Official HPI MT2 Thread
04-09-2006 | 11:03 PM
#5776
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From: TokyoTokyo, JAPAN
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
This will be my last response on this matter as its fruitless... - literally!
I will not reply to any posts from this angle from you as its interrogative.
Well thats nice...but he wanted to know about motor mounts not shims...
Shims are different from motor mounts
...or let me put it in another way, shims are NOT [X(]motor mounts. Now if you had followed the thread my friend you would know that he was asking about MOTOR mounts not shims - im repeating myself here. Now if it comes with shims or motor mounts so be it but his question was simply that and I would effort a guess that he would need such info in regards to motor mounts. And his question was already answered PLEASE...lets not ruin the forum by squabling over stupid inaccuracies.
If you dissagree as I said before, so be it! If you would like me to shop you some info as to engine packages and whats inside allow me to do so...I would be MORE than happy to enlighten you. And BTW, I do know what shims are my friend I am a designer and have been for 14years, so please lay off the sarcasm as I think there was 1 guy on here just recently who just killed the forum with idiocies and vulgarities aswell as just plain inaccuracies - and he was not refering to my spelling either.
BTW, you still have not posted your super fast set-up on your MT2 yet. I would like to know as I want that speed, and I mean this sincerely no willie competition invloved here OK...thanks
Also, I am not trying to have the last word here either, if it seems like that then I am sorry.
I will not reply to any posts from this angle from you as its interrogative.Well thats nice...but he wanted to know about motor mounts not shims...
Shims are different from motor mounts
...or let me put it in another way, shims are NOT [X(]motor mounts. Now if you had followed the thread my friend you would know that he was asking about MOTOR mounts not shims - im repeating myself here. Now if it comes with shims or motor mounts so be it but his question was simply that and I would effort a guess that he would need such info in regards to motor mounts. And his question was already answered PLEASE...lets not ruin the forum by squabling over stupid inaccuracies.If you dissagree as I said before, so be it! If you would like me to shop you some info as to engine packages and whats inside allow me to do so...I would be MORE than happy to enlighten you. And BTW, I do know what shims are my friend I am a designer and have been for 14years, so please lay off the sarcasm as I think there was 1 guy on here just recently who just killed the forum with idiocies and vulgarities aswell as just plain inaccuracies - and he was not refering to my spelling either.
BTW, you still have not posted your super fast set-up on your MT2 yet. I would like to know as I want that speed, and I mean this sincerely no willie competition invloved here OK...thanks
Also, I am not trying to have the last word here either, if it seems like that then I am sorry.
ORIGINAL: laserman2
simienastro well the motors that i just got both came with shims not motor mounts if you follow the thread i said that. and it may be different where you get motors just that here we get shims with the motors so the motor will be mounted properly
simienastro well the motors that i just got both came with shims not motor mounts if you follow the thread i said that. and it may be different where you get motors just that here we get shims with the motors so the motor will be mounted properly
04-10-2006 | 04:34 AM
#5777
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From: Jindabyne, AUSTRALIA
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
Hey all, i was wondering if the Team Infinity .30 RS is a good engine, would it fit into the mt2 if i got the right mounts?
