Yeah i did and_des...hey thanks alot for the info. I have heard of it B4 but did'nt have a link...and, well just too lazy to look it but I have never had one myself and I never take a pinch of salt with what I read. But its a nice motor though.

I ended up getting the .26 5 port Ofna engine...they are great engines with some serious punch adn great longevity. I was really happy with my .21 as its holds a tune really well, just i dont really like their slide carbs so I will replace that one with another novarossi version.

SORRY FOR LENGTH OF POST (i wrote this in after)

thanks and des, I'm almost embarassed to say I never thought of that, but with all my stupid questions I guess you guys already figured out I wasn't a pro, If I fooled anyone to think that then my next questions will surely help you kow:

First since I think this mught be most important, Are you supose to grease or lube or do anything with any bearings. Off the top of my head I have the (might not bw proper names) bearing coming off motor behind flywheel, might be a front bearing or something, the 4 for the spur and center dogbones, then 8 on the dogbones for wheels, the one way bearing and the needle bearing. I'm upgrading the needle bearing, do I need to replace or upgrade the others, I'm just bashing the truck, but I'm starting some friendly races which could lead to more racing so I'd like to get it done and done right. basically I don't know much about bearing except the mechanics of them.

What about clutchbell, I know the larger the more teeth on the spur the more torque, and I don't know if I'm still feeling last nights whiskey but is it the opposite for clutch, I think my head is too cloudy to figure it out.

46u are you sure the cheaper ones will work, I'm all about saving money if possible but I don't mind spend $10 extra if there worth it for what ever reason. Does your clutchbell have any play or is it tight? Basically I want to make sure I order all parts I need to get this thing set up good once and for all and since I don't have the parts already I don't know the measurements will the 4mm thickness work OK or will I have to add extra washers? For somereason I thought I remember the clucth opening was 5mm, but it's possible I might have been looking at the wrong thing. 7-8 tall jim and gingerales at 2 am and ordering parts for your rc car don't mix too well.

sim- No and yes on the build. I original got a MT2 rtr it was first rc in 15 years from the old hornets, tycos, and king cab. Anyways I blew stock motor somehow while breaking in, I think I flooded it too many times and got a hydro lock. I bought the
os .18 but still had no idea how to run them right, That's when someone told me when you start truck you kept the glow plug igniter on plug. I always took it off immediately or I thought I'd burn the thing out. Anyways for the first half of tank I kept igniter on it and after that it ran fine. Also before I even bought truck I was on this site finding out parts that break and buying them on ebay, I bought a few alloy parts and tons of spares. Then I kept stripping spurs so I started taking the whole thing apart and figuring how everything works. I used to run a chemical plant so I know a lot about mechanical issues. Anyways I figure I'm close to be done with car. I have no desire to add any more metal. the only things I need are a lighter flywheel, racing clutch, maybe metal spur. and then install all the parts to upgrade to the ss version I have left. I haven't installed the heavy duty drive shaft stuff yet as my stock are fine. plus I have two sets of cheap stock rtr ones and I don't have the heavy duty diffs. I have the stock ones and two spares. anyways time to rap this up so someone can help me out sorry for length, but unfortunately atleast I know one guy will be sitting in front of his TV watching a 3 hour race. I will be too (nascar though) actually I'm going to record it on tive and start watching it later.

Yes you can get perfect hex screws for the engine, i have some in mine now and are great because they are easier and quicker to get out.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...SCREWS&S3=&S4=

Part: LXBLY7

But there are many other ones as well just dont get titanium for this application though, stick with the steel ones.

[quote]ORIGINAL: MastaDizasta

Oh ok, Also is their an engine that could push this car past 60mph?

There no stupid question to begin with.
When i take the truck apart i soak all my bearings in brake cleaner and dry them with compress air after i put some really light oil i buy from my bearing place ,i check each one of them making sure theres not grinding noise if so i replace the defective ones, the bearing on the engine don't need any special care the get lubricated when you run your engine. I always buy the cheap one that good enough for me. For the one way just clean it with break cleaner and put it back i don't oil this one.

smaller CB more torque
bigger CB more top end
smaller spur more top end
bigger spur more torque
(can someone correct me if i'm wrong)

[quote]ORIGINAL: simienastro

Yes you can get perfect hex screws for the engine, i have some in mine now and are great because they are easier and quicker to get out.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...SCREWS&S3=&S4=

Part: LXBLY7

But there are many other ones as well just dont get titanium for this application though, stick with the steel ones.


When I think of hex I think of out side hex like you put a box end wrench or a socket on. I call the others socket head like the listing says or allen . Sorry my mistake!

If you use socket head make sure you use the button head! The flat head are for counter sunk holes and the others I would think stick down to far. The button head are the closes to the original.

