Sir Chopps

Sorry guys, I thought that it was a 3 shoe clutch, but it is only a 2. But it still works great!
HPI part # 87050 Teflon Clutch Shoe Spring Set (2pcs/ea)
To run the 3 shoe clutch($8) off of the saveage you must first replace the flywheel($8) also.
Don't have a part # on the carb. But it is off of a ready to run saveage 25 motor.

Glad to give out the info I'll let you guys know more as I go!!



Choppy

jbrad65

Whats up guys? I just got through with an engine swap on my Warhead. I went with the OS .30vg. It is just getting it broke in, but this motor rips this truck like an 10th scale buggy. I had to do some creative bearing work to make the clutch bell and flywheel work. I would recommend that everyone switch to an different motor. I want to go with a 3 clutch system but I need to change the flywheel to make it work. Anyone know which flywheel would work?

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

MHO just go for an Ofna 1/8 buggy setup, with the 3 shoe flywheel, aluminum shoes and 1.1mm springs. might also want to get a hardened clutchbell, too, to deal with the aluminum shoes.

Bill Plude

I didn't get this truck to do engine swaps and stuff like that. I'm sure I might have to somewhere down the line but right now I'd like to have it stay stock. Just today I put an OS 18 in my REVO, why? because it needed it, the 2.5R was about worn out. I'm not about to spend 2 or 3 hundred bucks on an engine to replace a brand new one on a truck I bought because of the inexpensive price. I want the WarHead (maybe 2) so my friends and my sons friends can beat on it and not need to worry about them wrecking it. I do expect it to be competitive though and I want them to enjoy themselves. I wonder what DT is going to do about being out of the steering parts. Bet the people that are doing the molding are getting some crap about it. I was in plastics many years ago and I'd guess its the plastic they're using. Now that they're out would be a good time to change whats wrong

sarroopoo

Hey, i was running my new warhead today and have a couple of questions, when shutting off by pinching the gas line it revved up for about 10 seconds then died, so i leaned the lsn, now it sits for about 5 seconds, then revs for about 5 seconds, then dies. Is this normal during break in? or should I lean the lsn some more? also is it normal to have to let the motor warm up for a minute or so before you can accelerate? otherwise it dies. And one final question, I parked it to go to work, when I got home it was flooded, and no one was around to mess with it. does this simply mean i have to lower the idle speed? if so, is there a way to do it without seriously disassembling the truck?

Thanks in advance.

mikerc

My Feedback: (11)

I refuse to put a new engine in a new truck I just baught. I WILL make it work, and work good. I fixed my pull starter and will pick up a new e-clip tomorrow with the clutch parts. I should be rolling again tomorrow evening.

josh_r

Just want to say that i got a brand new Warhead a few days ago, i havent really had any problems with it except the leaking problem around the glow plug, but i easily fixed it by taking the washer out. other than that it reuns great except for some bent screws that hold the shocks on ( from landing ) but i think that was partly because i had it jacked up higher than it was "supposed" to go (4inches). and i noticed the spur gear was scraping something inside the body which had left tiny plastic or graphite shavings everywhere. oh yeah and my recoil starter accidently broke because my friend pulled it too far. cant wait till this weekend, i bought $80 worth of portable jumps and nitro fuel so my friends and i can race.

Josh

Bill Plude

I was just checking Tower Hobbies for the steering servo saver parts....oh oh "mid Jan" seems they're out of them too guys. I have one package in my little workshop and am going to see if my RC shop has another in stock. I'm going to try what mikerc did to his broken part but I'm going to do it to a brand new part. Figure why try not beefing it up first? In fact I think I'll bring this subject up with the expert my RC store guy. If he knows how to strengthen parts for planes and helicopters he might have some ideas for this too. I definitely think mikerc has the right idea though.....

Wide Open

its quoted as a "racing engine" guys, and i think mikes got the right idea. give the engine about a gallon (like what i did) and then youll see a definate boost in reliability and performance.

mikerc

My Feedback: (11)

I have 4 steering bags coming from Tower. (Guess I got the last of them.) I am going to do the same thing to a new one. Pour JB-weld into the open area. Then wrap it with kevlar, then JB-weld over that. I have a ton of kevlar left over from my airplanes. It is rated at 100lbs. When I get back from the LHS (hopefully they will have all of the parts I need) I will tighten up the steering a little bit and see how it works.

