J_ME65

Kinda nice seein a few older names at the top every once in a while, isn't it?

ashburg

I'd like to know too...has anyone BOILED their plastic parts yet with any success? How long do you boil them - I know it's on the duratrax site, but I wanted to know from an actual user.

turtok187

this is nothing compared to the things I had with my first Savage, or my friends had with their t-maxx or Revo, or LST!

I'm still "PRO" Duratrax and happy with my Warhead! At least they do something! I'm right?

just my 2 cents about all those whiners ..

regards from switzerland!

J_ME65

That right there is the kind of crap that's getting the older "anybody own a warhead" people to quit coming and posting anything. A few people have been in the warhead for a couple months and are getting tired of EVERYTIME you get the truck off the shelf something breaks. You say something about it and next thing you know here's a new person stepping in that probly doesn't even have their truck broke in yet b****in about whiners. It's ridiculous.

Mekong

So I finaly got back my parts today!

Now I need to remember which screw went where! The engine they sent back was obviously refurbished, the fly wheel was all dinged up like someone was using a starter box, and there is no glow plug! I sent mine out with a glowplug!

So before I start this thing up, what should I do to the engine to make sure it doesnt leak and how can I test it. I really dont want another occurance of last time (see my post above)

Bill Plude

A comment from an old guy....tyvm J_ME65 Now I'll go back into hibernation

dpc1234

Ok, today I was ripping my warhead up and down the street and it took off without me. The weird thing....I HAVE a failsafe but it didnt actuate the servo(brake). Lukily it wasn't at full throttle and I could catch it(barely). I had to step on the wheel to stop it while I was running at my full speed. Anyways, back to the point. ***.........What would cause this. I turned it off and then back on and it was ok. Moved everything around and had full control. I fired it up and bam, the servo went full throttle and the warhead almost took out my 3yr old across the driveway. It also seems the voltage reading is fluctuating bad? any ideas?!?!?!?!?. I am afraid to drive it now.

quickster47

I would check your receiver batteries. When their voltage drops, strange things can happen within the receiver and cause all kinds of weirdness.

MotorPsyko

Just out of curiosity which failsafe do you have and are you using rechargable batteries or alkalines?

lukskywalker

Ok,

Im sure this will be asked a half of dozens times again after I post this. But I just ran my HPI Carb in my kids truck and it runs a whole lot better then the stock crap. The idle needle is stronger metal and the high speed needle is thicker then the thin stock DT Carb needle.

Also incase anyone is waiting for a idle needle for there stock Dt Carb. Yes-you can use the HPI IdleNeedle for the stock Dt Carb. There demensions are the same.

Im sure for all of the new guys in the forum, your probably wondering what Im talking about. I will show it the carb I am talking about so theres no question about which carb.

Till then, back to hibranation....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...8&I=LXFRE3&P=K

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...8&I=LXFRE8&P=K

quickster47

Okay, I have now run a gallon of fuel through mine and am yet to break a servo saver or bulkhead. Took it out to the BIG field today and did some jumps on a rock pile and just plain ran the heck out of it all over the field. Was getting a foot or so of air on the jumps and nothing broke. I am not a timid driver and have been pushing it more and more and it just keeps on ticking and taking it. But then again, disaster could be hiding its' ugly head and waiting just around the next u-turn.

Of course, there are lots of way to look at production runs. The majority of pieces will come off a production run in the norm. Some will come of the line as lemons and then some will come off as real screamers. It is all in the mix of the parts and the bell curve. I personally think I got one of the screamers because of the few problems I have had.

Anyway, this thing is really coming into its' own and I must say, I love the WarHead.

dpc1234

lukskywalker,
Glad to hear you got the carb. It does make owning this truck a whole lot better. I am at the point where I beleive the truck would have been better in kit form not RtR. The truck is good but the radio and motor leave alot to be desired. Anyways, I like my carb still as well but now I am on the hunt for more torque after I get the latest problem solved.

MotorPsyko,
I am running regular Alka batts but they are new. The failsafe is a Venom Smart temp. No problems with it till now.

quickster47,
I am going to check each batt individually now. The failsafe keeps fluctuating on its voltage reading between 3.9 and 5. It is odd.

dpc1234

On Another note, Anybody know about the Axial .32 motor. A store on ebay has 5 left at 139.99 + shipping. it is 8 port and Axials website says it has a 2 yr limited warranty.

MotorPsyko

Maybe it's having issues with the alkalines themselves? I know some fail safe models explicitly state to not use alkalines... I looked up the smart temp but it didn't say anything about not using alkalines but it might be something to consider... maybe send an email to venom about it.

Bill Plude

Don't waste your time testing the batteries, you have to replace ALL of them with fresh ones. Please consider getting a rechargable hump pack.