Heres the specs
• Horsepower: Not rated
• RPM (max): 42,000
• Carburetor: 3-Needle Slide
• Crank: Standard SG
• Engine bore size: 19.5mm
• Exhaust: Rear
• Stroke: 16.5mm
• Displacement: 4.69cc
• Weight: 435gr
Thx all Tommy
Heres the specs
• Horsepower: Not rated
• RPM (max): 42,000
• Carburetor: 3-Needle Slide
• Crank: Standard SG
• Engine bore size: 19.5mm
• Exhaust: Rear
• Stroke: 16.5mm
• Displacement: 4.69cc
• Weight: 435gr
Thx all Tommy
04-10-2006 | 09:49 AM
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From: dungannonnorthern ireland, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
hey my front diffs just went out on me and r now shredded i dont really want to get heavy duty 1s casue they r quite dear so wod this set to please reply so i can make my order asap [link]http://www.jespares.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=179&products_id=841[/link]
04-10-2006 | 10:05 AM
#5779
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From: Mississauga ,
ON, CANADA
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
yes that is the stock set
ORIGINAL: adz06
hey my front diffs just went out on me and r now shredded i dont really want to get heavy duty 1s casue they r quite dear so wod this set to please reply so i can make my order asap [link]http://www.jespares.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=179&products_id=841[/link]
hey my front diffs just went out on me and r now shredded i dont really want to get heavy duty 1s casue they r quite dear so wod this set to please reply so i can make my order asap [link]http://www.jespares.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=179&products_id=841[/link]
04-10-2006 | 11:40 AM
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From: dungannonnorthern ireland, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
gdgd i might as well get them as they lasted me four months not bad lol seeing as ive ran like a galloon every month
04-10-2006 | 02:22 PM
#5781
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From: Mississauga ,
ON, CANADA
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
just shim them a bit anyway tho when you install them
ORIGINAL: adz06
gdgd i might as well get them as they lasted me four months not bad lol seeing as ive ran like a galloon every month
gdgd i might as well get them as they lasted me four months not bad lol seeing as ive ran like a galloon every month
04-10-2006 | 07:37 PM
#5782
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From: Union City,
CA
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
To get to your Differentials!?! You pretty much have to take apart your whole MT2!!!!![8D][X(][>:]
Take your TIME, get a magnet to hold on to your screws in a bowl or something. Or write down your process of dismantling than do it backwards to assemble.
The Best Part of the HOBBY !!!!
In My Opinion!!![X(]
You pretty much have to take apart your whole MT2!!!!![8D][X(][>:]Take your TIME, get a magnet to hold on to your screws in a bowl or something. Or write down your process of dismantling than do it backwards to assemble.
The Best Part of the HOBBY !!!!
In My Opinion!!![X(]
04-10-2006 | 08:12 PM
#5783
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From: College Station,
TX
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
You can't be serious can you? To get the entire rear diff and suspension setup off, it only takes 6 screws. The 2 z569's in the lower pic http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/nmt2/MT2_28.jpg and the 4 z581's in the bottom pic here http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/nmt2/MT2_18.jpg From there, two screws to seperate the diff case from the shock tower, 2 z581's again http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/nmt2/MT2_17.jpg bottom pic, then two more 581's and one z578, top pic, and there is your diff. The front is a little more involved, but just as a hint, you don't have to take off bell crank, steering system or any of that, just a little bit of the suspension setup. Not going to go into that right now because I'm at work so I can't take the time to do that right now. Not to be rude by the way, but don't you have a manual? It may seem like a waste of time, but literally study it. You can learn by seeing how all the components tie into each other and learn how the different systems can be modular. For example, diff assembly, radio box, and like I listed above, the entire rear suspension/drivetrain setup can all usually be removed with less screws than it would take to fill a shot glass. I know most people want to just get out and drive it and not worry about anything, but with things like this, it helps to just be patient and study it sometimes.
04-10-2006 | 10:46 PM
#5784
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From: TokyoTokyo, JAPAN
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
Yeah those diffs go quickly if your really giving it on the corners (although they are not really strong to start with), but I agree with adz06 that you should probably get the H/Duty ones. The amount of standards you will go through outweigh the cost of the H/Duty set. But if you cant as mt2nitronut just said, shim them...but dont OVER shim them as you will blow them again and really give them a good lube, or better yet change the diff lube to 1/4th car engine oil in your diffs to keep them lubed and create less friction...? Just a thought but you can experiment though.
04-10-2006 | 10:50 PM
#5785
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From: TokyoTokyo, JAPAN
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
Ditto...