I can't believe the front bearing is still in tack from the the e- clip missing on the clutch bell. The only thing that was holding the clutch bell on was the spur gear. No damage to anything.

Josh r,
Your clutch is burning up. That is what the flakes are. Your idle it too high.

ashburg

Well, I'm ditching the stock clutch guys...why go through clutches when you can do this:

Aluminum Shoes: Mugen #C0754 and you can get them here: http://www.smfstore.com/product_info...roducts_id=117

1.1 mm Springs: Mugen#C0753 and you can get them here: http://www.smfstore.com/product_info...roducts_id=228

"Be sure to get a good-quality clutch bell, too. The OFNA hardened clutch bells are good and come with bearings, but the regular and heavy-duty HPI bells don't last all that long. The "race" versions of the HPI bells are hardened and vented, however, and reportedly last a while"...here's where I'm getting my hardened OFNA Clutchbell: http://www.smfstore.com/index.php?cP...a&filter_id=16

I guess I'm going to use the stock flywheel...still researching that

I'm slapping all this hi-end clutch stuff onto an OS .30 motor: http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=596

ash

mojoseeka

hey guys just broke all the parts you guys have broke.....servo saver,bulkhead havent checked my clutch shoes yet nor have i ordered any. got through 3 tanks before broke bulkhead. i did what Mikerc did with the jb weld works great!but instead of kevlar thread i used craft wire i found at walmart in the craft dept. its .26 gauge very small and manageable i filled the valley in the back of the arm of the servo saver with small chuncks of this wire(using it like rebar in concrete) then filling it up with jb weld and then the rest of the way around it...then while the JB weld is still wet wrap the wire tight around the arm about 4 wraps then again with the JB weld finished....looks like a solution for now.I will have to look into these savcage clucth shoes or should i try to go with new flywheel and a 3 shoe clutch.I cant complain about the engine it seems to be very good with temps...goood power....sounds good to the ear but just cant keep it running with these broken plastic parts.....i dont mine having alot of plastic parts on my truck if there TOUGH parts but that dont seem like its the case....SOMEBODY OUT THERE IS MILLING OUT A SERVO SAVER OUT OF ALUMINIUM AS WE SPEAK!!! and some bulkheads tooGreat thred guys!!

alvinl

Theres a gentleman on RCU that goes by 'Dr Honda'. I have bought CNC parts from him recently. If enough people are interested, he might make them for you. He has his own CNC equipment and does it on the side. He is also into RC and posts a lot in the Traxxas forum.

Edit - Not sure you guys are serious or not about looking into CNC parts, but here is a link to Dr Honda's userpage if you are serious about it. http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/...1&memid=170219

Wide Open

i think ill just wait until the hop ups start to roll out, but in the meantime a new clutch wouldnt be bad.

mikerc

My Feedback: (11)

Tonight a little more fun with the warthead. I picked up an e-clip and washer for the clutch bell. Reinstalled motor. Went out to start and second pull I pulled the string off of the handle end. I about lost it in the driveway. I took it in. 8 minutes later I had it fixed. Back outside for some fun. Ran around for a while with the tighter steering and my JB-weld fix is still holding up well. I jumped the side of the driveway and flipped it on it's back. (didn't have the body on) Broke the rear shock tower. I tie wrapped it to the body mount and kept driving. Then all of the sudden the front left tire was not driving. Sheared the differential drive joint and cv dogbone. Well I will have to make it 2 wheel drive till I get parts.

All I can say is. Holy crap I am having fun with this thing. Everytime I take it out something breaks. I should just stick to airplanes.

spacoli

I am very much interested in a clutch also. I know some suggestions have been posted. I'm not sure if they have been tested and worked out. So everyone keep us posted on the clutch and what does end up fitting and working out.