I all ways shim my clutch bell as far as end play. But run what ever you are comfortable with.

So which hex button head screws would fit since the current engine screws are M3x8mm.

[quote]ORIGINAL: simienastro

Yes you can get perfect hex screws for the engine, i have some in mine now and are great because they are easier and quicker to get out.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...SCREWS&S3=&S4=

Part: LXBLY7

But there are many other ones as well just dont get titanium for this application though, stick with the steel ones.

Well if the ones you where using are 3x8mm I would think you need 3x8mm.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFM9&P=7

When looking on Towers Hobbies web site try the search it works real well.

wow I'm ticked off 2 days of working on car and I ran it one tank and the pilot shaft spun off again. The good news is I don't haver to get another truck for myself so my girl can drive it. This is the 3rd time she has gone to use it with me and we've broke down after 15mins and I then have to work on it for 2 hours. She said she never wants to touch a rc again. Not to mention that I had to change a spur again from the other day when my pilot shaft came off and clutchbell jammed into spur I think it warped my spur. SO I had to change it earlier after I thought it was allset. I got up at 9am my car was ready to go minus reciever and gas tank. I played around with the mesh and spur from 10 to 2. I thought thats when I found the warped spur and had to change it after spending hours trying to line it up. Got my truck finally road worthy at 4:30 and by 5:45 it's all back in pieces in my hobby room that I'm now thinking turning into a knitting room or maybe I could throw all my rc crap away and do a nice 10000 pice jig saw puzzle on one of my tables
Well time to go put that mother f***king little piece of s#!t broke down jalopy back together

A bit of tread lock should take care of that.

Thanks so much!!

You are more then welcome.

Thread lock, more like super glue. Of course I put TL on it. Well not of course the first time I poulled my motor apart 2 months ago I didn't use thread lock anywhere so it's not out of the realm of possiblities, but belive after I lost my exhaust and my back plate when I had roto start I learned the importance but since then the back plate fell off of pull start that had thread lock and now the pilot shaft twice with plenty 'o' thread lock. There's got to be something bettter than hpi thread lock also I'm all out of grease I won't be buying anymore of those $2 tubes of crappy HPI TL or grease any recomendations. Also I fixed my clutchbell for the most part wit an extra washer before needle bearing thanks guys for making me brainstorm. Do any of you guys run washers under chasis wher you mount body if so what size. My chasis is starting to where a circle where I've been mounting it so many times. Now everytime I tighten down nolts the motor moves into the same place. Unfortunately the same place is not lined up good so the clutch and spur are at a slight angle. Well I'm done for the night. I figured it out in 3 days working on car I spent over 10 hours working on it and only drobe it for 20mins. Now it's dissembled and needs some more work.oh well tomorrow is a new day.

can anyone help me plz. if the diffs are shimmed to tight can that cause them too snap the teeth off ? or if they are too loose could that also cause them to snap off?

Personally myself, I set my diffs as tight as I can get them and do not have mechanical failures, I have found that loose will make the teeth snap off more frequently.

ok thank you for your comment and what does everyone else think?

not being nasty and ungratefull TEAM but i am just trying to get comments from a few people

thanks again

Do as TEAM-JCJ say and you sould be good

oh and im running the OZ18cv-rx

my bro-inlaw is running th eexact same as me and he has had no problems with teh teeth snapping (he has had them slip tho) and he is using 7 shimms in front and rear now

Good news evryone. I'm going to be getting the mt2 18ss kit at the end of the week. It will be my first nitro and I am looking forward to putting it together. Is there anything else that I should get for it besides after run oil, air filter oil, and a good radio?

-Thanks

Hey no probs...its just a different language so nothing apologise about.

Yeah the allen thing we call the tool itself an allen wrench but the bolts, screws nuts...etc, we call hex, I guess would be short for hexagon perhaps. But there is awhole different system there in america...? Are you all metric and celcius...?



[quote]ORIGINAL: 46u

A glow plug igniter, batteries and fuel.

Ooops my mistake then...?

Sorry I thought he was asking about the bolts for the engine mount which are the flat top hex bolts (flat head socket screws) you would use to go under the chassis and plug into the underside of the engine mounts...not the engine botls that strap the engine to the mounts themselves.

[quote]ORIGINAL: simienastro

Hey no probs...its just a different language so nothing apologise about.

Yeah the allen thing we call the tool itself an allen wrench but the bolts, screws nuts...etc, we call hex, I guess would be short for hexagon perhaps. But there is awhole different system there in america...? Are you all metric and celcius...?



[quote]


As a rule we are standard as far as temperature and measurements. A lot of things like cars and even Harley’s are using both standard and metric threads. I hate that I wish it were one or the other. I get tired of going and getting a 7/16 socket to find out it is 10mm and so on.