ORIGINAL: CS MT2
You can't be serious can you? To get the entire rear diff and suspension setup off, it only takes 6 screws. The 2 z569's in the lower pic http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/nmt2/MT2_28.jpg and the 4 z581's in the bottom pic here http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/nmt2/MT2_18.jpg From there, two screws to seperate the diff case from the shock tower, 2 z581's again http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/nmt2/MT2_17.jpg bottom pic, then two more 581's and one z578, top pic, and there is your diff. The front is a little more involved, but just as a hint, you don't have to take off bell crank, steering system or any of that, just a little bit of the suspension setup. Not going to go into that right now because I'm at work so I can't take the time to do that right now. Not to be rude by the way, but don't you have a manual? It may seem like a waste of time, but literally study it. You can learn by seeing how all the components tie into each other and learn how the different systems can be modular. For example, diff assembly, radio box, and like I listed above, the entire rear suspension/drivetrain setup can all usually be removed with less screws than it would take to fill a shot glass. I know most people want to just get out and drive it and not worry about anything, but with things like this, it helps to just be patient and study it sometimes.
You can't be serious can you? To get the entire rear diff and suspension setup off, it only takes 6 screws. The 2 z569's in the lower pic http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/nmt2/MT2_28.jpg and the 4 z581's in the bottom pic here http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/nmt2/MT2_18.jpg From there, two screws to seperate the diff case from the shock tower, 2 z581's again http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/nmt2/MT2_17.jpg bottom pic, then two more 581's and one z578, top pic, and there is your diff. The front is a little more involved, but just as a hint, you don't have to take off bell crank, steering system or any of that, just a little bit of the suspension setup. Not going to go into that right now because I'm at work so I can't take the time to do that right now. Not to be rude by the way, but don't you have a manual? It may seem like a waste of time, but literally study it. You can learn by seeing how all the components tie into each other and learn how the different systems can be modular. For example, diff assembly, radio box, and like I listed above, the entire rear suspension/drivetrain setup can all usually be removed with less screws than it would take to fill a shot glass. I know most people want to just get out and drive it and not worry about anything, but with things like this, it helps to just be patient and study it sometimes.
04-11-2006 | 10:43 AM
#5786
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From: Milwaukee,
WI
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
yeah i got the manual and i studied it like i was taking a quiz the next day. i see how to take it out, just wanted to make sure so i asked on here too. i got the HD diffs already in my totebag, so whenever i stop being lazy i'll put those in. i might check them out today after i run my truck through this golf course up the street from my house. always wanted to take it through the golf course, it's a course that rarely gets used, so no flying golf balls to worry about. i got te 2 speed tranny for it yesterday, but didnt install it yet because i knew i was gonna drive off road today, it's 65 degrees here finally!! i ran it yesterday, but i lost two engine mount screws in the bottom of the truck. painted my hummer body last night, and i also have my ford 250 body which i painted last thursday. two new bodies. gotta keep it looking good since it's hot outside now. the stock body is almost dead now. i'd say one more hard hit on the back,or something grabs that big spoiler i put on there, and the rear will be gone. well it's almost time for my 11 o clock class.
04-11-2006 | 11:53 AM
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From: Melbourne, Aus
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
hey guys
can someone give me a link or model for the 2speed trans for the rs4 mt2 not the new 18ss just the old mt2 the yellow thing
thanks
regards
can someone give me a link or model for the 2speed trans for the rs4 mt2 not the new 18ss just the old mt2 the yellow thing
thanks
regards
04-12-2006 | 08:29 AM
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From: Manchester, NH
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
BIG PROBLEMS!!!!
