no exhaust yet. dirt bonez tyres should be here friday. a quick question on glueing. how do i stop them from going lumpy around the edges and get a nice smooth edge with no lumps around the tyre

Thanks

Should have gotten the Pro Line Bow Ties as they last MUCH longer then the HPI Dirt Bonz! Make sure you stay off the pavement.

Are the dirt bonez the tires that come on the 18ss? If so, you better never run those things on pavement. They will get chewed up REAL fast.

as for glueing. I rough up the bead of the tire with a dremel. I just put the tire on the rim and push the lip of the tire to the inner most part of the rim. That way you can put a bead of glue all the way around the rim. then just pull the tire bead back onto the rim lip that has glue and make sure it seats in nicely. This usually gives you enough time to get the tire situated before the glue dried.

ok thanks guys, and im not botherd about the tires wearing down, i got them in a sale from jespares 10% off all tires untill friday ill keep off the pavement wink wink lol

Yes they are the ones that come with the 18ss.

A distant friend of mine doesn't have an rcu account but was wondering if there are any off road tracks around New York City

Did you check in the RC Regional Racer and Basher thread? All so check here.
http://rcvehicles.about.com/gi/dynam...track_srch.asp

Here are the tires I run and last much longer then the HPI Dirt Bonz.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDX79&P=0

ORIGINAL: 46u
I was born in Pittsburgh PA one 1214 Macon, Ave and in 1968 moved to Macon, Georgia.
i was born in ambler pa

is it comin for the clutch bell to brake in two well it happend to me

Do you have the RTR with the stock CB? If so yes I have heard of this happening many times and I recommend to up grade to the race CB with the much better bearing set up.

I'm not to keen on my break. Can you get alu disk break?. I Think its my pads that need tightening

hey im thinking of painting my own body.... any suggestions for colors that gowell with red??

red and.....ORANGE lol! personaly i think red and lime green would look cool. Talking of painting my shell is coming tommorow hopefully. when its done i shall post some pictures

yea might be interesting... im gonna do like stripes straigh down the middle like dodge vipers

oh cool, copy 46u hehe

If you are running the stock RTR you need to change to one of these. I have the first one and it works great but just ordered the seconded one to see how it does. Mine is not ware out but where it goes on the cup is getting quite waddled out. You can all so get a higher torque servo.
This is the one that came with mine works great
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...7&I=LXM738&P=K

I am going to try this one as it is so much cheaper.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFYP8&P=ML

Well I've just finished taking the roto-start off my MT2 and replacing it with a pull-starter. A bit more work than I expected as I had to remove the rear diff and wheels to get access to unscrew the roto-start, but I suppose it's a good thing as I familiarise myself with the car.

Hopefully having a pull-start will mean less hassle in future, as carrying that heavy roto-starter around was a real pain.

Why didn’t you just take the 4 screws out holding the engine and pull the whole engine off?

I'm running the second disc you have posted. Works great for me! I have never used the first one. I got my truck used and the disc was shot so I bought the one you linked. Took a little while to wear in but it is great now.

Because I'm a bit afraid to mess about with the engine. Maybe because I'm a newbie to all this I'm being a bit too careful, but at least I've familiarised myself with the back end of the car now, which will be handy if I need replacements or if I crash the car in the future.

woulda been WAY easier that way.

you're gonna have to do it some time

Just take not as to how it came apart, remember to use loctite on any screw that goes into metal and read up on adjusting gear mesh. It is a little over whelming at a first glance but it is knowledge that needs to be known when owning a nitro vehicle.

On the RTR there is not a whole lot of gear mesh you have to worry about as the engine has the mounts make on it and there is very little if any adjustment. The only engine I ever had set up that way was on my Rush and it was so many years ago I forget if there is even any adjustment to the mesh.

oh does the RTR just use the 4 fixed motor mount locations? The motor mounts that are builing to the motor's case? I was thinking it used the cheap aluminum motor mounts that use the slot in the chassis.