what's up?
i was debating fabricating something, but the rc10gt arm online looks so similar. the local shops have all the parts for those trucks, so i'll check it out. i can't wait for the evader to pick up in popularity amognst the local shops... then again, i also enjoy being one of the fastest with little to no mods

Nothin much going on here, man. The N-Evader's gone due to string of bad luck, and I just can't afford it anymore, so I hopped on the smale scale bandwagon with an AE RC18MT. I still like talkin to you guys, though...

Glad to see you're having fun. Support for R/C around her has dwindled in the past couple years...[]

I used the spacer in between the bearings and the wheel still won't turn. I think somehow the wheel is a tiny bit different in size than the evader wheels. It's a shame because I think the rpm rims look really nice but I don;t think they'll see much action on my truck since I can't tighten them down.

just undo the nut a little until it spins freely, i have the same problem with my proline rims, you can't do them up too tight. if you do them up so they are snug & the nylon has caught the thread they won't come undone & will still spin freely.

XDD check out this site

http://www.e-maxximumrc.com/html/rc18t.html

some good hints for your AE 18T. especially the one to do with the outdrives & the suspension spring retainers. i also use the rear springs on the front cause the front springs are too short. gold springs with 20W oil.

me and my buddy (has an rc10gt), heard there where some guys who run at the beach. we finally where there at the same time.. had like 15 trucks going at once. awesome. they said they where in the process of getting a permit to change the paved track te city buiult for us, into dirt!! ofcourse i threw myself onboard for helping.
the hobby is growing here unbelieveably. not even just R/C, but nitro r/c. evryone asked, "where did you buy that?". "where can i get 1?"
spectators just stop to watch you for like an hour.. especially when they see the smaller 1/10 pulling away bad from those t/maxxs'. 1 guy had a 1/5 scale VW dune buggy..talk about exspensive.

Sounds awesome, fga.

Thanks for the site dicko, lol, but through my intense research, I found that one. It is REALLY helpful and cleared up the unknowns that made me original a bit scared to buy the little thing. I'll be gone all this week, so I'm hoping it will be waiting for me when I get back.

hey guys, which OS .12 and .15 engines bolt directly into the evader? I'm going to try one or the other, I like the .18 CVRX, but want to tone it down a bit, which do you recommend and why?

the os cv-rx is a direct bolt in, get the normal crank shaft one, not the shortened crank. if you don't want a pullstart get the cv-r engine (the X indicates pullstart), if you get the slide carb version you will need to turn you throttle servo around 180 degrees & check out the link on the associated website on how to set it up for a slide carb (the rc10gt setup for slide carbs works for the evader)

Have fast have you guys got your evaders up to? I'm hoping to get a radar gun soon so I can clock mine. I know it's fast as hell with the stock motor. My gearing right now is an 18t pinion 56 spur. I got a custom 20t pinion in the mail now. I can't wait to receive it. How easy is it to rebuild the motor? I want to rebuild mine and then send it in to tntmods.com to have them do their magic to it. They claim twice as long run times on a tank of fuel compared to a stock engine and when fuel is about 11 euro a liter here in germany, I'll take all the fuel mileage I can get. If anyone has done business with tntmods.com please let me know.

Also a little off the topic but I know most of you probably own more than 1 rc truck besides your evader but I would love to get my son a monster truck for bashing. Any recommendations? I was looking at the monster gt and tamiya tnx. I would like to stay away from HPI Savage and anything Traxxas due to everyone having one. I don't like to be part of the bandwagon. The reason I'm asking you guys is who better to ask than my fellow evader bashers who know bashing like no others?

Delasueno,

Rebuilding the engine is a piece of cake, just take your time and remember how everything came out. If you don't pay attention, like I didn't on my first engine rebuild, you can install the piston 180 degrees out of rotation. It the slots in the piston have to line up correctly with the exhaust port and fuel slot in the block. You have to pay close attention to the exploded parts diagram. The connecting rod connection to the crank shaft is tricky to get in and out, but if you install the piston/piston pin/connecting rod to the crank shaft and then install the piston liner last, it is much easier.

I have no idea how fast my Evader is, somewhere in the 40mph range. I haven't done business with tntmods but am interested in checking them out.

I would like to get a Monster truck for my son as well, but haven't figured out which one to get yet. Go to this link as it is a comparison of just about every Monster on the market... [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2908712/tm.htm]Monster Truck Comparison Chart[/link] (Just don't ask the guy that posted it any questions, see what happened when someone tried) (Read through the thread)

I have looked at the Traxxas Revo and T-Maxx just because it would be easy to get parts..... Let us know what you decide on.