Well most of you guys know me as the newbie who's had his car for 2 weeks and can't get it to run. I tried adjusting everything possible, I chacked crankshaft, slipper clutch, flywheel, servos, air leaks, everything possible. I'd get it to idle but it would stall when giving too much throttle. And I know I always ran it on the rich side so I wouldn't do damage. Anyways yesterday I was finally determined to get it running. I went to the hobbby shop early and grabbed so new gas lines and a fuel filter. For a little side project through out the daywhen my bash buddy works on his Jato. So we try to get my MT2 started at 10am hopng to be drinking beers and bashing by noon. I wanted to make sure mine was getting fuel so I flooded it out. cleaned it up and put a new plug in. I tried starting it but it seemed flooded again. I held a rag over head when I was unflooding engine and gave it a couple bursts with roto start, I noticed some metal flakes come out in rag. I think it was the con rod, it was brass with chrome looking coating. My question is what should I do a con rod is $16, but if I screwed up the sleeve and piston then it would cost about $45 for all that when I can get a new engine for $65. What are the cxhances that its just the con rod? The car is new infact I've not even driven it 20 ft. Also how do you think this happened. I never ran it lean and I've only idled it through 7 tanks of gas. Anyways any advice on what I should do. I was also thinking about puting the .18 engine in maybe now would be a good time.
Well most of you guys know me as the newbie who's had his car for 2 weeks and can't get it to run. I tried adjusting everything possible, I chacked crankshaft, slipper clutch, flywheel, servos, air leaks, everything possible. I'd get it to idle but it would stall when giving too much throttle. And I know I always ran it on the rich side so I wouldn't do damage. Anyways yesterday I was finally determined to get it running. I went to the hobbby shop early and grabbed so new gas lines and a fuel filter. For a little side project through out the daywhen my bash buddy works on his Jato. So we try to get my MT2 started at 10am hopng to be drinking beers and bashing by noon. I wanted to make sure mine was getting fuel so I flooded it out. cleaned it up and put a new plug in. I tried starting it but it seemed flooded again. I held a rag over head when I was unflooding engine and gave it a couple bursts with roto start, I noticed some metal flakes come out in rag. I think it was the con rod, it was brass with chrome looking coating. My question is what should I do a con rod is $16, but if I screwed up the sleeve and piston then it would cost about $45 for all that when I can get a new engine for $65. What are the cxhances that its just the con rod? The car is new infact I've not even driven it 20 ft. Also how do you think this happened. I never ran it lean and I've only idled it through 7 tanks of gas. Anyways any advice on what I should do. I was also thinking about puting the .18 engine in maybe now would be a good time.
04-12-2006 | 08:53 AM
#5790
Senior Member
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
disassemble the engine and take a look at it and flush it out there may have been some metal shavings left over from its machining and that is what may be your prob. the shavings could be affecting fuel flow it could gum up the plug to any thing else. use either brake cleaner or dentured alcohol for the flush.
04-12-2006 | 03:31 PM
#5791
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From: Foresthill,
CA
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
Ok I have been running Savage's for a quite a while now and I've decided that I am going to order me up an MT2 18SS.
Anyway I was curious what the necessary hopups are that I should get?
So far I have the following (Feel free to reccommend a better poroduct for any of the following):
Radio:
Hitec Agressor SRX (w/ HS-645MG Servo for steering):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXGZW2**&P=7
Batteries:
Ofna 1400mah Hump Pack:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKKF2&P=7
Team Orion 2300mah AA's:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGRP0&P=7
Servos:
HS-645MG (for Steering - included with radio):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXGZW2**&P=7
HS-311 (for Throttle):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDEL5&P=ML
Air Filter:
HPI High Performance 10mm:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXCCE1
Exhaust Pipe:
Tsais Silver Bullet:
http://rchub.com/Merchant2/merchant...._Code=10onroad
So far that's all I have...
Is the stock cooling head good or should I stick on a Nova head?
Should I get some Aluminum Clutch Shoes?
Feel free to recommend more hopups or change any that are listed...
I want nothing but good stuff =)
Thanks...
Anyway I was curious what the necessary hopups are that I should get?
