think I found a UP version..
3. I have sanded/cleared the aileron clearance and the force to get the aileron down is still quite a bit. Does everyone else have a load free deflection on aileron down? The first 0.5 " of travel is ok but the next .25 is with some resistance. I also have the BV manual and have done the usual clearance, including sanding the ridge on the upper skin of the aileron down too.
Thanks for any help,
Dave
1. Did everyone have to cut the holes for aileron/flap leads in the wing? I also have to get to the wingtip for lights. I am assuming I will go through the ribs inboard/outboard of the servo boxes. Can I reach the wing tip this way or do I need to go fwd of the wood spar?
2. I have installed the BV gear door cylinders. One side is fine, the other side cannot deliver enough clearance and I have tried it 20 different ways already, it is too close for me to leave it this way, less than 3/16 clearance. So I am going to now see about a larger cylinder than supplied by SM but with >1.5" stroke. Anyone had success with a non BV replacement for these cylinders? I think I found a UP version..
3. I have sanded/cleared the aileron clearance and the force to get the aileron down is still quite a bit. Does everyone else have a load free deflection on aileron down? The first 0.5 " of travel is ok but the next .25 is with some resistance. I also have the BV manual and have done the usual clearance, including sanding the ridge on the upper skin of the aileron down too.
Thanks for any help,
Dave
#341
Hi Dave
Yes, you have to drill a hole in the wing root to clear the air line and servo connections. I prefer floating connections to hard conncetions, ie, glued plugs and fuel lines.
I installed wing tip lights by routing the cable in the main spar. you will have acess, no problem.
Try to move the aileron manualy up and down arround 50 times to see if it gets easier. it usualy does. I am using the big bore cilinders from SM with sucess.
Also made some mods in the fuel tank to install it near the CG. Can post pics later on
Regards
nuno
Yes, you have to drill a hole in the wing root to clear the air line and servo connections. I prefer floating connections to hard conncetions, ie, glued plugs and fuel lines.
I installed wing tip lights by routing the cable in the main spar. you will have acess, no problem.
Try to move the aileron manualy up and down arround 50 times to see if it gets easier. it usualy does. I am using the big bore cilinders from SM with sucess.
Also made some mods in the fuel tank to install it near the CG. Can post pics later on
Regards
nuno
#342

My Feedback: (15)
Thanks Nuno,
I just installed some UP 2" stroke cylinders and now the doors open and close well. Unfortunately I have extra (2) BVM cylinders that I am not able to use and bought specifically for this purpose as an add on. The fuel tank fits in between but it sure would be nice if it could fit lower and near the/under the bypass. I may rotate the tank.
Regarding the struts. Did you mean that you replaced the lower "seal" or the Oring on the piston? The seals are not "O" shape. I wasn't sure which parts you replaced? Likai sent me a few replacement "seals" I believe. I wish I had a schematic for the struts.
Will keep plugging along. Will have some pictures to go with the build shortly.
Dave
I just installed some UP 2" stroke cylinders and now the doors open and close well. Unfortunately I have extra (2) BVM cylinders that I am not able to use and bought specifically for this purpose as an add on. The fuel tank fits in between but it sure would be nice if it could fit lower and near the/under the bypass. I may rotate the tank.
Regarding the struts. Did you mean that you replaced the lower "seal" or the Oring on the piston? The seals are not "O" shape. I wasn't sure which parts you replaced? Likai sent me a few replacement "seals" I believe. I wish I had a schematic for the struts.
Will keep plugging along. Will have some pictures to go with the build shortly.
Dave
#343
Hi Dave
I cut off the intake and put the fuel tank near the CG. Will post pics tomorrow if you want.
If you lay down the fuel tank under the bypass, the wheels will hit it. Not possible.....
Regards
Nuno
I cut off the intake and put the fuel tank near the CG. Will post pics tomorrow if you want.
If you lay down the fuel tank under the bypass, the wheels will hit it. Not possible.....
Regards
Nuno
#345
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From: Methven, NEW ZEALAND
Hey guys. After a few years of comfortably throwing my Boomerang Sprint round the sky I decided it was time to go for a scale jet so I went ahead and ordered the large hawk and will be my project over the winter. Its going to be in the 2010 scheme with a Jetcat P-140RX for power and DX18 for guidance. I've read through this thread already and probably will do again for any tips like CG location and elevator position and also if anyone has any suggestions i'd be grateful as this is my first Skymaster jet.<div>
</div><div>Regards</div><div>George</div>
</div><div>Regards</div><div>George</div>
#346
Hi
I have just maiden my Hawk after the mods. Dave, sorry but forget to take pics in the inside. next time I went over it, I will shoot a couple.... much smother now
The re-maiden at 3.00min
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBBPU...Ti6usg&index=2
Regards
Nuno
I have just maiden my Hawk after the mods. Dave, sorry but forget to take pics in the inside. next time I went over it, I will shoot a couple.... much smother now
The re-maiden at 3.00min
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBBPU...Ti6usg&index=2
Regards
Nuno
#349
Hi Dave
here are some pics about the mod I made. The CG at 215mm still a bit forward, but drop landing had to do with blanked elevator at full flaps- too much exponencial. I used the same expo settings as in the F18 and proved wrong
I plan to move the CG a bit more in the rear at 220mm, maybe even at 230mm. When rolled inverted in other flight (gear retracted), the plane pitched down when inverted, so I guess 225-230mm will be fine. This is a long way from the original 190mm recommended by the manufacturer. No pitch change during flight as "fuel goes by" with tank install near CG. Downside is that main gear doors open because fuse pressure is higher without intake. I have already ordered the BIG Robart cylinders for the job[8D]
Regards
Nuno
here are some pics about the mod I made. The CG at 215mm still a bit forward, but drop landing had to do with blanked elevator at full flaps- too much exponencial. I used the same expo settings as in the F18 and proved wrong

I plan to move the CG a bit more in the rear at 220mm, maybe even at 230mm. When rolled inverted in other flight (gear retracted), the plane pitched down when inverted, so I guess 225-230mm will be fine. This is a long way from the original 190mm recommended by the manufacturer. No pitch change during flight as "fuel goes by" with tank install near CG. Downside is that main gear doors open because fuse pressure is higher without intake. I have already ordered the BIG Robart cylinders for the job[8D]
Regards
Nuno
#350

My Feedback: (15)
Thanks for sharing.
I turned my tank 90 degrees so that I could get the door cylinder to work (U.P. 2 inch stroke) and to continue to use the inlets.
I will have to take some pictures..
Did you use the recommend flaps from the SM manual or per Jack Diaz? I am thinking closer to what Jack suggested for my first outing on Final.
Good luck with it!
Dave
I turned my tank 90 degrees so that I could get the door cylinder to work (U.P. 2 inch stroke) and to continue to use the inlets.
I will have to take some pictures..
Did you use the recommend flaps from the SM manual or per Jack Diaz? I am thinking closer to what Jack suggested for my first outing on Final.
Good luck with it!
Dave