Darth

I picked up my T-maxx just because the availability of parts. You can fight the bandwagon, but it may bite you when you go buy something exotic and break something that takes days to get parts for. And I have been digging the t-maxx a lot, make a great backyard basher for me..

ya, my dad drives a t-maxx and its probably the most durable truck ive driven

its also very easy 2 get parts for (hop-ups or replacement factory parts)

i also like that it has reverse

i say its the best 4 the price

but if u dont want one of them i'd get a monster gt or a mammoth or sumthin like that.

i'd stay away from dual motors also they seem to be a bit too much to maintain

also, im lookin for a good new body for my evader. Any suggestions on what might fit?

one more question, has anyone tried the supercharger 4 the evader at rbinnovations.com? if so r they ne good?

what about the duratrax quick pit super start elec. starter? if so is it good?

I haven't bought one yet, but the Atomik bodies look sweet. The hood scoop, top vent, and side vents look wicked. Go back a few pages in this forum and you'll find a posted picture of one mounted on an Evader.

I haven't tried the supercharger, nor have I seen a post regarding one in this thread. I picked up a Duratrax starter box and it works great, although it is a little finicky as the hole in the chassis where it makes connection with the flywheel seems to be a bit small. Once it contacts the flywheel though it cranks right up.

i have one in my gallery, take a look

In RC cars, the bandwagon is a good thing. When you break something your lhs will be more likely to stock it, rather than you having to wait for an order to come in.
You also have a greater pool of common problem knowledge. "oh ya, mine did that too, just do this..." kind of thing.

Don't avoid the popular trucks, they are popular for a reason, and their popularity is an advantage. If you want to stand out, get an airbrush and start painting custom bodies.

imho of course.

Doogie, how did you situate the Atomik body to mount the rear body posts? I have looked in pictures and it appears that the body is molded to accomodate the shock towers but the body posts are too far apart. I have looked at the NEST that is for sale on this forum and it appears to only have one hole to hold the body? Here is the link to the guy's classified [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=103711[/link] If you look to the bottom of this page, he has an Atomik body and it appears that he only has one body post hole on the rear of the truck. Just curious before I buy the Atomik body.

Thanks, Darth

As a matter of fact I think I might be buying two Atomik bodies... I found two on eBay, and I think I have been tricked into thinking that I was bidding against someone. The seller actually is selling these two bodies for $29 each on their website. I bid up to a maximum of $20, but adding the $10 flat shipping rate, I have a feeling that I am going to be the high bidder. Has anyone else had a similar experience with eBay, where someone will post something to sell, and then create the false illusion that someone else has submitted a higher bid maximum using a ghost sign in, knowing very well that they are not going to buy the item?

I found this statement on the eBay rules... Reminder: Even if you don't bid again, you could still end up as the winning bidder if higher bids are retracted or canceled. Continue to check the status of this item until it ends.


Hmmmm, good thing I stopped upping my bid at $20 bucks.

DW

Delasueno, I would really like to hear from an independent what their thoughts are on TNTMods.com. I checked out their site, and everything makes sense, and it appears that if you don't blow your engine up, you will cut your nitro consumption in half. Somebody try them out and let us know....

Hey Darth,
As far as getting a monster truck goes, I've done some research and narrowed it down to either the Kyosho mad force, Tamiya TNX, or MGT. The new duratrax looks nice but who know when that will come out. The TNX from ultimatehobbies.com is $309 with free shipping, however I heard you need to buy mip cvds since the axles always break and thats another $50 plus there's not very much aftermarket support. The Kyosho looks good with solid axles, no a-arms to snap off plus it's a great wheelie machine, The MGT looks pretty awesome with a huge aftermarket support but it's slower thant the other two and can't do wheelies. Any thoughts on these? It's so hard deciding on one that maybe I'll have to win the lottery and buy them all. I'll keep doing some research on tntmods.com. I sent them an email asking some questions. They responded back right away and appear to have awesome customer service. I'm thinking about buying an os 18 cvr for my evader and having them do their magic. More to come.

I don't have any experience with any of these although I have seen them on the Web. The Duratrax does look nice, but late August availability as per Tower is a bummer. I didn't know what you were talking about on the Kyosho until I studied it a bit, the straight axles do look tough, but I wonder how they are for maintaining after a trip to the sand pit or mud hole? TNX or MGT, no idea.

My LHS has the Savage and T-Maxx in stock, so I have had a chance to put my hands on them. Tearing into the transmission on one of those bad boys looks like a month long job. I would like to know what you end up getting and your recommendation.

Darth