So far I have the following (Feel free to reccommend a better poroduct for any of the following):
Radio:
Hitec Agressor SRX (w/ HS-645MG Servo for steering):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXGZW2**&P=7
Batteries:
Ofna 1400mah Hump Pack:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKKF2&P=7
Team Orion 2300mah AA's:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGRP0&P=7
Servos:
HS-645MG (for Steering - included with radio):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXGZW2**&P=7
HS-311 (for Throttle):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDEL5&P=ML
Air Filter:
HPI High Performance 10mm:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXCCE1
Exhaust Pipe:
Tsais Silver Bullet:
http://rchub.com/Merchant2/merchant...._Code=10onroad
So far that's all I have...
Is the stock cooling head good or should I stick on a Nova head?
Should I get some Aluminum Clutch Shoes?
Feel free to recommend more hopups or change any that are listed...
I want nothing but good stuff =)
Thanks...
04-12-2006 | 06:27 PM
#5792
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From: paducah, KY
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
I have a question.. sorry to ***** on you'lls discussion.. But i am looking to get a barely used MT1 for $125 is this a good deal??? It has a broken starter cord... what's the best fix. also.. does anyone know if the MT2 alum. fits the MT1 (nuckles and such) because i would want to do some upgrading to anything i get... just like 99.999% of people that get RC cars... btw this will be my first nitro car...
thankS
BM
thankS
BM
04-12-2006 | 08:09 PM
#5793
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From: New York City,
NY
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
ORIGINAL: Rep99099
Ok I have been running Savage's for a quite a while now and I've decided that I am going to order me up an MT2 18SS.
Anyway I was curious what the necessary hopups are that I should get?
So far I have the following (Feel free to reccommend a better poroduct for any of the following):
Radio:
Hitec Agressor SRX (w/ HS-645MG Servo for steering):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXGZW2**&P=7
Batteries:
Ofna 1400mah Hump Pack:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKKF2&P=7
Team Orion 2300mah AA's:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGRP0&P=7
Servos:
HS-645MG (for Steering - included with radio):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXGZW2**&P=7
HS-311 (for Throttle):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDEL5&P=ML
Air Filter:
HPI High Performance 10mm:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXCCE1
Exhaust Pipe:
Tsais Silver Bullet:
http://rchub.com/Merchant2/merchant...._Code=10onroad
So far that's all I have...
Is the stock cooling head good or should I stick on a Nova head?
Should I get some Aluminum Clutch Shoes?
Feel free to recommend more hopups or change any that are listed...
I want nothing but good stuff =)
Thanks...
Ok I have been running Savage's for a quite a while now and I've decided that I am going to order me up an MT2 18SS.
Anyway I was curious what the necessary hopups are that I should get?
So far I have the following (Feel free to reccommend a better poroduct for any of the following):
Radio:
Hitec Agressor SRX (w/ HS-645MG Servo for steering):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXGZW2**&P=7
Batteries:
Ofna 1400mah Hump Pack:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKKF2&P=7
Team Orion 2300mah AA's:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGRP0&P=7
Servos:
HS-645MG (for Steering - included with radio):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXGZW2**&P=7
HS-311 (for Throttle):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDEL5&P=ML
Air Filter:
HPI High Performance 10mm:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXCCE1
Exhaust Pipe:
Tsais Silver Bullet:
http://rchub.com/Merchant2/merchant...._Code=10onroad
So far that's all I have...
Is the stock cooling head good or should I stick on a Nova head?
Should I get some Aluminum Clutch Shoes?
Feel free to recommend more hopups or change any that are listed...
I want nothing but good stuff =)
Thanks...
I highly suggest some aluminum c-hubs/knuckles off of ebay... The stock head is fine...
04-12-2006 | 08:16 PM
#5794
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From: New York City,
NY
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
ORIGINAL: jpep
BIG PROBLEMS!!!!