J_ME65

Most failsafes will not run with alk, as stated allready. If you were able to catch it, it may have been somewhat working, but your idle is a little high and that's why it kept going. When you shut it off and back on it may have just had "one last surge" from the batteries and that was it. As also allready stated, get a 5 cell rechargeable pack in there and it should fix it (hopefully) and double check your idle position to make sure when it's running it will stay still without you holding the brake. If nothing else next time it may take off slower and be easier to catch.LOL

Mekong

Failsafes wont run with alk? I am using alk batteries and everytime I test my venom fail safe it works perfect...

Bill Plude

Here we go......... He said Most. Venom is an exceptionally good fail safe. The best IMO, but then again my opinion doesn't mean S&%$ to some because I whine and cry too much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Excuse me if I seem to be on the Defensive, it's a shame but it seems it's the way one has to be here.

wave waker

anybody did a safety return spring for the throttle?

J_ME65

MOST failsafes won't work properly with alkaline batteries. With each rechargeable cell in say a 1200 5 cell pack, each battery is rated at 1200 mah. In standard AA batteries the average mah per battery is right around 750 - 800 mah. When you use normal batteries they are 1.5 volts where rechargeable are 1.2. Thats why it takes 5 rechargeable to make the same volts as 4 regular. With the mah though, it does not make up the difference so you don't have as powerful batteries for near as long. That's why they recommend the hump packs as an aftermarket item and why they say most failsafes will work better with the hump packs.

MCline

Got my HPI S-25 Carb today and just measured everything to the stock Super Tiger replacement carb I got from DTX They are exactly the same, the slide and idle speed screw are the same. Checked everything with my dial calipers and the parts are completly interchangable. I do not know if this is the same as the original as it is on the truck. Thought I would post a few pics. for everyone to see.

spacoli

Hey guys thought I thought I would fill you in on my new engine break in today.
Heat cycled my engine today it went well. I did 8 cycles.
Does anyone know how many cycles need done?

This might be a little long but, I beleive it will help the new guys and the guys that are getting new engine from DT.

Temps outside where around 32, so keeping the engine up to temp ( minimum 200) was a must. I heated up the head to 140 to releive the pinch before starting, put a cut sock around it till it reached 200 then run it for 2-3 min. I didn't time it I just guessed. I filled the tank to 3/4 before each run to keep adjustments I made after each cycle consistant. After each run I left it cool to 75-80 before heating it up again to run it.

I did smooth steady throttle, from slow speed to WOT for 1-2 seconds. WOT times got longer as the cycling progressed.

Cycle #1 leaned the HSN 1/4 from the factory setting because I know it comes rich. did 4 stroke but temps were up wher they belonged so a little extra oil won't hurt it actually helps. temps 210-230

Cycle #2 leaned HSN 1/8 still 4 stroking at lower speeds but 2 stroke at higher, smoke good. Temps 200-225. idle was a little high.

Cycle #3 leaned HSN 1/12, temps 195- 215, the 195 was at the end of the run. did end up richening the LSN to get my pinch test right.

Cycle #4 leaned HSN 1/12, temps 205-215, still a little rich

Cycle #5 leaned HSN 1/12. temps 220 steady, good smoke, idle is creeping up.

Cycle #6 lowered idle, lean HSN 1/12, temps a little higher 230-235, engine is showing signs of power, good smoke, idle still high

Cycle #7 lowered idle, changed nothing else, temps 225-238

Cycle #8 lowered idle, changed nothing at this time, run this time with 1/2 tank to see if it was going to lean itself out, it did, temp got higher as tank drained to 1/4. temps 225-240 still good though, I had to richen up the LSN, as I started to punch it from a stand still on this run, it was starving for fuel, this inturned lowered my idle, so I had to up the idle a little, pinch test was good. I should have richen the LSN up earlier, this would have dropped my creeping idle down as the engine progress to be broke in.

Let me say when I broke in my original engine I was green. I tried to heat cycle it the best I could. I know now it was far from good, keep reading.

Once I was done (dark outside), I took it in the garage for the once over. I pulled the plug and I put some after run oil in the carb and head. Then I spun the flywheel to check the pinch, wow, it had a strong pinch at TDC, just like it should. I know it may not be fully broke in yet, but so far the results seem promising. My last engine I could barely feel the pinch at all. I beleive this engine is going to be better then the old. My rookie break in on the first engine is probably to blame for that.

danny f norman

hey spac
i have a paper here i found from a website about heat cycling according to what you said you did it right. it says to "run 2-3in. intervals and dont be scared to to adjust settings to keep temp above 200. cycle this way for 15 min of ttl run time. then go to 3-5 min intervals until a total of 25 min run time is achieved. it says you'll have better performance and longer life on the motor." thats the way i'm doing it if they send me a refurbed motor back

doesgo

That's the break-in method the "legendary" Stephen Bess made famous (the Bess Heat-Cycle Method) and the one many (most?) racers use for their high-buck, high-performance, long-lasting engines. I hightly recommend it!

spacoli

Well I'm probably about done then. I will take it easy the next couple runs though to be safe.