What do you have to look for to know if the flywheel, clutch and bell will work on the engine?
Any shaft measurements or something like that? Not sure how that goes all together? Does the flywheel collet pinch down on the shaft? Are these a standard size or something like that?

thanks

Sir Chopps

I was just getting my truck ready to run for tomorrow morning and noticed a new problem. Right where the axles connect with the differential there is a weakness. The pins that go through the axles must be made out of a very soft metal because mine are almost worn all the way through. It is especally bad on the right rear, that must be where most of the torque is. I think that I may be able to get another run out of it before it breaks off. I'll let you all know if I can find some type of better meterial to replace it with.


Choppy

mikerc

My Feedback: (11)

Attached are a couple of photos of my CV dogbones off of the front. I am sure the rearend is worse. (except for the broken one)

Wide Open

ha! so everyone is wearing out their axles in the exact same spot as me. please contact duratrax so they can get the problem fixed, cause im going CRAZY not being able to drive this thing! oh well, duratrax has two or three major spots to iron out and it should be awsome.

ashburg

I know this is on another thread...just wanted to make my fellow warhead fanatics aware:

...after some drilling down of exactly what would work best, I have put together the following:

OS .30 Motor - Got on eBay at (what I think is) a considerable discount...maybe he's got more...here's the closed auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN%3AIT&rd=1 . Here's a good installation guide for that motor: http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=596

Upgrading the clutch so'z I can yank the front wheels off the ground through 1st gear hehe:

- OFNA 16 Tooth (reducing from the stock 17) Hardened ClutchBell: http://www.smfstore.com/product_info...roducts_id=120

- OFNA ClutchBell Shim Kit (just in case): http://www.smfstore.com/product_info...roducts_id=383

- Mugen Aluminum Clutch Shoes (going from 2 shoes to 3): http://www.smfstore.com/product_info...roducts_id=117

- Mugen 1.1mm Clutch Springs (or 1.0): http://www.smfstore.com/index.php?cPath=32_61

- OFNA Clutch Nut SG Shaft: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHMG0&P=7

- OFNA SG Shaft Flywheel Taper: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDSW4&P=7

- Dubro Translucent Blue Fuel Tubing: www.dubro.com

I reckon' that'll git 'er done for the time being...until I strip the transmission from all the torque hehe. Hopefully by the time I get this together, some more billet products will be on the market

ash
www.ashburg.com

Bill Plude

OK. OS .30 motor and extras, how about tires and wheels(the stock ones are really bad)? Any other improvements in the near future? How much have you got into this $400 truck so far? What do you plan on using it for?

I'm thinking if dogbones are wearing out with stock Horsepower, what's going to happen when you put the heavy horses to them? How about the rest of the drive train? I'm just going to leave mine stock and fix what breaks. I'll put money into my other trucks for now. Maybe do upgrades to the WarHead when some better parts come out for it. No point in giving it more power when the rest of the truck can't handle it.

ashburg

...all of the aforementioned parts are useable on a number of trucks, truggies, and 1/8 buggies (oh my [X(] hehe). SO, if I find that I'm breaking dogbones and all the other vanilla parts on this thing (carb, servo saver, clutch), I'm going to first look for billet replacements...OR, get with any number of machinists who can create whatever I need.

We've already solved the servo saver problem with teflon and JB Weld (compliments of mikerc).

What I plan on doing with it is burning all 4 tires off of it, catwalks, showing off on the low end, etc...not planning on racing it to win a race (because that would be too hard to do hehe). This is purely an exhibition project [8D]

Also...I bought the Warhead wanting something unique that I could work with and I'm determined to make it out-do the savage ss and the rEVo. I believe in the Duratrax Warhead!

good point, though...the heavy horses WILL break something...but to me, that's half the fun.

I've got approximately $850 in it as of today, but that includes some spare parts and such...

ash

mikerc

My Feedback: (11)

You guys need to let Duratrax know about he broken parts. They are taking care of me. I am happy.

FE_Chris

My Feedback: (2)

I'd like to here how exactly they are taking care of you. They basicly told me that losi and traxxas build a better truck. and they offered me no assistance.

ashburg

That's what I'm screamin'....no support means we're on our own. I've gotten sketchy support...sometimes it's excellent, sometimes I get no response. Losi and Traxxis may build a better truck out of the box, but I believe we've got a good base model in the Warhead (and still not bad out of the box).