Well most of you guys know me as the newbie who's had his car for 2 weeks and can't get it to run. I tried adjusting everything possible, I chacked crankshaft, slipper clutch, flywheel, servos, air leaks, everything possible. I'd get it to idle but it would stall when giving too much throttle. And I know I always ran it on the rich side so I wouldn't do damage. Anyways yesterday I was finally determined to get it running. I went to the hobbby shop early and grabbed so new gas lines and a fuel filter. For a little side project through out the daywhen my bash buddy works on his Jato. So we try to get my MT2 started at 10am hopng to be drinking beers and bashing by noon. I wanted to make sure mine was getting fuel so I flooded it out. cleaned it up and put a new plug in. I tried starting it but it seemed flooded again. I held a rag over head when I was unflooding engine and gave it a couple bursts with roto start, I noticed some metal flakes come out in rag. I think it was the con rod, it was brass with chrome looking coating. My question is what should I do a con rod is $16, but if I screwed up the sleeve and piston then it would cost about $45 for all that when I can get a new engine for $65. What are the cxhances that its just the con rod? The car is new infact I've not even driven it 20 ft. Also how do you think this happened. I never ran it lean and I've only idled it through 7 tanks of gas. Anyways any advice on what I should do. I was also thinking about puting the .18 engine in maybe now would be a good time.
BIG PROBLEMS!!!!
Well most of you guys know me as the newbie who's had his car for 2 weeks and can't get it to run. I tried adjusting everything possible, I chacked crankshaft, slipper clutch, flywheel, servos, air leaks, everything possible. I'd get it to idle but it would stall when giving too much throttle. And I know I always ran it on the rich side so I wouldn't do damage. Anyways yesterday I was finally determined to get it running. I went to the hobbby shop early and grabbed so new gas lines and a fuel filter. For a little side project through out the daywhen my bash buddy works on his Jato. So we try to get my MT2 started at 10am hopng to be drinking beers and bashing by noon. I wanted to make sure mine was getting fuel so I flooded it out. cleaned it up and put a new plug in. I tried starting it but it seemed flooded again. I held a rag over head when I was unflooding engine and gave it a couple bursts with roto start, I noticed some metal flakes come out in rag. I think it was the con rod, it was brass with chrome looking coating. My question is what should I do a con rod is $16, but if I screwed up the sleeve and piston then it would cost about $45 for all that when I can get a new engine for $65. What are the cxhances that its just the con rod? The car is new infact I've not even driven it 20 ft. Also how do you think this happened. I never ran it lean and I've only idled it through 7 tanks of gas. Anyways any advice on what I should do. I was also thinking about puting the .18 engine in maybe now would be a good time.
04-13-2006 | 02:06 PM
#5796
Senior Member
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
well i will not be able to race much this year now that work has gone down the tubes, but i will be bashing my mt and other vehicles but one never knows how well things will go and i may be able to get out to the races !!
04-13-2006 | 02:55 PM
#5797
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From: , PUERTO RICO (USA)
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
i was planning on buying a used original mt on e bay or in the buy/sell section of this site, but i was wondering what are the diferences between the original nitro mt and the new nitro mt2, and if i get an old mt , can i upgrade it to the new mt 2 with minor $$??
thanks for your help
thanks for your help
04-13-2006 | 05:01 PM
#5798
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From: dungannonnorthern ireland, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
hey my exhaust seems to be spitting out fuel a lot and dripping it for ages after i dont no y ive tryed leaning it out and richening it nothing worked
04-13-2006 | 05:11 PM
#5799
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From: Mississauga ,
ON, CANADA
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
lower needle clockwise
ORIGINAL: adz06
hey my exhaust seems to be spitting out fuel a lot and dripping it for ages after i dont no y ive tryed leaning it out and richening it nothing worked
hey my exhaust seems to be spitting out fuel a lot and dripping it for ages after i dont no y ive tryed leaning it out and richening it nothing worked
04-13-2006 | 05:15 PM
#5800
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From: dungannonnorthern ireland, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
ok thankz ill give that a go 2moz morning i think the neighbors wat b ****ed if i started it up nw n drove it bout
