Hey Sim2 ,hows things, you talking to me ,trucks running sweet stock with new pipe and cant wait till my cvd come in this week maybe next week,nope no races dont think they allow the mt2,and atill havent got a beast yet,but in time,keep ripping the nitro gents

Would not hurt to seal it to make sure. They still have a 2 speed that can be made to work but the problem with the 2 speed is you have to take the slipper out and take more of a chance of damaging the drive train more so for off road use or jumping. So you are running mainly on road?
Keep us posted.

fishy & rap thanks for the info guys i,ll figure it out sooner or later,

hey 46u
yea. mosty on road. but i`ll put on the stock tires and wheels on
when i go off road.
hey mt2 nut.
i ran the first 4 tanks with the wheels off the ground.
next 2 tanks running easy. no wide open.
next 2 tanks i started short wide open. but mosty half gas.
thats were i`m at now.
i have a question.
i like to keep spare parts for my cars.
what parts do you think are good to keep in stock.
i was thinking spare diff gears, a arms, anything else??
i also picked up that racing clutch. next time i have to pull the engine
i`ll put that in. i don`t like the way the stock clutch grabs.

OK, i got a little prob. with my mt2. to start with my 3yr old got a hold of it when i was not home. i found out that evening. avery thing looked ok. nothing broke, but the air filter was gone. note it was a factory one but it was gone. ez fix right? i went to get a after market to put on. the one i got was sim. to a durastrax basic filter except it has a blue plactic cover to go over the filter as well. it looked like it would do the job. got home put it on and started it up. i run fine on my starting prop table thing. i put it on the ground and it went about 50 ft and died. so i started it again. same thing. is the after market air filter screwing it up. if tried it all ways. with the cover on it with out . with the motor saver black filter that goes over the basic one. i just dont under stand. is there a prefured aftermarket air filter that works real good with mt2? iv tried to adjust the carb thinking it geeting to much air and iv gone the other rought adjusting the carb for not enuf air. its all the same out come. i works for 5 min or so than dies. i need help or this thing might become a paper weight. just to let you know its still preaty new. i'v only ran about 1/2 gal of fule thru it.

Is the new air filter over oiled? I have seen many filters that come with to much oil. Take the filter of and warp in a paper towel and squeeze. If that does not work try setting your carburetor back to factory settings and try to retune. Make sure you start with HSN and get it see properly set before going to the LSN. When was the last time you drove it before all this happen?

hey i just ordered my mt2! any hop up suggestions? like hubs, arms, maby a good tuned pipe?

RTR or .18ss kit?

rtr

Hi everyone, new here.

I joined to get some help with my MT2 18SS. As you know it is a kit, built it and followed the directions closely. Well it has been a rather big hassle trying to get to work right. I'm new to nitro and I think I may have gone a bit over my head with the one I bought. I bought this as a reward for myself for working over the summer. Have yet to actually drive it and getting rather frustrated with it. Probably should have gotten the MT2 RTR or the Traxxas Nitro Rustler 2.5 instead. But anyway, here are my questions.

1. It spits fuel out the exhaust like crazy. Its literally a spray. I have tried fiddling with the high speed needle but to no avail. How do I fix this? I have run five tanks through it for static break in.

2. When its started the wheels just spin rather quickly. I have tried adjusting the slipper clutch but to no avail. The gear right off the engine that drives the large gear spins during cranking and continues to spin just idling and during low to medium throttle (have yet to go full throttle). Sometimes the wheels slow down and actually stop during idle but spin right back up to speed after a while. Could the clutch shoes be out of adjustment?

Thanks for your help!

try this air filter it is pretty good http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCCE1&P=7

try to turn lower speed needle clockwise to lean out slightly quarter turn at a time until oil stops spitting out as much,if still not broken in better to run it rich until after breakin

First off the engine comes set very rich for break in and will spit out more fuel then normally till you get to the point in break in where you start leaning it out. Being these engines are 2 cycles you will all ways have some oil coming out the pipe or the engine would not get enough lubrication.

The slipper clutch does not have anything to do with the problem of the wheels turning. The slipper clutch is just to protect the drive train while running. Sounds like to me you do not have your clutch put together properly or have the idle to high maybe radio trim is off. With out the engine running can you turn the clutch bell with out the engine turning?

Not to hurt any ones feelings but the SS kit is much better then the RTR. The SS kit has all the heavy-duty drive train, bigger engine and more. On the RTR it is only a matter of time before the ring and pinion gears strip in both the front and rear differentials. So any one with a RTR needs to get 2 sets of the heavy-duty gears, which are about $65 that come with the 18SS. All so on either I recommend a good hump pack for the receiver, which are much better then AA batteries.

Neither the RTR nor the SS kit comes whit a very good tuned pipe so this is a good thing to change when you can. All so I recommend getting all steering hubs (knuc

Here is an article that is good for new people to nitro to read. Not trying to step on toes but do not adjust the LSN too much until break in is over and you have the HSN set.
http://www.*********.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm

what are good steering and throttle sevos?

ive heard this is good for steering... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...9&I=LXUZ89&P=K

For steering you want some thing with at least 90 to 100oz of torque. If you are racing you want something that is pretty fast. If you look at specifications on servos most have two ratings one for 4.8 volts and one for 6 volts. The 4.8-volt is if you are running the poor AA batteries and the 6-volt is if you are running a good receiver pack this is why I recommended buying a good hump pack.

Now when it comes to servos all so on the steering you want something with metal gears and ball bearings. The thing with recommending servos has to do with how much money you want to spend, as the best ones are expensive.

Here are the receiver packs I run but keep in mind you will all so need a charger.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...7&I=LXMGW5&P=K

All so Max Amps has cheap receiver packs and chargers. I will try to find that site and list it.

Yes that is a decent servo and will work just fine. It is not as good as a digital coreless but is a decent one and a lot cheaper then a coreless digital.

Here is Max Amps web site. You should be able to find a charger and receiver hump pack from them for around $20 to $25.
http://www.maxamps.com/index.html?lmd=38931.363981

Need some help. I just bought a powerline steering assembly for my 18ss and I went to install and the cross bar that meets up to the steering arms hits the front diff and binds the steering, obviously I have not ran it in this condition. I bought this because my plastic stock one was kind of binding as I screwed in the srews to the top plate on the right side. Can someone please help, maybe i am installing wrong, thanks. also new to the forum look forward to using it.

Do you have any pictures? I am not big on Powerline as all there stuff is made from cast and not billet not near as strong. Does it use bearings or bushings? I run bearings in my stock plastic steering bell. The bearings took out a lot of play.

any part numbers on those bearing or a link would be great and if anyone knows the bearing link for the clutch bell and how many and yes it would be for the stock t 15 i would need bearing size for ,much appreciated

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXVZ55]tower[/link]
This is the link to the pic. It has plastic bushings. I also ordered the gpm steering bellcrank, it comes with bearings, although I have not recieved it yet probably 2 weeks before I get the gpm. Maybe gpm will work better, its fustrating because I think I have it right but it still hits the front diff. thanks for your help

I hate to say it but every powerline product I ever bought I had problems with.

I am trying to find this information. Many take me a while.